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Books and Courses 2

Thu, 23 Apr 2026 08:03:42 GMT

THE SECOND SET OF BOOKS AND COURSES THAT HAVE HELPED ME ON MY JOURNEY

Continuing where I left off in the last post in this blog series, Books and Course 1 , here are more books that have helped me along my healing journey. Hopefully, it will prove helpful to anyone else who is in need of some physical, emotional and/or spiritual healing.

As before, I will continue to add to this list gradually, and new entries will appear at the bottom of the post, so scroll down if you're returning to this post and go directly to where you left off. You can also see a list of all the books that will eventually be mentioned in these blog posts by clicking on the button below.

You Can Heal Your Life

by Louise L Hay

This is another one of those really significant books that was a game changer for me. It was whilst working through this book, that I held up a mirror to myself, metaphorically speaking, in a way I'd never done before and realised there were things I needed to change if I wanted to be healthier and happier, and to improve my relationships with others.

Louise Hay wrote this book in the eighties (there are newer editions than the one pictured here). As a result of its success, she was able to create and build the Hay House publishers, which still exists today. It is one of the largest publishing houses and is a leader in the genre of self-help, health and wellness.

In the opening section she states her philosophy and what she believes. There's a long list and she doesn't explain why she believes these things, so in a way it made me take what she said with a pinch of salt at first. Some of her beliefs seemed to be a bit weird or unbelievable at the time of reading because of what I believed myself. Though now I've read more books and have greater understanding, her views make more sense to me now. Even if some things don't sit well with you, I'd still suggest pushing through as it's a great book. Here are just a few of them:

You Can Heal Your Life by Louise L Hay

"Every thought we think is creating our future."

"The bottom line for everyone is, 'I'm not good enough.'

It's only a thought, and a thought can be changed."

"Life is really very simple. What we give out, we get back."

Interestingly, it's only later towards the end of the book that she added her story, which helped me to realise how the book came to be written and what experience she had that led to her realisations. I guess she wanted to put her message across first and not make it all about her. However, for me, I think people's stories matter and it was learning about hers that made everything more relatable and believable.

During her many years of counselling she discovered commonalities in the patterns of emotional issues and physical symptoms. Her first book, You Can Heal Your Body , is actually incorporated into this second book. It lists a myriad of ailments and physical issues and the possible emotional connections and offers powerful affirmations that will help turn things around. I found it very illuminating and a great starting point to consider where to direct my focus and attention, in terms of physical healing, and to see what, if anything, resonated with me.

She essentially believes that everything comes back to either

a lack of self-love or self-worth.

This is such a powerful book in helping us undersatnd ourselves better. Whilst it made me feel uncomfortable at times, realising there were things I could do better, I'm so grateful for how she's shining a light on the connection between mind and body and how our health is in our own hands.

Why Mindfulness Is Better Than Chocolate

by David Michie

This is a lovely, well-written and oftentimes humerous book, offering an insight into the benefits of mindfulness, with some simple easy to follow exercises too.

I used to be one of those people who believed meditating was about sitting cross-legged on the floor and doing nothing. I didn't understand the benefits of being still and simply breathing. To be honest, it didn't seem that appealing to me in the past, since I'm someone who has always been busy, on the go, with an active mind. Now I realise, that's exactly why mindfulness and meditation is beneficial and I'll be the first to admit that I needed to slow down and learn how to do that.

This book helped me see the benefits of mindfulness practice, explaining how it can help lower blood pressure, heart rate, reduce stress and even help to manage pain, plus so much more.

It's a great starting point if you're looking to bring a bit more calm into your life and improve your emotional well-being. As he says, "We are our happiest when our mind is not wandering." I certainly agree with this quote. Not only do I look forward to doing regular meditation and mindfulness practice now, but I've learned to be much more present in each moment, observing my thoughts and not always reacting to them. Plus, I've learned how every thought is impermanent - just passing through. When we understand this, "the more it erodes our sense of attachment."

Why Mindfulness Is Better Than Chocolate

by David Michie

This is a lovely, well-written and oftentimes humerous book, offering an insight into the benefits of mindfulness, with some simple easy to follow exercises too.

This book helped me see the benefits of mindfulness practice, explaining how it can help lower blood pressure, heart rate, reduce stress and even help to manage pain, plus so much more.

Not only do I look forward to doing regular meditation and mindfulness practice now, but I've learned to be much more present in each moment, observing my thoughts and not always reacting to them. Plus, I've learned how every thought is impermanent - just passing through. When we understand this, "the more it erodes our sense of attachment."

"Mindfulness is paying attention to the present moment deliberately and non-judgementally."

"There's no causal relationship between external reality and our emotions. Instead, it's the way we interpret real-life events, people and things that makes us happy or unhappy."

Into The Forest

by Dr Qing Li

As someone who loves nature, this book was a natural follow-on from the previous one on mindfulness. I already knew there were benefits to being out in nature, but I was fascinated to learn more about the science behind it and the research that supports what most of us instinctively already know.

This book provided loads of lovely insights and interesting facts, plus there are lots of photos of nature to accompany all the text, which in itself was very relaxing and proving a point! Apparently, even pictures of trees can help calm, soothe and restore us, when we're not able to see the real thing. One research study discovered that patients recovered from surgery more quickly when they had a window in their room or a picture of nature/trees on the wall than those who had neither.

He goes into more detail about how a wealth of data now proves that shinrin-yoku (forest bathing) can: reduce blood pressure, lower stress, improve cardiovascular and metabolic health, lower blood sugar levels, improve concentration and memory, lift depression, boost the immune system, improve pain thresholds and so much more. He explains why it is good to engage all your senses, giving tips on not only being out in nature, but bringing nature to you if you don't have access to green spaces.

Into The Forest

by Dr Qing Li

"The key to preserving our forest, where it is, is to maintain our connection with it, and one of the best ways to do that is to remind people that our health and the health ofour communities depends on it. When we feel connected to nature, we want to look after it. And this in turn is good for our health. We will benefit not just from the clean air and water forests rpovide, the carbon they store, the species they maintain, but also from the peace and quiet they offer, their beauty and vital spirit, and the myriad benefits to our well-being they hold within them. Our health and the health of the forest go hand in hand."

Confidence, Flow and Finding You (CoFFY)

by Nick Haines, The Five Institute

Although I originally set out to share the books I've read, as signposts for what is out there and which I found to be helpful, it felt pertinent to include this course, because this was one of the best experiences I've had and helped me on my journey. It came at a time when I'd been feeling a bit blocked and lacking in energy, yet I couldn't quite put my finger on why. When I heard about this online course and read some comments from previous participants I knew it was the next step for me and it had come had just the right time.

One of the things that really stuck out for me was, "You may be confident for what you do now, but are you confident about what you want to do next?" I knew the answer to that for me was, "Not really!" I had aspirations of becoming an authentic successful published writer, but I felt some internal conflict about this.

Confidence, Flow and Finding You (CoFFY)

by Nick Haines, The Five Institute

I'd never done an online course like it before, so didn't know what to expect, but any worries that may have been lingering in the back of my mind were soon allayed. It was such a supportive environment with other participants sharing their thoughts, experiences and questions. There was an online forum where we were to post our "homework" from each week and the opportunity to write comments to support each other. There were extra sessions that were more informal than the course material itself, so you could follow up and chat about the content.

Not only did I learn so much about myself and experience some big shifts in my thinking, but it was fun and uplifting . But, perhaps most significant of all, Nick explained a lot about Conscious Questions and this has been life changing. It's a way of tapping into your soul, and what it is you truly want in life, helping you to overcome fears, limiting beliefs and more. I'm going to share more on this soon.

(Nick still runs courses through The Five Institute like this one, though he may have revised the name of it now.)

The Money Box Game

by Rúna Magnúsdóttir & Nick Haines

On the back of the CoFFY course was the opportunity to play the Money Box Game. Another online course that lasted 3 weeks. Each day you were 'given' an imaginery amount of money and each day it doubled, so very quickly we were 'receiving' large sums of money. Each day we would have to decide what we'd spent it on. (Not literally as the money wasn't real). We had to do the research and show the figures and only a small amount could be saved (or invested) each day.

Essentially, it helped me to become aware of my relationship with money, where I had barriers and what I valued. Whilst it was fun and illuminating, it also helped me change and have a healthier approach to money and what is important in life.

(He periodically runs this game through The Five Institute , so follow the link if you want to find out more).

The Money Box Game by Rúna Magnúsdóttir & Nick Haines, The Five Institute

(He periodically runs this game through The Five Institute , so follow the link if you want to find out more).

21 Days of Abundance

by Deepak Chopra

Someone from the CoFFY course recommended this to me, so I gave it a try. It's a series of videos that have been shared on YouTube. You listen to one each day in your own time, like a meditation, following what's shared and then there's a mission for each day.

It's all about letting go of our limiting beliefs and welcoming all the goodness and positive energy into our lives. It's about gratitude, forgiveness, having a vision for the future and what you wish to have/bring into your life, investing in yourself, letting go trying to control everything, welcoming kindness and love into your life, and providing much greater awareness of all that you are challenged by and how you can change to live a happier and healthier life. It's about sharing with others, sharing the positive energy, and as it says in the title, welcoming abundance into your life. It's done wonders for me and I hope it does for you too.

21 Days of Abundance by Deepak Chopra

It's about sharing with others, sharing the positive energy, and as it says in the title, welcoming abundance into your life. It's done wonders for me and I hope it does for you too.

The Soul Must Go On

by Malcolm Thorogood

Details to follow...

The Soul Must Go On

by Malcolm Thorogood

Details to follow soon...

Miracles Happen

by Dr Brian Weiss

Details to follow soon...

Miracles Happen

by Dr Brian Weiss

Details to follow...

Many Lives, Many Masters

by Dr Brian Weiss

Details to follow...

Many Lives, Many Masters

by Dr Brian Weiss

Details to follow soon...

More books will added in another post in due course...

See other posts in this series...

March 26

Wed, 22 Apr 2026 16:09:30 GMT

WILDLIFE HIGHLIGHTS

At the end of February and early March, Bob and I were away in Norfolk for my birthday and had a wonderful trip. Plus, what a lovely birthday treat I had with both calendars produced by the Sussex Wildlife Trust showcasing two of my photos in the month of March! (Though rather disappointingly, they incorrectly attributed the one of the Common Seal to someone else). On the inside cover of the Rye Harbour calendar they also used my photo of mating Migrant Hawker dragonflies. This is a first for me, so I was thrilled they've used some of my photos.

This month we didn't get away for many wildlife outings, but the ones we had were fabulous!

We enjoyed a walk around RSPB Pulborough Brooks one morning, and whilst sitting in one of their hides, a Buzzard came and perched on a branch very near us. With my big 600mm lens, I've hardly cropped the first photo at all! I literally only had time to take a few photos, because it sensed we were near and quickly flew off again.

Nearer the middle of the month we had a weekend away at Elmley Nature Reserve on the Isle of Sheppey in Kent. As 'Friends' of Elmley, this year we've tried to visit more times than we usually do, and we've not been disappointed. We always seem to have different highlights, because naturally, at different times of year we see different behaviour or different species altogether.

The Brown Hares are always a joy to see and are generally more visible at this time of year. However, they're still not very active during the daytime. We spotted one hunkered down not far from the track, which we were able to photograph from the car (you have to stay in the vehicle along the entrance track 'safari drive'). Funnily enough, it was there again in the same spot the next day too. Well, at least, I'm assuming it's the same hare - they're difficult to tell apart!

After parking the car in the car park, we started to explore the reserve on foot. Heading towards the hides on the east side of the reserve gave us two very lovely sightings of male Reed Buntings. I love these two photos for different reasons. You can more easily see the detail of the bird as it perches on a bare branch. The composition is simpler and more striking. However, I love the gorgeous white blossom of the Blackthorn in the second photo, which gives more sense of place and context.

There are several swathes of reedbeds that run alongside the walking track leading back towards the car park. Although we're always keeping a watchful eye open for anything of interest along this way, I've never before seen Bearded Tits there. It was mid afternoon, and the call of the birds was heard first. Then suddenly, a small group of them popped up near the top of the reeds and started catching insects, like you can see in this first photo of a male. They were so tricky to photograph because we were standing alongside the reeds, and the reeds in front of us often were in the way, blowing in the wind.

The group disappeared further into the reeds and so we started to walk away, back up on the path. But then one male was spotted flying alongside us, and once again started to look for insects at the top of the reeds. Only now, we were above the reeds and could more easily see and photograph him. What a handsome chap! Just look at those black markings - just like a moustache from the 70s!

I was so thrilled to see the Bearded Tits as they can be so elusive. That experience really made my day!

Overall, we spent quite a bit more time in the car on the safari drive over the whole weekend than we usually do. Later in the afternoon the hares became more active. We even had two crossing the track together. They stopped near the far side for a few moments. It all happened so quickly, I didn't have time to change from my 600mm lens and the hares filled the frame. Sometimes, I even couldn't fit all of the hare in the frame, so I ended up cropping the image for a close up! It was lovely having such a close encounter.

'This is my best side!'

The reason we spent so much time in the car was because the Marsh Harriers were very active flying around, showing lots of courtship displays as well as hunting. I probably took some of my best photos of this species over this weekend. The female is mostly brown with a creamy head. She was very impressive and larger than the male.

The male is equally impressive. They have more grey on the wings with black at the tips and a grey head rather than creamy. Although it's customary to show photos of birds so you can see their head, I do love the second photo of the male coming in to land, as it shows off its powerful wings and long tail.

One time the male returned to the nesting site with a Mallard duckling clasped in its talons! It landed and started to feed, but then the female flew in, and took over. The male flew off, circled around, and then returned to her. Evidently, this was a food offering before consumating their bond. He landed on her back and they proceeded to mate. It's a bit of a tricky balancing act and it was over fairly quickly. We were lucky enough to witness them mating three times over the course of the weekend.

I couldn't decide which photos to show, so I figured I'd share all of my favourite ones of the male.

At times it was a challenge photographing the Marsh Harriers from the back seat of the car through the smaller window. But, I had the advantage of being able to move around from one side to the other more easily than Bob, who was in the driver's seat. Sadly, he didn't really get to appreciate the hares that had crossed the road earlier, as they were on the left.

Overall, we were both so pleased with the encounters we'd experienced over the weekend across the mix of species we'd seen. With just 15 minutes until closing, we were ready to make a move and start the final 10 minute drive back to the exit gate. I was still in the back seat on the left side, as Bob slowly pulled away. My eyes were still scouring the ditch beside us for hares, on the off chance there was one final treat for us before leaving.

We'd barely driven 10 metres when I suddenly called out to Bob, 'Stop!' To my utter amazement, a Bittern was standing on the far side of the bank next to no distance away from us. I couldn't believe my eyes! I couldn't believe how lucky I was to even spot it. I've never seen one at this reserve before, though I'd looked many times before. They're so easy to miss, blending in to the reeds around them. This one hardly moved at all, as it remained virtually motionless with its head pointing upwards, but with its eyes staring forward at us. Its body was far more creamy and light coloured than I'd ever appreciated before.

With next to no time to spare, Bob had to carefully manoeuvre the car so we were alongside it in a position that we could both see and photograph it.

With the 600mm lens, I couldn't fit the whole bird into the frame. I quickly switched to my zoom lens (100-500mm) and managed to grab a few shots.

How crazy to have one of the best experiences in life and only have about 5 minutes. There was no time to savour it because we were in a rush to capture this spectacular moment. One of the wardens pulled up alongside us, explaining we had to leave. Thankfully, he gave us a few extra minutes when we said there was a bittern on the bank beside us. But, it wasn't long enough. How sad that we weren't able to sit quietly and watch it, see if it moved, fished, preened or didn't anything else of interest.

It was my highlight of the whole weekend. Amazing! I'm so grateful to have had those few precious minutes. Special wildlife moments like that can be so fleeting, but they can be so powerful they last a lifetime.

Go to previous month...

Winter in Suffolk and Norfolk - Part 1

Wed, 08 Apr 2026 07:09:13 GMT

Winter is an excellent time to visit the north Norfolk coast, in terms of wildlife opportunities. It seemed the perfect area for my partner, Bob, and I to explore for our most recent holiday, which was for my birthday. It's a place we're both very fond of and yet we'd not been there together before, so it was lovely to return together and share some fabulous new wildlife experiences. We'd booked a lovely cottage in Morston for one week, but as usual, we made the journey there part of our adventure. We had an overnight stop in Lowestoft on our way north, which allowed us to visit RSPB Minsmere, Suffolk before heading to Norfolk. We had two great days before we'd even reached our accommodation for the week.

In the weeks leading up to our trip, the weather was either wet, dull or windy, or all three! We didn't have high hopes for how many dry or sunny days we'd have for our trip, so I packed a few books, just in case! That also meant we'd packed all the necessary waterproofs and wellies, ready for anything. As it turned out, we had a really glorious week of lovely sunny, dry weather. What luck!

Our previous visits to Minsmere have always been great and this was no different. We were really hoping to see some Woodcock, without spooking them and having the usual rear view as one rapidly flies away. I've only ever seen them a couple of time before, so I was eager for my first good view of one. Perhaps it was fitting, therefore, that I was the one that spotted one, at the precise moment Bob was saying, 'We probably won't find any!'

At first, it was not so well concealed, as I saw it sitting amongst the wet green grass. The dry brown autumn leaves are better at providing camouflage for this gorgeous looking bird. It was brilliant to see it walk around a little, and have a brief glimpse of its long bill. We were able to approach a little bit closer, by which time it was hiding in more dense foliage. The feather detail is stunning and it was such a privilege to have a reasonable view of one. It buoyed us for the whole day and was the best start for our holiday that we could hope for.

All around the nature reserve we spotted several Munjac Deer. They are the smallest deer species we have in the UK, though they're not native. They were clearly used to visitors and were fairly relaxed as they foraged for food, so long as they didn't feel threatened.

We headed to Island Mere Hide first, where we'd had such spectacular close views of a Bittern on our previous visit . Naturally, we didn't expect the same again. However, it was lovely looking out across the reeds and water watching the movements of the birds around us. Marsh Harriers and Great White Egrets were the biggest birds seen flying around, and on the water we saw several pairs of Great Crested Grebes courting and diving amongst some other waterfowl, plus a few Whooper Swans.

After a while, we moved on to the Bittern Hide, which is positioned much higher and gives a fabulous view overlooking the expanse of the reedbed. It was a slow start in there, but when we saw a Bittern suddenly fly in and land in the reeds ahead of us, not too far away. We were thrilled. Whilst waiting to see if it would appear wading through the reeds, a familiar flash of blue across in front of us. A Kingfisher perched on a branch for a few moments before moving on to another spot, perching on a reed. It was way too far away to photograph, but always lovely to see.

Our patience with the Bittern was finally rewarded as it appeared from between the reeds. It's movements were so slow, as it moved stealth-like through the water, keeping close to the edge of the reeds. This was probably my first decent, prolonged view of a Bittern. Not so close as before, but it was wonderful to witness its behaviour.

E ventually, it disappeared into the reeds and we didn't see it again. So, we moved on to the North Hide.

I was pleased to have some lovely views of the Black-tailed Godwits. I'd seen large numbers of them flying together at Pulborough Brooks before, but some distance away. So, this was the first time I could appreciate them up close and see the black tail for which they're named.

The light was improving all the time as the day progressed and shining nicely on some ponies grazing around the water's edge, where Shovelers and Teal were swimming.

From the hide we headed to the sea along the North Wall. A Green Woodpecker flew past and a Red Deer in a nearby field stopped in its tracks, keeping an eye on us, before strolling on. It was a lovely end to the day.

After our overnight stay in Lowestoft, and a fabulous filling all-you-can-eat breakfast, we headed up the coast to Horsey Beach, Norfolk. The last time I'd visited the place was in December 2018 when the female Grey Seals had come ashore to give birth to their young. In March, it's the moulting season, so they're all back ashore again, even the young seals who aren't yet strong enough to stay out at sea.

At first, we were able to walk along the back edge of the beach in a roped off section. But, when we reached the main sections where large numbers of seals were on the beach, we had to walk up in the sand dunes and look down to the beach. Then later on, we were able to drop down to the beach again where it was safe to do so, keeping a respectful distance from the seals. It was just as well there were some volunteer wardens there to help make sure people did this!

To start with, it was quite windy. I loved how the sand was blowing across the beach. It was quite atmospheric whilst the seals were sleeping.

The weather did improve during the course of the day and we even had some spells of sunshine...not that the seals noticed, as they slept a lot!

Occasionally, I caught sight of one yawning.

The male Grey Seals are much darker in colour and a lot heavier too, weighing between 170-300kg. They look a bit like a large dog from some angles!

During the course of our visit, we saw several swimming in the sea, with some coming ashore nearby. We watched how they'd use the tide to help them get as far up the beach as possible. Since the females were between about 150-200kg, it was a lot more effort for them manoeuvre themselves with just their flippers.

The patterns on their fur were so varied in colour. They're like human fingerprints, because each seal has their own unique pattern, which remains the same even after they've moulted. This black and white one reminded me of a semi-precious stone.

W hen they weren't sleeping, or moving up the beach, I'd occasionally spot a seal having a good stretch. They looked far more agile doing this, even balletic looking.

In this next photo, you can see a young seal that's started moulting near the head. It looks like it has a bald patch.

With the tide gradually coming in, the seals kept shifting up the beach, but virtually always remained close to the tide line. However, this little youngster kept shuffling closer towards the sand dunes. In this photo, it's in mid-shuffle, so you can see how its slightly lifted up off the sand.

On our return to the car park we only stopped occasionally to take photos, as we'd already taken quite a few by then. My interest was peaked when I spotted these two females fighting. It wasn't very aggressive, but one would rise up and bash into the other one.

At other moments it looked more playful and affectionate. However, looks can be deceiving!

After a lovely day spent mostly at the beach, we moved on up the coast to Sheringham, where we'd heard there had been good sightings of a very rare migrant bird species, an Eastern Black Redstart. Although, by this time the sun had disappeared and the light was very poor, we gave it a shot anyway.

We walked around the location close to the promenade, but it didn't seem especially good for it there. But just a little further up was a manicured garden area with far more vegetation, so we slowly meandered around there for a bit, keeping our eyes peeled. We were almost at the point of giving up, when Bob suddenly spotted a bird in a bush beside the promenade. It then came out into the open, perched at the edge of the bush and we saw it clearly. Bingo! What a lovely striking bird and the perfect end to our day (below).

All we had to do from there was pop into the supermarket and then drive to our accommodation. Navigating the country lanes in the dark was interesting, but we reached Morston without incident, and with the hope of a wonderful week of wildlife sightings ahead of us.

More to follow on this trip soon!

Books and Courses 1

Wed, 11 Mar 2026 10:08:50 GMT

THE FIRST SET OF BOOKS AND COURSES THAT HAVE HELPED ME ON MY JOURNEY

I began this blog series, Living My The Best Life Possible , back in 2022 after a series of events, and a couple of chronic injuries, quite literally stopped me in my tracks. Having followed conventional approaches to try and turn things around, but to no avail, I felt compelled to seek out help from alternative approaches. I opened my mind to the possibility they could help me, taking a more holistic approach to my healing.

Along my journey, I've done some serious soul searching, dug deep to uncover suppressed and hidden trauma, and held a mirror up to myself, realising there were things I needed to let go of and much I needed to change. It's been uncomfortable at times and emotional, but completely worthwhile, as I've worked through things and persevered. Awareness was key . From that I had the power to change my thought patterns and my view of the world. I know all my relationships are better for it, including the one I have with myself, and I wouldn't be where I am today without what I've learned. I've discovered there are many different ways to heal and I've been amazed by what I've learned.

It's been surprising, uplifting and most of all, empowering.

Along this journey I've been led from one book to another, then another, and on it goes. Sometimes the books have been recommended to me by family, friends or health practitioners, other times they've merely been mentioned in passing or in another book, and I've felt as though it was something that could help me further my knowledge and understanding. In many ways, they were like signs guiding me along at just the right moment when I needed them. My curiosity to learn more has led to a voracious appetite to read, which I've never experienced before. I love it! I feel like I'm on a fast train to somewhere, but the landscape out of the window isn't a blur as I whizz by, metaphorically speaking, but a glorious view of the world around me, simply seen from a new perspective.

There is still much I wish to share in this blog series about my experience, in the hope it helps others and not just myself. But, it will take time to write it all whilst I'm still working. So, in the meantime, I decided to share some of the most significant books that have helped me along the way. It isn't the full list, by any means. For now, I'm only including a summary and snapshot of the significance to me, but hopefully this will be interesting and/or useful. Perhaps one of them will grab your attention and be something you might wish to read to help you on your own unique journey.

You can see a list of all the books that will eventually be mentioned in this blog series by clicking on the button below. However, I'm going to split them over two or three posts, so each one doesn't get too long!

The Mind Body Bible: Your Personalised Prescription for Total Health by Dr Mark Atkinson

"Dr Mark Atkinson is one of the UK's leading intergrated medical doctors. He is the founder of the British College of Integrated Medicine, a post-graduate training college for health professionals."

This was the first book I read about the mind-body connection , which opened me up to the possibility that one is affected by the other, supporting the idea that an holistic view of health and well-being is so important.

In the back of the book he describes serveral powerful techniques for "de-activating past emotional trauma and dissolving self-limiting behavioural patterns." This was where I learned about Symptom Dialogue and Emotional Trauma Release .

Reading this book was like opening the door to understanding myself better on a far deeper level than I'd experienced before.

The Mind Body Bible: Your Personalised Prescription for Total Health by Dr Mark Atkinson

"Dr Mark Atkinson is one of the UK's leading intergrated medical doctors. He is the founder of the British College of Integrated Medicine, a post-graduate training college for health professionals."

Reading this book was like opening the door to understanding myself better on a far deeper level than I'd experienced before.

The Journey

by Brandon Bays

Brandon Bays bravely and openly shares her personal experience navigating some challenging times, including the discovery that she had a basketball sized tumour in her uterus. She "refused drugs and surgery, instead discovering a powerful direct path to the potent healing power of the soul. Six and a half weeks later, she was tumour free."

The process she used for letting go of trauma, which she explains in her book, has been refined and improved over the years (the first edition was written in the eighties). With practitioners around the world offering the Journey Work, she has helped thousands of people on their own emotional journey.

As I read her book, I experienced strong emotional reactions myself not to her experience, but because of what it stirred within me about my own life . As a result, I was inspired to seek out someone who could help me release my own personal trauma, with amazing positive results: The Journey Work

One of the key concepts she mentioned in the book was the work of Candace Pert, PhD, who discovered the cells of our body hold on to emotional memories . I remember thinking, If our brains can hold memories, why not the cells in our bodies?

The Journey by Brandon Bays

As I read her book, I experienced strong emotional reactions myself not to her experience, but because of what it stirred within me about my own life. As a result, I was inspired to seek out someone who could help me release my own personal trauma, with amazing positive results: The Journey Work

The Secret

by Rhonda Byrne

I first read this book many years ago, when it first came out. Then, more recently, it came back onto my radar and I felt inspired to read it again. The Secret is the law of attraction and "how you can have, be, or do anything you want." It might seem a crazy notion, but the more I've read and experienced life with this awareness, the more I believe it's true. The challenge for some people may be in believing there is a mysterious unexplanable infinite power in the universe that will draw to you what it is you wish, ask or pray for. Even if you don't believe it's that easy, it's certainly an interesting concept. It's possible to put it to the test, and see if you can draw into your life something you hope for.

Thinking Positively is one of the key issues. As my situation in life was different this second time around of reading the book, something quite significant jumped out at me and resonated strongly. "You don't have to fight to get rid of disease. Just the simple process of letting go of negative thoughts will allow your natural state of health to emerge within you. And your body will heal itself." 'Let go' were the words Caroline Kremer had said to me in one of our sessions, and I knew this was a key for my return to good health and happiness.

The Secret by Rhonda Byrne

I first read this book many years ago, when it first came out. Then, more recently, it came back onto my radar and I felt inspired to read it again. The Secret is the law of attraction and "how you can have, be, or do anything you want." It might seem a crazy notion, but the more I've read and experienced life with this awareness, the more I believe it's true. The challenge for some people may be in believing there is a mysterious unexplanable infinite power in the universe that will draw to you what it is you wish, ask or pray for. Even if you don't believe it's that easy, it's certainly an interesting concept. It's possible to put it to the test, and see for yourself if you can draw into your life something you hope for.

The Greatest Secret

by Rhonda Byrne

Reading her first book naturally led me on to reading her follow up book. It was a little more challenging to read, trying to grasp all the concepts, but that isn't necessarily a bad thing! When a new perspective is presented it's tempting to resist it because it doesn't fit in with our beliefs and values. But, if we're able to be curious, open, and consider other possibilities, the new knowledge can allow us to adapt and grow. This book has been part of that journey for me. It some ways, it lay a foundation for later, because some of the things I read then make sense now that I've read and learned more.

One of the key concepts is that we are more than the sum of our parts. We are not just a mind and a body. They are merely the vehicle in which we experience life. We are Awareness. She explains it much better than I could, so it's worth a read if this topic intrigues you. Ultimately, this is a book that tries to help you find a path to happiness.

One analogy she used that I particularly remember and like, is the Mountain of Consciousness . When you're at the bottom of the mountain you can't see what is around the corner, so you worry and fear the unknown. But, the higher up the mountain you are, the more clearly you see everything, from a different perspective and you realise the worry and fear is a waste of time and unnecessary.

The Greatest Secret

by Rhonda Byrne

There were some powerful quotes that resonated with me:

"The first step to freedom is when we understand that our thoughts create our life. What you think is what manifests."

"It's your thought about a person, circumstance or event that's the source of negative situations in your life, not the actual person, circumstance or situation/event."

"Don't expect people, circumstances, or events to change for you to feel better. To change how you feel in any given moment is always an inside job."

The next book was a good follow-on from both Rhonda Byrne's books as there were similar themes.

"It's not your past that makes you who you are but how you respond to it."

As I've now discovered, there's more than one way to do everything, so it's good to explore the options and find the right approach that resonates with you personally.

The Ultimate Introduction to NLP: How to Build a Successful Life

by Richard Bandler, Alessio Roberti & Owen Fitzpatrick

I'd heard of Neurolinguistic Programming (NLP) but didn't really know what it was, so I read this book to find out more. It's written like a story, about a man attending an NLP conference, learning about the key concepts, how he was responding to it and the observations he made. Later in the book, there are more examples of exercises you can try to help think more positively - changing the brain and how it's wired to think.

Effectively, they highlight how important good communication skills are, and not just verbally. With greater understanding we can improve all our relationships, whether it be personal, in a work environment, or even when you come across random people during the course of your day.

One of the things I really liked was how they explained we all have a different map of the world and no two maps are the same . This is how two people can share the same event/situation, but the experience will be different and unique for each of them. It's a good reminder that we don't all think the same or have the same beliefs. Consequently, we'll react or respond differently. It's why someone can take what you say completely the wrong way from what you intended. We all see the world with different eyes.

The Ultimate Introduction to NLP: How to Build a Successful Life by Richard Bandler, Alessio Roberti & Owen Fitzpatrick

When someone doesn't respond the way you were expecting, this gives you feedback that you haven't been understood. So, it means you have to change how you communicate. You won't get anywhere if you repeatedly keep saying the same thing in the same way expecting the other person to respond differently. If you want a different response you need to change what or how you're saying it. This was one of the key things that really stuck with me. I certainly tried some of the recommended techniques and found them to be helpful.

The Art of Kind and Flowing Relationships by Nicholas Haines, The Five Institute

When I read this book I was already familiar with his work and had even taken the Vitality Test . It reveals the balance of the five elements that you possess (water, wood, earth, fire and metal) and helps you to understand your personality - why you are the way you are. This is based on ancient Chinese wisdom and philosophy.

Nick has worked as an acupuncturist for over 30 years and shares his knowledge, experience and insights in wonderfully accessible ways. Not only have I read his books and seen some of his YouTube videos, but I've also done a couple of his online courses, which were life-changing. (I'll share more on that in due course).

I read this book when I was starting a new romantic relationship and I found it hugely beneficial. However, I think it could be equally useful for anyone who has been married for years, who has children, or if you're experiencing some challenging relationships in any area of your life. It provides a great introduction to the Five Elements or Energies. There are some great tips on how to be flexible and flowing, creating some magic in your relationships and showing kindness and respect, plus so much more.

The Art of Kind and Flowing Relationships

by Nicholas Haines, The Five Institute .

The Story of Boxes: The Good, The Bad and The Ugly

by Rúna Magnúsdóttir & Nicholas Haines

"'Boxes' are used as a metaphor for a specific mode of thinking that's embedded in virtually all of humanity; a mode of thinking that's based on grouping, classifying and categorizing people, things, and ideas." In the book, they say that "your boxes inform your beliefs and influence your behaviours, and actions, and lead to all sorts of biases, both conscious and unconscious."

They look at all sorts of 'boxes' such as those driven by history, by a need for safety and security, by a desire for higher status, and by a desire to bond or align, plus more. It's hugely insightful. It's about encouraging an awareness and curiosity that helps you spot when you're using a 'box', understanding what's going on, and then deciding on the action - love, leave or live with your box.

In its own little way, this book is a valuable step towards creating human liberation, peace and happiness. It challenges us to pay more attention to the things we say and do.

The Story of Boxes: The Good, The Bad and The Ugly by Rúna Magnúsdóttir & Nicholas Haines

In its own little way, this book is a valuable step towards creating human liberation, peace and happiness. It challenges us to pay more attention to the things we say and do.

One of the sections I really appreciated was on Conscious Questions . I briefly wrote about them in my blog Holistic View of Health , but I discovered more when reading this book an, much later, when attending one of Nick's online courses. This is something I'll be writing more about in the future, as I've found them to be an amazing tool for not only understanding myself at a much deeper level, but also illiciting real, positive and lasting change. They can be used to help you heal.

I've come to realise there's more than one way to do most things in life, and healing is no exception . That's why I believe the key is in finding what resonates with you as an individual. I've found that information has come to my attention in a number of different ways, but, as is so often the case, it seems to arrive at just the right moment when I need it. So, I've learned to trust that and go with the flow, even if it means going down a line of investigation I'm not sure about. I've noticed that there have been times when I've been more closed off and didn't follow one of these little nudges. But, then it has reappeared further down the line, when I was ready and in a more open frame of mind, so I've eventually taken the plunge and it always leads me to something pertinent to my journey.

The Tapping Solution

by Nick Ortner

"Based on the principles of both ancient acupressure and modern psychology, tapping concentrates on specific energy meridians while focusing on negative emotions or physical sensations. Combined with spoken word, tapping helps calm the nervous system to restart the balance of energy in the body and rewire the brain to respond in healthy ways."

This book is all about the Emotional Freedom Technique (EFT). It involves tapping on acupressure points whilst repeating various words, sentences, or dialogue relating to the emotions, situations and limiting beliefs. It gives you the chance to let go of the stress or negative emotions you're feeling, or gradually see it reduce. The great thing about this process is that it gets you to delve deeper into the subconscious to find out what's behind the negative feelings.

One of the things I remember and liked the most from reading this book, was the Tree exericse. First I drew a basic tree with leaves, branches, a trunk and roots. Then, in the area of the leaves I wrote the symptoms I was experiencing. In the branches I listed the associated feelings. On the trunk, I wrote the events or trauma behind them. Finally, in the roots I wrote down my limiting beliefs and underlying concerns. It seems like such a simple exercise, but it was very revealing. It helped me peel back the layers of my experiences to understand where it was all coming from. This knowledge, this awareness, was really powerful as it opened me up to the possibility of change.

The Tapping Solution

by Nick Ortner

Whilst I was applying the taping solution to various past trauma, it can also be applied to other areas of your life, such as relationships, work, finances, success, phobias and fears, and more. I definitely felt a shift when I was using this techniques, so I feel it works, but as time has moved on, I've continued to explore other techniques for healing that have resonated with me more, so I've not used it again yet. However, its the sort of thing you can also dip back into at any time.

Healing Your Emotions

by Angela Hicks & John Hicks

I wanted to learn more about the five elements that Nick Haines of the Five Institute had introduced me to and traditional Chinese philosophy. He recommended this book and I found it fascinating.

"The ancient Chinese understood that positive emotions can keep us healthy whilst negative emotions significantly and unfavourably affect our health. Our bodies manifest our emotions, for example worry can deplete the immune system and frustration and anger can strain the heart."

In the book they describe each of the elements and how they're connected to certain parts of our body. They offer ways to find balance and harmony, and ultimately better health, by understanding our specific personality and energy profile.

"This is a book which will help you to transform anger, conquer fear, release sadness and break the worry habit and restore health and well-being."

Healing Your Emotions

by Angela Hicks & John Hicks

I wanted to learn more about the five elements that Nick Haines of the Five Institute had introduced me to and traditional Chinese philosophy. He recommended this book and I found it fascinating.

"This is a book which will help you to transform anger, conquer fear, release sadness and break the worry habit and restore health and well-being."

Chinese proverb:

"A good laugh makes you ten years younger, whilst worry turns your hair grey."

The Bates Method for Better Eyesight Without Glasses

by William H Bates, MD

I recall this book was mentioned to me on two separate occasions by different people, so I bought a secondhand copy of it. Bates (1860-1931) was a physician who practiced ophthalmology and didn't always follow conventional approaches like his colleagues at the time. He believed that the eye focuses by elongating the eyeball through use of the extraocular oblique muslces rather than the lens itself. The culmination of his work and experience led to the creation of the Bates Method and the writing of this book. He's been able to help thousands of people improve their eye sight not only when he was alive, but since.

In the book he explains a lot of detail about a variety of eye conditions. Many of the issues people experience with poor eye sight can be linked to tension in the muscles of the eye, which comes from stress and how we are feeling. He discovered that trauma and negative experiences, even at a young age, could affect our eye sight. It can reduce when we hear sudden unfamiliar noises, when we lie, and at night when we sleep. The many exercises he discusses are about reducing the stress on the eye. 'Palming' is the one I've used the most.

It's a fascinating book, which even led me to meet with a Bates Method consultant. She helped shine a light on the issues I have, which thankfully aren't too bad. Thanks to her I've managed to reduce the magnification of my reading glasses and improve my eyesight, which has been confirmed by a more recent visit to an optometrist. But, it's work in progress, which is more a reflection of how often I do the necssary eye exercises than anything else.

The Bates Method for Better Eyesight Without Glasses

by William H Bates, MD

In the book he explains a lot of detail about a variety of eye conditions. Many of the issues people experience with poor eye sight can be linked to tension in the muscles of the eye, which comes from stress and how we are feeling. He discovered that trauma and negative experiences, even at a young age, could affect our eyesight. It can reduce when we hear sudden unfamiliar noises, when we lie, and at night when we sleep. The many exercises he discusses are about reducing the stress on the eye. 'Palming' is the one I've used the most.

It's a fascinating book, which even led me to meet with a Bates Method consultant. She helped shine a light on the issues I have, which thankfully aren't too bad. Thanks to her I've managed to reduce the magnification of my reading glasses and improve my eye sight, which has been confirmed by a more recent visit to an optometrist. But, it's work in progress, which is more a reflection of how often I do the necssary eye exercises than anything else.

Freedom Is by Brandon Bays

Although this is a book too, I bought the CD and felt this was far more beneficial for me. Brandon speaks with a lovely soft American voice and in a style that made me feel like she was talking to me and not just reading her book. There were excellent guided exercises throughout. Step by step, with pauses, she guided me through them as I explored some deep emotions. Since then, I've been able to replay them again and work through and release more issues, which has been very liberating.

The main sections are on Effortless Being, Unattachment, Being in the Present, Gratitude, Emotions, Love, Forgiveness and Englightenment . It's all very powerful and I truly felt transformed by the end. One of the key things she addressed early on was about ceasing the effort with things, striving and trying so hard, but instead being relaxed so things feel effortless . She also talked about the importance of fully experiencing the present, which of course ties in with mindfulness and meditation practices. Her explanations and guidance on gratitude, emotions, love and forgiveness have laid the foundations for my life going forward, which makes me so grateful for this CD.

Freedom Is by Brandon Bays

The main sections are on Effortless Being, Unattachment, Being in the Present, Gratitude, Emotions, Love, Forgiveness and Englightenment .

It's all very powerful and I truly felt transformed by the end. One of the key things she addressed early on was about ceasing the effort with things, striving and trying so hard, but instead being relaxed so things feel effortless . She also talked about the importance of fully experiencing the present, which of course ties in with mindfulness and meditation practices. Her explanations and guidance on gratitude, emotions, love and forgiveness have laid the foundations for my life going forward, which makes me so grateful for this CD.

* * * * *

The next book on my list I add with reticence because it's much more scientific and goes into great detail about the body and how it works on a cellular level, which at times was tricky to follow. I didn't understand it all, but enough to realise the significance of neuroscientist Candace Pert's work. It's for that reason that I've added it. Her follow-up book is much better and an easier read, which I've also added to this list.

"Her pioneering research on how the chemicals inside us form a dynamic information network, linking mind and body, is not only provocative, it is revoluntionary."

Molecules of Emotion: Why You Feel The Way You Feel

by Candace B Pert, PhD

When she was a PhD student, in 1973, Pert discovered the opiate receptor in our bodies, which is the docking site for natural endorphins that create pain relief and euphoria . It's the mechanism that allows us to feel good. At the time, this was ground breaking. Through continuing research she's discovered that it is not only present in humans, but all animals and, get this, even single cell organisms.

She also discovered that viruses use the same receptors as the neuropeptides in our bodies as a way to enter a cell, "depending on how much of the natural peptide for a particular receptor is around and available to bind, the virus that fits that receptor will have an easier or harder time getting into the cell." The natural peptides are what relate to our emotions, which she refers to as the molecules of emotions. She goes on to say, "because the molecules of emotion are involved in the process of a virus entering our cell, it seems logical to assume that the state of our emotions will affect whether or not we succumb to viral infection." I found this fascinating! Imagine how feeling happier could help prevent you from suffering from a virus! I think that alone is a good reason to start thinking more positively.

Another interesting fact is how the bundle of nerves that bridges the left and right hemispheres of the brain is thicker in women than men, so they are able to switch back and forth from the rational (left brain) to the intuitive (right brain) with relative ease, "with fewer nerves connecting the hemispheres, men tend to be more focused in one hemisphere or the other."

Molecules of Emotion: Why You Feel The Way You Feel

by Candace B Pert, PhD

I found this book so fascinating because it provided a rational, scientific basis for understanding the mind-body connection and how our emotions don't just originate in the brain, but the body too.

"The brain is not the controlling power house of the body it is the conscious mind, but the body is the unconscious mind. It's a network, and our emotions and the release of peptides can occur/originate from any part in the body and not only from the brain."

Everything You Need to Know to Feel Go(o)d

by Candace B Pert, PhD with Nancy Marriott

At the start of this book Pert explains and summarises in less depth her first book, so this might be a more appealing read.

This book was a game changer for me, bridging the gap between the science and it's implications in life. Pert draws on her own expeience to document "how mind, body and spirit cannot be separated; and that we're hardwired for bliss, which is both physical and divine. Feeling good, and feeling God, she beleives are one and the same."

I was a skeptic and agnostic at the time of reading this book, but I didn't let the mention of 'God' deter me from reading it. So, whether you're open to more spiritual ideas or not, the facts and messages in this book are a real eye opener and absolutely worth reading.

For me, this book was pivotal in my understanding about the mind and body, which has helped me change enormously.

Everything You Need to Know to Feel Go(o)d

by Candace B Pert, PhD with Nancy Marriott

At the start of this book Pert explains and summarises in less depth her first book, so this might be a more appealing read.

For me, this book was pivotal in my understanding about the mind and body, which has helped me change enormously.

"There is irrefutable evidence that brain cells travel from the bone marrow into the brain. We used to think this stopped after childhood but now know the growth of brain cells never stops. It means you can learn, change and grow because you're literally making a new brain everyday - being given the opportunity to think new thoughts, change yor mind, to create the reality you experience, from moment to moment. If you have uplifting thoughts you're building a very different brain than if you have negative one."

She also mentions that recent findings support the theory about how recall is stored throughout the body and not the brain alone. Memory resides at the level of the receptor (in, on our around our cells). There is a major storage area in the spinal chord, internal organs and the surface of the skin. Understanding this helps us see how trauma can be held within the cells of the body and is an important step into understanding how emotional healing is linked to physical healing.

More books will be added in a second post soon...

See other posts in this series...

February 26

Tue, 10 Mar 2026 13:14:51 GMT

WILDLIFE HIGHLIGHTS

Bob and I have visited West Rise Marsh a few times this month to look for Jack Snipe, but sadly without much success. We did see one, we think, on one visit, but it flew off before we set eyes on it. It's much the same with the Common Snipe, which as their name suggests, we see more of, but they're super skittish and fly off well before we're even close to where they're hiding, around the boggy wet marshes.

With so many wet, windy and dull days, plus the fact I still have to go to work, I was starting to wonder if my February Highlights would be virtually non existent, so I was content with photographing and observing a Heron, standing in the water. They can stand motionless for ages, and move very slowly, stealth-like through the water to new areas. Unfortunately, I was just moving into a new position, when it actually caught a fish. I missed capturing that moment when its head quickly and unexpectedly darted downwards and snatched its prey from the water. But, you can see the Heron in mid-gulp (first photo).

With the weather improving later in the day, we decided upon another visit to Eastbourne Pier just before sundown. I was blown away by the sheer volume of Starlings murmurating either side of the pier. It was just a shame they were staying fairly low in the sky and not bunching up close together, turning and changing direction rapidly, like we've sometimes seen.

As a result, I tried a different approach, and slowed down the shutter speed on my camera to try and create an image that really gives you a sense of the speed of their movement, as well as their volume. Numbers are usually much higher by February and March, so it's still a good time to watch this amazing spectacle.

There were limited opportunities to get out for a walk this month, and my camera had a bit of a rest. On the days we did manage to get out, I ended up taking my camera for a long walk, as it was even switched on. My Wildlife Highlights might have ended here, but thankfully, we had some wonderful garden visitors towards the end of the month - Long Tailed Tits. I love these birds. Bob, having bought some new bird feeders, put out some fat balls in one of the cages and it was only a matter of about 3 days before the Long Tailed Tits found them and have become fairly frequent visitors, much to our joy. I took some photos from indoors as it was raining - hence the poor light - but they were fun to watch for a little while. In the second photo, one of them stretched out their leg behind and then raised it over to its head and had a scratch.

One of the main problems for them, is that we seem to have a very feisty little Blue Tit, who is defending the bird feeders and chasing off the Long Tailed Tits. However, the Blue Tit went to roost before them, so they came in for a feed during the last of the daylight and made the most of it. I'm looking forward to seeing more of them. I've heard about how you can have a row of Long Tailed Tits all nestled in tight together on one branch. I think this is when the fledglings have left the nest but not off on their own yet. I would love to see that someday!

Right at the end of the month, Bob and I went away to Norfolk for a week's break to celebrate my birthday. We love visiting RSPB Minsmere whenever we have the opportunity, so we stopped there on our journey north and had a fabulous day. We saw plenty of little Muntjac Deer roaming the woodland, and this one was fairly close to the path, busy munching away at the ground. I'll post more about our day at Minsmere in another blog soon (with a link here).

On the last day of the month, I really enjoyed a trip to Horsey Beach in Norfolk. There were lots of Grey Seals hauled out on the beach as it's the moulting season. Each Seal has its own unique pattern on its fur, and even after it's moulted the same pattern remains on the next layer.

There will be plenty more to follow in a separate blog about this trip. This is just a little taster - a seal scratching its face.

Go to previous month... or Go to next month...

January 26

Sat, 07 Feb 2026 18:42:57 GMT

WILDLIFE HIGHLIGHTS

January can be a difficult month for many people. I don't usually suffer from the January Blues, but I did notice this year I felt a certain flatness. I think it was largely because there were days when Bob and I would go out for a walk and hardly see anything at all. Well, that is, anything out of the ordinary. There's no doubting it - I get a real lift when nature reveals its beauty to me in its many wonderful and surprising ways. But, it's been a good reminder that even the simple things can give great pleasure if we take the time to appreciate them. Sometimes, it's worth looking with more careful eyes and appreciating even the ordinary.

The year actually was off to a great start, when the snow fell early on in the month. I love the snow! I'll leap at any opportunity I have to walk in it! Living close to the coast meant we didn't have any on our doorstep, but Ashdown Forest had a good covering and it wasn't too far away to visit. Even the car park looked lovely, with the sun shining through the wintry trees on this gorgeous sunny day. It might have been crisp and cold, but we were dressed for it and of course had some welcome hot drinks after our walk. The highlight of the day, aside from the snow, was having some brief glimpses of a couple of Crossbills at the top of the fir trees, though not as good as we'd had in December .

We then headed back to the lake to watch the starling murmuration near the Sussex border. It wasn't the most spectacular murmuration I've ever seen - the birds were flying fairly low it seemed and went to roost very quickly. But, even so, I was happy to have a nice photo of the masses of them just moments before they disappeared into the reedbed, which isn't something I've photographed before.

We returned to the Cuckmere River a few more times to photograph the Rock Pipits again. There was one walking around the muddy grassy bank, picking out insects to eat. But, what I really hoped for, was for it to walk on the ice. I didn't think it would, as there wasn't likely to be any insects on it. But, I was wrong!

On another occasion, when it was sunnier, we found one on a particularly lush bit of grass and it gradually walked closer and closer. It stopped beside the riverbank for a moment and I was able to grab this shot just before it flew off.

On most of the occasions we ventured down to the river, we went looking for the Water Pipit. There were a few in the area, but for me, I was seeing mainly the one in one specific area of the river. It seemed to stay quite loyal to that spot. But, it was very flighty. No sooner did we spot it, when it flew over to the other side of the bank. My first photos were record shots taken from very far away. But with perseverance, we both gradually managed to take some better photos.

You can see it wasn't always with the best weather. On this day, we had rain and even a small fluttering of snow (that didn't settle). This is my best photo of the lot and I love it because not only is its beak open, but you can see the water droplets resting on its back. It has a more prominent eye stripe than the Rock Pipit and less markings on the chest, though you can't easily see this in my photo. Bob has some better photos, which you can see if you click here .

My other highlight from our days on the river, was when this Green Sandpiper was wading along the water's edge. I was able to stay down low on the opposite side of the bank as it gradually started working its way closer towards me. I love the reflections of it in the water. The Common Sandpiper is the one we usually see around here, and I've only seen the Green Sandpiper once before. This is my first set of photos of this species, so I was pretty chuffed.

If you look carefully, you'll see this Green Sandpiper has something in its beak, which its about to eat.

I admit, ducks and geese don't get me quite as excited as other bird species, unless they're chicks - I'm a sucker for goslings and ducklings. So, when Bob mentioned there were some Russian White-fronted Geese in the Cuckmere Valley, I wasn't too worried if I didn't see them. But, I was happy to go for another walk along the river regardless. When we were coming down the hill towards the water we didn't see them at first through our bins. There were mostly Canada Geese in the fields and waterways on the other side of the Cuckmere River. We started walking along the riverside and every now and then we'd stop to survey our surroundings with our bins, seeing if we could identify the birds we were seeing. Eventually, Bob spotted a few of the White-fronted Geese some distance away, and then a few more. It was interesting to see how noticeably smaller they were standing alongisde the Canada Geese. I took a few record shots, but they were too far away really. Then, all of a sudden, a small group of them that I was photographing suddenly took flight.

Feeling a little more excited, I kept snapping away as they flew slightly towards us. It was lovely having a closer view of their pink bill and undersides just as they veered off in another direction. I was able to appreciate this even more so when I was back home later looking at the photos in more detail. Apparently, there's usually always a few Greenland White-fronted Geese that make it to the south of England - they have an orange bill - but it's less common to see the Russian subspecies and in such high number.

Earlier in the month, Bob and I had a lovely few days away at Elmley Nature Reserve on the Isle of Sheppey. The safari drive was the quietest I'd ever seen it, with very little water and consequently very few wading birds. There was more activity once we parked the car, as some Redwing and Fieldfare were feeding on the berries in the trees nearby. However, I struggled to get any decent shots as they were good at hiding amongst the twigs and branches.

We followed one of the walking paths away from the car park and towards the reedbeds - a particular stretch we usually cover more than few times with each visit. We've often seen a Little Owl perched on the bricks of the old building along the track, but this time we were treated to a view of the pair together. I gather it's the female that is usually a little more wary (the one of the left and slightly behind the male). Whilst we were standing there, she retreated in to a hole in the wall more than a few times. But, with a little patience, she usually reappeared.

There was also a lovely little Goldcrest busily looking for food on one of the big oak trees. It often moves about quickly, seldom staying still for long, so most of my photos were out of focus. But, when it dropped down to the base of the tree, I got lucky. I love it's yellow and black stripes on the top of its head.

At the end of our first day, as we were driving out along the track again, we spotted this Heron near to the road in the late afternoon light. It may be a common species for us to see, but it was great having such a close view. The colouration and markings of its feathers are intriguing. I love the grey streaks you can see descending below the head and bill. It's almost like a funky tie dangling down.

On our second day, we went for a longer walk in the other direction from the car park to one of the further hides. For me, the highlight of the day, and the whole weekend, was seeing a Brown Hare suddenly emerge from the reedbed onto the frozen water and attempt to cross it. There wasn't much time to grab a few photos, and sadly it was moving away from us, so its head was in shadow. But, it was a special rare moment to witness.

It slipped around a few times, as it struggled to navigate the slippery surface whilst trying to move across the ice swiftly. I love this next photo, with its hind legs in front of its forelegs and about to bound forward again. It's an unusual photo, capturing that moment between leaps. I also like how you can easily appreciate how much longer and more powerful the hindlegs are.

It took several leaps into the air before it was hidden amongst the reeds again.

It was a truly memorable moment, which was over in a matter of seconds. I was just lucky that I happened to glance over in its direction at the time it made its dash across the frozen pool.

Towards the end of the month was the Big Garden Birdwatch. I was keen to do it despite the poor weather, as we've had a good number of birds visiting the feeders of late. We had a reasonable turnout of the usual garden birds, though the Goldfinches were being evasive suddenly. Then, we had a great surprise visitor, when a lovely Green Woodpecker showed up and perched in the tree overlooking the garden. It stayed for a while, so I was able to go upstairs and take a photo from one of the bedroom windows. For a while, this was the highlight of the hour, but it was trumped by something far more impressive...

...a Sparrowhawk!

I couldn't believe it! This magnificent bird of prey swooped in and took out a poor Dunnock, sending all the other birds away in a flash. I'm glad I didn't see it. It was Bob that noticed it fly in and then perch on the post at the back of the garden with its quarry. Whilst I appreciate it's the cycle of life, I couldn't help feeling a little bit sorry for the unsuspecting Dunnock that had made it onto our count before then. But, equally, I was thrilled to see the Sparrowhawk up close, because this was the first time I was able to photograph it in close proximity. They're either usually far away or I don't have my camera when I see it closer. Ironically, just that afternoon we'd been for a stroll around the fields behind the house in the hopes of seeing one, but to no avail. I lugged my camera and long lens all the way around for nothing. I needn't have bothered, since it came to us in the garden!

Unfortunately, the foliage in the garden prevented clear views of it. I tried photographing it from the kitchen window as well as the bedroom upstairs. The light was very poor! But, I'm thrilled to finally have some nice photos of a Sparrowhawk and very grateful.

It remained in place for quite some time as it plucked the feathers of the Dunnock. In this next photo, if you look closely, you can see a few feathers in its beak.

This is my favourite one of the set.

What a stunning bird of prey it is. Wintertime can be a great time for seeing these creatures. I've had more views this past month out around the fields where we live than before, so it really has been quite a treat to witness.

Bob and I managed to spend the last weekend of the month in West Sussex. We visited some of the heathlands I've only been to a couple of times previously (for walks rather than for photography). We saw Roe Deer on both occasions, though sadly one was being pursued by two dogs off the lead. Whilst it might have been under stress being pursued quite relentlessly, it was light of foot and evaded the noisy dogs that were barking their way around the common.

On both days we saw some Crossbills, but they were high up in the trees and didn't afford us great views compared to our amazing encounter last month in Ashdown Forest. We were also treated to the sound of the Woodlark singing whilst hovering high above us. It's not a species I've come across many times before, so when we were lucky enough to have a very close view of one perched in a tree not far from us, I was very pleased.

The highlight of the weekend and probably the month, despite being thrilled to see the Sparrowhawk, was finally having some wonderful moments photographing some Dartford Warblers. It's a species I've only previously had fleeting views of. I've never managed to get great shots as they're so often hiding or only partially in view. I've ventured over to Ashdown Forest several times without any sightings, or brief glimpses. But this time, we got so lucky. There were good numbers at the heaths we visited, which was really encouraging.

This photo is my favourite one. It was taken on the first day of the weekend. There were two Dartford Warblers in one area that were quite often seen on top of the vegetation, which surprised me. This one popped up quite close in front of me and stayed where it was for a few minutes. I couldn't believe my luck. It was gorgeous! The colours are not so vibrant at this time of year, but I still think its a very attractive little bird.

On both days, we saw Dartford Warblers flying around with some Stonechats. The latter often perch on the tops of trees, so I wondered if this gave the Dartford Warblers some confidence to do the same. At one point, there was a male and female Stonechat at the top of two trees close together and the Dartford Warbler was on the top of third tree between them, slightly lower, sandwiched between the two sentinels.

This one has a far more striking red eye ring, which might suggest that it is a male. I do love the way this one has its legs spread apart holding onto the heather. It's a very striking bird, as it poses beautifully in this side profile.

The light was fading fast, but we couldn't tear ourselves away. This was one of my last photos, nicely backlit, clasping the twig. You can even see its long talons comparative to its size. What a way to end the month.

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December 25

Thu, 15 Jan 2026 18:12:03 GMT

WILDLIFE HIGHLIGHTS

This is the first post in a new series I'm starting in which I'll be sharing my wildlife highlights from each month, and some of my memorable experiences out in nature. Mostly, the focus is on my outings locally in Sussex, but sometimes Bob and I venture to nearby counties too. I hope you enjoy reading about my outings and seeing the photos. It's amazing what can be found on your doorstep when you look for it, or take the time to notice what might be right in front of you.

I was going to start this series with January - you know: new year, new start, and all that - but, December turned out to be a great month for us. I had a bit more time off towards the end of the month, so I thought why not start with the highlights at the end of 2025.

Bob and I spend a lot of time walking around the South Downs in East Sussex, as it's so close to home. We can literally walk from our front door and be surrounded by fields within minutes. We know we're very lucky to be in this position. Bob knows 'his patch' very well and I'm starting to appreciate the many gems to be found thoughout the year.

On more than one occasion during the month we chose to walk along part of the Cuckmere River and photograph the Scandinavian Rock Pipits that were very ameanable! The best encounters were usually when I waited for them to come towards me. So, crouching down low, I'd patiently wait. I was very pleased with these first shots when the light was lovely and low.

The hardest part about our walks to the Cuckmere River were the walks back uphill afterwards. However, one time, I forgot about the challenge when I saw something else that distracted me - a stunning female Kestrel hovering overhead and then flying passed us. It always pays to have the camera handy for moments like this, which are usually so fleeting.

In December, Bob was particularly pleased to have located some Brown Hairstreak eggs on some Blackthorn on the Downland of Seaford. Earlier in the summer, he'd seen a few of these lovely butterflies flying around this particular area for the first time ever . They're a rarity in East Sussex. That's what prompted him to go back in December and look for the eggs. It's one thing to find eggs just after seeing a female lay them, but another altogether when you only have a vague idea about where they may be. I was well impressed he found some and equally pleased he showed me when I was back in Seaford for my winter break.

Late in the month, we made a few trips to Ashdown Forest, and our first one was the best as we saw some Crossbills. I can now say I've seen them about half a dozen times, but before this day, I'd only seen them once before, with only a few photos to show for it. On this occasion, there was just one pair. The female is shown below trying to get the seeds out of the pine cone. Her colouration is very different to the male, with more subtle colouring and a hint of yellow that can be seen on the chest.

The male is very striking and you can see why it's called the Crossbill.

I t was wonderful having them come low enough for us to see them feeding. With my long telephoto lens, I was able to get some amazing shots. You can even see the tongue in the right hand photo, squeezing into the tiny groove of the pine cone.

This is my favourite photo of a male with it's beak open and a seed about to be swallowed.

It was a wonderful session watching them and I was thrilled to finally have some decent photos to show for it.

Sometimes, when you can't get out and about, it's worth staying close to home. We enjoyed a few sessions in the garden watching some of our regular visitors, using a bag hide and a tripod near the feeders. The Blue Tit is a regular visitor and a very familiar species for many people. As such, it's often overlooked, but I do love them. They're so small and that distinctive blue head of feathers is beautiful. They usually dart in and out from the feeders very quickly, never really lingering and perhaps wisely so.

We're also lucky to have Greenfinches often visiting too. This female looks like she's keeping an eye on the skies, before making a dash to get some sunflower seeds.

It was the Goldfinches we were most hoping to see in the garden, often descending on the Buddlheia in large groups. That striking red face is unmistakable and makes them easy to identify. I was equally pleased to have some lovely photos of this species too.

One day we headed over to West Rise Marsh to see what local wildlife we could find near Eastbourne. There wasn't much, but two lovely female Reed Buntings saved an otherwise quiet day. We had lovely views of them perching, eating the seeds from the tops of the reeds.

Winter is a great time of year to watch Starling Murmurations, something that Bob hasn't done a huge amount of in the past. On a few occasions, we visited a place our friend Dom had told us about in the north of the county and met up with him too. It was pretty cold, but we were well wrapped up and the warmed mulled wine and biscuits certainly made our waiting more pleasurable. It made a nice change to overlook a lake and be surrounded by trees, rather than a mass of people on the beach at Brighton Pier.

On our first visit, the weather was definitely not great, but what we lacked in the way of colour was more than made up for with activity. The murmuration was stunning and probably one of the best I've ever seen. It was mesmerizing!

On our second visit, the light was gorgeous, but the murmurations weren't quite as good.

I only had my telephoto lens with me, so mostly I only took photos when they were far away. But, one time I zoomed in so I could really get a sense of just how many birds were flying. The numbers kept building as more and more smaller flocks joined the mass over the lake. I think it's the largest number of starlings I've ever seen murmurating. It was so impressive.

Once the starlings went to roost, dropping down into the reedbeds and disappearing from sight and sound, we were treated to a beautiful sunset.

On the final day of the year, we decided to try our luck with the murmurations over Eastbourne Pier. Whilst we've driven past the pier before, this was my first proper visit photographing it, along with the starlings. It can be hit and miss as to whether you're standing in the best location, which we weren't on this occasion. But, we still had a great time.

I think this person had the best view in the house!

What a great end to the year!

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Autumn in Scotland in 2025

Sun, 23 Nov 2025 21:07:33 GMT

This autumn Bob and I returned to the Highands, two years after our last trip to the area. With his son Matt and fiancée Emily now living there, it was a great opportunity to see them, enjoy some wildlife watching and spend time out in nature. The weather forecast for our time away was less than ideal, but we were determined to make the most of our visit, even if that meant wearing waterproofs most days!

We stayed in two different self-catered accommodation in the Aigas Valley near where Matt and Emily live, on the west side of Loch Ness. It was lovely staying somewhere new and very picturesque, especially during the autumn. The only downside about the holiday was that I managed to hurt my back the day before leaving. It was very frustrating, but I didn't want it to ruin the holiday, so I tried to focus more on enjoying the experience of where we were and not worrying too much about the photography. That being said, I did use my camera on the first morning as a little test.

On that first day, and on two subsequent days, we explored Glen Affric. It looked beautiful with the autumn colours (top and below). On every visit, we stopped at Dog Falls, where the picturesque River Affric tumbles and cascades over the rocks. For a stretch, a path runs alongside it, providing us with plenty of opportunities to stop and look out for any Dippers. As luck would have it, I did spot one very early on. It flew across the river to the far side and proceeded to bob up and down, periodically diping its head into the water looking for food. It was wonderful to have some time watching it, and keeping up with it as it worked its way down river. But eventually, it flew off and we lost sight of it. Unfortunately, it was to be our only Dipper sighting the whole time we were in these parts and none of the photos were worth keeping.

Unfortunately, my back was worse after that first morning, so I refrained from using the camera for the rest of the week. Occasionally, I'd borrow Bob's camera if I felt particularly inspired or I'd simply use my phone. The plan was to walk up some mountains in the second week, so it was important to not strain my back as much as possible before then. It would be so disappointing if I couldn't manage to photograph the Mountain Hares and Ptarmigan, which we both wanted to see so much.

The first place we stayed was a fabulous cottage overlooking the River Beauly (which originates from the River Affric). When we arrived, there was a freshly baked loaf of bread to welcome us - a lovely touch! It was our favourite of the three places we stayed and I'm sure we'll be staying there again in the future. We ate our meals overlooking this wonderful view each day, and one day the late afternoon sun cast a soft warm light over the valley. It was beautiful.

After a few days of cloudier weather, it was lovely to see the sunshine. After our day out, we walked down to the river just below our cottage and enjoyed the stillness and lovely reflections.

It was great being able to spend some evenings during our stay with Matt and Emily. He also had a day off whilst we were there, so he took us to a fabulous remote spot, Strathconon. Located in the Highlands north of where we were staying, we went there to look for birds of prey. We were lucky enough to see a couple of Golden Eagles high up overhead and later, further on, a White Tailed Eagle too.

The following day, we drove to Dores so we could visit Loch Ness.

Aside from taking the obligatory photos of the loch, we walked along the beach and enjoyed a nice long woodland walk at Tor Point. There were several fungi to see and try to identify - with varying degrees of success! The Yellow Staghorn was one of my favourites.

From Dores, we followed the road south along the east side of Loch Ness towards Falls of Foyers. We parked the car there and walked down to the waterfall. It was somewhat disappointing, with a distinct lack of water plummeting from its heights. This was the furthest I'd driven along this side, so I was glad we ventured further. The road travelled inland, and higher, the further south we went. Eventually, it brought us to the Suidhe Viewpoint, which I'd heard was one worth stopping for. This stop didn't disappoint.

To one side of the road was this stunning rugged landscape. Using my binoculars, I was able to spot some Red Deer roaming the slopes. However, our walk took us in the other direction.

There was a path for us to follow, heading west. The other people ahead of us stopped at the first lookout overlooking Loch Tarff and didn't venture any further. We decided to keep walking and I'm so glad we did, as it was worth the effort. The view was stunning. This photo doesn't really do it justice because the sun was facing us and I only used my phone.

Loch Tarff is about 300m above sea level. Beyond the loch and the dark mountains the other side of it was Loch Ness. However, you can't see it because it's a 250m-drop down below.

Bob took this one of me sitting at Suidhe Viewpoint.

The following day we enjoyed visiting the Aigas Field Centre, which Emily was able to arrange for us (she used to work there). Two very knowledgable guides showed us around and talked about the running of the centre and the history behind it. One of the highlights was being able to see a Wildcat from a hide that overlooked an enclosure. The centre is part of a breeding programme to help boost the wild population, which is great news since there are so few pure Wildcats left in the wild. Some estimates suggest the number is between 100 and 300, but others think it could be less than 50, because of hybridization with domestic cats.

The male we saw (below) is no longer a part of that programme as he's too old. However, he did a good job acting as ambassador for the species, giving us wonderful opportunities to see it move about.

Since the weather was wet mostly, we ended up spending the majority of the day sitting in a hide watching birds and mammals. We were wearing plenty of layers, had our lunch with us and hot drinks to keep us warm, we were pretty comfortable and happy. I decided it was a good opportunity to use my camera again, whilst sitting down, and see how my back would manage. As it was, not too badly. Funnily enough, when I was busy photographing the wildlife I didn't notice any pain or discomfort. That came later! But, it was worth it. I loved our day in the hide.

Aside from the usual birds coming in to the feeders, such as Coal Tits, Blue Tits, Great Tits and Chaffinch, we also saw a Siskin and Great Spotted Woodpecker. I was particularly thrilled to see this Bank Vole, scurrying around under the feeders, darting off at the slightest hint of a predator.

Of course, it was the Red Squirrels I was eager to see and they didn't disappoint. We didn't have to wait long before the first one appeared on top of the dry stone wall. It reappeared regularly along with two others. This one was a juvenile (no ear tufts).

One time, I spotted another maturer squirrel - you can see the longer ear tufts clearly - as it scampered down a thin branch further away. There's something about this photo I really love. It's the drooping branches and the lichen covering some of them, which creates a really unusual scene.

There's definitely a hierarchy amongst the squirrels and the older one (right) was often chasing off the younger ones. The tree next to our hide was a popular one for this. They moved with lightening speed up, down and around the tree. Then all of a sudden they stopped. Quickly, I took a few photos before they disappeared from view again. Another time, I was lucky enough to capture the action on video, when two were on a tree a little further away from the hide.

Whilst it was raining where we were that day, it was snowing higher up. On the following afternoon, we were able to see the snow-capped mountains above Glen Affric whilst enjoying a lovely walk on the south side. We had cloud, rain and sunshine and as a result, we saw lots of rainbows. This became a bit of a theme for our holiday.

By this stage in our trip we'd moved to our second accommodation, still in the same general area, but it was a bijou log cabin nestled in a woodland in a quiet remote spot. It was lovely, though a little cramped with all our belongings. The main draw for me was the hope of seeing a Pine Marten, and when we had arrived, we set up our camera traps just in case any wildlife came near.

On the Saturday evening, at the end of our first week, we enjoyed a delicious curry in Inverness with Matt and Emily for his birthday. After dropping them home, we headed back to where we were staying, driving along a narrow winding country road. Suddenly, we spotted a Badger crossing the road right in front of us (a safe distance away). It was a welcome sight that made us both smile.

Later, when we were both fast asleep, in the middle of the night we were both woken by the sound of tiny feet scampering outside. I really hoped it was a Pine Marten. Bob and I lay there quietly listening, really excited about the possibility. It went silent for a short while and then we heard movement again. Bob thought it might even have been a Badger. It was difficult to tell. You can imagine our excitement the next morning when we retrieved the memory cards from the cameras. I put the first one into my laptop and eagerly we opened the files that had caught something on camera. It was a domestic cat! We were so disappointed!

On our final day in this area, we visited the impressive Rogie Falls.

One of the highlights of the day was at the start of the walk, when we spotted a mixed flock of birds right beside the path. There were mainly Coal Tits and Chaffinch busy feeding in the trees, not bothered by us in the least. A few Coal Tits came really close to us, which was amazing. They were eating these rather bizarre looking yellow galls that were sticking up off the leaves. If I hadn't stopped to photograph the birds, I doubt I would have noticed the galls.

Since it was yet another dull and wet day on and off, we crossed over the bridge and decided the best thing to do was take a walk in the forest. We could look for fungi and whatever else we could see. The highlight in terms of the fungi was the Orange Peel Fungus that we spotted quite near the end of the walk. It's the best example of this specific species I've seen before, so I was quite pleased with the find.

I saw more rainbows during this two-week holiday than I've probably seen over the last 20 years! We even saw some complete ones, though they were difficult to photograph.

From the Aigas Valley we headed east to Braemar, on the east side of Cairngorms National Park. But, before we reached our final self-catering accommodation, we detoured to Findhorn Valley, a place I've visited now several times. It used to be a good area to see Mountain Hares, but sadly not so much any more. Undeterred, we wanted to give it a shot. The familiarity of the place made life a bit easier as we knew what to expect. Perhaps a little surprisingly, we spotted someone already up on the slopes on one side of the valley when we arrived. So, we decided to give them space and head up on the other side.

This was my first big test for my back, carrying my camera again and as little else as possible. Just some food for lunch. Taking it nice and slowly was the aim for me, and that seemed to work. It was also necessary as we had to keep looking all around to see if there were any long ears twitching or sticking up. Sadly, we weren't having any luck. In fact, we hardly saw any wildlife at all. We did manage to spot two groups of Red Deer on another slope. They're so nervous of humans, despite the fact we were far away, they all ran in the opposite direction, which wasn't surprising!

After a lunch stop and four hours of searching, we were feeling rather despondent. The person on the other side had left by the time we reached the bottom and we could have given up by then. It was about 3pm and I had wanted to be on the road heading east by then. But, I had the sneaky suspicion the other side might be worth a look. After all, the other person looked as though they'd found at least one hare, if not more. I made the suggestion of trying it and Bob was really pleased because he wanted to look too. I think he hadn't suggested it, in case I wasn't feeling up to it.

So, despite feeling a bit weary and it being quite late in the afternoon, we ventured up. It was just as well we did, as we finally spotted a Mountain Hare. It was nestled in amongst the heather, hunkered down low. The grass was making it difficult to get a clear view of it, but we managed to move around into a better position to take some lovely photographs. We were thrilled, especially as we were able to leave it exactly where we'd found it. If we didn't find any others, we could possibly return this hare again.

But, as luck would have it, we walked over a ridge and on the other side we saw another, even more amenable hare. It was aware of our presence the whole time. At first, it seemed a little restless and it moved a bit, but not far away. But then after a while, it settled down and started to preen itself for quite some time, a sure sign it was not feeling threatened. It was lovely to watch, especially that moment when it suddenly has a shake. I managed to film it, but it wasn't easy keeping the camera still, so apologies for the camera shake!

That final hour made all the difference to our day and we both thoroughly enjoyed it. The only downside was we left Findhorn much later than planned, and were driving to our next accommodation in Braemar in the dark. That meant we couldn't enjoy the lovely drive through the mountains that I'd been looking forward to. But, we'll do it another time, I'm sure.

Our final self-catering cabin was much more modern and reasonably well equipped and spacious, though we did keep hitting our head on the sloped ceiling in the bedroom! But aside from that, it met our needs well and was our base for exploring Glenshee for our last two days. Not only were we hoping to see more Mountain Hares, but also Ptarmigan. We'd last visited the area two years before, virtually to the day, with some pretty horrendous weather back then ( Autumn Tour of Scotland: Part 2 ). It was marginally better this time around, but still quite windy, cloudy and a few wet spells on the first day.

Having survived the previous day without too much trouble with my back, I was semi-optimistic about tackling Glenshee, which was higher - over 900m. However, the walk would be steeper. Any hopes I'd had about taking the ski lift up vanished when we arrived as it wasn't operating. It was too windy. So, once more, I had to take it nice and slowly walk up. It was a tougher walk, but not too bad. Certainly spotting some hares on the way up helped me take my mind off my back and give me a welcome break. The first one I saw hiding amongst the rocks. It takes a while to get your eye in. See if you can spot the hare!

Once we reached the top, we spent more time exploring the leeward side of the peak. I was sure the wildlife would want to be sheltered from the wind as much as I did. We started seeing more hares pretty quickly, but they were also seeing us and running off in the opposite direction. They certainly were more skittish than the two we'd seen the previous day. But Glenshee is a popular walking area in the summer, and ski resort in the winter, so the wildlife must be more wary.

One time I tried to approach a hare on my own, whilst Bob held back. I took it slowly, but all the same, the hare ran away, going up the hill several metres. But then something unexpected happened, it started hopping back down the slope closer towards me. When it stopped, we looked at each other. It was a lovely moment. You can see how it's gradually moulting into its white winter pelage.

Even in this stage when they're mid way through their moult, the hares are still so well camoflaged against the rocks. But when the snow covers the whole landscape, any hares that haven't fullen moulted will stand out and be at risk from the predators that patrol the skies above.

Whilst we were seeing plenty of hares, the Ptarmigan were more elusive. We spent most of our time exploring all the rocky areas, as that would be their hiding spot. But, they were so good at hiding, we didn't usually see them before they heard or saw us coming. That day we only saw one, as its head popped up above the line of rocks. It was a fleeting glance before it took flight and disappeared out of sight. It was disappointing and frustrating. As careful and as quiet as we tried to be, we didn't have succes with them. Oh well! Perhaps we'd have better luck the following day.

The next day, our final full day in Scotland, we had the usual mix of sunshine, rain and rainbows we'd become accustomed to on this trip. For me, the real bonus was the fact the wind had died down, which meant the chairlift was working and taking people up the mountain. After two long days traipsing up mountains, I was eager to take advantage of it. I wanted to make more of the time looking for the wildlife, than walking uphill again. I wouldn't have minded so much if I'd been at full fitness.

As we slowly ascended the mountain in relative luxury, it was interesting to notice where we'd been walking the day before. It looked quite steep, though it hadn't felt like it at the time. Unfortunately, I didn't have my camera at the ready whilst sitting on the lift. We saw a hare sitting right out in the open below us. It would have made quite a nice photo.

Once more, we patrolled the leeward side of the mountain and started seeing the hares fairly quickly, hunkering down when the rain came. But the showers were mostly short lived and followed by sunshine. We were just walking across a set of rocks to approach a hare, when we unintentionally disturbed two Ptarmigan. This time we saw roughly where they landed, so it would give us a better opportunity to find them again.

Thankfully, not only did we find them, but they didn't immediately fly off again. We had a wonderful 20 minutes or so watching them as they sat down in the heather. We stayed in view of them and ever so gradually edged a little closer.

Eventually, when they were ready, they stood up. One started eating for a bit.

Just like the Mountain Hares, the Ptarmigan were starting to moult into their white winter plumage. I'm yet to see a pure white one, but one day I hope to see that, though with the snow, it makes it even harder to spot them.

Shortly afterwards, they flew off and we didn't have another good opportunity to photograph them again.

By this time, we were ready to have something to eat. We stopped to have our lunch at the top of an area of rocks overlooking the valley. There appeared to be quite a few hares hiding amongst these rocks and some scarpered soon after we turned up. However, there was one I spotted that stayed put. Later, when we walked down lower, we also saw a Red Grouse hiding behind a rock near the hare.

After lunch, the hares became our focus once more, since we'd lost sight of the Ptarmigan. There were quite a few in close proximity to each other. In fact, there were three quite close together all showing different stages of moulting. The one on the left has barely started to change colour, and the one closest to it was part way through the moult. But just to the left of them was a third one, almost entirely white.

While I was photographing them and edging a bit closer, Bob patiently waited higher up at first and then started to explore a little around where he was. Unbeknown to him, the two Ptarmigan had been hiding in the rocks nearby, and one flew off when he came close. He tried to spot the second one, but without success. Once I rejoined him, he told me what had happened and together we walked slowly around trying to find the one hiding in the rocks still. We almost missed seeing it, because it was so well camouflaged, but eventually we did.

By then we were ready to call it a day and head back down the mountain. It had been a wonderful day exploring and we were so pleased we'd had better luck with the Ptarmigan. With our goal accomplished we could leave Scotland happy.

The next day we had the long drive south, as far as WWT Martin Mere - our usual mid-way stop. But, before embarking on that journey, we decided to take advantage of the nice sunny morning and enjoy a walk along the river just outside Braemar. It was a very scenic spot near the old stone bridge and we were eager to see if we could spot some Dippers, having not seen any since the first day.

Finally we were lucky! We saw at least 3 Dippers over several hours. I even saw two flying together at one time, which was wonderful to see and they both briefly landed on posts on the other side of the river. Sadly, I struggled to get a decent close up photo of any of them, but was happy to see these lovely birds. I also saw a Kingfisher fly up into a tree, but I didn't have my camera with me at that point. With Red Grouse calling out on the hills nearby, tucked away in the Heather, some Red Deer grazing on another slope above us, and a Golden Eagle fly-by once, we really enjoyed our final morning before leaving.

We allowed some time to explore Martin Mere the following day and ended up staying longer than anticipated. It certainly was more appealing than being stuck in traffic. Just like during the rest of our trip, the weather was a bit mixed, but brightened up for a while towards the latter part of the day.

I was pleased to have a nice view of a Cattle Egret and a couple of Kestrels perched on the post really close to our hide, which was lovely. There were Marsh Harriers flying overhead and we even saw a Bittern in the rain, walking into the reeds. No one in the hide had even noticed it crossing the field from one area of reeds to the other. It was only at the last moment we spotted it. Probably the most frustrating part of that day was seeing a Stoat moving about near the gates a short distance in front of the hide. I saw it, which was wonderful, but I didn't have a seat/window spot to photograph it at that stage, so it's just a fleeting memory. Bob missed seeing it altogether, which was a real shame. Hopefully next time we're there we'll have more luck with the Stoat.

Despite having a bad back for most of the holiday, I didn't want to let it ruin things for our time up in Scotland. Even though I took far fewer photos, which actually was a good thing as it meant fewer photos to sort afterwards, I was still able to enjoy all our wonderful walks and admire the picturesque scenery, do some bird watching and take it easy. After all, it was a holiday! Taking it more slowly in the first half of the week certainly meant I was able to do more towards the end of the trip and our three days up the mountains looking for Mountain Hares and Ptarmigan were fabulous! I guess it's not everyone's idea of a holiday, but for Bob and I, we were in our element and loving every minute of it. We always have a wonderful time in Scotland and I know it won't be long before we'll be back up there again. Already, I'm looking forward to when that might be!

To see my favourite photos from the trip click here .

A Day at Minsmere

Sun, 06 Jul 2025 15:20:00 GMT

Bob and I had just experienced a wonderful four days in Norfolk in search of the Swallowtail butterfly , which I'd never seen before, and we decided to head home via RSPB Minsmere in Suffolk. Both of us had only ever been to this reserve once before, many years ago, before we knew each other. That first visit for me was a memorable occasion because it was the first time I saw Eurasian Otters in the wild and my first ever sighting of an Eurasian Bittern. Aside from it being a lovely nature reserve to visit anyway, it was the lure of the bittern that was calling me back. We'd already had two lovely sightings of this shy and elusive waterbird in Norfolk, but I had higher hopes for a better, closer sighting at Minsmere having seen some fabulous photos on social media from a few weeks prior. So, whilst we were sad to be leaving Norfolk, I was eager for the day ahead and what we might see.

Things were off to a great start as we followed the woodland trail to one of the hides and saw a small cluster of people on the path ahead looking up. Someone had spotted a Tawny Owl high up in the trees. There was even a scope set up pointing towards it. The gentleman who owned it kindly invited us to have a look. It was fabulous to see the owl nestled close to the tree trunk and with its eyes shut, having a few winks. They sleep a lot in the daytime since they're mostly nocturnal. After looking through the scope, it was a case of trying to locate it it with my bins and see if I could take a photo. I was pleased with the image I was able to capture. More people came along the path and some people were struggling to spot it. Bob and I both ended up helping others try to locate it. It can be very difficult describing to others which line of trees and branches to follow with their eyes!

We walked to the furthest hide that overlooked the reedbeds. It was from this hide that I'd seen my first bittern, so I was really hoping we would have success again. It meant we'd have to spend several hours patiently waiting for something to happen. Having done a lot of walking over the previous three days, the thought of sitting in a hide for a few hours was actually quite welcome for both of us. It wasn't as if there wasn't anything else to see in the meantime. There were birds on the water and flying around, and dragonflies and damselflies too, seen much closer to us along the smaller channels of water.

I was borrowing Bob's 500mm lens for the day, so I was keen to experiment a bit with it. We had a lot of Marsh Harrier sightings (mostly males), but not especially close. However, I did enjoy photographing some Common Terns that flew closer to the hide at times. They have lovely distinctive red legs and a red beak with a black tip. Terns are such an elegant bird and I've now seen a few different species of them. I particularly like the way they hover over water before diving down and catching their prey - mostly small fish.

Some Bearded Tits were hiding amongst the reeds on one side of the hide, but as before in Norfolk, they seldom came into view. On the few occasions they moved to another area, they were so quick, I could barely tell what they were, let alone take any photographs. But, eventually, a couple of males were seen perching on the reeds in fairly good view. Lovely. They're another favourite bird species of mine which I only saw for the first time a few years ago, closer to home.

Several hours passed without any bittern activity, but I was still hopeful we might at least see one fly across the reeds, like I had the first time. A member of staff said she'd be surprised if we didn't see something within two to three hours of sitting tight. Well, she wasn't wrong! Suddenly, the couple sitting at one end of the hide made us aware - with hushed voices - that a bittern had appeared from within the reeds just below where they were sitting. I couldn't believe it. Of course, everyone in the hide wanted to have a view of this remarkable bird. Bob and I stood on one side of the large window opening and both saw it, within metres of us. It was fabulous to see, but with such powerful lenses on our cameras, taking any photos was going to be tricky. I tried though, only my camera wouldn't focus. Within moments the bittern had retreated back into the reeds. I was so frustrated and disappointed. It turned out my lens was set for a longer focal distance, so Bob quickly changed that. He had a 600mm lens on his camera and I don't think he had much luck either, so ended up putting a 300mm lens on as quickly as possible, just in case it was seen again.

As luck would have it, the bittern did reappear merely a metre or so from where it had been before. It was amazing to see how it stayed close to the reeds and moved so slowly, inching forwards towards the water, placing one long gangly leg forward. Its beautiful brown and cream coloured feathers were beautiful. Gradually, it crept out into the open a little more and lowered its long neck downwards a bit, keeping its eyes on the water for anything moving underneath the surface. I waited with baited breath for the moment it was going to suddenly plunge its head into the water to grab its prey. When it did, it all happened so quickly. Thankfully, I was firing a burst of images so was able to capture the moment when its neck extended into the water.

When it retracted its neck and its head resurfaced from the water, a fish was firmly clamped between its bill.

It even paused for a wonderful moment before it swallowed the fish whole. Fabulous! I never dreamed we'd actually see one this close!

The bittern even reappeared again a little further down, but I let someone else stand in my place and have a moment to enjoy it too. Apparently, this was an adolescent male and it has appeared a few times close to the hide on previous occasions, which was probably why there was a couple staking out that spot in the hide all day. I was just glad they let others see it too and share in the thrill, including a man in a wheelchair. Eventually it retreated from sight and a while later it was seen flying away.

It was a very special experience.

Shortly after that we decided to move on to another hide and see what else there was to see on the nature reserve. Walking back through the woodland once more gave us another view of the Tawny Owl from earlier, which was lovely, only this time it was in a different tree and not so easy to see or photograph.

When we arrived at the Bittern Hide, all the spots on the benches were occupied, so we stood up at first. Thankfully though, we didn't wait long as one couple left and we sat in their place. It was a much taller hide, which gave us some fabulous views of some birds of prey as they were flying around. The Marsh Harriers we'd been seeing before were now much closer occasionally and I was so pleased with the photos I was able to capture, including this male flying towards us. It looks so serious and focused as it's flying.

It's really easy to appreciate the darker wing tips of the males in this photo and its paler head (compared to the female).

I was so lucky that this one hovered virtually in front of us. It turned in such a way that I could see its lovely fanned tail, how its legs were dangling down and those sharp talons ready to grab prey - small birds, mammals and frogs.

It was another really special encounter with a striking bird.

I didn't see quite so many female Marsh Harriers close up, but one was close enough to photograph and you can see how it's more brown coloured. At one point, there was a male and female flying up in the sky close together, circling around each other for a bit. You can just about appreciate how the female is larger than the male, which is above her.

Whilst it was wonderful to have probably my best views of a Marsh Harrier, even this was eclipsed by even better sightings of another bird of prey - a Hobby. In fact, there were two on the wing in the area. It's a species I've only seen fleetingly before and usually some distance away, so I have next to no photos of this species. They're an amazingly fast bird (though not as fast as a Peregrine) and very agile and acrobatic. It amazes me how they can so accurately spot prey and quickly close in on them. I even had the opportunity to witness it. I was tracking one of the Hobbies as it flew down along the channel towards the hide and then saw it turn towards a Four-spotted Chaser. You can just see the dragonfly in the left of the photo below. Notice how one foot of the Hobby has started to lower slightly in readiness to grab its prey.

Bullseye!

Considering those were two successive frames, the gap in time between them is probably about 1/6 second! So, I guess this Hobby was travelling at a speed of about 325km/hr, which apparently isn't even top speed. They are reportedly able to travel just under 360km/hr at top speed. The Peregrine, which is faster still, can apparently reach speeds of nearly 390km/hr when it is diving down. These are pretty phenomenal figures for what can only be considered phenomenal birds of prey.

The Hobby is also known for the fact that it can eat on the wing. Just after it had caught the Four-spotted Chaser, it hovered in the air and started to eat it.

It was wonderful to see it so close to the hide on a couple of fly-bys. The Hobby is a similar size to a Kestrel, which is another familiar bird of prey we see in the UK. In these photos, you can easily see the Hobby's trademark dark "moustache" markings down the side of the face, in contrast to the white of the cheek. For me, it's the underside view that is really stunning, with its dark markings on both the body and the wings.

I can safely say I've had my best ever encounter with a Hobby and this is my favourite photo from the day. What a spectacular bird!

We even saw a bittern from this hide, but it was a distant view in comparison to earlier in the day, so I didn't bother to keep any of those photos. For us, it didn't quite measure up to our earlier experience, but for several people in the hide, they were very happy and justifiably so. It's always a treat to see one as they're so shy, unlike their close relatives the Grey Heron, which is much more commonly seen.

Eventually, we moved on from this hide. With it being so full, it wasn't exactly quiet, which was the only negative aspect of our experience that day.

We headed back to the visitor centre and decided to have a celebratory ice cream sitting outside. We were overlooking the sandbank where the Sand Martins had their nests and were enjoying watching them flying back and forth. A Corvid had its eye on the holes too, and he even tried poking its beak inside one, but thankfully it couldn't get in as the holes were too small for it.

By this time it was late in the afternoon, but we decided we'd stay longer and walk around the nature reserve following the loop trail. We didn't relish the idea of driving home in rush hour traffic. It was much more peaceful and enjoyable taking in the sights and sounds of Minsmere when the majority of visitors had left. It was still warm and sunny and a beautiful evening. There were still a few delights in store for us, including a Muntjac Deer meandering through the vegetation seemingly unaware of us.

There were dragonflies by the pond and butterflies along the footpath and when we reached the sea wall, we noticed the birds flying in from the sea with Sandeels in their beeks. Although there were Black-headed Gulls amongst them, it was the Sandwich Terns that we stopped to photograph. They have a black beak with a yellow tip to the bill. During the breeding season the head is black, but once they start incubating eggs, this changes to a more speckled appearance, which you can actually see in both these photos. Apparently, after the breeding season, it turns to white and that's when they migrate south to Africa.

At one point we followed the boardwalk and we spotted this juvenile bird. Its tail was quite short and if you look closely you can see the extended line at the base of the beak, which provides them with a larger gape than the adults. This is specifically to help with feeding, when they are still dependent on the adults even though they've fledged. I've read it usually disappears within a few weeks to a month of fledging. This one is a Cetti's Warbler, a bird I've often heard but seldom had good views of. However, this youngster was not as elusive as its parents usually are.

We ducked into a few of the hides along the way, but my favourite was the last one. We saw some Black-headed Gulls chicks on the ground. They looked like very scrawny fluffballs, still unable to fly. This one got up, walked around and looked like it was falling down as it almost face-planted the ground. Then suddenly it pooped! This photo just makes me laugh every time I see it!

There was one final treat for us, as we walked through the woods again on our way back to the car park. The Tawny Owl was seen one last time and finally in a lower position closer to the path. The light wasn't even too bad. It was a lovely way for us to end what had been an amazing day and a fabulous break in East Anglia. It's an area we both think of fondly and I know we'll be back to enjoy more of its amazing wildlife in the years to come.

Swallowtails in Norfolk: Part 2

Mon, 30 Jun 2025 07:51:43 GMT

In the first part of this blog post - Swallowtails in Norfolk - I wrote about our first two days spent mostly at Strumpshaw Fen, where I successfully saw my first ever Swallowtail butterfly. Following this, we had two more days exploring the area. I still hoped I'd see more of this beautiful native species at some of the other reserves.

DAY 3

The forecast for this day wasn't great, but at least dry. There wouldn't be much chance of any sunshine until the afternoon, when it would warm up a bit. So, we decided to head to Buxton Heath, on the other side of Norwich. Bob knew it was a good site for the Silver-studded Blue butterfly. It's a species we have in just two locations within Sussex - both of which we've been to. It's a species that thrives on heathland and can be found in good numbers in the right habitat if it's managed well - with grazing or periodic burning in patches.

It turned out the forecast wasn't very accurate. When we arrived, it was already brightening up and our chance of finding roosting butterflies disappeared very quickly. However, it was lovely exploring somewhere new and aside from one other couple and a man working there, we didn't see anyone else for the three hours we were there. We left the car park and headed towards the northern corner of the heath first and in next to no time, Bob spotted one flying. I stopped and looked down and saw there was another right beside me. I used my bins to take a closer look and suddenly noticed there were ants crawling around it. Instantly, I knew this was something special. The butterfly had only just emerged. I quickly took some photos but was having real issues with my camera. I was so disappointed not to get any good photos. The butterfly is out of focus but the ant is sharp!!! Hmmm! Not what I was going for! This close relationship with ants occurs with a few of the blue species of butterfly, such as the Large Blue, Adonis Blue and Chalkhill Blue. It's the first time I've ever seen the ants in attendance of a new emerged butterfly, so I was thrilled at least to have seen it.

Later, I found a sleeping Silver-studded Blue on the Heather - one of the foodplants of the caterpillar. You can tell its sleeping because its antennae are positioned close together.

I was amazed by how many of these lovely small blue butterflies we were seeing. They even outnumbered the Small Tortoiseshells from the day before, and that was saying something. With that many on the wing and certainly quite a few fresh specimens - we figured many had emerged that day - it wasn't surprising that we finally saw a pair mating. You can see how fresh the female is on the left and how worn the male is on the right.

This is not the world's best photo of a butterfly. For one thing, there's a blade of grass obstructing the butterfly's eyes. But the interesting thing about this photo is actually the fact she's egg-laying. You can clearly see what I can only assume is her ovipositor, which she uses for laying her eggs. It's the thin tube like structure that is protruding from her abdomen. I tried to spot the eggs after she'd moved on, but without success - annoyingly, I didn't have my glasses with me. It was amazing to actually see the ovipositor. I've never had such a clear view of one before.

There were so many butterflies flying around, there were times I felt a little overwhelmed, not sure which ones to try and photograph. Either they weren't very fresh, or simply didn't settle, or when they did, there was too much vegetation around them that was distracting or the light wasn't in the right place. However, I did manage to have some luck towards the end when I spotted a lovely fairly fresh looking female that had some blue on her upperwings.

The star of the afternoon though, was this beautiful fresh looking male that posed so nicely on the fern. Gorgeous!

The other highlight was managing to creep closer to a Yellowhammer that was perched on an old branch. It was calling and showing its beautiful colours very nicely.

In the afternoon, I was keen for us to go to another nature reserve where there was another chance for seeing some more Swallowtails. We made our way to Wheatfen, which is on the other side of the River Yare opposite Strumpshaw Fen. There was a helpful warden at the entrance to give us some tips about the reserve and a noticeboard with all the recent sightings. We noticed there hadn't been any Swallowtail sightings for a few days, but then again, there'd been some really foul weather at the end of the previous week and on the weekend, so that wasn't surprising. With low expectations we went for a walk and almost immediately came across this fabulous Norfolk Hawker resting in the sunshine on a thick reed right beside the path. It was amazing to have such a lovely clear view of it.

We had a wonderful few hours walking around the reserve along the various channels of water, alongside the reedbeds, once again hardly seeing another soul. There were plenty of other dragonflies and damselflies seen along the way and butterflies too. There were more male Scarce Chasers, and this time we could see that they had mated already. You can see the smudge marks made by a female when she wrapped her legs around the male's abdomen during mating.

There was a pair of Red-eyed Damselflies mating on the Lily pad that was quite tricky to photograph. We had to be careful not to fall into the water! The red eyes on the otherwise blue-coloured male are so striking.

Plus, there was another pair near them in tandem, and the female (which doesn't have the red eyes) was dipping her abdomen into the water to egg-lay.

Shortly after photographing the Red-eyed Damselflies, Bob spotted a deer - most likely a Chinese Water Deer - crossing the path where we'd just walked. I turned around in time to see it's back-end only. But, a little later, we walked along a path in the direction where it had disappeared to, and we heard the rustling of something large right beside the path. It was evidently spooked by us and moved further away, but only by a few metres. However, we didn't see it again. It remained obscured by the tall reeds.

As it had been dry, we were able to detour and take the Summer Path. I loved it. We were right amongst the reeds at a lower level. We were much closer to the wildlife. We saw quite a few more insects including a Reed Dagger Moth caterpillar and a more hairy one, the Ruby Tiger Moth caterpillar.

A few times along the walk we heard a Cuckoo calling in the distance, but soon after rejoining the main path we heard it much nearer. It was then that we spotted it perched high up on top of a dead tree. I've not seen them many times, so it was lovely having the opportunity to appreciate it looking through the bins.

We then headed off in another direction and spotted another mammal, but this time something far more interesting than a deer - an otter! However, once again, I only saw the back-end of it as it slinked away into the reeds. It was a shame not to have a better view of it, but it was lovely to see all the same. We had hoped to sit down quiety on one of the benches, which we'd been told can be a good for seeing otters, but once again, a male Swan guarding his young prevented us from reaching the spot.

When we thought we wouldn't see any more, in the final 30 minutes we were treated to sightings of about four different mating pairs of Scarce Chasers. The end of the day was obviously the time for activity. We weren't able to photograph the first few pairs we saw, as they flew too far away from us. But, luckily the last two pairs landed in a better position and I was pleased to have some nice photos. You can see how the female wraps her legs around the male and how he attaches his abdomen to the back of her head using special claspers, whilst they're mating. To complete the mating 'wheel' the female positions her abdomen forward under the male to meet the male's secondary genitalia. What a way to end the day! For them, and for us!

DAY 4

Throughout our stay in Freethorpe we'd enjoyed our breakfasts out on the balcony that overlooked the garden at our accommodation, and sometimes in the evening too, watching the Swifts and House Martins fly over. Plus, we had a very active diligent pair of Great Tit adults that were coming and going frequently from a nest they'd built under the eaves of our roof. There was a tree positioned right beside the building, which was great for them, as they could remain largely hidden from prey and draw as little attention as possible to their nest. We really hoped we'd see their offspring fledgling, but unfortunately it didn't occur before we left. It reminded me of our time up on the Isle of Mull last year at about the same time of year, as we did have luck that time and saw the fledgling Great Tits then.

It was our final day in Norfolk and we decided to spend it at Hickling Broad Nature Reserve, another potential site for seeing Swallowtails. It was due to be a lovely warm sunny day. We arrived early before the visitor centre opened, but we still had access to the reserve. We planned a short walk around the reedbeds first. I was just trying to get through the gate when Bob said there was a Swallowtail the other side. Two men with watching it. More eager to get through the gate, but still struggling to open it, I was getting frustrated. It took me a few frantic seconds to realise I had to push the lever away from me rather than across, which I was more used to. However, there was no need for me to rush as the butterfly was happily nectaring on some Bramble and sticking around for a while.

It then flew over the tops of the trees around us and went into the open garden area beside the visitor centre. By this time we'd been joined by a few other enthusiasts. We were all hoping the butterfly would nectar a bit lower, but mostly it stayed higher. Plus, when it was constantly moving, we had the same problem photographing them as we'd had at Strumpshaw, so I didn't keep many photos. But we were encouraged by the good beginning and the fact one of the other people told us two other spots good for seeing them, which was kind of her.

We headed off to the boardwalk in search of some more to photograph and along the way we spotted this lovely juvenile Reed Bunting. At this stage it more closely resembles the female. The juvenile is smaller than an adult and it has a shorter tail. You can also see the creamy little line that extends from the base of the beak that's very much apparent when they open wide for their parents to feed them.

We spotted two more Swallowtails near the hide. It was lovely watching them nectar and move about. One was definitely in better shape than the other. They were on the move quite a bit and often times on the far side of the Brambles. But one time, the slightly tattier of the two flew high up above our heads to nectar and I was able to get quite a nice underwing shot.

From inside the hide, I spotted this female Four-spotted Chaser. It was only when I went back outside that I was able to capture the second image.

Eventually, we continued around the boardwalk, enjoying the many dragonflies that were on the wing, and came back full circle to the visitor centre. We didn't stay there long because there was a mass of people loitering around and chatting noisily - a large group had just arrived. Swiftly, we diverted through the woodlands to another area of Bramble that was good for Swallowtails and saw a few more. But it wasn't long before the noise followed us as they were being led around the nature reserve. So, in the end, we decided to go back in the opposite direction to get as far away from them as possible. Only once, a bit later, did we pass them again, so it didn't ruin our morning too much, and we did discover they were only there for the morning at least, so we could enjoy the rest of the day in peace and quiet. You can't hear things when people are talking and if you're not quiet you often scare things off, which is why we like it when we're on our own.

At lunchtime, we found a bench to sit on overlooking the broad. It was lovely - peaceful and relaxing. A Black-tailed Skimmer periodically perched near us, Norfolk Hawkers were flying around over the reeds and we even saw a Swallowtail fly overhead and land on one of the reeds. Then all of a sudden, Bob spotted a Bittern flying across the water. His camera wasn't handy, but I was able to grab a few shots. However, since it was heading to the reedbeds too far away, it's not a great photo. Nonetheless, I was thrilled we had another Bittern sighting. Hopefully, we'd get lucky at RSPB Minsmere too, on our way home.

Before we moved on, we heard the call of some Chiffchaffs above us. There was a juvenile being fed by its parent. In fact, we saw another younger fluffier looking fledgling Chiffchaff a little further along the path too.

Like the day before, we ended up detouring off the main path and taking another reedbed path that you can walk along in the summer months when it's dry. No one else was walking along it and mostly we were silent, observing everything that was around us and listening to the sound of the birds calling. We saw some Long-tailed Tits and some Great Tits also feeding some fledglings. We were lucky enough to see another Swallowtail fly across the reeds and a smile spread across my face. This was what I'd imagined, being able to walk around the nature reserve and see more than just one of these elegant beauties flapping and gliding through the air. We'd already surpassed the number of Swallowtails we'd seen previously and since they'd been a bit more elusive at the other sites, it was wonderful to have so many different encounters at Hickling Broad.

As an aside, the Swallowtail is the largest of our butterflies with a wingspan of 76-93mm - with the females being larger than the males. This is just a bit larger than the Purple Emperor butterfly (70-92mm), which is our second largest native species.

After rejoining the main path and passing another hide, Bob spotted a Swallowtail on the ground. It flew up as soon as we approached and rested on a tree in a lovely sheltered area. By the afternoon, the wind had started to pick up and was into double figures, but with gusts above 20mph. It stayed loyal to this area for quite some time. It would rest and bask in the sunshine for long periods before flying off again and nectaring. But, it always came back to the same few favourite perches.

Unlike many other species of butterfly, it was virtually impossible to see - let alone photograph - the Swallowtail with its wings closed. This was the closest I came to it. It perched slightly lower down and started to close up its wings a little, but not all the way. I moved further along the path and used my telephoto lens to zoom in on it.

Then suddenly, a second one appeared on the scene and it wasn't long before a tussle broke out between them as they both took to the air. It was a mass of legs and wings as they tumbled and turned, moving quite quickly and disappearing out of sight for a while, and then back into view. It happened more than once. Soon after, they both were seen nectaring, recouping their energy. As the male and females look very similar but the females are much larger, it was hard to tell if they were both males or one of each sex. However, I'm guessing it was two males defending territory, though I could be wrong!

It was amazing to witness and I really enjoyed the 30 minutes we spent watching them. It was difficult to move on, but eventually we did. In fact, the opportunity to sit down in a hide afterwards was very appealing. There wasn't a great deal to see in the small pool of water, but all of a sudden, a male Marsh Harrier rose out of the reedbed nearby. It was fabulous to have a brief view of it as it flew off.

By this point we were starting to tire and wilt and decided the best thing for it was to celebrate our day with a lovely cold ice cream.

After a little down time, we decided to have one last walk, firstly to where we'd seen our first sighting of the day and then through the woods to the Brambles. It would be lovely to have one final last sighting of a Swallowtail. I can't remember where it was on our route that I saw this newly emerged, teneral Blue-tailed Damselfly. But the colour of its wings were remarkable. I think they were still moist and that they were reflecting the blue sky above. The tenerals can't fly until their wings have dried out and hardened. It looks like it's a female and possibly even the rufescens-obsoleta form - they have orange-pink sides to the thorax that become pale brown, plus the S8 segment near the end of the abdomen will become a dull brown when it matures.

As we slowly meandered along the alleyway of Brambles at the end of the woodland, we saw a few more Swallowtails nectaring and flying around. However, with the sun now in a different position than the morning, they were mostly on the other side where we couldn't easily see or photograph them. I was just thinking how we needed them to nectar on our left side, which was still in the sun, but also a bit lower and more accessible. Then, a shortwhile later, that's exactly what happened. There was one really lovely looking one that was working its way all the way along the Brambles. We 'filled our boots' as Bob would say! For about half an hour we enjoy this last spurt of energy before deciding we were ready to call it a day. But, what a way to end the day, having seen a total of at least 12 different Swallowtails.

That evening we went out for dinner to celebrate the success of our trip and me having now seen all the UK species of butterfly (excluding Cryptic Wood White) . We went to a small pub situated alongside one of the waterways within the Norfolk Broads. It wasn't especially fancy, but the food was great. After dinner, we sat outside with our drinks, watching the sun go down and all the Hirundines and Swifts were flying around. It was the perfect end to our latest adventure. Although my first sighting hadn't been quite as I'd imagined, as the days passed, with each new Swallowtail encounter, things improved and we definitely did save the best for last.

When I think back on all the places around the UK I've visited as part of this quest to see all our butterflies, I'm grateful to have had the opportunity to explore the UK more. It's reminded me how we have such varied habitats, beautiful landscapes and wonderful wildlife. We often think about our bigger, more iconic species when we think of British wildlife, but that excludes the vast majority of animal life in this country. Insects are often overlooked and taken for granted. The small creatures that go unnoticed, that exist under the average person's radar, are vitally important for healthy ecosystems and this world would be drastically different without them.

Like many people, I'm concerned about the future because we are experiencing declining numbers of insects, not just in the UK but on a massive global level (due to loss and fragmentation of habitats, use of pesticides and climate change). This will have a knock-on affect in many ways, even within human agriculture. Insects are essential for pollinating crops, controlling pests and contributing to soil health. Insects are a food source for other creatures such as hedgehogs, voles, moles, badgers and birds. If insect numbers continue to plummet, so too will the other species higher up the food chain.

I hope that by sharing my experience as I've gone in search of our beautiful butterflies, you've enjoyed learning and appreciating more yourself. Hopefully, next time you're outdoors and you happen to see a butterfly flit past you, you'll take a few moments to really watch it. Can you identify it? If not, why not try and find out what it is.

Once we start noticing more, we start appreciating more. So many people are disconnected from nature. It's easy to get caught up in our own lives with tunnel vision and forget we are actually a very tiny part in a much bigger picture - an intricate web of lives that co-exists on this planet. We can't keep squeezing nature out of our thinking and planning. The planet provides us with everything we need and yet we are destroying so much of it. I believe it's important to remember, the earth is our home and we could all do a better job of taking care of it in whatever ways we can.

On our way home from Norfolk we stopped off at RSPB Minsmere in Suffolk . It turned out to be a very special day there too, and you can read about it here.

Swallowtails in Norfolk: Part 1

Sun, 29 Jun 2025 18:36:29 GMT

When Bob and I returned from Kent, having just seen the Heath Fritillary , we looked at the weather for the following week and we saw that it was looking very changeable every day, with cool windy and/or wet weather forecast. The Swallowtail butterfly ( Papilio machaon ) is our largest native species found in the UK and Bob informed me they won't be flying if the conditions aren't good. They like the warmth! Now was not a good time for our hot spell to be over! With only one more week of my break from teaching left, we had little choice but to arrange our visit for then, regardless of the weather. I booked some accommodation for us and we figured that if we went for more than a couple of days, we were bound to have at least one fairly decent opportunity to see the final species on my UK list that I'd not seen before.

DAY 1

As usual for us, we set off fairly early in the morning since we had over a three-hour drive ahead of us. The plan was to stop at Weeting Heath Nature Reserve, just inside the Norfolk border, so we could break up the drive and enjoy some time out in nature. The main purpose was to see the Stone Curlew that breed at this site ( Burhinus oedicnemus ). They're a rare summer visitor to the UK and I'd not heard of this species before. They're not in any way related to the Curlew ( Numenius arquata ), which I have seen before - though they are also quite rare and endangered. Their name relates to their similar call.

We sat in two different hides during the course of the late morning and early afternoon and for quite some time we didn't think we were going to get lucky and see the Stone Curlew - though we did see a couple of Curlews. At one point I nipped back to the car, and of course that was when Bob saw one! It was on the far side of the field we were overlooking, but where the ground dipped lower out of sight. He saw it just as I was returning to the hide. So, I quickly sat down and looked for it, but I didn't get a chance to properly see it. We decided to stay a bit longer, and so this time Bob left the hide to fetch our lunch, and that was when the Stone Curlew reappeared. It even flew a short distance, quite low, as it apparently had a nest nearby and it wasn't happy about the Rooks that were too close for comfort.

Don't hold your breath - the photo is pants! The bird was so far away and it was more of a record shot. However, I did enjoy watching it through my binoculars.

After watching the Stone Curlew for a while, we decided to go for a short walk in the nature reserve. It was good to stretch our legs and we enjoyed seeing a few interesting things, like a couple of Hares, seven different species of butterly, a Coal Tit clearly on its way to feed some young somewhere (photo) and a Woodlark calling and flying up above the heath fairly close to us. When we were back in the car and about to pull onto the road, a Yellow Shell Moth suddenly flew in through the open window and rested on the back of the seat. Not wanting to relocate it to somewhere miles away, Bob was able to carefully catch it in his hands and release it back outside.

We reached our accommodation in Freethorpe - a lovely garden loft conversion - and unloaded the car. Since it wasn't too late in the evening and it was fairly warm and sunny, we decided to make the most of the favourable weather and do a reccie at RSPB Strumpshaw Fen. It's known to be a reliable site for seeing the Swallowtail and we'd planned a full day there the next day. The nature reserve was only 10 minutes from where we were staying, which was perfect for us. In next to no time, we were walking down the lane alongside the reserve to the area where Bob had seen some Swallowtails in previous years. Unfortunately, we didn't spot any, but we did see a few dragonflies and a couple of caterpillars.

You can probably guess which one of the photos is the 'Woolly Bear' (Garden Tiger Moth). It's long whitish hairs were amazing. I don't think I've seen a caterpillar quite so hairy before!

The other caterpillar is the Orange-tip. You can see this one has already had a good munch out of the side of the leaf.

From the lane, we were able to access the nature reserve close to the boardwalk, which is another good area you can see the Swallowtails. Again, we had no joy. But, nearby we did see some recently fledged Sedge Warblers in the reeds, which was a lovely extra treat. We would've carried on walking further into the reserve along the path, but a male Swan had other ideas. The female had a brood of signets semi-hiding underneath her and I know the males can become very aggressive. At first, its wings just slightly raised up from its body. Then it turned to face us and started to walk towards us and within seconds it was moving more quickly, chasing us away with its wings almost fully up. It was very intimidating! As you can imagine we were already retreating by this point. It would've made for a great photo, but funnily enough I had other things on my mind - like safely moving away!

We headed back to the visitor centre and to a deck that overlooks an open area of water surrounded by reedbeds. For a while we perused the scene before us, but didn't see anything of note. Behind us, near the entrance, a woman was crouching down low photographing something in a small circular garden section. I was curious and wondered if there was a Swallowtail there, but she had a fancy set up and was spending a long time photographing something, so I left her to it, not really wanting to invade her space and her find. However, after a while, when another couple turned up, it soon became apparent that was exactly what she was photographing.

Bob and I walked over. I stood to one side of the woman, happy that I was seeing my first Swallowtail, but keeping it very much to myself. Eventually, she stepped back and the few of us there tried to take a few photos, but it was a bit flighty and moving around quite a bit, nectaring on the purple Dame's-violet, so it wasn't easy. This is one of my favourite shots. I love the orange-red spots at the base of the hindwings and the lovely dusting of blue. It really is a beautiful butterfly.

I was pleased to get an underwing view of it too. It was a challenge capturing images that didn't have wooden posts and rope in the background. We only had about five minutes with it. Then, before we knew it, the beautiful butterfly flew up and headed over to the reedbeds. I went back to the deck and saw where it went down. It was quite low, but still visible. That would be it for the evening. It was six o'clock and it would most likely crawl down lower for the night.

Bob came over to where I was standing and asked if I felt a bit flat. I did. I didn't feel the elation I thought I would upon seeing my first Swallowtail. There was no thrill in seeing it. I was struggling to feel the joy in the moment, even though I did pause and try and appreciate it. The problem was, there'd been no challenge in trying to find it - I prefer it when we can find things for ourselves - plus, it wasn't exactly in a natural setting. To be honest, it felt like an anticlimax! I didn't think I had any decent photos either. But, the pressure was at least off. At that point though, I didn't feel any sense of wanting to celebrate the acheivement of seeing all the UK species of butterfly.

DAY 2

We returned to the garden by the visitor centre the following morning before opening time. We started chatting to another couple for a while who were also hoping to see the Swallowtail, whilst standing around the small circular garden plot. Time went by and there was no sign of the Swallowtail coming back there. I'd already checked out the reedbeds where I'd seen it go down the night before, but there was no sign of it there either. Only a little while later did I walk over towards some tall wildflowers to one side near a small pond (more of the Dame's-violet). We made a joke - wouldn't it be funny if there was a Swallowtail over there all this time, whilst we'd been chatting. Guess what? There was, and I found it! That at least felt a bit better and I enjoyed taking some more photos.

It took me a while before I realised that it wasn't quite so perfect, as there was a small area of damage to the hindwing, by the red spots. This wasn't the same one we'd seen the night before.

But, as luck would have it, a second one turned up to nectar on the flowers and this was very likely the one we'd seen the previous night.

I love this side on view of the butterfly as you can appreciate the amazing yellow abdomen with it's black stripes, matching the pattern of the underwings a bit.

Because the butterfly is so large, it's actually quite difficult to get all of the wings in focus. I was really pleased with this next photo.

Naturally, these two beauties were creating quite a stir. More and more people turned up to the nature reserve and were keen to photograph them. Many people visit the Norfolk Broads in the spring specifically to see the Swallowtail butterfly. It's one of our rarist butterfly species in the UK - sub-species britannicus - and currently only found in the Norfolk Broads. The catepillar feeds on Milk Parsley, but the adults can be seen nectaring on flowers such as Thistles and Ragged-Robin. It is smaller and darker than the continental sub-species gorganus , which occasionally can be seen on the south coast of England.

After a while, the more pristine Swallowtail flew back towards the reedbed, perching in view. There was a little back and forth and as they were constantly moving about nectaring, it was still proving a little challenging to photograph them, or they would sit somewhere less visible. It was quite a full-on 30 minutes watching both of the butterflies, but in the end we were ready to move on. More people were congregating, so we decided to enjoy a walk around the nature reserve.

We went back down the lane first - still no yellow butterflies there - and up to the meadow that had once been a good spot. All we saw was a Muntjac Deer grazing. Whilst he briefly glanced up at us, it was the sound of a train hurtling down the track nearby that sent it running for cover.

We headed back to the boardwalk and we had a fabulous time there. For starters, I saw another Swallowtail fly low over the tops of the reedbed. It was brief, but wonderful to see. Bob gets excited about all sorts of insects, whereas I'm sometimes a bit more selective about what I photograph. But on this occasion, I was pretty impressed with the Golden Barred Grey Longhorn. It's very funky looking and I love the black and white antennae. We saw it a few times during our Norfolk trip.

As we started the boardwalk, we could hear this shrill high pitched squeak, which was clearly the call of a young bird somewhere. Eventually, we spotted a gorgeous tiny little Sedge Warbler chick in amongst the reeds. It kept itself quite well hidden, so I didn't get a great photo, but it was adorable. It was whilst I was looking at some other Sedge Warblers flying around later that I almost disturbed the Common Lizard (photo). It didn't stick around long.

We continued to see more caterpillars, including quite a few Drinker Moth cats.

Naturally, being so close to the water meant we saw a lot of dragonflies over the course of our trip. We were able to photograph the first one because it was resting. It was an immature female Scarce Chaser. She had a beautiful orange abdomen, but as she matures it will develop into an olive-brown colour. One of the distinguishing features that helps to identify this speces is the appearance of darker wingtips, which is much more obvious in this female than the male Scarce Chaser in the next photo. There's just a hint of a darker wingtip in his right forewing. This male hasn't mated yet as there are no marks on its abdomen.

Thankfully, this time the male Swan was not on guard and we were able to pass along the footpath with ease. The family were out on the water and it was wonderful to see the little ones riding on the backs of their parents. There were lots of blades of grass in the way of a clear shot, so I've done a bit of 'spring cleaning' (which I usually try to avoid doing) to create the second image with the four signets getting a free ride. They were simply gorgeous!

We spent some time sitting in the hides in the afternoon, so we weren't walking around all day. It was lovely to spend some time just relaxing and watching the wildlife around us. We stopped at the Fen Hide first and of course there were Mallards swimming around with cute ducklings in tow.

A handful of Northern Lapwings were seen skirting the water's edge in the muddier areas. Occasionally they would fly around, swiftly changing direction every now and then, and calling with their unique squeaky sounding 'pee-wit'. I even spotted a few of their chicks on the far side of the pool.

One time, a Lapwing mobbed a Little Egret. Clearly, it wasn't happy that the egret was close to its young.

There were Marsh Harriers flying over and some nice sightings of a Hobby sitting in a tree some distance away. At one point we even saw two. Sometimes it flew a litlte closer and it was fabulous to see. This is a bird of prey I've usually only ever had fleeting glimpses of, so I was really happy to watch it for a while.

There were Bearded Tits in the reeds nearest to the hide. Bob could hear them better than I could. There was a flash of movement sometimes when they'd fly from one section to the next, but they were impossible to photograph. Likewise, the beautiful familiar flash of blue past us too quickly, when a Kingfisher was on the move a couple of times. Then later, a Common Tern made an appearance.

We often heard the call of the Reed Warbler, but this obliging one actually made an appearance, rather than skulking around amongst the reeds all the time.

When we reached the bank of the River Yare we turned left to follow the footpath along that way for a while. We saw a handful of dragonflies and quite a few clusters of Peacock butterfly caterpillars that will be dominating that stretch of the reserve soon. But, in some ways, the stars of the day were the Small Tortoiseshells that were abundant all along the bank. I don't think I've ever seen so many. They were making good use of all the Bramble beside the river. Virtually ever few steps we made, more took to the wing.

We then headed in the opposite directon, heading towards the Tower Hide. However, we were side-tracked for a while. We spotted a female Blue-tailed Damselfly rufescens - with a lovely pink thorax. There are actually five different coloured forms in this species (female). Both sexes have the two-tone wingspots too, which you can just about see.

It was the Norfolk Hawker that stole our attention for some time. I love their striking green eyes. It was patrolling one of the channels of water and coming fairly close to us periodically. We decided to practice some flying shots and put our new cameras to the test. The newer technology makes it easier to track and keep focus on flying objects potentially, though birds are a great deal easier than dragonflies. I was really pleased with this photo. Funnily enough, Norfolk Hawkers aren't restricted just to Norfolk. A few weeks before Bob and I were photographing this same species in the forest near where we live. But, this was my first time seeing so many flying over the water.

When we'd had enough of that, we moved on to the hide. It was quite good to be higher up and have a good view over the nature reserve. All day I was hoping we'd see or hear a Bittern. It's a species I've really been keen to photograph for a few years. I've only ever seen it twice before - fleeting distance views - and on a third occasion heard. So, you can imagine how thrilled I was when I spotted one lurking amongst the reeds at the edge of the water. They're such a shy waterbird, hiding so much of the time, it really is just pot luck to be at the right place at the right time when one either takes flight or appears from the reedbed to fish. I think this one was only visible for less than a minute and still too far away really, but it was fabulous and I was really happy about it, almost as much as I was about seeing the Swallowtail.

By the end of this full day at Strumpshaw Fen, I was feeling much happier about our Swallowtail sightings. They were perhaps not as numerous at this site as I had imagined, but it was wonderful to have seen my target species so quickly and then to have had more sightings following it. It really is a very beautiful butterfly and I was grateful for the opportunity to see them.

To see how things unfolded on our remaining two days, read on...

Swallowtails in Norfolk: Part 2

In Search of the Heath Fritillary

Sun, 22 Jun 2025 09:21:32 GMT

When Bob and I returned from our Isle of Wight trip to see the Glanville Fritillary for the first time, I was eager for the next challenge - seeing the Heath Fritillary butterfly in Kent. However, the weather wasn't quite ideal and I had to sit tight for another week before there was a good opportunity for us to head over for the day. Thankfully, it was a Friday, which meant there would be fewer people around, which we both prefer as it's more peaceful. It was still very early in the flight season with only a few sightings having been posted on social media, and this meant we might have a good chance of seeing some fresh butterflies, which is always lovely when they look pristine and fresh.

Thankfully, we both don't mind the early starts when there is a good reason for it and it wasn't too ridiculously early on this occasion! It took us just over two hours to reach East Blean Woods car park, after a few detours and delays. We arrived just after 9am and only a few other vehicles were parked there. It was still slightly cool and cloudy, which meant the butterflies wouldn't be too active yet. This was ideal for us, so we could take plenty of photos.

When we began the walk, I felt fairly oprtimistic we'd see some during the day, but I was prepared that we might need to look at various different sites in the area. I didn't expect that within 5 minutes of leaving the car park and having only walked 50 metres, I would spot the first one of the day, roosting on a bracken fern in the cool shade of the woods. It was a lovely fresh specimen and a wonderful start to the day. Within moments of me spotting this one, Bob saw another one roosting nearby. Fabulous!

Needless to say, I was thrilled the pressure was once again off so early on, just like it had been on the Isle of Wight. Plus, Bob knows how much I want to find the butterflies for myself and not have someone else point it out to me. So, I was doubly happy.

This was the last of the Fritillary species of butterfly for me to see in the UK. To be honest, if you'd asked me about five years ago what a fritillary was, I wouldn't have had a clue. The fact we actually have eight different UK species of Fritillary is quite remarkable and I'm guessing the majority of the British population probably haven't seen a single one. The Heath Fritillary is one of the smallest of them. Telling them apart is a lot easier when you have the opportunity to see their undersides. Whilst the Heath Fritillary is very similar looking to the larger Marsh Fritillary, it has darker markings around all the white 'pearls'. There are no spots on the underside compared with the Glanville Fritillary (photo shown next to it) or the other similar small species: Pearl-bordered and Small Pearl-bordered Fritillaries.

Just around the corner from the first butterfly I'd seen, I spotted another one, but with its wings open. It was a male in fabulous condition. You can see it's like many other male butterflies - it has a long slender abdomen. Soon after I saw another lovely one, both posing beautifully for me. Clearly they were warming up, now their wings were open, but thankfully they weren't jittery yet and on the wing.

Once again, I've shown the Glanville Fritillary next to the Heath Fritillary so you can see just how similar to each other they are on the upperwing. The darker sections on the Heath Fritillary are much more dominant, whereas it's the orange colour that is more dominant on the Glanville Fritillary, plus it also has a few block spots on the lower end of the hindwing.

The Heath Fritillary is a rare species and very localised. I'd heard there were good numbers of them most years in this specific part of Kent. Although we hadn't walked very far yet, we'd only seen four individuals so far. It's a species that has been saved from the brink of extinction in England by conservation management. Interestingly, it's name is a bit misleading. In the UK, it can be found in different types of habitat - coppiced woodland (Kent and Essex), sheltered valleys (Exmoor) and abandoned hay meadows (Devon and Cornwall). So maybe it isn't so surprising to discover that the food plant for the caterpillar is different too in each of these areas - it's usually Common Cow-wheat (Kent and Essex), but also Foxglove (Exmoor) or Ribwort Platain and Germander Speedwell (Devon and Cornwall).

As we continued to walk along the footpath, Bob noticed there was a good amount of Common Cow-wheat around us. He commented that he'd love to see the Heath Fritillary caterpillar, having only ever seen it before once. I wondered what the likelihood really was, considering we were looking for the butterflies and I didn't imagine you could see both stages of development at the same time. However, we were early in the season and they do spend the majority of the year as a caterpillar, even into May, so it wasn't an impossibility. Well, I swear, within seconds of us talking about it, he actually spotted one. Then, in next to no time at all, he spotted more and so did I. They're very funky looking with lots of spikes and certainly eye-catching!

By this point, we'd seen more caterpillars than adults. We kept count, and as the morning progressed it became a bit of a fun competition, which we'd see more of. I was championing the adult butterfly and Bob the larvae.

We continue to walk around the woodland, following the paths, but for a while we didn't see any more of the fritillaries, which was a bit concerning. Were they really confined to just the one small area of the wood? Would we see any more? However, there were other creatures of interest, which we stopped to look at and photograph.

Bob noticed a tiny attractive micro moth, which he didn't think he'd seen before. As luck would have it, another moth enthusiast happened to pass by at the same time with his family and he'd seen them earlier. He thought they were Dasycera oliviella , which was confirmed with Obsidentify. Later, I found out online they're also known as Cream-spot Bark Moth and it's a relatively rare species of moth only found in the south and south-east of England. There were quite a few of them on several of the large leaves of one specific Sweet Chestnut tree stump. It seemed as though maybe they'd just emerged, with so many seen together in the one spot. I particularly love the hint of pink colouring you can see in the middle and edge fringing of the wing when you look closely.

By this time, breaks in the cloud meant the sun was shining more and it was beginning to warm up. Everything was starting to become more active, which wasn't good news for us trying to photograph the Heath Fritillary, so we progressed onwards. We were almost going to turn back and go in a different direction towards an area Bob had been before on a previous year, but I suggested we walk a little further to where we could see the path came to an intersection first, just to see what was up ahead.

It was lucky we did, because when we reached that spot, to our left looked more promising and almost immediately we saw more Heath Fritillaries on the bracken along this new path. Along that little stretch we also saw more of the Cream-spot Bark Moth including a mating pair that Bob found. When I looked more closely at the photos later, I really noticed the slightly different colour of them. The one on the right is more black (male) and the one of the left is more brown (female). I'm not sure if this is an example of sexual dimorphism or that one is simply more faded. However, the males have broader antennae than the female, which is why I think the one on the right is the male.

I was really pleased we found some more Heath Fritillaries. As the sun was only shining intermittently, we were lucky to have some good photo opportunities. I guess it's also to our advantage that females are less flighty. This one was posing beautifully.

We didn't have too long though, as it was getting warmer and soon we started seeing the butterflies opening their wings.

Interestingly, once again, we were only seeing the butterflies in a small section. When we continued along the path, we didn't spot any more until we turned onto another path, walking in a different direction. We were in a more shaded section of the woodland and that was when we noticed a lot more caterpillars. We were both finding them as we were trying to count. This meant the number of caterpillars seen was far exceeding the butterflies and I figured I'd never be able to catch up to Bob's number.

Whilst in this shady spot, I noticed another moth and what can only be described as the longest antenna I've ever seen! Not only that, there was a loop in it! Bizarre! I also noticed the left antenna was really short. I presume the moth might have been attacked and lost it that way or something similar. Bob found out it was an Adela croesella , which is also known as the Lesser Banded Longhorn. Only the males have these long antennae.

Further on from this shaded spot we came to an open glade where we saw many more Heath Fritillary. In fact, we spent the majority of our time there. It was fabulous. On one side of the path, there was still a decent amount of shade from the trees, but on the other side, it was brightening up and there was lots more activity. To start with we focused on the cooler side, to photograph what we could find. I particularly loved this male seen from the underside. It was halfway up two blades of grass with its legs outstretched between them.

A short while later, I had even better luck with this male - it might even have been the same one that had just flown to another blade of grass. He was clinging on to a single blade with not much else around him. It was lovely having a clear view of it. I used my macro lens for the first photo. In the second one of the upperwings, I've used my telephoto lens. You can see the nice effect you can create when you do this, as it blurs the background, so there's less distraction behind.

It was wonderful seeing so many butterflies in this one small area. Whilst some were still perched in the shade, others were flying around. I had to count several times, because new ones kept appearing. We must have seen half our total for the day in this one spot, which meant I was catching Bob up on his caterpillar count.

At one point, I stood back in the shade drinking some water and enjoyed watching all the butterflies flitting about. Then I noticed a butterfly land on a branch near me. All the others were closer to the ground. I grabbed a photo, and only later did I realise it was one of the older ones that had been on the wing longer. Notice how the white fringing is virtually non-existent.

I was more surprised when I spotted one had landed on Bob's rucksack. It was probaby drawn to the pink logo.

It's great when you have a good number as you start to see more interactions between the butterflies. As usual, the males were constantly on the lookout for females...

...and as usual, there were more rejections than acceptances. In the next photo it's easy to see how the female has raised her abdomen up in the typical butterfly rejection pose. However, the male was stubborn and hung around for a while before retreating.

One thing that impresses me is how the male is able to bend and twist its abdomen towards the females, trying to encourage her to 'hook up!' You can't see it easily in the last photo, but the male's abdomen is just below the female's. It's a little easier to see in the video. In it, you can also appreciate how there is a lot of competition.

Did you notice the little spider underneath the leaf? It made a quick escape as soon as the third one showed up, dropping down to the ground.

It wasn't surprising that we eventually saw a mating pair. I was really pleased and had been hoping to. I felt sorry for the poor couple who were bombared with the attentions of many others, whilst they were attached to each other.

We saw several females, with their slightly more bulbous abdoman, which is more pointed at the end. The abdomen of the female in the first photo looks larger than the right, which could be an indication that she is closer to being ready to lay her eggs. Females mate within a few hours of emergence and wait several more days before egg laying. They can lay between 80-150 eggs in one mass on the underside of a small Bramble or dead left, close to the foodplant. With this amount of eggs in her body, it isn't surprising to discover that she flies close to the ground and sometimes crawls around in the undergrowth well hidden. She isn't able to travel very far, which is why new colonies don't develop elsewhere. The existing colonies are isolated.

Later, it was lovely having the opportunity to photograph this mating couple in the shade, away from all the commotion in the sunshine. They were undisturbed by other males and left in peace.

By lunchtime we'd had our fill and decided to head back to the car for something to eat. It had been so worthwhile arriving early in the morning, We definitely had the best opportunities photographing the butterflies before it became too warm, when they were then flighty.

Although we had the opportunity to move onto another site, we ended up staying where we were, but going for a bit more of a wander into the other parts of the wood we'd not yet explored. We passed more of the Heath Fritillary caterpillars, but this time they were more in the sunshine and a little easier to photograph.

We checked out the area that Bob had seen some Heath Fritillaries in a previous year, but it was completely overgrown. I suspect from year to year they clear new areas, which help give the food plant the space and light it needs to grow all around the wood. We did see about three more isolated individual butterflies nectaring or flying around as we continued on our walk.

The Heath Fritillary caterpillars weren't the only ones we saw. As we were working our way along a narrow path that was really overgrown, Bob suddenly spotted a Vapourer Moth caterpillar, then a few more. I'll never forget the first time I ever saw one of these little cuties. I was pulled over on the M25 with a flat tyre on my way north to Scotland. There was one crawling along the barrier on the side of the road. This was a much better natural setting to take a few photos! It's not as spikey as the Heath Fritillary, but it does have four impressive yellow brush-like clumps of hairs on its back, and is pretty funky looking too in my book.

You can see how it's munching its way through the leaf.

Eventually, we found our way back to the open glade we'd enjoyed so much earlier. It was still sunny and all the butterflies were as active as ever. I took very few photos second time around. But, I did spot one male basking in the sunshine on a leaf with its wings fully stretched out. It was a lovely last show to end what had been a fabulous day out. In the end we must have seen about 30 adult butterflies, but closer to 40 caterpillars.

Thanks to the work of many dedicated people conserving this area of woodland, hopefully the Heath Fritillary will continue to thrive in this part of Kent, and elsewhere, for future generations to enjoy too.

Now, I'm just left with one more UK butterfly I'd like to see to complete my list - the impressive large yellow and black Swallowtail, which is only found in Norfolk. I've been focusing my attention on the butterflies that live a complete life cycle in the UK, so that doesn't include rare migrant species like the Queen of Spain Fritllary - though I'd love to see them if the opportunity arose.

There is one other species that deserves a mention. I've excluded the Cryptic Wood White ( Leptidea juvernica ) from my list. It's only found in Ireland. It looks exactly like a Wood White ( Leptidea sinapis ), which I have already seen in Sussex. Visually, they are no different. Although they are found in different places, the only way to differentiate between them is by examining the genitalia or DNA anaylsis. Whilst it would be nice for Bob and I to visit Ireland one day to see this species, as neither of us have, I'm going to leave that for another year.

With two weeks left of my break, but some decidedly poor weather expected, would I get to see the Swallowtail butterfly this year? My fingers were crossed I'd be lucky!

Glanville Fritillary

Sat, 07 Jun 2025 15:04:25 GMT

If you've been following my blog, you'll know that after I completed the challenge of seeing all the butterfly species we have in Sussex , I began a follow-up quest to see all the species of butterfly found in the UK. Last year, in 2024, a few trips north to Cumbria and Scotland gave me the opportunity to see many of the species not found in the south, including the Chequered Skipper , Large Heath and Scotch Argus . This meant I had only three more species left to see as we headed into 2025 - the Glanville Fritillary, Heath Fritillary and Swallowtail, all of which are either rare or scarce localised species. Since they all emerge around May and June, I took time off from work so Bob and I could be spontaneous about when we'd try and see each of these species. The weather would impact us to a large extent, and so too when each butterfly species would start to emerge.

My first target for the year was the Glanville Fritillary on the Isle of Wight.

DAY 1

Since most butterfly species this year have been early on account of the warm dry spring we've had, we ended up booking a few nights on the island in mid-May, as soon as we knew there was a good chance of some fairly nice weather. Booking the ferry and finding a lovely B&B in Ventnor at fairly short notice was thankfully easy. We got up at the crack of dawn on the Sunday of the Bank Holiday weekend. After having a fairly straightforward drive to Portsmouth and smooth ferry crossing, we reached Compton Beach on the south west of the island by mid-morning.

It was cloudy when we arrived and Bob was eager to find some roosting Glanville Fritillaries. I was just eager to see my first one. We slowly ambled along the clifftop path, our eyes scouring the flowers along the way, hoping for that first flash of orange. As luck would have it, our first Glanville Fritillary was nectaring on a thistle right beside the path. It was a lovely fresh female. Her shorter, more rounded abdomen, was very apparent.

Soon after, I spotted this male nectaring on some Thrift. You can see how his abdomen is longer and thinner, reaching the edge of the hindwings. Although the females are slightly larger in size and have more rounded wings, apparently, my novice eyes can't easily detect these differences. The female's wings can also be darker.

I was thrilled to have seen my first Glanville Fritillaries so quickly. It really took the pressure off the remainder of our trip. We could then enjoy our time looking for the different colonies, really exploring each site, and hopefully take some lovely photos of this special butterfly. If we were really lucky, maybe we'd also find a mating pair.

I wanted to capture the moment on my phone, at the top of the cliffs with this lovely view in the distance. In the bottom right hand corner you can see the male perched on the Thrift.

The clouds revealed only brief pockets of sunshine, which meant we'd have more success photographing the butterflies as they would be less flighty. Although we spotted some nectaring and moving from one source to another, there were also longer periods when they rested with their both wings open and closed.

Bob found this lovely fresh female and we both enjoyed photographing her on the Red Sorrel.

Whilst we were near her, Bob suddenly noticed a male Kestrel perched right at the edge of the cliff less than five metres away from us. The tall grasses prevented any good photos, but it was lovely to see. It certainly didn't fly off in a hurry either, fairly unperturbed by our presence.

We wandered further along the path and gradually worked our way lower, staying close to each other, but independently looking for other Glanvilles. We were now being a bit more particular about which ones we'd photograph, wanting nice fresh ones without damage to their wings. That was when I found a mating pair. I was thrilled and called Bob over. It wasn't until afterwards, looking at the photo more closely, that I noticed how much more orange and fresher the male looked (on the right). It's usually the other way around with butterflies, as the males emerge early, before the females, so they're ready to mate as soon as the opportunity arises.

The next photo, of this same mating pair, is one of my favourites because it was the first opportunity I had to really appreciate the pattern on the underwings. It's beautiful and very unique. It's the best way to distinguish these fritillaries from others. I particularly love the orange hue of the golden sandstone cliffs in the background.

I'm not sure if it is just the light, but the male, which is now on the left, looks a little more creamier than the female. He was nectaring on the Thrift whilst they were mating. Talk about multi-tasking!

We were always really careful where we were walking to cause minimal disturbance. This need was really brought home to me when I stepped down from a rock and suddenly spotted a newly emerged fritillary very close to me. Her wings were still a little rumpled and for the first time I was able to appreciate how much darker the female is when fresh like this.

We found a handful of small pools of water below the collapsed cliff providing us with some distraction from the butterflies for a while. Aside from some tadpoles swimming around, there was also a male and a female Broad-bodied Chaser seen. She was busy egg laying. From her hovered position, just above the water, she would quickly and repeatedly lower the tip of her abdomen downwards, only sometimes being semi-submerged. It was fabulous to watch and a challenge to photograph, especially as I only had my macro lens with me.

After a short stroll along the beach to the base of the wooden steps, which would take us back to the clifftop and the car park, we enjoyed spotting our first Large Skipper of the year. There were also lots of Six-spot Burnet Moths on the wing and I saw several mating pairs. It was mid-afternoon by this point and we were both very tired, so decided to drive to Ventnor and find St Maur, our B&B.

The accommodation was fabulous and the host very welcoming, providing us with some useful information on good places to eat out. After a bit of down time and freshening up, we decided to head out again. Wheeler's Bay, on the waterfront of Ventnor, is another known site for the Glanville and conveniently close for us to visit before dinner. Since it was still light, we were hoping to see some roosting butterflies and walked there from our B&B.

Along the promenade, I spotted a Wall Lizard resting on a rock out in the open. Apparently, the colony in Ventnor is one of the oldest and largest in the UK. I've seen this species before at Shoreham Fort, but they were introduced there in the 1970s.

We didn't see any butterflies flying around, and we were starting to wonder if we'd have any success finding some Glanvilles. We were almost at the point of giving up when Bob suddenly spotted that familiar splash of orange adorning the Red Valerian at the base of the cliff walk. Once we spotted one, we then saw a handful more and they were all congregating in one small area.

I love these underwing backlit shots, especially this one with the pink haze of the Red Valerian in the background.

Shortly after, the cliffs obscured the sun and we left the butterflies in peace. It was time for dinner. We were famished by this point and had a wonderful meal at the Spyglass Inn. I was particularly impressed with their vegetarian selection and delicious desserts. Although it was too breezy to sit outside for long, overlooking the beach, we were able to have a window table indoors and continued to enjoy the view. It was a lovely end to our wonderful first day.

DAY 2

After a delicious hearty breakfast in the morning, we returned to Compton Beach. It was generally sunnier than the previous day, but still a bit windy. The temperature wasn't especially high when we first arrived, but it soon warmed up enough to encourage the butterflies into flight.

A small group of butterfly enthusiasts arrived when we did and headed along the clifftop path where we'd already explored, so we decided to head off in a different direction along the top of the cliff. We didn't find any Glanvilles, so we headed down the wooden steps to see what we could find at the lower level, just above the beach.

Bob spotted a solitary Bee Orchid early on, though we did see a couple more a few days later. There were also a couple of Common Blues roosting before the sun warmed them up. They weren't in their prime, with tatty white wing edges and generally were quite faded in colour.

We found a few tatty roosting Glanville Fritillaries, but we certainly weren't seeing the number we'd had on higher ground on the Sunday. Whilst meandering around, I spotted a clump of tall grass move on a small bank near the path. It was the kind of movement that might have been triggered by a small creature moving around in the undergrowth. I stopped, hoping to see it, but unfortunately, it remained out of sight. However, as a result of stopping to pay closer attention, I suddenly noticed a Glanville near my feet. At first, I thought it was newly emerged as there was a slight curl to the right hindwing (not visible in the photo). Only later did I realise that was unlikely, as a chunk of wing is missing from the top of the left hindwing, which you can see in the photo. (Notice the black spot on the orange that is showing on the forewing, which is tucked behind, which you wouldn't normally seen when the wings are closed like this.)

With less butterfly photographic opportunities, I was happy just looking around the edge of the pond to see what else I could find. Along the edges, there were loads of black caterpillars with orange along their side. I used Obsidentify and discovered they were Water-dropwort Brown moth caterpillars. Shortly after noticing them, I spotted a pair of Azure Damselflies in tandem (notice the black small spur on the thorax of the male on top). It was somewhat tricky trying to capture this image because the reeds were moving about quite a bit, and several of them getting in the way of a clean shot. Whilst trying to do this, I realised my head was extremely close a mass of the caterpillars and I didn't want to disturb, or wear them!

Generally, I fared much better with my photos that morning when the sun was temporarily obscured by clouds. My best Glanville photo of the day was a lovely female resting on some bramble. Soon after seeing her, we went for a walk along the beach towards another car park, and then back along the footpath at the top of the cliffs. I spotted a Wall Brown butterfly near the car park and then further along the Glanvilles were seen again on the wing mostly. I noticed they were often on the path ahead of us too, but usually flew off as we approached.

Walking along the clifftop was interesting as we could see how fragile the area was. In some places, large sections of cliff had collapsed and the public footpath was diverted to keep people safe and away from the edge. But, in terms of the Glanville Fritillary, they thrive in these land-slip areas where they are sheltered under the cliff and where plantain and other wildflowers have started to emerge on the disturbed soil. This is why they also like the Chines. It's a local term for a deep, narrow gorge where water has cut through the soft sandstone cliffs as it makes its way to the sea. So, after lunch, having spent plenty of time exploring Compton Beach, we decided to check out some other potential sites, visiting a few of the Chines as we worked our way eastwards.

We didn't have any luck seeing the Glanvilles at the first Chine, but Whale Chine proved to be a lovely spot for them, plus we had a great view along the coast from this point. Unfortunately, the path down to the beach was closed, but there was plenty to occupy our time at the top of the cliff.

The butterflies were all very active in the warm afternoon sunshine. I couldn't believe how many Glanvilles we saw at this location. They seemed to be everywhere. Mostly we saw males on the wing frantically in search of females, but sometimes I'd find a female amongst the fray, like this one.

The Thrift was abundant at the top of the Chine and around the edges of the clifftop. It seemed to be the most popular nectaring source for the Glanvilles, though Bird's-foot Trefoil is another favoured nectar source and was also seen nearby.

I walked around quite a bit, simply enjoying watching the males pursuing the females. Invariably, of the ones I saw, the female would always reject their advances and either fly off or hide until the male(s) lost interest.

There were other butterflies and moth species seen, a Small Heath, Common Blue and also a Yellow-shell Moth (photo).

In a way, the butterflies were too active to photograph easily, which was why I enjoyed just watching them and taking a few videos. It was very relaxing and it was good just taking some time to appreciate them.

We finished the afternoon relaxing in the garden of our B&B with a cool drink, listening to the sound of the birds. Briefly, we were also entertained by a couple of male Wall Lizards scampering around the patio. It was another lovely day filled with butterflies.

DAY 3

We decided it was time for something different by the third day. Having spent the majority of our time at the coast looking for insects, we opted for a walk in Parkhurst Forest, near Newport. It was a place I'd been before a few years ago with my mother. On that occasion we'd seen just one Red Squirrel high up a tall tree near the hide. I really wanted another opportunity to see these delightful creatures found on the island, even though I knew there was a chance we wouldn't spot any.

We headed off in the direction of the hide, but to my amazement, we actually spotted a Red Squirrel before we reached it. Bob saw some movement in a tree ahead of us and suddenly a squirrel emerged up the branch of a dead tree. What luck! It was such a wonderful clear sight of it. The squirrel clocked us too and, for a few seconds, we all stood still watching each other.

After taking a few photos, the squirrel scampered along the trunk, back through the fir tree and across the canopy above the path towards the other side. That was when I spotted the second squirrel, which was already amongst the foliage in the deciduous trees to our left. It was quite dark underneath and hard to photograph, so I used some exposure compensation to lighten the photos and see more clearly.

This second one was a female, I'm pretty sure, but the first one was a male. I think it's possible that it was a mother with one of her off-spring from last year. What was fascinating to watch, was how she appeared to be licking the honeydew from the leaves. Normally, you see the squirrels in fir trees.

The Red Squirrels made my day. I was so happy that we'd not only seen them, but had been able to enjoy watching them for nearly half an hour undisturbed. In fact, the forest was quite deserted and we felt like we had the place virtually to ourselves. There was the constant sound of the birds all around us, wherever we walked, but there were limited butterflies seen - we saw our first Meadow Brown of the year - and no dragonflies or damselflies.

At one point, we had decided to change direction and not continue down the path we were on. As I turned around, I spotted something a little distance away, walking across the path where we'd just walked. I looked through my bins and realised it was a Common Toad. I didn't want to approach too quickly, in case of scaring it off. However, it was making quite a steady bee-line for the other side of the path, which meant I wasn't really quick enough to capture many good photos. This was the only one worth keeping.

We enjoyed a lovely picnic lunch in the forest before heading back to the coast for some more butterfly action. I'd enjoyed Whale Chine so much the day before, I was keen to go back there again. We only stayed for an hour as there wasn't quite as much activity. Many of the butterflies seemed to be sheltering from the wind over the edge of the cliffs. However, I did see another mating pair of Glanvilles, plus one nectaring on the Oxeye Daisies and a beautiful fresh looking female on the big leaves of the Ribwort Plantain, the foodplant of the caterpillar.

Since it was our last evening, we also decided to go back to Wheeler's Bay one final time and look for the roosting Glanvilles again. We actually didn't see quite as many as the previous occasion. But, there were a few. Amazingly, Bob spotted a mating pair just below another female higher up the bank. The lone female could only see the male and wasn't aware he was already mating, so she was in the 'rejection' posture with her abdomen raised up. I only had my macro lens, so wasn't able to take a good photo, but you can just about see the three of them slightly up and left of centre.

I found another two butterflies roosting on the same Red Valerian, although they didn't seem to mind each other.

I was lucky enough to be videoing this butterfly from the underside, when it suddenly turned and opened it's wings wide. Lovely!

This is another one of my favourite photos, shot in the lovely evening light. I love how you can only see the eyes and antennae of the butterfly as it peering from behind the plantain.

DAY 4

On our final day, the rain arrived! We left the B&B that morning with low expectations, however, we didn't give up and go back to the mainland early. There was a chance it wouldn't be as bad as they forecast and we might find some roosting butterflies to photograph. The only downside to our plan was that we didn't have waterproof trousers with us, just waterproof jackets - the rain hadn't been forecast when we'd left home.

We decided to start at Whale Chine and spent two hours there. This proved to be a good plan as it didn't rain, even though we could see dark rain clouds in the distance and either side of us at various times. Needless to say, there wasn't much of anything flying around, but we did have success finding the Glanvilles resting on various vegetation, including over half a dozen in one small area.

I didn't find any butterflies with rain actually on them, but you could see the drops on the seedheads of the grass.

I particularly loved it when they were on the Red Sorrel. This front on shot is another favourite. These kinds of photos definitely create more of an intimacy with the creature. I feel more connected to it.

Once again, I found two together on one seedhead. What I particularly like about this photo is the view you have of the female. You can see just how big her abdomen is, which is filled with eggs. Each female will lay between 50-100 eggs in each batch.

Whilst we were at Whale Chine, we spotted a Spanish galleon not far off the coast sailing in the direction of Ventnor. This might usually seem a little bizarre, but we were informed earlier in the morning that the town were putting on some special celebrations to mark the anniversary of the Spanish Armada's attempted invasion of England in 1588. The galleon would be firing a cannon salute off the coast. It was a shame the weather wasn't better to mark the occasion.

By the time we were ready to move on to Compton Beach for one last visit, and have a bite to eat, the rain descended. We sat in the car to eat our snacks, but as luck would have it, by the time we were ready to head out, the rain had eased off sufficiently. We walked down to the lower level again, hopeful we'd find some roosting butterflies, but we saw very little. I spotted the Large Skipper again, this time hiding under some leaves and found a few Soft-winged Flower Beetles crawling over some Thrift, including a mating pair ( Psilothrix viridicoerulea ).

I'd been so pleased with all the wonderful views of Glanville Fritillaries we'd had over the course of the four days we'd been there, it was hardly disappointing we saw so few on our last afternoon. There were a few last treats for us though, including the photo at the bottom of this blog.

Just when we were ready to leave, Bob spotted another mating pair. The female is on top and looking much fresher than the male.

For quite some time they both perched with their wings closed, but then the female gradually opened up her wings trying to warm up.

It was the perfect last Glanville Fritillary sighting of our trip. From there, we trudged our way back up the steps to the top of the cliffs. That was when I spotted a Kestrel hovering nearby. Since our first day, when we'd seen one perched on the cliff top, quite frequently we'd seen a pair flying around. It was lovely to have one more glimpse and to get a photo. I quite like that it's a bit different. The sun was out, creating the lovely bokeh affect in the background over the sea. Even though you can't see the bird's head, I like the position of its wings and tail.

It was a wonderful mini break to the Isle of Wight and seeing yet another new species of butterfly for me. Whilst there are lots of other places of interest on the island - some of which I've seen on other occasions - we were both really happy spending our days looking for these lovely butterflies. Bob had only been to see them on the island once before, so he was equally in his element enjoying the opportunity and our experience together.

I ought to add, you can see the Glanville Fritillary on the mainland, but these other colonies are the result of various reintroductions. The Isle of Wight colonies are the last remaining natural British colonies. They are considered to be at the northernmost extent of their range.

Now I'm one step closer to achieving my goal and seeing all the UK species. Next up will be the Heath Fritillary. As I'm nearing the end of this quest, I'm really excited to see the last few species. What a journey I've been on these last few years.

The Return Journey

Thu, 01 May 2025 10:16:45 GMT

THE DRAKE PASSAGE

After spending over two weeks living on board the Plancius, I was used to the constant movement of the ship. The early bouts of sea sickness were a thing of the past and I seldom needed to take any medication. I put my wristbands on occasionally and ate some ginger chews at times too, but I felt like I'd found my sea legs. However, we were yet to cross the Drake Passage. It is infamous for its strong winds, powerful currents and giant waves, making it potentially very challenging and dangerous for ships! I just hoped it wouldn't be that bad for us, on our final leg of our sea journey. I'd been concerned about it before we left, and I knew Bob was worried too, which was why we had all sorts of medication to hand if needed. So, you can imagine our surprise when the next two days at sea passed by uneventfully. One member of staff had said the Drake Passage was a mill pond and they'd never seen it like that before. What a relief! In fact, I was amazed that during our entire journey we'd managed to avoid all the nasty weather systems that seemed either to be ahead of or behind us. Amazing! This was something I was truly grateful for!

It was wonderful to experience some beautiful blue skies and to be out on deck again, enjoying the sunshine. But, it was cold! The temperature was about 1°C! I welcomed the sight of Cape Petrels flying close to us and seeing a large number of them too. These attractive birds had been our constant companions virtually throughout the trip.

I even had some success photographing the smaller birds that flew alongside us. These next two photos might look like they're of the same bird, but they're not. They're two different species of Prion - the Slender-billed and the Antarctic. I'm not 100% sure I have them the right way around, but even birders find it tricky to identify the different Prion species when the birds are flying.

It was nice to have a close view of what I think is a Southern Royal Albatross on our last day at sea, which wasn't quite so sunny. It's very similar looking to the Northern Royal Albatross. What I recall being told whilst on the trip is that the white leading edge of the wings is the giveaway for it being a Southern one. As there is usually more white on the leading edge than is show in this photo, makes me think it's possibly a juvenile. Again, if anyone can confirm, that would be great.

Eventually, land could be seen up ahead and we edged closer towards civilisation again. I was rather sad that the boat trip was coming to an end. It felt like we'd been living in a bubble for the past three weeks and it was about to burst. We entered The Beagle Channel in the early evening, with enough light to start with so we could appreciate the wildlife still and our surroundings. Some lovely Peale's Dolphins came alongside us for a short spell, entertaining us with their antics, swimming close to the hull.

We also saw a few Magellanic Penguins in the water too, the first since the start of our trip.

We were surrounded by stunning scenery and impressive mountains on both sides of us. To our right was the Tierra del Fuego region of Argentina (photo) and to our left was Chile.

USHUAIA

The following morning, after we said all our goodbyes to our fellow passengers and the staff members, along with our thanks for their amazing efforts to keep us safe, informed and entertained, we finally disembarked from Plancius. We collected our luggage and found our way up to a travel agents where I'd arranged for our luggage to be stored for the day, to give us the freedom to walk around and explore.

We headed west along the coastal path, alongside the waterside and marvelled at the impressive view of the city, with the mountains behind and the amazing reflections. It's an attractive city and it had a lovely vibe to it.

We kept a watchful eye open for any bird life and saw quite a few different species throughout our day. I spotted a Magellanic Cormorant (also known as a Rock Shag) in the water having quite a lengthy bath, splashing around quite a bit.

Just a little further on we reached an enclosed lake beside the bay called Bahia Encerrada, which is part of a small urban nature reserve. We were both thrilled to see two Black-crowned Night Herons standing on the rocks around the edge. The first one we saw must have been in the water just beforehand, as all its feathers were fluffed up and it didn't look quite as sleak as the second one we spotted shortly after. It has an amazing long white plume, which they use during greeting and courtship displays.

Unfortunately, the second one was disturbed by a dog, just whilst we were trying to take our photos. Though, I was pleased to have a flying shot as it passed us.

We hadn't walked far from there when we spotted a pair of Southern Lapwing in a relatively small area of grass beside the road. One was sitting on a nest very close to the pavement, which didn't seem like an ideal spot. The other was was walking around looking for food and alarm calling every now and then whenever people walked too close.

On the far side of the lake, we reached a more quiet spot a little set back from the road. We turned down a path following alongside a small channel of water and suddenly I spotted this Magellanic Snipe. It looked very similar to the Common Snipe we see at home, but one of the main differences is the colouration on the back and wings, which is more rufescent (reddish-brown). We watched it for a while, as it walked through the vegetation looking for food. I was lucky enough to capture the moment it sucked up a worm from the ground.

When we reached an open hide that overlooked another pond, we took a seat and relaxed for a while, wondering what else we would see. It wasn't long before another Magellanic Snipe appeared, also looking for food. They're very hard to spot otherwise, when they're stationary and lurking low amongst the growth around the water.

I then spotted something larger moving in the water. A mammal. I was completely surprised when I realised it was a Beaver. It was the unexpected highlight of my day, as I've never seen one before, only the evidence of them. There were actually two of them coming and going from what was evidently an underwater lodge, and sometimes spending extended periods out in the middle of the pond feeding on the aquatic plants. Only later did I discover the Argentine government introduced them back in the 1940s to establish a fur trade. Without a natural predator to control numbers, the population went out of control - they estimate there are about 100,000 now. They play havoc with local wildlife in the Tierra del Fuego area, damaging ecosystems and changing landscapes dramatically. So, they've become a really big problem.

Now we were further away from the port, we had an even better view of the mountains and could see the Plancius docked by the pier. It's the small white and blue boat that looks quite dimuitive alongside the larger Roald Amundsen cruise ship that dominates the view. It was the same one we'd seen a few days before at Deception Island. All the ships come and go from Ushuaia during the summer season. They only depart from different ports when they are making their first voyage in the summer season from wherever they've been during the other months of the year. I was very glad we'd been on a smaller vessel. We were so lucky not to have seen any other ships for the majority of our journey around South Georgia and Antarctica.

Walking on from the hide and thrugh more of the reserve, we spotted a gorgeous Patagonia Sierra Finch. We then headed up a hill and at the top there was a Chimango Caracara walking around.

I could see why other people would want to come up to the top of the hill that overlooked the city.

As luck would have it, by walking up to the top of the hill, we then spotted a couple of Black-faced Ibis walking through the long grass. They kept moving away from us at first. They were in a slightly enclosed area, so it limited where we could walk, but we eventually managed to edge a bit closer to photograph them, without disturbing them.

Although they were mostly busy looking for food, they clearly kept an eye on the skies too for any predators they needed to be wary of.

We then headed back down to the lake and walked around it, this time spotting the Yellow-billed Pintail. It looked very similar to the South Georgia Pintail we'd seen earlier on in the trip. In fact, they're both a sub species of the same species Anas georgica. This one is slightly larger and lighter coloured than the South Geogria one apprently with a larger yellow bill.

The final wildlife treat of the day was seeing these two Crested Ducks courting. The constant head bobbing action was amusing and interesting to watch. It went on for quite a while. Notice how the male on the left is a bit larger than the female on the right.

Then the next thing I saw, the female lowered her head submissively and the male moved onto her back, keeping her submerged. He used his bill to hold onto her feathers and keep her in this position for the few seconds that mating occurs. I've seen this with other birds species, such as Kingfishers. When he was done, he slid off her back and they swam alongside each other.

After returning to the city for a bite to eat at the Hard Rock Café, we collected our luggage and caught a taxi to the airport. It was time to start our long journey home and resume normal life! However, life somehow seems different now I've had this wonderful memorable once in a lifetime experience. I've enjoyed reliving it as I've been sharing these blog posts and there are still photos I've not looked at yet.

If you'd like to hear more, I'll be giving a talk about my experience at The Steyning Centre, in October 2025. If you're interested in coming along, keep an eye on What's New - press the button on the Home Page for further details.

To see a smaller selection of my favourite photos from the holiday, click here .

Antarctica Day 3

Tue, 29 Apr 2025 10:37:21 GMT

YANKEE HARBOUR

On our final day in the Antarctic, we knew the morning landing was likely to be our last wildlife spot. Having already seen so much wonderful wildlife and taken thousands of photos, we went ashore with the aim of relaxing, taking our time and just enjoying the walk and whatever we might see. On the one hand, I felt as though there couldn't be anything more we hadn't already seen, but, I also knew there were bound to be some surprises too.

Once more, we caught the last zodiac leaving the ship. We were welcomed onto land by the presence of this adult Weddell Seal. I just love those big dark eyes.

Further along the walk, we saw another seal sleeping on the pack ice in the bay just off shore. It was a Crabeater Seal - a new species for us. Unfortunately, its position lying down meant it was difficult to take any good photos and by the time we returned back that way, it had slipped into the water and disppeared.

It was no surprise we saw Gentoo Penguins on land as there's a large colony at Yankee Harbour. You can see in the photo just heavily the snow was falling. It only eased off occasionally. However, it wasn't that cold. I think I heard someone saying it was about 0°C.

Having seen lots of Brown Skuas, finally, on that last morning, we saw a South Polar Skua. It has a paler head and chest and, although you can't appreciate it in this photo, they're smaller and have distinctive white markings on the wings. Later in the morning, we saw one flying towards us and I could see the white in the wings then.

I really wanted to practice photographing the penguins porpoising, which is so difficult to capture. On this occasion, I had ample opportunity as there were several small groups of them working their way along the side of the beach. However, the snow was making it even more challenging than usual, as the camera sometimes struggled to focus on the penguins due to all the snow! This next photo was probably the best one!

There were often small groups of Gentoos waddling across the snow, making their way to the sea. I guess it makes sense to stay together this way, so when in the water there was safety in numbers.

They would often stop and look around before moving on.

Their red beaks really are so striking. It was fabulous to have a close up view inside the mouth of one whilst it was having a bit of a barney with one of the other penguins.

Why walk when you can slide? We'd seen a little sliding behaviour on the previous days, but there was noticeably more on this occasion. Then again, there was a lot more snow. It was probably the easiest and quickest way of moving about! It was fabulous to watch, how they would use their feet to push themselves along with some guidance with their flippers. They really were very quick!

There was plenty more courtship taking place, as was now customary with so many of the penguins at this time of year. I love this next photo as it looks like he's whispering sweet somethings into her ear. They do actually have ears, but no ear flaps. They only have small holes for hearing, which are covered by the feathers, which is why you can't see them.

His attention was working, as she soon assumed the lower position and he clambered on top of her back to mate with her. The male definitely needs good balancing skills!

Soon after, I saw two penguins walk swiftly past me. They were very well synchronised as they moved. I love this photo because it makes me think of ice skaters gliding in unison.

We eventually reached an end point that led to the bulk of the colony, from what we could make out. A mass of Gentoos lined the beach, with an impressive glacier in the background.

From there, we retraced our steps to the main path, intending to follow the loop trail around more of the colony, but we were side tracked and never made it any further. A few people ahead of us were standing looking at a group of penguins. Suddenly, I realised one of the penguins was different. It was an Adélie! Amazing! Talk about third time lucky! Finally, we were seeing one fairly close to us. I couldn't believe it. Most people had already left or had started walking back towards the zodiacs, so only a small number of us were lucky enough to see it.

It didn't linger long amongst the Gentoos and began walking, then sliding away. Unfortunately, there were a couple of people that were following it a bit too close for comfort, trying to take photos with their phones. I think some people just don't realise the impact their actions can have on wildlife. It makes me very grateful that I have a camera with a telephoto lens allowing me to capture these images without being too close.

When a little more space was given, the Adélie stopped and looked around, briefly glancing our way. It then began preening itself for a bit.

When it was ready to move on again, it lowered its belly to the ground and began sliding along the snow once more.

It repeated this process of stopping, preening, surveying, having a little shakedown and then moving on a few times. Occasionally, it would also vocalise.

It was wonderful experiencing these magical moments watching the penguin, before it eventually slid away. Bob and I were thrilled and so happy with this last sighting. It was time for us to leave and head back towards the zodiac.

Along the way, we saw a few small iceberg bits that had been washed ashore around the low lying spit of land that created the bay. The colour of the ice always amazes me.

We walked to a further point to be collected by the zodiac as the wind had changed direction. From where we waited we could see a mass of penguins in the bay congregating in one area. We weren't sure what was going on, but it must have been a bit of a feeding frenzy. Then, all of a sudden, I spotted a small group porpoising much closer towards us, following the line of the beach. Lovely!

Thankfully, the mass gathering of penguins in the water was still there when we were taken closer to them in the zodiac, before returning to the ship. It was amazing being surrounded by so many penguins just floating on the surface and occasionally dipping their head down or diving down. It was the first time of being at water level with so many of them, so close to us, and their not swimming away. I never imagined we'd have such a close encounter. One time a penguin popped up within a couple of metres from me (bottom photo). Wow! What a moment.

One of my fellow travellers, Dick, had a GoPro with him and he'd managed to video what was going on beneath the surface. He very kindly shared it with lots of us and said it was okay to share with you here. I'm thrilled you can see it because it really is quite wonderful! The next two videos are his.

Unfortunately, we had to return to the ship and leave the Gentoos behind. As the zodiac pulled away, we were followed by a few of them porpoising. I never tire of seeing this. It was truly magical! On my first zodiac cruise we had dolphins porpoising in front of us, and now we were coming to the end of our trip, we had penguins porpoising behind. What a spectacular ending! Another lady from our trip shared her phone video with us, which shows what it was like leaving.

I think Yankee Harbour was my favourite place on the whole trip!

There was one more place for us to visit, Deception Island, before we began our two day sail north again away from Antarctica. We followed the coastline of Livingston Island and amazingly, this time, we had some blue skies. Whilst there was still a lot of cloud hugging the mountains, it was lovely being able to appreciate the dramatic view.

If you look closely in the next photo, you can just see the mountain in the background covered by a glacier, behind the peaks in the foreground. It was a hint of what was hidden from view.

Just before we reached Deception Island, we had some more whale sightings. First was a pod of Orca Whales and they were clearly hunting the waters just around us. Just like before, their movements were totally unpredictable and we never knew where they'd resurface. I ended up moving to the back of the boat and not long after I also spotted two Humpback Whales together not that far away. In the photo you can see one is diving down and its characteristic humped back, whilst the other remained at the surface just to the right of it.

TELEFON BAY, DECEPTION ISLAND

Deception Island is a 10km wide caldera - a large bowl shaped depression created by a volcano collapsing in on itself after a major eruption. It occurred roughly 10,000 years ago and the sea flooded it. Despite it still being an active volcano, it's considered safe to sail right into the centre, which was a bit surreal. In the past, there has been science and military interest on the island, but it has been deserted since 1969 when the British Base was destroyed by volcanic eruptions.

There was another massive cruise ship in the harbour - the Roald Amundsen, which can carry 500 passengers in the Antarctic. Thankfully, we stayed well clear of it and its passengers walking around that part of the island. Just as an aside, I ought to point out that the International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators have imposed restrictions, which means that only 100 passengers can land at any one time in one specific location. This is to help minimise the impact humans have on the fragile Antarctic environment.

We sailed on to Telefon Bay and had the place to ourselves. There was a lovely surprise when we landed - snow shoes were provided for us to explore up the hill. I've actually been snow shoeing once before with a friend of mine up in Canada, so it wasn't completely alien to me. It certainly made it easier to walk through the snow. It didn't take Bob long to get used to them either.

These photos aren't black and white! The landscape was just very stark.

There was little in the way of wildlife there, just a few birds flying around. In a way, it was nice to give the camera a bit of a break and enjoy our final walk in Antarctica.

Once we were back on board the Plancius, heading out through the entrance to the harbour, the sun began to break through the cloud and shone on the imposing sheer rock wall.

It continued to shine on the South Shetland Islands as we sailed away.

We were also treated to a beautiful sunset that evening, with an iceberg floating on the horizon. A fitting reminder of climate concerns and making me wonder what the future holds for Antarctica and the rest of the planet.

What a fabulous trip we'd had! We'd experienced so many amazing, unforgettable wildlife encounters. For me, the trip had far exceeded any of my expectations and the icing on the cake was being able to share it all with Bob. In a way, it was good that we had two more days at sea before reaching land again. It would give us a little time to soak it all in and prepare ourselves for civilisation again. We were heading to Ushuaia, the most southerly city in the world at the bottom tip of South America. Many passengers were staying a few days to explore, which would have been great. But sadly, I had to get back for work.

Last post in the series: The Return Journey

To see a smaller selection of my favourite photos from the holiday, click here .

Antarctica Day 2

Thu, 24 Apr 2025 20:58:04 GMT

HEADING TO THE ANTARCTIC PENINSULA

We had an early morning wake up call at about 5am to say we were close to the Antarctic Peninsula and had reached the pack ice. Despite the early hour, there was a lot of excitment on board and the cold air certainly woke me up. All around us were icebergs and brash ice and slowly the ship surged forwards. There were two Cormorants sitting on top of a large iceberg. They looked tiny in comparison.

The only penguins we saw were Gentoos in the water, porpoising alongside us and then heading away. I was even lucky enough to photograph two porpoising together, which I was thrilled about.

It wasn't long before the snow started. You can just about see some of it on the left side of this next picture, and just how windy it was - they weren't softly falling large flakes of snow. I don't know how cold it was, but it definitely felt below freezing and we certainly made sure we were wrapped up.

A few birds were flying around the boat and it was lovely to see the Snow Petrels again, so well camouflaged against the ice. But, perhaps the highlight was seeing our first Antarctic Petrels. They're so rarely seen. With a wingspan of 100-110cm, they're a bit larger than our regular companions on the trip, the Cape Petrels.

We kept our distance from any large icebergs, but a few smaller ones were quite close and I could even see the ice below the surface.

Sadly, the pack ice was further north than had been hoped - it hadn't yet melted. This prevented us accessing the mainland of Antarctica. We always knew that this could possibly happen, being so early in the season. The captain of the ship was concerned about the loose ice in the water closing in on us. The weather can change that quickly, being stuck in the ice was a very real concern. It had happened to him before and for several days the ship had been unable to move until the ice thawed. I could understand his caution, though it was disappointing not to be landing on the mainland. Even turning the ship around in a tight space was tricky.

Knowing that we would be heading north again, returning to the South Shetland Islands, I wanted to make the most of the time we had at this point. It seemed to pass too quickly. I think we were only there about an hour. I would have liked longer, to really fully absorb the significance of where we were, and why we were having to turn back.

In some ways, it was disappointing the weather was so poor. We weren't able to see land ahead at all, so for me there was no real sense of how far away we were from it. I found myself reminiscing about my trip to the Arctic in 2016 and how different the two trips were. On that occasion, the edge of the pack ice was our destination, to see the Polar Bears that hunt on it during the summer months. The light was beautiful and the sun didn't set.

The Arctic is a frozen sea, so there was no land for us to reach, unlike in the Antarctic. In fact, this is the main difference between the Poles and why the Antarctic is a continent. Of course, having land and mountains creates just the kind of weather we were experiencing, so it wasn't surprising the conditions were worse.

The poor visibility made me think about the harsh conditions and challenges of visiting such a remote frozen continent. I thought about all the explorers that had been before us over the years. It was a good reality check - I felt privileged to be there at all. I felt lucky to have been able to experience it, even if it hadn't been what I had hoped for. I thought about the promotional photos of azure skies over stunning icebergs that I hoped to see. But, you don't always get those kinds of days. I would still love to see that, but for me, it felt important and significant to accept what is. This was our reality. I made a conscious decision to let go of any disappointment or frustration as I didn't want it to ruin what was otherwise a totally amazing experience. I may not have landed on the mainland, but in my mind, I'd still been to the Antarctic.

As we were leaving the pack ice, I noticed a pocket of sunshine light up an iceberg in the distance. It was tantalisingly close. It was quite symbolic.

Bob and I headed down to the lower deck for breakfast when the pack ice was behind us. Whilst sitting down to eat, I saw this impressive blue iceberg through the window. I had to make do with a phone photo. Then, I noticed a group of penguins on the lower ridge and I was gutted I wasn't out on deck taking photos with my proper camera.

It was another rough day at sea and we weren't allowed out on the main decks, however, we were allowed out on the fifth deck next to the Bridge of the ship. Bob and I were about to listen to one of the talks, but then we saw more Antarctic Petrels flying alongside the boat, much closer than before. So, we made a swift exit and went up to the top of the boat. We hadn't been up there before. There wasn't a huge amount of space on either side, and it was very windy, with few places to shield yourself from it, but we had quite a bit of fun photographing these lovely birds. We even had the benefit of some sunshine for a while too.

Whilst we may not have been able to land on the mainland because of being early in the season, this was the very reason we were seeing the Antarctic Petrel, which is so rarely seen later, in the height of summer. The silver lining, as a result of turning around and heading to the South Shetland Islands again, was in having such fabulous close views of this lovely bird.

Of course, the sunshine didn't last! By the time land was in sight again, the clouds dominated the sky and hung close to the mountain tops.

HALF MOON ISLAND

Late in the afternoon, we had a landing on Half Moon Island, which is quite small. I could see penguins lining the low ridges that were dwarded by the mountains on the island behind.

It was snowing again by the time we set foot on shore. A Gentoo Penguin happened to come ashore the same time and looked over at me briefly before continuing on its own journey.

The vast majority of penguins on the island were Chinstraps. Generally, they were a lot cleaner than the ones we'd seen the day before, as there was much more snow now we were a bit further south. Those just lying around, sleeping, didn't even notice us passing by, or were unperturbed by our presence.

As always, if any penguins were walking or sliding along the snow, to or from the colony, we had to give them space and right of way.

Of course, we were following a route that had been set out for us with the temporary red markers, but the penguins could go wherever they wanted, which meant checking behind you every now and then. You definitely had to stay alert. You never knew where or when the next penguin would appear.

Bob and I were feeling very relaxed by this point on our journey. We'd seen so much already and had taken A LOT of photos. We let others rush ashore and so we were often amongst the last to arrive, and subsequently amongst the last to leave, which had its own benefits - time with fewer people around.

When we reached the point where the people (above) were standing, we had some lovely views of the Chinstraps vocalising. I love how they stretch up and flap their flippers!

Another advantage of travelling early in the season, was having the opportunity to witness some of the penguin species mating. I was thrilled. It isn't exactly a private affair with the rest of the colony surrounding them. But, despite this, I was able to observe a few tender moments between the penguins, as their beaks touched and caressed each other.

As we were retracing our steps towards the middle of the island, we heard that an Adélie Penguin had been spotted in that vicinity. Eager to have another sighting, hopefully better than the first, I anxiously looked out for it. There was a large open expanse of snow above the beach, with a few penguins scattered around. But, all on its own, not particularly close by, was one lone Adélie lying down in the snow. I took a few photos, even though it wasn't close. It then gradually made its way down the slope closer to the beach, so we walked down the way-marked route back to our landing site and walked along the beach to join a few of our fellow passengers who were already there. The problem was, we were now much lower down and since Bob and I are vertically challenged, we struggled to see it. I didn't take many photos, but I love this one, when it raised up its beak vocalising and lifted its flippers in the air. I felt sorry for it though, all alone, without any others of its kind nearby.

Unfortunately, our presence on the beach unsettled a young Weddell Seal pup that was also lying on the snow above us with its mum. Agitated, it started to move about. Then suddenly, it slipped down the slope closer towards us. It stopped short of the drop down to the beach and peered at us from the snow. It was absolutely gorgeous! I took one of my favourite photos of the trip (bottom), though I was sad about how it had come about. Its mum clearly was not happy and I knew that we had disturbed them. Instinctively, Bob and I retreated back along the beach, though that in itself was quite tricky as there were other penguins coming or going from the sea. But, the others in the group kept watching the Adélie, so were stuck on that side.

Later, I heard that the mum joined the pup and the two of them came down to the beach and went into the water, hopefully finding somewhere else more peaceful to rest. I felt bad that our presence had affected the animals in this way. As much as you try not to disturb them, it is inevitable that you do sometimes. It might have been minimal, and there was no real serious or prolonged threat, but, in this climate and hostile environment, the wildlife need to conserve their energy for the things that matter and not humans disturbing them unnecessarily. It was a good reminder for me.

Rather than head back early to the ship, we decided to walk the loop trail around the other end of the island, which we'd not yet explored. The ground was lower, so there was less to see, with virtually no penguins, though we did spot a group of them on an iceberg in the bay.

Along this walk, we saw another Weddell Seal mum and pup. The youngster was calling out and really struggling to manoeuvre its large body over the rocks. I thought perhaps it was hungry, but its mother was not budging an inch to allow it to suckle from her. However, it also might have been vocalising because there were a handful of people watching it.

We enjoyed our walk on the quieter part of the island, though walking through the snow was hard work at times. When we reached the middle of the island again, those that were brave enough to do the polar plunge were getting changed and going into the water. In the end, there were about a dozen who did it. Very swiftly afterwards, they had to put some warm layers on again and make a hasty retreat to the ship. I wasn't even remotely tempted to do the plunge myself. I prefer to stay warm!

Despite not actually having the opportunity to land on the Antarctic Peninsula and spending quite a bit of time at sea again, I really enjoyed the day. It was quite a surreal experience to be surrounded by the pack ice and icebergs in the morning, we had great fun photographing the Antarctic Petrels when we were sailing, and the highlight was our landing on Half Moon Island with more wonderful wildlife sightings. Unfortunately, though, there were a lot of people who were not happy. For some, their expectations were not met and they felt huge disappointment, anger and frustration. All sorts of comments were flying around about what could have been done, or should have been done. I understood where they were coming from and sympathesized with them. It was such a shame that it seemed to completely ruin the whole trip for some people. Perhaps they had not been aware that not being able to land was a very real possibility beforehand.

For the first time on the entire trip, I felt a horrible negative energy fill the dining room that evening. It was like an infection that spread through the ship. I didn't want to be surrounded by all the negativity. It was draining and bringing me down. Bob and I were both determined not to let it ruin the remainder of our holiday and tried to focus on all the things we'd enjoyed. Plus, we made a concerted effort to be around those people who were generally positive about the trip, like us.

I was so grateful for the opportunity to be there in the first place. I didn't doubt that our safety had been the highest priority, but I also realised we had limited time and options. This is the reality of travelling to the Antarctic and going early in the season. It's the risk you take. There are no guarantees with nature and the unpredictability of the weather is just one aspect of that.

I'm of the opinion that it's better to have no or low expectations and appreciate everything you experience - the highs and the lows - if you want to avoid feeling disappointed. As much as possible, I try to focus on what I have, not what I don't have. I'm a ' glass half full' person and that makes me happy.

With one day still left to explore the polar region, I was ready for another fabulous day ahead, even though I had no idea what we would experience.

Next post in the series: Antarctica Day 3!

To see a smaller selection of my favourite photos from the holiday, click here .

Antarctica Day 1

Mon, 21 Apr 2025 08:45:38 GMT

PENGUIN ISLAND

We woke up to find it snowing heavily for the first time on our journey so far and I was thrilled. I love the snow! It seemed so fitting to be seeing the penguins in these cold conditions. We managed to get ashore in one of the first few zodiacs and stayed virtually until the last one, so we made the most of our landing and really enjoyed ourselves observing the penguins on the island and other wildlife. Sadly, there weren't any Adélie Penguin colonies to be found, but we saw a few Gentoo Penguins walking around.

It was important to remember to give them space to walk and not follow too closely behind, in case it was scaring them unnecessarily. Sadly, I noticed one young woman doing exactly that and she didn't seem to notice, or realise, the penguin was waddling along faster, to get away from her. It only made her speed up. Awareness is key. Getting a photo is not the top priority!

The majority of our time was spent observing the different behaviour of the Chinstrap Penguins. There were quite a few coming ashore at a particular place just down from the main colony. As I approached, I could see a row of people blocking the way forward for the penguins. Again, I don't think the people realised. This time, I instinctively called out, alerting them to the fact, and thankfully, they moved out of the way. Although there were usually staff members at various key places to point out such issues, they couldn't be everywhere and see everything going on.

It was interesting to watch some of the Chinstraps eating the snow!

There were a few incredibly dirty looking penguins. One almost looked like a rock!

But, once we'd walked higher up to the main colony, we could see why! The ice was all melted around them and the vast majority of the colony were muddy. There was a lot of noise. One penguin would raise up its beak towards the sky and started vocalising. Then, a few others would follow suit...and a few more. There was almost a constant chattering amongst themselves.

The snow became heavier and the Plancius, sitting in the bay, was harder to see.

Some of the group walked up to the higher point on the island, but as usual, Bob and I were more interested in staying where the wildlife was. We were simply in our element.

Soon after taking this photo, one of our group wandered off the trail a little, which he wasn't supposed to do. It wasn't just because the snow was often deeper and potentially dangerous, but it wasn't good for the penguins. Just a few minutes before, our tour leader was telling us how the penguins can get stuck in the deeper holes that our tread can make in the snow. It means they have to waste precious energy getting out of the holes. Whenever she spotted these deeper holes where people had walked, she would kick the snow and stamp around to make it more uniform, just in case an unsuspecting penguin came along that way. It wasn't something we had thought about, but was really good to learn.

It's so important to be mindful of our impact on nature, especially in a remote place like this. There isn't much flora so far south, but the little they have needs to be protected. So, we were advised to walk on the snow and not the bare areas of ground or rock, in case we were destroying the little vegetation there is.

For a while the snow eased off and it brightened up a bit - just enough for us to appreciate the glaciers across the bay. As we looked that way, we also spotted some seals on a small low lying iceberg, though we couldn't make out which species they were. Closer to us was a lone Gentoo, possibly looking for a way down to the beach.

We were hopeful that we'd eventually see a South Polar Skua, but so far we were only seeing Brown Skuas. There'd been one standing on a large boulder near the Chinstrap colony earlier, but when the snow eased I was pleased to see one flying near us.

When it came down to land, I noticed it's mate was on the ground already squarking away. Then soon after, I spotted one of them by a pool of water that looked mostly frozen over.

Just along from the Skua, three Gentoos walked down to the same pool, perusing their surroundings. They were possibly wondering what these strange tall creatures were walking around their island and watching them.

Then one of the group waddled off and started to drink some water. This is one of my favourite Gentoo photos.

Bob and I had walked the shorter circuit marked out for the group and found our way back to the beach, near where we'd first landed. Since we weren't ready to return to the ship yet, we decided to start the loop walk again, heading back towards the main Chinstrap colony following the coast. That's when I noticed this small stretch of beach and the black sand on it.

By the time we reached the colony, it was snowing again. I enjoyed watching a penguin moving some rocks into a pile. I'm not sure if he was trying to impress the one nearby. However, it doesn't look as though it was working.

The penguins also spend a lot of time preening.

One of my favourite moments of the morning was when I became enthralled watching a lone Chinstrap Penguin that had just come ashore and was hopping from rock to rock.

After it had walked away, I noticed the prints it had left in the snow and took a photo of them.

To get back to the zodiacs, we had to walk past this rather large Antarctic Fur Seal, and I tried to give it a wide berth, however, it didn't seem very happy as I approached. He had been lying down, but it rose up on its flippers vocalising and then turned to look at me, as if to say, "Back off! This is my beach!" I swiftly moved on, not wanting to aggravate it further.

On our way back to the ship, we detoured over to the low flat iceberg that we'd seen from land, to see the two seals hauled out on the top. It turned out they were Leopard Seals. It was great to see them up close out of the water, but, since they were both sleeping, I didn't take particularly great photos.

ZODIAC CRUISE

After lunch, the weather didn't improve, so rather than do another landing, we stayed in the general area and had a zodiac cruise instead. A Humpback Whale was spotted fairly near us, but was just below the surface, so we didn't know where it had gone or when it would resurface. My eyes were scouring the water looking for any spurts of water. Suddenly, I spotted the whale when it came up again. We had a lovely fairly close view of it as it prepared to dive down deep, showing off its characteristic humped back and small dorsal fin. Lastly, the tail came up just before it disappeared from sight. It was amazing to have such a good view from sea level.

One of the highlights of the zodiac cruise was finally seeing some Adélie Penguins. This was our seventh and final species of the trip. There weren't many of them, and they weren't easy to observe, let alone photograph, as they walked along the coast partially hidden by snow. As per usual, the constant bobbing up and down on the water made life so challenging in the zodiacs. But, we were thrilled to see them.

We heard, via radio, that some were coming down to the water. One of the other zodiacs were ahead of us and had a great view apparently. Our boat was manoeuvred around the rocky point and I was hoping we'd have better views ourselves. At first, the large boulders made it difficult to see them, but then three came out into the open. I was thrilled. To be honest, I'm amazed this photo came out as well as it did. They were gorgeous. They're such an elegant penguin with so few markings, just a white eye ring and a black head and back. This really made my day!

We then went over to check out some of the icebergs nearby. Someone else took a photo of our zodiac (below). Bob and I were in the front either side, on the left in the photo.

As we were starting to make our way back to the ship, I spotted a Leopard Seal on a different iceberg to earlier. Thankfully, our driver made a detour to see it. This one wasn't sleeping and we had some fabulous views of it.

We also went past the earlier iceberg, and that Leopard Seal was still sleeping!

This was the perfect end to an amazing day. The fact it was snowing was the icing on the cake. It really made for more atmospheric photos. Perhaps a little surprisingly, I hadn't even thought about the possibility it might be snowing down on the frozen continent - probably because we were heading into the summer and I was expecting more sunshine. But, the Antarctic is anything but predictable.

Next post in the series: Antarctica Day 2!

To see a smaller selection of my favourite photos from the holiday, click here .

To Antarctica

Fri, 18 Apr 2025 17:03:15 GMT

ONCE MORE AT SEA

Leaving South Georgia behind us, we ventured further south towards the frozen continent of Antarctica. It took us three days. Since we were the first voyage of the season, we had no idea what lay ahead. Would we see any Adélie Penguins? How much of the ice would have retreated? Would we actually be able to walk on the Antarctic Peninsula, which was where we were ultimately heading? Everything had been so good already, I didn't have high expectations. I was just open to whatever we would experience and enjoying it all.

Over the course of the three days we were at sea, we weren't able to be out on deck that often as the conditions weren't great. I certainly didn't take many photos. On our first day, though, I was pleased to take a few nice ones of a Blue Petrel flying close to the ship.

When it lifted its wings, I could easily see the band of grey around the collar/breast, which is characteristic of this species.

I went to a few of the talks on the first day and in the evening we had an auction to raise money for the South Georgia Heritage Trust. I bid for a few things, but didn't win anything. I wasn't too bothered, I mostly did it to get people going and in the end we raised £2,000, which was great. More importantly for me, it helped me decide which organisation I would make a donation to myself after the trip. Each year I produce Christmas cards and calendars to sell at my classes and, that evening, I decided all the profit from my next set of sales would go to this charity.

On the second day at sea, the wind was up to 35 knotts and the swell was about 5-6m. We thought that was quite bad, but apparently they were experiencing swell of 9m in South Georgia! Once again, luck was on our side, as we managed to avoid the worst of another weather system that was moving in behind us. As a result of the swell, we weren't allowed on deck for very long and when we were it was only at the aft of the ship. The only photos I took that day were of the sea spray! Unbelievably, I did manage to spot a whale some distance from the ship. But, at first I wasn't sure, because the jet of water blowing up from it look a bit like sea spray. But, when I saw a second burst of water in the same direction I knew it was a whale.

The highlight of the second day, 31st October, was how the staff on board the ship made an amazing effort for Halloween, dressing up in various costumes. The kitchen staff really went to town too, not only in decorating the dining area, but in doing special ghoulish looking desserts. They were very creative and as always the food was delicious.

On the third day, it wasn't quite so rough and we were able to be out on deck a bit more. I was able to take some nice photos of Southern Fulmars. In fact, at one point, there had to have been a raft of 100 of them gathered together a short distance from us.

We were also seeing larger numbers of Cape Petrel flying together. Although they were still amongst my favourite of the seabirds we were seeing, they were so plentiful, we didn't notice them or photograph them quite so much by this part of the journey.

As we were nearing land, it was also time to deal with the biosecurity again, and check and clean all our outdoor gear again.

With so many days at sea, for me there was definitely a sense of going to the end of the world. I imagined what it must have been like for those early explorers and adventurers who didn't know what lay ahead of them at all, before the Antarctic was discovered.

In the middle of the afternoon, we finally saw land, cloaked by a low lying mist that created a sense of mystery. There was an eeriness about the place, not least because we had reached Elephant Island in the South Shetlands Islands - part of a group of Antarctic islands 120km north of the peninsula. This was the island where Shackleton and his men had found temporary refuge after their ship the Endurance had been crushed by pack ice and eventually sunk in 1915. Twenty two of his men remained on the island, whilst Shackleton and four of his crew sailed back to South Georgia in an attempt to get help.

The uninhabited Elephant Island is named after the Elephant Seals that live there and also because it is shaped a bit like an elephant. We saw a few of the seals, but it was the Chinstrap Penguins that stole the show. Large snow covered rocks near the dramatic coast were littered with them, like little black ants in the distance.

Gradually, we edged closer. As was now becoming more common, we saw the penguins porpoising in the water away from us. Sometimes, the odd individual would stop and look up at us inquisitively.

We anchored at Point Wild, where Shackleton's crew had been stranded for 128 days before being rescued in August 1916. After checking it was safe, it was determined we would be able to have a short zodiac excursion before dinner and soon enough we were out in the boats. There were always two boats close together in case of any unexpected trouble occurring. This had been a common practice throughout our trip, but now we could really appreciate why, with so much brash ice in the water. There were small icebergs floating around too. The amazing blue colour was one of the things I'd been looking forward to seeing on this trip.

We were able to get a bit closer to the towering rocks within the bay and see more of the penguins. It always amazed me how they were able to climb so high up the peaks when there weren't any obvious gentle slopes for them to ascend.

We sailed around Point Wild so we could have a slightly better view of the Luis Pardo memorial. He was in the Chilean Navy and the man responsible for the rescue of Shackleton's men on the Yelcho . In fact, Point Wild was named after Frank Wild, who was Shackleton's right-hand man and left in charge of those men who stayed behind, whilst Shackleton sought help. He was reportedly the man responsible for keeping the morale up during their long four month wait for rescue.

There were Chinstrap Penguins all around us on the rocks and some were venturing out into the water. The rough sea didn't look exactly inviting and there were predators they had to be careful of...

...such as Leopard Seals. I spotted this one as we were coming back around the point. Sadly, it had already found a victim and was devouring it in front of us. As gruesome as it was, I took photos and actually managed to capture the moment the penguin was flung into the air, after the seal had torn off another piece of meat. There wasn't much left of the poor creature! I decided not to share it here because it really is quite disgusting. It's all part of the cycle of life, I know, but it's quite sad that one animal must perish to feed another.

We then headed back to the boat for our own dinner.

It was a long few days at sea and I was glad to finally have arrived in Antarctica. From Elephant Island we would be continuing south on to King George Island, just that bit closer to the mainland. The main focus of the day would be exploring Penguin Island.

Next post in the series: Antarctica Day 1!

To see a smaller selection of my favourite photos from the holiday, click here .

South Georgia Day 4

Tue, 08 Apr 2025 17:38:09 GMT

GOLD HARBOUR

The Plancius sailed down to the southern part of the island for our final day in South Georgia. It was yet another jam packed day and we had an early wake up call so we could fit everything in! First on the agenda was a landing at Gold Harbour. Even though we were seeing more of the same species we'd already seen, it turned out to be a fabulous place. In fact, it was probably one of my favourite landings. It's a compact beach filled to the brim with wildlife. I felt so close to it all, and unlike the day before, we were at ground level with most of it. This felt much more special.

As was so often the case with our landings, the first wildlife we came across were the Elephant Seals on the beach. There were more youngsters stealing my attention, with those gorgeous big black eyes.

This "weaner" was probably trying to regulate its body temperature by flicking cooler sand onto its back.

The adults were also keeping an eye on us as we walked passed.

I loved these three females vocalising. They look like they're having a right laugh!

There were lots of Elephant Seals strewn across the beach, lazily lying on the black sand. They were easy to mistake for rocks, so you really had to pay attention to where you walked!

There is a large breeding colony of King Penguins at Gold Harbour, with over 26,000 breeding pairs. As we'd found at other sites, there were many adults, juveniles and chicks all found at the same location.

I t was amazing to see how fearless the penguins were, walking right up to us at times. Who is watching who? Thankfully, all the way in these remote parts, the wildlife doesn't fear humans. I hope it stays that way. I loved watching this one as it flapped its wings. Of course, these wings aren't any good for flying. They resemble flippers and are meant for swimming.

At the end of the walk, we reached the main colony and where the bulk of the chicks were bunched up together. They were always a joy to see, also flapping their wings, having a shake and calling out...ever hungry and waiting patiently - or perhaps not so patiently - for one of their parents to return with food. Some definitely looked more well fed than others.

Amongst the King Penguins and chicks we spotted a few Gentoo Penguins. You can see how much smaller they are, even compared to the chicks. Plus, you can also appreciate just how large the massive Elephant Seals are too!

Nearby there were two female Elephant Seals having a good snooze. Our group were so close to them, but they kept sleeping, totally oblivious to us and unperturbed.

As we retraced our steps slowly back along the beach, we stopped alongside a mass of moulting penguins by the river.

It certainly was a dramatic place, with the glacier visible on the mountains behind the beach.

In terms of our flying friends, we'd seen even more Brown Skuas on the beach, plenty of Giant Petrels, a few South Georgia Pipits again and these wonderful Light Mantled Sooty Albatross. They were synchronised as they were flying together, which is part of their courtship display.

I'd just been thinking to myself, wouldn't it be great to see a King Penguin coming ashore and moments later it literally happened. You can see how it uses its wings to help move into an upright position.

After a really wonderful morning landing we headed back to the boat. I was starting to feel hungry and wondering what time lunch would be. Then I realised, we hadn't had breakfast yet!

COOPER'S BAY

After refueling ourselves, we went back out on the zodiacs for a cruise around Cooper's Bay. Chinstrap and Gentoo Penguins were porpoising near our boat quite often, but usually moving away from us. I struggled to take any photos as I was often in the wrong position too. But, eventually, I was lucky!

Unfortunately, our boat wasn't taken closer to the shoreline, but I was able to capture this rather lovely moment when a Chinstrap Penguin waddled past a female Elephant Seal and her pup. It was just starting to snow too! I love the snow and was thrilled we had some of the white stuff, though it can make it tricky for taking photos!

We were also fortunate enough to witness a battle on the beach between two large male Elephant Seals. They both had lots of battle scars on them already. One of these two might even have been the 'Beachmaster'. They were loud and aggressive. You can even see the red in the eye of the one on the right. Despite their size, they were shifting around on the beach with surprising ease, and swinging themselves towards their opponent with amazing power.

Look at all the hot air they're exhaling. They were doing a lot of deep vocalising that could be heard all along the beach.

Things had just settled down between them, when we heard that a group in another zodiac had spotted a Leopard Seal around in the next bay. This was a new species for our trip, and so we quickly headed over to join them, along with a few other boats that were close enough to get there quickly. There was no sign of it at first. Then our driver tapped his foot a few times on the floor, in the hopes that would get its attention. It worked. Suddenly, right alongside us, less than a metre away, the Leopard Seal rose up out of the water nose first. Luckily, I spotted it in a gap between two people sitting on the other side of the boat to me and quickly took a photo just in time, as the seal was going down. Within seconds it had disappeared again.

We waited around for quite a while, but it didn't resurface much, and when it did, it wasn't that close to our boat. I only managed to get one other good photo before we moved on.

We continued moving on to the other end of the bay and were equally thrilled to discover there were some Macaroni Penguins climbing up a steep snow-covered hill just behind the beach. This was one penguin species we'd struggled to get decent sightings of. With only two previous sightings, which were either distant or brief, I was so pleased we had a better view at last. I was amazed how high they were climbing up. That's when I realised there were already some at the top of the hill just to the left amongst the tussock grass.

We saw another one on the rocks close to the beach, but it was tricky to photograph. Once again, it was proving difficult getting a close shot. Then, as luck would have it, there was one solitary one on a rocky island just a little distance out from the beach. It posed beautifully for us for quite some time. It might have been wondering what all the fuss was about, with several zodiacs surrounding the rock. After a while, it started to waddle and hop down the rock towards us and I was able to see it fully. Fabulous!

Gradually, it made its way down to the water and jumped in!

It was the perfect way to end our morning!

DRYGALSKI FJORD

From Cooper's Bay the ship sailed into Drygalski Fjord. With towering mountains either side of us, and countless glaciers, it was impressive. The water was also a stunning blue colour.

I love the blue ice of the glaciers.

Whilst we were making our way towards the Jenkins Glacier at the end of the fjord, I saw two sections of glacier break away. They were very small in size, but still created quite a splash in the water.

There were quite a few Snow Petrels seen flying around our ship. We were now travelling relatively slowly, so it was wonderful to have a good opportunity to photograph these beautiful birds.

When we reached Jenkins Glacier (below) everyone on board was invited up onto the top deck to have a hot drink. Bob and I enjoyed a toast to celebrate our trip so far. South Georgia far exceeded both our expectations. We'd seen some amazing wildlife and stunning scenery. It really had been an unforgettable experience already. Just knowing that Bird Flu and bad weather could have impacted the number of landings that were possible, made me all the more grateful. It was certainly a risk being the first boat in these waters at the start of the summer season, but thankfully for us, it had paid off. I had no idea what experiences would be in store for us in Antarctica itself, and though I was sad to leave South Georgia, I was also eager to travel further south.

Next post in series: To Antarctica!

To see a smaller selection of my favourite photos from the holiday, click here .

South Georgia Day 3

Wed, 02 Apr 2025 21:21:46 GMT

At some ungodly hour during the night, the anchor was raised and we left Grytviken. Sleeping in one of the front cabins in the aft of the ship, as we were, meant the noise of the anchor movement, either up or down, was extremely loud and it woke us both up. The ship sailed towards St Andrews Bay whilst most of us on board were still sleeping. There was quite a bit of swell along the way and the chair in our cabin fell over. For the most part though, things didn't slide around or fall off the shelves, because the cabin was so well designed. There were either non slip mats on the shelves or a lip at the edge, and sometimes both. In fact, we were impressed with all these small little touches, especially the raised sides to our beds so we couldn't fall out when asleep.

The temperature in the morning was only 1°C. There was no wind, but unfortunately, the swell was too high for a landing in St Andrews Bay. We were gutted. This was not the news we wanted to wake up to. We had to switch to Plan B. This meant swapping our day around and heading back north to Godthul, which was actually only just around the corner (relatively speaking) from where we'd been the day before in Grytviken. We just had to hope and pray the swell would be less later on when we returned to St Andrews Bay.

GODTHUL

On our way to Godthul, we were happily distracted when we spotted some Orcas (Killer Whales). There seemed to be two swimming all over the place, clearly feeding. It was a mother and calf. It was virtually impossible to predict where they were going to emerge. One time, one appeared so close to the boat, but it was gone by the time I took a photo. Of the many times they swiftly but gently glided through the water at the surface, I was only able to get one semi-decent photo. At least there's a Cape Petrel and two Giant Petrels to help provide some scale.

We then proceeded onwards towards the bay and I was lucky to get a fairly nice photo of a King Penguin in the calm water. I love the reflection of its head. I think this might be a young one because the orange colour on the underside of its bill is a less vibrant orange.

The first landing was by about 9am. This was the adventurous group. They headed off first because they needed more time. They were walking up to one of the highest points in the bay. Bob and I opted for the less strenuous option to see the Gentoo penguin colonies and weren't ashore until just before 10am.

As was so often the case, when we first landed on the beach, we were greeted by a large number of Elephant Seals. This youngster was suckling from its mother.

Although we weren't doing the really tough ascent, it was certainly a challenge walking up to higher ground. The hill was quite steep and there were lots of tall grassy tussocks to work around. We took it slowly and carefully and eventually were on a less steep area. There was a fair amount of excitement amongst those closest to us, because we could hear and then see the South Georgia Pipit. It had been eluding us for the last two days and the keen birders in the group were getting a bit nervous they'd never see one. There were actually two, probably a pair. At first, they would fly off and only land some distance away, but gradually they came a bit closer, only to disappear low down in the dense long grasses, so they were virtually impossible to see and photograph. Then suddenly, one appeared not too far away and didn't fly off. We just had enough time to grab a photo. With a bit more patience (and a little time on our return walk as well) we were able to take some fairly nice photos of this lovely endemic bird species.

Bob and I were walking up to the higher of the two Gentoo Penguin populations without hardly anyone else in sight. The staggered landings help make that possible, but also, I suspect quite a few people stayed on the boat on account of the difficult walk.

During the morning, we saw more Brown Skuas and also several South Georgia Pintail. They'd now become such a regular sighting on our walks, it was no longer surprising. This encounter with the Pintail was my favourite because of them being on the snow.

There were two small colonies of Gentoos nesting close together. A smaller group higher up and a larger one lower down. The snow had melted around them and you could see several penguins were lying on their nests, presumably incubating eggs.

This one looks like it has the prime spot.

As I perused the group of penguins, I'd try and keep an eye open for any interesting or unusual behaviour. Sometimes, I'd spot some preening, or one of them would be vocalising. Their bright orange beaks are certainly very striking when they open wide.

I always enjoyed watching those that were waddling around the colony carrying nesting material in their beaks.

Although we'd seen lots of penguin activity by now and quite a lot of Gentoos, there's always something that would pique our interest. On this occasion, Bob spotted a pair of Gentoos mating. It was wonderful to see them interact with each other. It was a very touching moment. I did feel a bit bad that it wasn't exactly private!

There was a lovely view of our ship in the bay, the Plancius, from this higher vantage point.

ST ANDREWS BAY

Whilst we ate our lunch, the ship was sailed back to St Andrews Bay. The question on everyone's mind was still, Will we be able to land? Having already missed out on Salisbury Plain when we first reached South Georgia, our hopes now lay on this bay, which is considered the largest King Penguin colony with about 150,000 pairs. We'd lost precious time with all the extra sailing and time was ticking away. Around 2.30pm we were tantalisingly close to land. We waited anxiously to hear the news on a decision. The captain maneouvred the ship into a better position and in the end we were given the thumbs up. I think it was a rather dubious thumbs up, because getting on and off the zodiacs at the side of the ship was decidedly dicey. With the swell still moving up and down significantly, we had to time our step from the platform onto the zodiac with precision. They weren't always level. The zodiac would suddenly drop down much lower - too low - so we had to wait for the swell to raise it up again and then go for it.

There were more challenges ahead when we tried to go ashore. There were several large male Elephant Seals on the beach and in the water, right where we we wished to land. It wasn't a good time for them to be curious about us and come closer for an inspection. They weren't agressive towards us. We just had to be patient and wait for a good opportunity to head in. By this time, it was about 4pm, so much later than our usual landings. But, even so, we were given plenty of time to really savour being there.

Fairly soon after our arrival, we spotted two of the male Elephant Seals starting to size each other up. They'd raise up their bodies parrallel to each other, grunting and moaning. Then they started to get more aggressive as they slammed into each other, repeatedly. They don't appear to have massive teeth, but there are certainly a lot of scars around their head as a result of these bouts. Neither of these were the beachmaster (dominant male). They were just two youngsters practice fighting.

It will come as no surprise we saw A LOT of King Penguins. I was pleased to see there was still quite a bit of snow too.

There were several young Antarctic Fur Seals, including this one that was on the move. It looks like it's all quite a bit of an effort, with the two front flippers doing most of the work.

The fur seals, as with all sea lions, have small external ear flaps, which you can see below. True Seals lack these ear flaps. It's just one of the main ways you can tell the difference between them.

It was really lovely watching some of the youngsters playing fighting together quite close to us.

As always, we were instructed to follow the red markers that had been planted along a safe route for us to walk. Staff members kept an eye out for any encroaching wildlife which might have necessitated moving a marker. It was worth keeping an eye open in all directions, even behind you, as we were often being followed.

T here were lots of mature adults, but amongst them there were also juveniles moulting. There were feathers on the ground virtually everywhere!

One of my favourite sections was when we reached the river and saw large numbers of King Penguins lining the edge of it. I was trying to find a way to capture the moment and then I suddenly spotted one penguin stoop down and take a drink of water.

After crossing the river we continued to walk upwards to a high point on the beach. From there we could see the end of a glacier in the distance and the proglacial lake in front of it, where the glacier has retreated. There was a lot of debris on the top of the glacier and also embedded within it, that will one day be left behind as the retreating continues.

Looking further inland I saw hundreds of penguins standing on what looks like a frozen lake.

We continued onwards and upwards until we reached this amazing lookout over the main bulk of the colony. There were thousands of King Penguins in all directions with plenty of chicks still adorning their brown fluffy down feathers. It was a truly breathtaking view.

Now consider the noise they were all making. I tried to capture the moment on video, but I'm not sure you'll be able to hear the sound as it doesn't work on all devices. But, if you've ever wondered what a King Penguin sounds like, just listen to the sound as you unzip a coat or jacket! It's pretty close!

It's the sheer volume of penguins that is so spellbinding!

We stayed at the lookout for quite a while, really soaking it up before beginning our return journey back to the beach, which was quite a bit quicker. There was still plenty of Elephant Seal activity near the water. This giant male looked like the beachmaster (below). You can even see his breath as he bellows and moans, asserting his dominance. It certainly looks as though he has quite a few battle scars. We were also treated to more males having practice battles as we were walking the final stretch towards our depature point. Leaving the beach was looking as problematic as our arrival had been, with the same big Elephant Seals moving about in the water right where the zodiacs were trying to come ashore. Of course, the wildlife has the right of way. It's their home after all. We just had to be patient. Eventually, they moved away allowing us the space to depart.

It was nearly 8pm by the time we reached the ship, so we had to head to dinner almost as soon as we were back on board. As always, there was lots of chatter at the dinner table, sharing our experiences from the day. However, it was announced we'd be having a 5.30am wake up call the next morning - our final one on South Georgia, so we retired to bed early. Having seen so much, I wondered what else could possibly top it all?

Next post in series: South Georgia Day 4!

To see a smaller selection of my favourite photos from the holiday, click here .

South Georgia Day 2

Sun, 16 Mar 2025 17:07:59 GMT

HERCULES BAY

For our first full day in South Georgia, we were greeted by blue skies above. Early in the morning, we embarked on our first zodiac cruise around Hercules Bay to see what wildlife could be found. When I say early - it was 5am! Our boats were dwarfed by the towering mountains that loomed above the bay. You can just about see one of the zodiacs in the lower middle part of this photo.

A handful of Gentoo and Chinstrap Penguins were on the snow covered beaches and Antarctic Fur Seals were resting on the rocks around the bay, basking in the sun. We were also treated to some nice views of the Light-Mantled Sooty Albatross as they flew overhead and then landed high up on the cliff walls.

I was thrilled we finally had a close up view of a Chinstrap Penguin. This one was on its own, working its way down the craggy rocks, hopping from one spot to another, trying to make its way down to the water. There was a lot of slip sliding! To be honest, I'm amazed this photo is even in focus. Trust me, it isn't easy taking photos of wildlife, whilst sitting on an inflatable boat that is moving with the swell of the water. I'm sure it has everything to do with the quality of the camera and not my skill! I just kept snapping away, hoping some of the frames were in focus. One minute the penguin would be in the centre of the frame, the next, it was half out of the frame and I had mostly water in the shot!

There was a chance of seeing some Macaroni Penguins at this location. The only one we'd seen so far was on the Falkland Islands, hiding amongst the Rockhoppers, and quite some distance from us. Unfortunately, the tussock grasses in Hercules Bay were obscuring any Macaroni that were hiding. We were obviously too early in the season for the large numbers that can be seen. My eyes scoured the tussock clumps for quite some time, especially as someone in one of the earlier zodiacs ahead of us had spotted a Macaroni. Thankfully, we did get lucky, but it was only a brief glimpse of one. It virtually popped its head up for a few seconds and then disappeared again. I'm not even sure if everyone on our boat saw it. I just hoped we'd have another opportunity to see this species a bit closer another time.

STROMNESS

Whilst eating breakfast we sailed on to Stromness, where we could see an old abandoned whaling station. The sight was a stark reminder of a by-gone era when many whale species were hunted to the brink of extinction in the Antarctic Ocean, back in the 20th century.

The old rusty buildings were all out of bounds, though I had no interest in taking a closer look anyway. I was more interested in the wildlife that seemed to have made this part of the island their home, including the Southern Elephant Seals and Antarctic Fur Seals. Some were curious...

...and others had more important things to do, like sleeping!

A lot of the passengers walked to the waterfall located at the far end of the valley. Bob and I were amongst one of the later groups to land in the bay, so we didn't have time for that. I wasn't that disappointed, as the wildlife is always a joy to watch.

From the beach, we walked up the hill towards a small colony of Gentoo Penguins and could at least enjoy the view of the valley from this vantage point.

The Gentoo Penguins were fun to watch. Some of them were wondering away from the nest site, only to return moments later carrying rocks or clumps of soil in their beak. Some were more active than others. They appeared to be already paired up, by the looks of things. As we'd seen on the Falkland Islands, I daresay the adults lying down were incubating eggs already.

When we returned to the beach, we wandered along towards the far end. I then spotted a lone King Penguin coming out of the water and making its way towards a small expanse of snow. I headed over towards it and enjoyed watching as it started to eat the snow.

It was amazing to see how it maneouvred itself from lying down to standing up. With its beak planted into the snow, it pushed its body up with a little help of the wings spread out to the side.

Also along the beach, there were several pairs of what we believed to be Antarctic Terns flying along the shallow water. They would hover above, looking for fish to swim along. When one was spotted, the tern would suddenly dive down to grab it with its beak, immersing only its head, rather than its whole body.

For the most part, they appeared to be successful, grabbing their prey and swallowing the tiny fish whole. But, there were times the slippery little suckers got away. Look just below this one's bill and you'll see an escapee.

We then began to wander back towards the zodiacs to return to the Plancius. Dotted all along the beach were several large male Elephant Seals that we had to avoid.

GRYTVIKEN

Our final stop of the day was at Grytviken, another old whaling station and abandoned factory town. Just like at Stromness, it's the wildlife that live there year round. Only in the summer months are there human inhabitants who run the South Georgia Museum and Post Office. At various times during the year there may also be researchers and military personnel. In fact, it was here that we had our biosecurity inspection. A couple of people came aboard to do some random checks as we were preparing to take the zodiacs ashore. Thankfully, we all passed the inspection.

The first place we visited on the island was the grave of the explorer Ernest Shackleton.

All those passengers visiting the gravesite were given a complimentary shot of whiskey, courtesy of Oceanwide Expeditions. Bob didn't have the bottle, despite what it looks like! For me, the occasion was more memorable because a South Georgia Pintail flew overhead whilst we were standing by the gravestone and decided to poop over my jacket, binoculars and mobile phone! Ew!

We walked back towards the town, passing several more fur seals along the water's edge. They look very different when they've just come out of the water.

We also saw several more Antarctic Terns. There were a few pairs nesting beside the pathway, with one of the adults incubating eggs.

The church at the back of the abandoned town.

After wandering around for a while, Bob and I returned to the graveyard, so we could spend more time watching the Elephant Seals, which were nearby. We patiently waited for a bit of activity. These large mammals spend a lot of time sleeping.

The males are particularly impressive when they start vocalising. If you look closely, you can see the breath coming out of its mouth.

I'm not sure what this other male was doing, but as it was swimming around the shallow water, it would occasionally breathe out through its probiscis nose with force. I found it quite amusing watching the water splashing below its nose as a result.

Not far from him, there were a handful of Antarctic Fur Seals resting on the rocks and play fighting in the water. The youngsters were really fun to watch. I particularly like this photo as it looks like it is sticking out its tongue!

It was a very full on day, with three outings in the zodiacs, including two landings. The Oceanwide staff leader, Ali, had been keen to make the most of the good weather and conditions. She also wanted to make up for lost time at the start of the trip. We certainly had some more wonderful wildlife encounters.With two more days working our way along the South Georgia coast, there was still more ahead of us.

We had the perfect end to that day, whilst we were stilled anchored in Grytviken, enjoying a barbeque on the back deck of the ship. Some trestle tables and seats had been laid out, though it was a bit of a tight squeeze to seat everyone. Some people chose to eat indoors as it was a bit nippy, but Bob and I made sure we had some extra layers on. There was a great atmosphere and lots of chatter. At times it was hard for me to hear the person sitting across from me as the music was a bit loud - it was a bit too techno and new for my taste. Give me 80s music and older and I'm much happier! After the food, there was a bit of dancing, so of course I joined in for a short spell. Then Bob and I decided to make our way to the front of the ship. I was amazed we could hardly hear the music from the other side. We enjoyed the relative peace and quiet, looking out across the bay and up at the night sky. It was lovely. What a way to end a wonderful day!

Next post in series: South Georgia Day 3!

To see a smaller selection of my favourite photos from the holiday, click here .

Fortuna Bay

Tue, 11 Mar 2025 17:16:03 GMT

SEEING THE KING PENGUINS UP CLOSE

When we reached Fortuna Bay, we had to wait to find out if we'd be able to land. The usual procedure was for one Zodiac boat to be lowered into the water. A member of the crew would go out in it to determine how safe it would be for a landing. When we finally heard the announcement over the tannoy that we would be landing, we were thrilled and eager to go.

There was a gorgeous Antarctic Fur Seal in the water close to where we were disembarking and it seemed quite curious, watching us. It looks like it's winking at us in this photo.

Our first Elephant Seal was a bit gruesome. It was lying on the beach and had clearly been involved in a battle with another male. Its proboscis was badly cut. It wasn't the beachmaster - the name given to the dominant male - but probably a younger one practice fighting with another, preparing for the day it may challenge the dominant male for the right to mate with the females.

Very quickly we started seeing King Penguins coming ashore. They really do walk in lines much of the time, which was quite comical to see!

They would often gather in groups, whether to rest, sleep, preen or generally watch the world go by.

I noticed they often stood still on the hind part of their feet, with the majority of the foot not touching the ground. I'm quite sure this tactic is to keep themselves warm. Since they don't have feathers on their feet, it is wise if as little as possible is touching the cold ground beneath them. It may look like it's sunny and warm, but I'm sure the temperature was no more than 4°C and would have been much colder at night.

King Penguins have such a distinct orange strip on the base of the bill, and also behind the eye and a small patch at the top of its chest. However, I did notice that some of the penguins didn't have such a vibrant orange on the bill, which would suggest a more juvenile penguin that hasn't yet reached full maturity.

It was quite fascinating watching them preen themselves, as other birds do, to keep their feathers in good condition. Sometimes, they would use a foot to scratch their head, which was an impressive balancing act.

W e were so lucky with the weather as it was lovely and sunny. The colour of the water was beautiful and the light on the penguins was fabulous. Bob and I particularly enjoyed photographing this pair that looked one way, then the other, then at each other, before moving on.

The landscape was dramatic and beautiful, even though it was stark and cold. It was interesting to see that not all of South Georgia is permanently under the cover of snow year round.

We didn't just see mammals in Fortuna Bay. We spotted a pair of Brown Skuas. One was scrambling up out of a small stream giving a lovely view of its wings, before turning around.

We were pleased to see the endemic South Georgia Pintail a few times: on one of the ponds, flying overhead and also on this hilly mound at the back of the beach.

Whilst many of the group stayed on the lower ground to see the King Penguins up close, Bob and I ventured up onto higher ground first. It was a bit steeper and more challenging, but it was lovely having a different perspective looking down. We were still able to benefit from the last of the afternoon light. But, the penguins below us were already standing in the shadow of the mountains that towered behind us.

We then back tracked down to where there were lots of King Penguin chicks - large bundles of brown fluff! It was quite noisy. They were clearly hungry and waiting for one of their parents to return to feed them.

The crew members had set up a path of red way markers for us to follow, to keep us a safe distance from the wildlife. Only, the wildlife didn't always take heed of them. Some of the chicks were quite inquisitive and would walk up towards us. Thankfully, they didn't seem scared or stressed. They simply seemed curious.

Hungry chicks would often call out to any adult passing, and open their bill as if asking, 'Feed me!' However, whenever I witnessed this, it clearly wasn't their parent. Mostly, their calls, open beak and pleading eyes were ignored. Sometimes, a passing adult being accosted by a chick became quite aggressive with the youngster and would peck at it.

The chicks were obviously just trying their luck, because only their parent would feed them. With so many chicks on the beach, it's amazing to think that the parent finds its offspring at all. However, each penguin has their own unique individual call and can recognise the call of their chick!

It was possible to see juvenile penguins at different stages of their development. Whilst there were many brown chicks, there were also older ones who were already moulting into their adult plumage. It was fascinating to see them half and half. Once more, you can see how both these youngsters have a slightly reddish tinge to their lower beak, as they've not yet fully matured.

With the light fast disappearing, Bob and I began a slow amble back towards our landing point. We passed more penguins preening or simply resting with their heads tucked down.

Whilst others went for the horozontal approach!

There were quite a few more of the Antarctic Fur Seals in the rocky area closer to our landing site. Some pups were seen play fighting in amongst the tussock grasses.

We then spotted this penguin really struggling to walk. From the colouration of the bill, it looks like a juvenile that has probably only just matured. It's entirely possible it isn't used to walking yet with what looks like a belly full of fish. It staggered for a few paces and then fell down. This happened repeatedly. At first, it was a bit concerning, but it seemed to manage and we were later reassured by one of the crew members that it wasn't likely to be ill.

We passed another group of penguins returning from the water. You can see that some of them have been more successful fishing than others. The one leading the group certainly has a good belly full!

Just before we left Fortuna Bay, the last of the light was shining on the mountains in the distance and reflecting beautifully in a pool of water. I was pleased to capture this last image.

We might not have seen the vast numbers of King Penguins we could have seen at Salisbury Plain, but, we'd had some lovely close encounters and gorgeous light. Bob and I left very happy having thoroughly enjoyed our afternoon. The bad weather that was ahead of us, seemed to be leaving some lovely weather in its wake. I remained hopeful that we would have more landings in South Georgia and more amazing wildlife encounters.

Next post in the series: South Georgia Day 2

To see a smaller selection of my favourite photos from the holiday, click here .

Travelling to South Georgia

Wed, 26 Feb 2025 15:54:19 GMT

AT SEA ONCE MORE

With two more days at sea before we would reach South Georgia, there was ample opportunity to look for wildlife along the way and practice photographing flying birds...even the small ones! But, before we could fully focus on that, we had to prepare for reaching South Georgia in terms of biosecurity. All our outdoor clothing, including our boots and rucksacks had to be meticulously cleaned and then checked by a member of staff. South Georgia take their biosecurity very seriously and we would even have someone come aboard our ship in Grytviken to do random checks to make sure we weren't bringing ashore any seeds, dirt or bacteria etc that could potentially be harmful to their nature flora and fauna. All visitors to the island have to go through this process.

With that out of the way, we could get out on deck again and focus on the wildlife around us. We had more whale sightings. Some people were lucky enough to have some close encounters and see tail flukes as the whales dived down, but it was all a matter of timing. You had to be out on deck at just the right time and on the right side of the boat to see it. The birders were almost always out, keeping an eye open for interesting birds flying by, so it wasn't suprising they had the most luck with the whales too. However, I was pleased to see two Humpback Whales together. Their dorsal fin is a lot smaller than other whales.

We continued to see dolphins too. One time, when Bob and I were on the bow of the ship, we could see a small group of Peale's Dolphins swimming towards us. It was as if they intentionally wanted to ride alongside us. The weather was much better for a while and the water so much clearer. It was fabulous to see them just by the hull of the ship, beneath the surface. It was quite a reach over the edge to see them porposing, but I managed just this one semi-okay photo!

The birds were our constant companions on the voyage. Whilst we had some nice light, I was able to take a photo of a Blue Petrel flying past. Its grey feathers and pattern resemble a Prion more than the Petrels we'd being seeing. It was also quite a bit smaller (62-71cm). Unfortunately, the nice light didn't last, so I didn't get many other good photos of birds in flight. There were still plenty of Cape Petrels seen and another new species was added to our list with sightings of the Atlantic Petrels. Here you can see two flying by. Their average wingspan is 104cm.

All of these were new species for me and Bob, and we both enjoyed photographing them, though he stuck with it a bit longer than I did and has some cracking shots, which you can see on his blog . He particularly loves the Northern Fulmars, which he can see locally on the coast of East Sussex. I've also seen them in the Arctic, when I went on my first photographic holiday. Down south, it was the Southern Fulmars we saw. They're slightly bigger than their cousins with a wingspan of about 110-120cm, so these were another of the larger bird species we saw flying around the boat.

Bigger still were the Albatrosses and once again we had some lovely encounters. Although we were still seeing good numbers of Black-browed Albatross, they'd now become a bit passé and were no longer 'new'! Our attention was more focused on the other species we occasionally saw, including the mighty Southern Royal Albatross. At least one came quite a bit closer than previously, so I was really glad to have such better photos.

It's easier to appreciate the white leading edge of their wings in both these photos. Plus, check out that amazing wingspan! It's such an immense bird. Stunning!

We were also treated to a few other lovely sightings. The Light Mantled Sooty Albatross was a lovely dark coloured bird with a small arc of pale feathers just behind the eye. It's one of the smaller sized Albatross with a wingspan of only 2m!!! Yes, I know - not exactly small!!! I think this might have been the only one we saw at sea.

We also saw a handful of Grey-headed Albatross flying by (above) which are marginally bigger with a wingspan of 2.2m. It's another beauty, with its elegant eyes and distinct black bill that has yellow upper and lower ridges and a pink-orange tip. I think this one might have been my favourite of the Albatross species we saw. (You can see another photo at the bottom of this page with its wings outstretched.)

The weather on our journey was very changeable. Sometimes we'd experience a pocket of sunshine and other times the clouds and mist almost enveloped us and we could barely see any distance from the ship. The sea conditions were thankfully okay though, and we were allowed out on deck most of the time. On our last morning at sea it was quite murky looking and very poor light. But, we were treated to sightings of Antarctic Fur Seals sleeping in the water. They were just bobbing at the surface, seemingly holding flipper to tail. As soon as they heard the ship though, unlike the dolphins that swam towards us, they swam and porpoised away.

When we were approaching South Georgia we had our first sightings of Snow Petrels. They literally are all white. They weren't as small as the Prions, but not as large as the Fulmars, with a wingspan of about 75-95cm.

I noticed it was much colder the closer we were to South Georgia, though I don't think the temperature had dropped below freezing. When we started seeing icebergs float past the ship, there was a real sense of where we were. They were large. Larger than our vessel, and that's just considering the portion above water. I've read that 87% of its mass is below water.

Finally, South Georgia came into sight and although its peaks were consumed by the clouds, we could at least see and appreciate the dramatic coast.

At this point Bob and I were at the aft of the ship on the starboard side, admiring the coastline. Then suddenly someone shouted, 'Iceberg!', and we looked behind us. A really large amazing blue iceberg was alongside us, not too far away. It was the most stunningly beautiful iceberg I've ever seen. It's the kind I'd dreamed of laying eyes on and photographing. We rushed to the port side and started snapping away completely in awe. It was mesmerizing. Then, as the back portion glided past us we all saw a small group of Chinstrap Penguins on the top. Amazing! It was our first time seeing this species, so that in itself was special, but to see them on the iceberg was like the icing on the cake! A photographers dream shot!

We all were wondering how on earth they got up there and more importantly, how were they going to get down? I'm not sure I would have wanted to slide head first down the side of the iceberg into the water, even if I were a penguin!

Soon after this, someone said they'd spotted a King Penguin in the water. Suddenly, my eyes were scouring the ocean, trying to catch my first glimpse of yet another penguin species. It didn't take me long before I saw a few, then a few more, and sometimes even groups of them. Magical! The yellow-orange patch behind the head and orange on the bill make them quite distinct from the other species, let along their size - 85-95cm. They are the second largest species of penguin after the Emperor Penguins. As an aside, we wouldn't be seeing the Emperor Penguins on our trip as they breed in a different area of the Antarctic than where we were heading. Although there was always a chance we might see a lone one swimming around the waters nearer the Antarctic Peninsula, we never did.

Porpoising dolphins used to be one of my favourite wildlife spectacles, but now porpoising penguins has taken over.

The excitement was really building up as we sailed closer towards Salisbury Plain. It's home to the second largest King Penguin colony in South Georgia and one of the largest in the world. There are an estimated 60,000 pairs breeding at this site. As we approached land, we saw masses of them on the beach and on the snow covered hills. All the tiny black specks are penguins!

The brown ones are the chicks! They are dependent on the adults for 14 months before they're ready to leave the breeding site and fend for themselves. This means you can always see chicks at breeding sites at any time of year.

We were so close, and yet, we weren't able to land. Sadly, the conditions weren't safe for the Zodiacs to be used - the swell was too high - and we had to abandon the hope of seeing this colony up close. It was really disappointing. We had no idea if there would be another opportunity like it and even if there were, might the conditions prohibit us again? It was a very real possibility. Someone Bob knew who'd been to South Georgia the previous 'summer' season only had one landing on the island, though I believe Bird Flu was the main reason for this. As we were amongst the first people to be visiting the island at the start of the season, we were at least more optimistic that Bird Flu was not an issue for us. But the weather? That remained to be seen!

I was glad we were at least able to enjoy seeing them at a distance before we left the site.

Thankfully, we were distracted for a time, by the attentions of some Snowy Sheathbills that not only landed on the ship, but also on people's heads!

Although we couldn't land at Salisbury Plain, not all hope was lost. There was a chance we might be able to land at Fortuna Bay, just a little further along the coast. It was in a more sheltered position, so the chances were better. It would be lovely to see the King Penguins there, though the size of the colony was tiny in comparison, with a mere 4,000 breeding pairs. But, at that point, I would have been happy with whatever we saw.

I tried to remain optimistic and hopeful, as the ship sailed onwards. It stayed closer to the coast and it was lovely to be able to enjoy the stunning views of the snowy mountains and the glaciers below.

The day was slipping away and we knew we'd have limited time when we reached Fortuna Bay, even if we were able to land. Despite this, I was still very excited about what lay ahead over the next few days. Even if we couldn't land, I knew that going on Zodiac cruises was an option potentially and we'd still get to see lots. In fact, when I reflected on what we'd already seen, I was really happy. We were hopeful of seeing 7 different species of penguin on this trip and we'd already seen 6 of them by this point: Magellanic, Rockhopper, Gentoo, Macaroni, Chinstrap and King Penguins. The final species for us to see would be Adélie Penguins, however, they breed mostly in the Antarctic, so we'd have to wait longer to see them.

Next post in the series: Fortuna Bay

To see a smaller selection of my favourite photos from the holiday, click here .

Travelling to the Falkland Islands

Sun, 23 Feb 2025 18:28:59 GMT

DEPARTING PUERTO MADRYN

The plan was to have two days at sea, heading towards the Falkland Islands. But, sometimes things don't go according to plan. Unfortunately, someone on board the ship had a serious medical condition and needed to be transported safely back to land, so they could receive the full medical attention they needed in hospital. We'd been warned of this possibility on the very first evening on board, during our briefing. In such situations the boat becomes the ambulance. Prior to our trip, I'd also heard stories of this happening and how the trip could be cut short as a result of it. Obviously, there was concern for the person in question and some days later we discovered their situation improved and they were doing well at the hospital, which was good to hear.

The fact this happened right at the start of the trip was actually the best scenario. We weren't too far away from South America and were able to head to land at Comodoro Rivadavia. After safely evacuating the guest, we continued on to the Falkland Islands and we had just one extra day at sea. At that first briefing, we'd also been warned about a nasty weather system that was slightly ahead of us, so having the delay actually worked to our advantage. If we'd been further ahead on our voyage, we probably would have had to sit tight in port somewhere else to wait for it to pass through.

During the days at sea, Bob and I enjoyed being out on deck with some of our fellow passengers, spotting the wildlife. Some people preferred to do this from the comfort of the observation lounge indoors. Others simply kept to themselves in their cabin. In the lounge area, there was also a varied mix of talks given throughtout the day, by the members of the staff. I attended a few, as it helped pass the time, but generally I preferred to be outside, as did Bob.

It wasn't too cold those first few days and the seas were fairly calm. Whenever we needed to warm up after being out on deck for a while, we'd head indoors. There was an endless supply of hot drinks and at tea time there was always some kind of delicious cake available.

We both enjoyed the wildlife watching, even though there were long periods of not much happening. I kept a keen eye out for vertical spurts of water coming from whales close to the surface of the sea. They were often very far away and not worth photographing, but this Sei Whale was a little closer to our ship. It is the third largest whale species in the world, behind the Blue and Fin Whales.

The Giant Petrels were amongst the many different birds we saw either passing or circling our boat. This one (above) is a Southern Giant Petrel and you can tell because of the greenish tinge to the tip of the beak. Its range overlaps slightly with the Northern Giant Petrel, which we saw several of too, however, it has a reddish bill tip.

When the ship was closer to land, approaching Comodoro Rivadavia, the water was much calmer. It was beautiful and allowed for some interesting reflections and photography. This Black-browed Albatross started to run on water and then took off. I love how the wing tips are still dipped in the water. It's an elegant bird and it was by far the most abundant Albatross species we saw on the whole trip and luckily for us it was often flying close to the ship. It has an impressive wingspan of 2.1 to 2.5 metres! You can see in the photograph how the dark colouration goes across its back from wing to wing.

Occasionally, we were lucky enough to spot different species of Albatross, like this Southern Royal Albatross. Unlike the Black-browed Albatross, its body is white across the back. It also has a white leading edge to the wings, which you can just see (above). If you thought the wingspan of the Black-browed Albatross is impressive, the Southern Royal is even larger with a 2.9 to 3.28 metre wingspan! Unfortunately, it didn't usually fly that close to us.

Amongst the other bird species we saw, there were White-chinned Petrel, Wilson's Petrel and Slender-billed Prion. Bizarrely, I also saw a passerine fly by, which was most surprising this far out to sea and this far south. There was much discussion amongst the birders as to which species it was. I think the census was a Buff-winged Cinclodes. We were very lucky to have some very knowledgeable birders on board, especially as there wasn't a staff member with good birding knowledge. Bob and I benefitted hugely from them and were very grateful they shared their passion and enthusiasm with us. We both learned a great deal.

One of my favourite bird species was the Cape Petrel. We saw A LOT of them on the entire journey! They often were flying close to the boat and circling around, sometimes in small numbers, other times in larger groups. Their stunning black and white wing markings impressed me and it was always a joy to see them. I spent quite a bit of time photographing them on those first few days. The smaller birds, like the Prions and Wilson's Petrel, were faster and trickier to photograph. I needed to practice my flying bird skills before I could attempt photographing them!

Being on deck most of the day, meant that Bob and I didn't feel motion sick hardly at all. The horizon was always in view, even when the swell meant there was a bit more movement up and down. Whilst many passengers were wearing sea sickness patches behind the ear, we wore the nausea wrist bands that work on an acupressure point in the wrist. It is believed to influence the nervous system pathways between the brain and the stomach and digestive system to help prevent sickness. They worked for me most of the trip and only occasionally did I opt for medication. Being distracted always helped. But, looking at mobile phones and reading generally didn't help. Thankfully, for us, we were only sea sick one time, on our third evening. We skipped dinner and went to bed early, which was the best thing we could do. We were grateful it was the only time.

NEW ISLAND

On the fourth day, we reached the Falkland Islands. I had no idea there were so many of them - 780 islands in total! We had two landings on New Island, which is one of the most westerly of the archipelago. We spent the morning at Coffin's Harbour and the afternoon at North Harbour. We had plenty of time on both occasions, which was fabulous. After three days at sea, I think everyone on board was keen to have a good walk on land.

We used inflatable light boats to go ashore, called Zodiacs. Only 10 passengers can be transported in each. Usually about three or four Zodiacs were used to go back and forth between our ship and shore, which meant we could disperse and spread out on land rather than all arrive at the same time. Before disembarking the boat, plus when we returned, we would stand in troughs of water filled with disinfectant. Using the scrubbing brushes provided we had to make sure our boots were clean.

I'll never forget our first Zodiac ride heading to Coffin's Harbour, because a Peale's Dolphin was porpoising literally just in front of us. It was amazing. What a welcome to the Falkland Islands!

COFFIN'S HARBOUR

Our first wildlife sighting on land was the Ruddy-headed Goose, quite literally right at the beach. Although it's fairly common in the Falkland Islands it's rare and endangered on the South American mainland.

Once we left the beach, we saw several male and female Upland Geese on the open grassland, including some chicks staying close to their mother. There were a few males competing for territory, throwing back their head and calling loudly.

One of the main highlights for visiting this island was the large colony of Rockhopper Penguins. They're such a striking penguin species with yellow and black spiky feathers on their head, amazing red eyes, an orange beak and pink feet. When fully mature they only reach about 50cm in height. As their name suggests, they hop a lot, but they were also seen walking. What's so amazing is just how high up the cliffs they are able to hop to reach the nesting site. It's quite remarkable and must take ages and a lot of perserverance.

It was lovely having the time to watch their behaviour. This pair seemed quite happy with the spot they had chosen to build a nest. Then one of them picked up this blade of grass and very carefully seemed to place it on the ground. Well, I guess you have to start somewhere!

The colony was quite dense. There were lots of individuals, but you could usually spot the pairs. As with other bird species, there was a lot of preening and pair bonding.

Amongst the mass of Rockhoppers just one single Macaroni Penguin was spotted on the cliffside across from where we were standing. It's another crested penguin species but with a much more striking yellow crest, so it stood out amongst its neighbours. I took a distant photo, but was hopeful we'd see more of this species later on our journey.

This site wasn't just good for penguins. There was a large colony of Black-browed Albratross sharing the cliffs. Having seen them flying alongside the ship for the previous three days, it was nice to actually see them close up.

Their pair bonding reminded me a little of the Gannets I've seen back in the UK, the way they used their beak to make contact with their partner.

I was pleased to finally get a decent flying shot from a stationary point rather than on a moving ship. They would fly by quite close to the cliffs.

A nother unexpected bonus was having such lovely close views of the Straited Caracara. This is an adult with a distinctive white edge to its tail and lovely white markings on the tips of the feathers around its head and neck.

Another species seen at the colony were the Imperial Shag, which are also known as King Cormorants on the Falkland Islands, just to confuse matters! The distinctive blue eye ring is remarkable and the orange-yellow nasal knob rather unusual. I just love the crest of feathers that spike upwards. Notice also the white feathers just above the eye. It was fantastic to have such lovely views of them here.

They were seen flying back to their nests with building materials in their beaks. They knew exactly where to land too, in amongst the crowd, which is quite amazing really. I enjoyed photographing them flying and coming in to land. But, eventually we had to head back to the ship.

NORTH HARBOUR

Whilst we were at lunch the ship relocated to the north side of the island and later we took the Zodiacs ashore again. This time there were Magellanic Oystercatchers on the beach to greet us. We walked over the sand dune and found another open expanse of meadow. There was a pool of water some distance from us, with geese on or near it, plus a lone Magellanic Penguin. We continued walking along the trail, which had been set up for us to follow with posts periodically planted in the ground. Then suddenly a head popped up and it was another Magellanic Penguin much closer, watching us walk by.

At the furthest point on the walk, we reached a small Black-browed Albratross colony with only a few Rockhopper Penguins amongst them. There was some more pair bonding and I spotted one bird sitting on its nest. They use the same nest year after year. Bob and I had some more fun photographing the birds flying passed us at this point.

T he view from here along the coastline was impressive.

We then retraced our steps back to the Gentoo Penguin colony, which was at the top of a hill above a beach. There were two circles of them at either side at the top, out in the open, unlike the Rockhoppers that were nesting amongst the rocks. They seemed somewhat vulnerable here, especially with some Striated Caracaras lurking around the perimeter. I guess the safety is still in the number of them close together.

Many of the penguins looked as though they were already laying on eggs, incubating them. But some were up on their feet squarking at their neighbours noisily.

The Gentoo Penguin is quite easily distinguished because of its wide white patch above the eye. They are the third largest penguin species ranging in height between 70-90cm.

It was great to have the opportunity to witness some nest building. The Gentoos pick up stones, one at a time, and waddle back to their nest to lay each one down carefully.

We were really lucky to spot this adult standing up briefly, to reveal the eggs that it was safeguarding. The second egg is harder to see but tucked further under the penguins feathers. A second penguin stood up close by soon after and it was easier to see the two eggs. Both adults take responsibility for incubating the eggs and will change over each day. Their partners were seen returning to the nests, walking uphill, as we walked down towards the beach.

It was nice to see a few more Magellanic Penguins on the beach, though they were far fewer in number. They have black beaks and a white arc from above the eye, towards the back of the head and curving around and joining under the chin. They are slightly smaller than the Gentoo Penguins.

We'd had such an amazing day! We'd experienced so many wonderful wildlife moments on our first day on land, but for me there was one encounter that was the undeniable highlight. It was watching the Gentoos coming in to shore. There were quite a few groups of them swimming towards the beach. Bizarrely, they didn't head straight in, they would zigzag their way in. Presumably this was a defence tactic. We did spot some sea lions and dolphins, but they weren't predatory. It's the Leopard Seals that they have to be wary of.

I loved seeing the Gentoos swimming through the waves, then being washed up onto the beach, clumsily getting to their feet and waddling across the sand.

It was so comical at times.

Some of them timed their exit to precision, quite literally popping up out of the water in a burst of energy, propelling themselves into the air. I was thrilled I'd been able to capture this moment. They would usually land on their bellies rather than their feet. It absolutely looked like such fun! Unfortunately, we had to leave soon after this. We saw another group approaching, but they were taking their time, swimming left then right, but not in a rush to come ashore. It was the only time I wished we could have stayed longer.

STANLEY

The following morning we pulled into the harbour at Stanley, which is the capitol of the Falkland Islands. It's located on East Falkland, the largest island of the archipelago. We had a few choices of things to do, but we were left to our own devices as to how we organised our transport. Whilst it would have been possible to take a taxi to visit other parts of the area to see wildlife, as many of our fellow passengers did, we chose to have some quiet time to ourselves and enjoyed a walk along the waterfront. It was lovely. The sun was shining and it felt quite mild. Almost immediately we stepped off the jetty we saw some wildlife as we walked westwards.

I was particularly struck by the Grey Duck, which doesn't seem like a very fitting name. It is known as the Patagonia Crested Duck elsewhere. It's red eye really stands out against its plumage. I like the almost spotted look of the feathers. Also impressive was a bird we'd spotted at Punto Loma and on New Island - the Dolphin Gull. It's red beak and legs make this gull species stand out from the rest. I think it's one of the most attractive gulls I've seen.

The duck species we were keen on seeing the most was the Steamer Duck. We'd tried but failed to spot it along the coast from Puerto Madryn, so to finally spot a pair in the harbour was great. This one shown is the male. The female has a brown head. They're considered a flightless bird, because they seldom take to the air. I was a little disappointed we didn't get to see it swimming like a paddle steamer, as it is known to do - flapping it's wings and feet on the water (hence the name). But, I was glad we were at least lucky enough to finally see a few.

From Stanley it was time to head out to sea again, this time to South Georgia. It would take two days to reach the island. I'd heard accounts from friends before our trip that South Georgia is the pearl in this region and an amazing place to see wildlife. I couldn't wait. If the weather was on our side and we could have landings on the island, which aren't guaranteed if the conditions aren't right, there might be the opportunity for some fabulous wildlife sightings. The Falkland Islands had whet the appetite and we were both ready for more.

Next post in series: Travelling to South Georgia

To see a smaller selection of my favourite photos from the holiday, click here .

Argentina

Thu, 13 Feb 2025 11:31:33 GMT

PRIOR TO EPIC ANTARCTIC ADVENTURE

I'd given up the idea of visiting Antarctica after the trip I was booked on in November 2020 was cancelled due to Covid. It was meant to be a 50th Birthday treat for myself. As you can imagine, it was hugely disappointing. With the future looking so uncertain at that time, especially being self-employed, I abandoned the idea of going because it was just so much money. I know there were many people that had cancelled holidays then, including Bob's son, Matt, who'd been due to visit Madagascar. In 2024, Matt was finally having that dream holiday and when we were having a meal out one evening he was talking about his impending trip. For the first time in ages, I mentioned my own disappointment and how it didn't seem likely I'd go to the Antarctic, especially as Bob didn't seem interested in going.

In a rather bizarre turn of events, later that same evening Matt received some information from Birdquest about a 50% discount on an Antarctic trip leaving in 6 weeks with Oceanwide Expeditions. I couldn't believe it! What's more, after reading about the trip and the dates, I realised it coincided with my mid term break in classes, and so it seemed entirely possible I could go. I'd have to extend my break from teaching to allow enough time to travel to/from South America and for the 21 days of the trip, but it seemed crazy not to take advantage of this amazing offer. I was keen to go, Bob was less so, and we took a weekend to think about it, look at all the costs involved, before making a decision. In that time, we nearly both talked ourselves out of going. For me, it was largely to do with whether I should go, considering the impact such a voyage has on the polar region and also my carbon footprint. After much deliberation, I decided it was such an amazing opportunity, I didn't want to pass it up. I needed to let go of any guilt in choosing to go and it was also important to me to find some balance - such as making a donation, sharing the photos and the experience not only in this blog, but by giving talks. This was in alignment with my greater purpose, which is to inspire people to care about nature and this planet and not just what's on our own doorstep, but all around the world.

I'd actually given up the hope that Bob would join me, but as we looked through the promotional photos for the trip, he suddenly said, 'Okay! Just book it!' I was so surprised, but thrilled he was going to join me. What an amazing experience we would have together. I quickly booked before he could change his mind and six weeks later we were flying out to Argentina to begin our epic adventure.

BUENOS AIRES

We had a fabulous overnight stay in the Palermo district in the gorgeous Duque Hotel Boutique and Spa. We were able to enjoy the spa facililities all to ourselves for an hour and also had time to relax beside the outside pool. The staff were super friendly and helpful. They went above and beyond to make our short stay the best it could be, helping us book our transfers and evening meal out.

The afternoon was warm and dry and we enjoyed a lovely walk heading for the nearby green spaces. Unfortunately, the Botanic Gardens were closed, but beyond there, near the zoo, we found a small park and were entertained for quite some time by all the birds we saw in this small area. Whilst the Red-headed Cardinal (above) stood out amongst the crowd with its stunning red head, I was also particularly taken with the Narrow-billed Woodcreeper. It reminded me of the Treecreepers we have back in the UK, with its long curved bill and the way it worked its way up the tree. It was stunning and I was really happy to get this shot.

Amongst the other species we photographed, there was the White-browed Mockingbird on the prowl for insects (above) and the Rufous Hornero (below). It was a lovely way to spend an afternoon and we were so relaxed and in our element. Unfortunately, the nice weather didn't last, as it was raining by the time we were walking back from the restaurant in the evening. Thankfully, the hotel loaned us an umbrella!

PUERTO MADRYN

The following day we flew from Buenos Aires to Trelew and took a group transfer to Puerto Madryn. I think we were the only overseas tourists amidst a group of Argentinian holiday makers on a very ancient looking bus. But we made it safely to our apartment and received a warm welcome from the owners, even though they spoke virtually no English. Communication was a challenge since we also spoke no Spanish. Thank goodness for Google Translate and WhatsApp!

Once in Puerto Madryn, I felt like I could properly relax and unwind after our long flights to South American and our connecting flight. I was ready to enjoy our two and a half days exploring the local area. The weather was lovely and warm and we felt properly chilled out. The only problem was we'd packed for the cold and had to wear our travel clothes during the day for the remainder of the week! At least we were both in the same boat!

On our first full day, the owner of the apartment agreed to drop us off at Punta Loma. The plan was to walk back. As we drove further and further away from the city, passing an unchanging barren and dry landscape, I started to wonder if this had been such a good idea after all. It seemed a long way and no one else was walking along the track beside the road. I only saw a few mountain bikers.

The main draw to Punta Loma is to see the masses of American Sea Lions that are hauled up on the beach. Some were coming and going from the water, but mostly there was a lot of them just lying around doing nothing, except for grunting occasionally.

There were plenty of other animals for us to watch and photograph too including the Chimango Caracara and Giant Petrels flying above us and some smaller birds we weren't able to identify. I was particuarly drawn to the Rock Shags that were flying to/from the cliff walls with nesting material in their beaks. There was one just below the viewing platform perched on a tiny rocky outcrop. They're so striking looking with the red around their eyes and the base of the bill.

When we moved from one viewing point to another, I spotted this lizard to one side of the path. I only noticed it because it moved!

The one bird species we saw an awful lot of were the Rufous-collared Sparrows (above). At first, we stopped to admire and photograph them, noticing how different they are to our House Sparrows back home. But, after a while of walking along the dusty path heading back towards Puerto Madryn, it was a case of, 'There's another one!' and we didn't stop to photograph any more.

As anticipated, it was a long walk back. The first stretch was the toughest because you could see the long track stretching ahead of us and the coast seemed very far away. We didn't see much of anything, except of course for the Rufous-collared Sparrows. We kept our cameras out, just in case something of interest came into view, but there was little worth photograhing. Every now and then we had to shield ourselves and our gear when a vehicle drove passed and kicked up lots of dust.

Eventually, the path headed more directly towards the coast and we spotted an interesting large ground bird, lurking in amongst the scrub. However, it heard us coming and disappeared before we had a chance to see it, which was a shame. Anyway, soon after that, we reached the coast. It was a welcome relief to see the sea and have a change of scenery and wildlife.

We enjoyed our lunch break sitting on the beach before continuing on our journey back. I was pleased to see a Great Grebe on the water not too far out from the shoreline, enjoying the opportunity to photograph it.

On many occasions along the walk we spotted a large orange butterfly flying around. But it never settled close enough and we had such brief glimpses of each one, we never got to photograph and identify what the mystery butterfly was. That was, until we made it to the end of the beach. We found one nectaring on some flowers and finally took some photos. Later we learned it was a Western Painted Lady. Very smart looking with large blue spots on the back end of the hindwing compared with the ones we see in the UK.

As we neared the outskirts of Puerto Madryn we had some more interesting wildlife sightings. The stunning red breast of the Long-tailed Meadowlark was breathtaking. There were a pair of them on the ground, moving through the low scrub, but a few times one would perch on a higher branch and I grabbed the opportunity to photograph this amazing bird.

Bob spotted another lovely little butterfly, much smaller than the Western Painted Lady. He didn't know what it was and it ended up taking quite a bit of research after the trip to discover the species, with some help from another butterfly enthusiast. It turned out to be a female Strymon nivea. The underwing pattern is nothing like I've seen before and the irridescent colouration on the upperwing in the sunshine was beautiful.

Not long after seeing the butterfly we spotted this gorgeous little Cuis Chico - also known as Southern Mountain Cavy (Microcavia australis) . It's a small tailless rodent found only in South America. It sat very still, so we were thrilled it posed so nicely for us.

All in all, we saw quite a lot of varied wildlife that day and despite the very long walk, which took us about seven hours (with stops), we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. Of course, Google said it would only take three hours to walk, but I always double their estimate when we're taking photographs!

We were so shattered by the time we reached our apartment, we abandoned the idea of eating out for dinner. Instead, we bought a take away to eat in. This proved a good plan, because later that evening, the heavens opened! It was a proper torrential downpour with thunder and lightening. The street below us quickly became flooded. Amazingly, the next day it was blue sky again and most of the water had drained away, with only a few puddles remaining on the pavement.

On our second full day, we spent our time walking along the beach locally. We started close to the pier where there was a high concentration of birds. The highlights included a Southern Lapwing walking across the sand, a Brown-hooded Gull at the water's edge and the long legged Black-necked Stilt. I'd never seen a Stilt before. It was very elegant and impressive.

From the pier, we walked south along the beach. At lunchtime, we stopped at a lovely beachside restaurant sitting outside in the shade with beautiful views out to sea. At one point, I suddenly spotted a whale and like a typical tourist I called out spontaneously, 'Whale!' Various heads turned, and a few other people seemed as excited as me. But, I understand this is a common occurrence, so the locals were less so! It turned out to be a Southern Right Whale. It breached several times and then dived down. In the second photo, you can really appreciate how big it was compared to the boat nearby - what a view they must have had - plus how close it was to the beach. Amazing! That was one of the best memories from the trip.

Continuing along the beach to the furthest end, away from the beach goers, we came across some more interesting birds. We spotted some South American Terns very close to the water's edge (bottom photo). We waited patiently for the tide to push them closer towards us. I was thrilled to get the photo of several flying. It looks like one bird and several images superimposed onto each other, but it was four birds taking off together.

We also saw a pair of American Oystercatchers, which are particularly stunning, with their red bill, yellow eye and eye ring. Unlike the ones we see in the UK, they don't have red legs, but instead are much paler. Their long bill is ideal for probing the sand for food when the tide is low. They're very similar to the Magellanic Oystercatchers, which we would also have a chance of seeing, but the white wraps around the shoulder wing with the American species.

We'd been teased with a brief glimpse of a Great Kiskadee in Buenos Aires a few days before, but neither one of us had been able to get a photo that time. So, we were thrilled when we saw this one at the beach.

The biggest suprise for me and one of my highlights was seeing some Chilean Flamingoes. There were about a dozen or so on the beach and they looked like juveniles as they were paler in colour.

Later, when we walking back along the beach and passed the flamingoes a second time, they weren't feeding any more. Most of them were resting, standing on one leg, as is customary. But, one individual looked a bit more restless. It was preening itself, and moving its long slender neck around, showing just how flexible it was.

After passing the juveniles, later, when the sun was lower in the sky, we saw a larger group of adult flamingoes flying overhead. The blue sky and evening light shining on them was stunning and we stopped to watch them for quite some time, as they glided and turned together. Fabulous!

We also spotted a few flocks of Baird's Sandpipers along the waterline.

We were pretty shattered after two long days of walking, but we'd enjoyed ourselves immensely.

On our final day in Puerto Madryn, we didn't do a huge amount. We ambled around, took a few photos, and chilled out mostly. We were killing time waiting to join our boat and start our amazing trp to the Antarctic. There was just one final new bird species we enjoyed photographing before we left, down on the beach - a solitary Austral negrito .

The Plancius, which would be our home for the next 21 days, was docked next to the pier and we could see it from where we were staying. All day, we had the reminder of what lay ahead of us. We also saw other tourists milling around. We were sure many of them were doing the same as us and were no doubt would be heading south with us.

Finally it was time to queue at the end of the pier with our luggage alongside our fellow travelling companions. It took a while for us all to get through passport control as there were just over 90 of us leaving on this voyage. The large majority of our group were driven down the length of the pier in shuttle buses, but we decided to walk rather than wait for the bus to return, along with a handful of other passengers. I'm glad we did, otherwise we might have missed seeing a mass of South American Terns perched on one of the ropes and a seal and grebe that were in the water near the pier.

As you'd expect, there was quite a bit of excitment in the air, with lots of people chatting and posing for photos with the boat. As we embarked on the vessel we received a warm welcome from the staff and found our cabin. We were super lucky with where it was positioned - it was the second cabin from the front (aft) on the left (port) side and level with the main deck, which would give us quick easy access when we wanted to be out on deck.

I was super excited about what lay ahead of us. I didn't really know what to expect, I just knew we'd see lots of amazing wildlife, I hoped for some good weather and crossed my fingers for fairly calm seas. I knew we'd have a wonderful time no matter what we experienced.

Next post in series: Travelling to the Falkland Islands

To see a smaller selection of my favourite photos from the holiday, click here .

Cumbria Revisited

Wed, 04 Dec 2024 08:38:50 GMT

Earlier in the year, Bob and I had a wonderful holiday up in Scotland, focusing mostly on the Isle of Mull. I've written several blog posts about this trip, which you can read by clicking on this link . However, at the start and the end of our time up north, we went looking for new butterfly species for me - ones we don't see in the south of England. I'm currently in the process of trying to see all UK butterfly species.

During our last few days of that holiday, we were in Cumbria searching for the Large Heath, Northern Brown Argus and the Mountain Ringlet. It was too early for the High Brown Fritillary following the cool damp spring, however, there was a chance of seeing some in early August, albeit potentially very tatty and right at the end of their flight season. We'd already started mulling over the idea of returning to Cumbria at that time of year to see another butterfly species new to me, the Scotch Argus. The opportunity to see both species was too tempting to pass by. So, we returned to Cumbria on 6th August, but this time just for two days. It was all we could fit in to our schedule.

Since we had limited time, and the weather was looking quite favourable on the Tuesday, we set off super early and reached our first location by late morning - Holme Stinted Pastures. This is where Bob had seen the High Brown Fritillary before. These mating Common Darters (above) were amongst the first things we saw upon our arrival. We walked around for a couple of hours and had a bite to eat, but we really only started to see butterflies on the wing in the latter stages, when it was warmer and sunnier. Sadly, though, we didn't have any luck with the High Brown Fritillary.

We were close to leaving when we met up with Mark and a friend of his. He was the butterfly enthusiast we met last time we were in Cumbria. It wasn't a coincidence, we knew they would be on the same search as us. We stopped to chat for a while, however, we wanted to make the most of the day. It really looked like the weather on the Wednesday would not be great for butterflies. So, spurred on, we left them to wander around and moved on to the next site, White Scar. It was just 15 minutes drive away, on the other side of the M6.

We knew there had been recent sightings of the High Brown Fritillary at this location, so we were more hopeful of success. It wasn't a site we'd been to before, but it was a stone's throw away from Latterbarrow, which we visited on our first trip to Cumbria, and where we'd met Mark. We found the car park easily and followed the track, wondering how far we might have to walk to see our first High Brown Fritillary. Only minutes later we had our answer when we reached a small clearing. Up on a ledge of the quarry, maybe 10m above us, were three men standing with cameras in hand, pointing them down towards an orange butterfly perched on a Buddleia tree. A quick look through the bins confirmed it was the one we were hoping to see and we rushed up to join them.

It was a fabulous little spot with lots of butterflies nectaring on the Buddleia all around us, including Large White. Although that first High Brown Fritillary flew off pretty quickly, it didn't take long before we spotted more, first on the ground and then nectaring again. We think we must have seen either two or three different individuals and they were all in pretty good condition, considering how late it was in the flight season. I was really happy. It was fabulous to clearly see the concave curve of the forewings, one of the distinguishing features of this species. It's easy to mix them up with the Dark Green Fritillary that has a convex curve on their forewings. Since they were also in the vicinity, it was confusing at times figuring out which species we were looking at.

After 30 minutes of being at White Scar, we felt really happy that we'd achieved our goal of seeing this species and had some nice photos too. It was early in the afternoon by this stage. We could have stayed there for quite a lot longer and enjoyed photographing all the species we were seeing. But, knowing the weather was looking so poor for the following day, I wondered if we should go on to Smardale Gill instead of staying put. It was a 45 minute drive north. It might have been our only good chance to find the Scotch Argus, which we were both so keen on seeing. I was a little torn, because it felt like we were moving on too quickly from White Scar. I didn't want to just tick the butterfly off the list and move on to the next species. I felt like I was on an episode of Challenge Aneka! Usually, I like to enjoy the experience, and not to rush, thereby making the most of seeing the butterflies. But, on this occasion, the experience was about making the most of the day.

Bob was pretty much of the same opinion as me and just as eager to see the Scotch Argus. He'd only ever seen this species once before himself. So, after a little discussion and deliberation, we headed off to Smardale Gill. We messaged Mark that we were already moving on and maybe we'd see them later.

Neither of us were familiar with this site, but we'd done some research to help us locate the species, including a grid reference from a recent sighting. Upon arrival at the car park, we also bumped into a friendly couple who stopped to give us more instructions on where to go, assuring us they'd just seen some. So, we set off feeling optimistic. Having said that, it was noticeably more breezy by then and quite chilly when the sun was behind the clouds. What we hadn't realised was how long the walk would be either. We followed the path - an old disused railway - for about an hour without the sight of any fluttering wings, let alone a Scotch Argus. But then, all of a sudden, Bob spotted one with its unmistakable dark brown wings. Yay! Success! In fact, soon after our first sighting, we kept seeing more. We ended up disturbing some as we walked along the path. This one posed beautifully on the fern.

Eventually, we reached an area that was a little more open on one side of the bank. We waited there a while as we could see the sun would shortly break free of the clouds and shine down on this spot. When it did, it was as if a switch had been flicked on, because suddenly over a dozen Scotch Argus took to the wing having been hidden from us beforehand. They flew just above the height of the flowers across the small patch right in front of us. It was beautiful to witness and for a few brief seconds I was mesmerised. Periodically, they would settle on leaves or flowers, so I was thrilled to get a few photos of one nectaring.

As soon as the sun disappeared, they all suddenly dropped down low in amongst the vegetation, making it tricky to see them let alone photograph them. Thankfully, the sun reappeared a short while after, and so the cycle began again.

The next time the sun disappeared again, we decided to continue along the path further. It was lovely to see some orchids including Broad-leaved Helleborines and this rather large Marsh Fragrant Orchid (below). We walked as far as the Viadact, and saw a few more Scotch Argus on the other side of the stile, but decided this was far enough. So turning back, we retraced our steps to the open area of the bank, which once more was in the sunshine. We loitered there for a while, enjoying the late afternoon light and seeing so many of our target species.

I rather liked this female with her wings closed. She stayed there for several minutes. She looked very fresh.

A little while later, Mark turned up with his friend. They'd also had success with the High Brown Fritillary at White Scar, which was good to hear. The advantage they had was they could end their day at Smardale Gill as they were staying nearby. They didn't have a long drive back to Kendal, like we did. So, after chatting for a while, discussing the success of the day, we left them to enjoy the butterflies and we started to make our way back to the car.

There was one more little treat for us on the way back. This gorgeous male landed in a lovely open wing position on a leaf right by the path, posing beautifully. We were both really happy to have one more final view and get a good photo. It was the perfect end to our very long day! We were shattered by the time we reached our hotel, but extremely satisfied with our success and glad we'd pressed on from White Scar when we had the chance.

The weather the following day was just as poor as predicted, with quite a bit of rain, strong winds and only the occasional moments of sunshine. Not a good day for butterflies. But, naturally, we didn't spend the whole day indoors. We decided to head back to White Scar and see what we could find. Amazingly, the day was not a washout. We had some really interesting and surprising sightings.

First, I spotted this old skin casing of either a cricket or grasshopper. I've never seen one before, so that was intriguing.

Then Bob managed to disturb a small Black Darter dragonfly as we were walking around. It didn't fly far away and we were able to get several photos of this little creature, in the rain. I was really pleased as I've never seen this species of dragonfly before.

I enjoyed photographing it, even though the conditions were less than ideal. I love these close ups of its eyes.

I t was a very enjoyable way to pass the time, all the while waiting for some better weather and at least a dry spell.

Thankfully, the rain did eventually cease. On the previous day we'd had some brief sightings of Graylings. But, since we were more focused on the High Brown Fritillary, I hadn't taken a huge amount of notice of them. It was a lovely bonus to be able to make up for it on this second day. I found quite a few hiding on the rocks and ground and really enjoyed taking some photos. Although, it's a species I've seen before in East Sussex, there is only the one colony. The pattern on the underwing is amazing and it blends in so well to its surroundings. It's one of those things that can hide in plain sight!

This one clinging on to the rock wall was in quite a precarious place and tricky to photograph, but I managed to scramble up to a small ledge to get the photos I wanted. It wasn't surprising it was also seen nectaring on the Buddleia, as that was about the only flower around.

I took a break from photographing the Grayling when Bob called over to me. He'd found a Dark Green Fritillary in great condition. At first, it was hiding in the grasses, but then it flew up onto the Buddleia, but not a very pretty flowering one. Sadly, the light was still very poor and it started to rain again. I was surprised it stayed put and didn't take shelter in a better spot.

In fact, it went to sleep in this spot. It was still there about an hour later when another butterfly enthusiast turned up. If you look closely you can see a few tiny drops of rain on it's head and antennae.

With more time on our hands, we decided to head to Arnside Knott at lunchtime. There was a chance the weather would improve, well at least stop raining. The wind was still less than ideal. There had been reports of Brown Hairstreaks being seen at this site the day before, plus, it was a known site for Scotch Argus. So, we set off slowly up hill, with fairly low expectations.

Near the top, we bumped into two butterfly enthusiasts who, like us, had little joy seeing anything of note on their walk. They had even been to Smardale Gill that morning and not seen any Scotch Argus. Whilst I was sorry for them, I was extremely glad we'd changed our plans at the last minute the day before. We all hung around the top near all the Hemp Agrimony, hoping to see some butterfly action. When the sun did make an appearance, we did at least get a sighting of a Common Blue, a Painted Lady and a Red Admiral. Bob and I remained there for quite some time, but the other two decided to head down the hill. I think they were a little dejected about their day. Before they left, I told them about a spot just below where we were that they might want to check out as a possible place for the Scotch Argus. I gave them the grid reference and off they went.

We stayed up the top a while longer, but eventually decided to check out this grid reference ourselves. We bumped into the two men again, just near the area, but they'd not ventured past the vegetation and trees to get into the clearing. It turned out they'd lost the grid reference and were unsure of where to go. I encouraged them to follow me and lead the way into the clearing. The access wasn't very obvious and not on a path. We looked around, noticing a distinct lack of flowers and then I spotted some Hemp Agrimony partially obscured behind some bushes. We all headed over in that direction. Suddenly, Bob spotted a Brown Hairstreak and immediately called out to the men to stop. One of them was about to disturb it without realising! Well, you can imagine how thrilled we were, and surprised!

It even opened its wings partially! Then, Bob spotted a second Brown Hairstreak. We were spoilt for choice! I took a few photos of both, but then they flew off. I didn't see where the second one flew off to, but the first one flew up into a nearby tree. The two men left, now feeling a bit happier. But we remained there to enjoy our lunch in the quiet sheltered spot. The Brown Hairstreak didn't budge the whole time we had our lunch, which was a shame. However, I was grateful we'd even seen them at all.

Not much else happened that day, so we returned to the hotel to relax. After such a long tiring day before, we were glad of a bit more downtime in the evening. The follow day, the weather was even worse than the day before. There was no point in staying any longer than necessary, so we drove home after eating a hearty breakfast.

It might have been a short visit north, but it had been worthwhile. I was so pleased that we saw both the High Brown Fritillary and the Scotch Argus. That leaves me with just three more new butterfly species to find and then I'll have seen all the UK species. They are the Heath Fritillary, Glanville Fritillary and the Swallowtail. I can't wait to search for them, but of course I have to wait until next May, when the fun with the butterflies will kick off again.

Cumbria Highlights

Fri, 15 Nov 2024 20:57:05 GMT

After our wonderful holiday up in Scotland, which I've written about in my previous posts - the last of which was Other Mull Highliahts - Bob and I headed to Cumbria. It was a great way for us to break up our journey south. We were based in Kendal. We had three full days and three new butterfly species for me to find: Large Heath, Northern Brown Argus and Mountain Ringlet. None of these species can be found in the south and I'm currently on a quest to see all species of Butterfly in the UK (mainland). I knew it was going to be a challenge because once again, the weather really wasn't on our side with mostly rain, wind and overcast conditions. But, after our success in Fort William and seeing my first Chequered Skipper in less than ideal conditions, I was optimistic there was still a chance of success, albeit small.

DAY 1

Our focus on the Saturday was the Large Heath butterfly. It's a species that's endangered in the UK because so much of its habitat has been destroyed. They like wet boggy land and Meathop Moss Nature Reserve is a great place to see them. It was less than 30 minutes drive from our hotel. We headed off in really dreary weather wondering how the day ahead would unfold.

After parking the car, we made our way along the muddy track to the boardwalk that looped around an area of boggy ground. It wasn't so surprising that I spotted this tiny froglet clambering around in the moist vegetation. It was a happy distraction for me, since there was no sign of any butterflies initially. The question was, would we see a butterfly before the dark clouds in the distance moved overhead and delivered a torrent of rain?

Well, thankfully, the answer was yes and we didn't have to wait too long. Bob spotted this lone Large Heath on the heather, with its wings folded - this species always rests with its wings closed. It was a beautifully fresh specimen with large rings on the underside, reminiscent of the Ringlet, but not in colour. It's the davus form that you find in Cumbria. It's one of three variations, based on geography. This form is unique to the southern part of their range. There's also the scotica form in Scotland and the polydama form in the area between the two other.

Luckily, we had quite a bit of time to photograph it before the first drops of rain were seen and felt.

It didn't take long before the heavens opened and we rushed to take shelter under a tree - meagre shelter, I should say. But, at least we were prepared and wearing our waterproofs. We sat around, waiting for the rain to pass. It took some time. There was even a clap of thunder not too far away. We could have given up and returned to the car, but we remained optimistic that the rain might ease enough for us to get a few more photographs with this butterfly. Assuming it was still where we left it. It was a pretty safe bet, since it wasn't likely to fly off in the horrendous weather!

Our patience was rewarded. Eventually, we were able to enjoy some more time photographing the butterfly, this time on the Crossed-leaved Heath.

We were both thrilled to have seen the Large Heath, not least because we'd had success on the most unlikely of days! Bob had only seen this species twice before, (once each for the davus and scotica forms), so he was just as happy as me. We both felt incredibly lucky.

At midday we left Meathop Moss and headed south to Arnside Knott. By the time we reached there, the rain was really chucking it down again and we didn't even bother to leave the car, other than to get our packed lunch from the boot. We stayed in the dry and warmth whilst eating, and abandoned any ideas of going for a walk. Instead, we figured a visit to RSPB Leighton Moss would be a better idea. They would at least have hides for us to take shelter in. It proved a worthwhile decision.

Amongst the wildlife delights that afternoon, we saw a couple of Marsh Harriers and had a lovely close sighting of a Cetti's Warbler. We also heard the boom of a Bittern in the distance, but sadly, it never took flight. From the Grisedale Hide, where we spent most of the afternoon, we saw a Roe Deer doe feeding amongst the tall grasses. Every now and then she would pop her head up above the grass.

A cool breeze was coming through the open window hatches of the hide, so we kept our coats and hats on. On the plus side, we could hear the noises from the bird life outside, which I found to be so relaxing. There was a steady flow of people coming and going from the hide, and some people stayed a long while, like us. We relished the quieter moments, when the hide fell silent. It was then I could hear the steady fall of light rain. It was actually very soothing.

There were moments of brightness during the afternoon when the clouds would part and reveal a small pocket of blue sky. Then just as swiftly the clouds would close ranks and the rain descended again - sometimes quite heavily. I enjoyed watching the Greylag Geese and Mallard ducks on the pond in front of the hide, both with young in tow. A pair of Coots with three chicks were also hiding amongst the reeds feeding. Then a Heron landed right in front of me less than 10m away and stole my attention for a while. I love how they stand totally still for absolutely ages. Only occasionally did it move its head from side to side. Then, after a long while, it started to wade through the water.

In complete contrast to the slow movement of the Heron, the Swifts were living up to their name, just above the pond and reedbed, and also above the trees in the distance. I don't think I've ever seen so many before. It was amazing! I love how they suddenly change direction and wheel around in the sky as they feed on the insects. I tried to photograph them darting past us, but with great diffiuclty. It's impossible to focus on them when they move so fast. I tried to capture the moment on video, but that didn't really do them justice either. Sometimes, you just have to enjoy the moment as it happens.

DAY 2

On the Sunday we focused our attention on finding the Northern Brown Argus at Arnside Knott. Thankfully, we didn't have the rain to contend with, but it wasn't particularly sunny. On the few occasions when some sun broke through the thin layer of cloud, the butterflies made themselves known and took to the wing. It gave me some optimistim for the day ahead.

My first treat of the day was a brief sighting of a Tawny Owl flying away from me, low to the ground, when I approached the tree it was perched in. I hadn't even seen it there. The next treat was our first Large Skipper sighting of the year. It had only just emerged, as you can see the meconium bubble at the base of its abdomen.

It took us longer to find our target species, but we did eventually. Bob disturbed it as we were walking through a small hillside meadow. It was a lovely little spot. The butterfly was busy nectaring and flying from flower to flower, but stayed in the immediate vacinity, which made it easier for us to photograph it.

I enjoyed photographing the butterfly from different angles. I've said it before, but I do love taking the underwing show from in front. I feel like I'm in the butterfly's world when I get down low like this.

Of course, it's always nice to get the classic open wing shot too from above.

The only issue for us was whether or not it really was a Northern Brown Argus. It looked just like the Brown Argus we find back home in Sussex. It didn't have the distinguishing white spot in the middle of the forewing and the orange spots were quite distinct too. Unfortunately, there can be quite some variety in markings across this species. So, although we were happily photographing it, thinking it might be what we were after, Bob wasn't confident it was.

We pressed on further up the hill, hoping for more sightings of the same species. Whilst passing through another bigger wildflower meadow, I spotted this gorgeous bright orange flower that really stood out amongst the crowd. I looked it up on my phone to see what it was: Fox-and-cubs. What a lovely name! I was just taking a photo of it, when all of a sudden a Small Pearl-bordered Fritillary photo bombed the shot. Well that doesn't happen every day! What a lovely surprise! It's a species that is widespread in Scotland and Wales but in severe decline in England.

Not far from the summit of the hill Bob spotted another Northern Brown Argus. We had only a few brief opportunities to photograph this one before it flew off. They were more grab shots rather than good photos. Despite our best efforts, we weren't able to locate it again. But, that one at least had some white in the middle of the forewings, so we felt more confident we'd at least seen a Northern Brown Argus.

On our way back down to the car park, as we gradually worked our way down the slopes, we found another one like the second. Unfortunately, one of its hindwings was damaged, which probably occurred as it emerged. But, I was pleased to get a nice photo of it with the wings closed. You can't see the damaged wing from this side!

To round off our visit at Arnside Knott, a gorgeous Speckled Wood posed nicely for me on a fern. I couldn't resist a click.

It was a weird day really, because I didn't feel the elation of the previous day, due to the doubts we'd had about that first potential Northern Brown Argus that we saw. But regardless, it was good to have finally seen one and I was pleased. It didn't matter that much that I didn't have a good open wing photo. Maybe we'd get lucky and see another one at Latterbarrow Nature Reserve, where we went on to afterwards. It wasn't much of a diversion from Kendal and there was still some daylight left.

When we arrived another butterfly enthusiast said he'd had a few sightings a little earlier there, so we started to explore ourselves, splitting up as we meandered around the paths. It was a lovely narrow long wildflower meadow surrounded by trees and filled with Oxeye Daisies. Although it wasn't that sunny, I still expected to see more insect activity. It was noticeably quiet. I spotted a Silver Y nectaring on a flower, and a bee sleeping inside a semi curled up flower, but I didn't spot any butterflies. I saw there was some Quaking Grass amongst the flowers. I love the colour of the flower heads and how they delicately dangle from their stems, shaking in the breeze.

Unfortunately, I didn't see a Northern Brown Argus after much searching. Bob, on the other hand, did have success. Sadly, that can be the case when you split up and I wasn't within his view so he could alert me. But later, when he found this stunning Four-spotted Chaser Dragonfly I was close enough to join him and get some photos. It was a lovely way to end the day.

DAY 3

Would we manage the hat trick and see the third new species for me in as many days? I hoped so. We specifically saved the search for the Mountain Ringlet to this day to help increase our chances of success. Weatherwise, it was forecast to be the driest, least windy and potentially sunniest day of the three. But, it was also our final day, so there would be no second chances.

Irton Fell, in the west of Cumbria, was where we headed. We knew this year there had already been sightings of our target up on the fell. We even had a map reference too, so there was every reason to be hopeful! Not only was the drive there lovely, but as we walked up the fell, I admired the views. The green rolling hills, plentiful trees, stone walls, craggy outcrops and distant lakes were just as I imagined Cumbria to be like.

Once we were above the trees, we ended up walking through some boggy grass areas, having gone a bit awry from the trail. We had the added challenge of avoiding some cows too. But, we finally made it up to higher ground and knew we were in the right area. Our eyes were almost constantly scouring the ground and just ahead of us, looking out for anything we might disturb whilst walking. Then suddenly, Bob disturbed a brown butterfly that flew off and landed just a bit further ahead of us. We were both surprised and startled, not expecting it to be that easy to see one. Result! My first Mountain Ringlet! Yay! I took a quick grab shot. It was a bit more like a Meadow Brown in colour than a Ringlet.

Of course, it didn't sit still. It flew from flower to flower, nectaring. I managed to follow it and take a few more record shots, but nothing amazing. I was just glad they were in focus and I was able to appreciate their wing pattern and how they're different to the much darker chocolate coloured Ringlets, which are more widespread.

Then all of a sudden it flew much further ahead, as if assisted by the wind, and it disappeared into the tall tussocks of grass. We spent ages looking for it, but to no avail. But, in all that searching we didn't disturb any others either, which was perhaps even more surprising. We did venture a fraction higher, but we had no joy there either. During the course of the afternoon there were a few other enthusiasts that turned up eager to see one, but they had no success either. We were at least grateful for the brief five minutes we'd had with our one and only one. It was a success, but followed by hours of fruitless searching. Maybe it was too cold and windy.

Eventually we gave up and headed back down to the car park. There was at least one more treat on our way down. Bob spotted this Lead Belle moth. It looked pretty fresh and there's a lovely silvery shimmer to the wing fringes.

Some days later, we heard that more could be seen higher up the mountain at another location. Perhaps if we'd known more about the site we would have ventured further. But then again, the weather was still far from ideal, so who knows if we would have had more joy on our final day. But, for the sake of my quest, I was happy. I'd at least seen one. Maybe in the not too distant future, we'll return to the area and have another stab at it.

On our drive back to Kendal we decided to stop off at Meathop Moss. By that time, the weather had improved. It was sunnier, warmer and less windy. The evening light was gorgeous and we were hopeful of seeing some more Large Heath butterflies. The stop proved worthwhile. As we walked slowly along the boardwalk we saw quite a few on the wing. Of couse, it was almost impossible to photograph them moving. It was only when a few settled close to the boardwalk that we got lucky with the photos. It was a good note to end the day on.

Despite the weather, our days spent in Cumbria really had been a success! I couldn't quite believe we'd seen all three species of butterfly that I'd wanted to see. On our final morning, when we were due to drive back home, we were both feeling a bit reluctant to leave. I didn't relish the long drive. One last jaunt to Latterbarrow seemed really appealing - one last chance to spot the Northern Brown Argus. It was just too tempting. So we delayed our departure and allowed ourselves just a few hours before heading south.

Once again, we split up and did our own thing. I enjoyed a mindfulness moment. I really wanted to savour the moment. I tried to pay as much attention as I could to everything that I saw and heard. I managed to ignore the sound of the cars in the distance and instead focused on the calls of the Song Thrush, Common Chiffchaff, Blackbird and Wren that I could hear periodically. I felt so relaxed. I wasn't even that bothered if I didn't see another Northern Brown Argus. I was just enjoying being out in nature in the cool morning, with no one else around and the soft smell of wildflowers in the air. I wasn't thinking about anything else. It was just in a blissful state of contentment.

During my amble, I spotted this mining bee that looked like it was wearing bright yellow pantaloons. Of course, it's just the pollen sacs that are attached to their hind legs. I love how they can do this, collecting pollen as they visit each flower.

Shortly after, I spotted a pair of Footballers mating! That's the common name for this species of Hoverfly ( Helophilus pendulus ) - Honest!

Out of the corner of my eye, I noticed Bob was talking to someone - another butterfly enthusiast had turned up. Eventually, they both made their way over to where I was standing. We chatted for quite a while and then dispersed again to continue our search for butterflies. No sooner had we parted, when Bob suddenly called out that he'd found a Northern Brown Argus. We were both swift to join him. I certainly didn't want to miss the opportunity again.

It was fabulous! Not only did it have the white spot in the middle of the forewing, but we had lots of opportunities to photograph this very fresh looking butterfly.

Not long after spotting this one, another appeared. For about an hour the three of us proceeded to photograph both butterflies. We more or less had the place to ourselves and chatted in between snapping away. During that time we discovered Mark was from Norfolk and just beginning his short trip to Cumbria. We shared some tips from our time there to help him. What was interesting to learn from Mark was how the Brown Argus hasn't made it as far north as Cumbria yet, so all the ones we'd seen on the Sunday definitely were Northern Brown Argus. It was good to have that confirmation and be certain.

I really enjoyed our last hour there. I was so happy having the opportunity to take several photos. I couldn't believe how different the morning had been to our previous encounters with this species. I marvelled at how things had turned out. It would have been very easy just to head home straight after breakfast, but instead, we had the idea to return to Latterbarrow and what a morning we'd had! The luck really was with us.

It was the perfect end to our amazing adventures up north. We were able to drive home happy with all that we'd seen and experienced. I was extra pleased because I was a step closer to seeing all the butterfly species within the UK. On the way home we even discussed the possibility of returning to Cumbria in the summer to see two more new species for me: the High Brown Fritillary and Scotch Argus. That quest would continue, but for now, our wonderful holiday up north had come to an end - but what a trip!

Other Mull Highlights

Thu, 03 Oct 2024 09:13:13 GMT

There's so much to see on and around the Isle of Mull and I was so glad that Bob and I had two weeks to make the most of our time there. I've already written about some of the main wonderful experiences we had - Duart Castle , Iona, Lunga and Staffa , and Otterly Fabulous - but, there was so much more I could have shared. Unfortunately though, that would simply take too long. So, in this post I wanted to share some of the other highlights from our trip.

WEEK 1

During the first half of our stay we were based in Dervaig. We had several trips in to Tobermory, partly because it was the closest place for us to buy any supplies we needed, but also so we could enjoy sauntering around the pretty harbour. The weather was very changeable the whole holiday, so I was grateful we had at least one sunny morning in the town, when the tide was in. The colourful row of buildings look so bright and cheerful. I don't seem to tire of this view. It makes me smile!

From Dervaig we had great access to the areas not only east and west of us, but also to the south. The island is small enough to easily enjoy spending a day in the lower half, which we did on our first otter experience with Brian. On our way back, we drove along the western side of the island passing lots of dramatic and beautiful scenery, like this point in the Glen More area, Loch an Eilein and Loch an Ellen.

We also loved staying at the cottage and enjoying what was on our doorstep, quite literally. It was a fabulous cottage, with a large window that overlooked the reedbeds by the river and the forest and hills beyond. There was a lot of bird activity for us to enjoy every day, including an active pair of Great Tits that were coming and going frequently to a nest that was beneath a concrete slab just outside the window. Then one day, we spotted a fledgling, then another and another. We must have seen at least four as they took it in turns to venture out into the world. Oh, the joys of spring!

Of course, a blog about the Isle of Mull is not complete if there isn't at least one photo of a Highland Cow! We saw these on our walk on the Glengorm Estate. We also saw a pair of White Tailed Eagles soaring in the sky, then one gradually flew down and along the river on the hunt for food. We saw it dip down, only it wasn't a fish, but an unsuspecting seal that seemed quite perturbed by the sudden plunging eagle. Needless to say, the eagle flew off empty handed. We had a fabulous walk, even though we did have to take shelter from the rain a few times. The only disappointment I had was the fact the cafe was closed that day! They sell really good cakes!

Last year, when visiting the island for the first time, I was chatting to a couple on the ferry who were frequent visitors to the island. They shared some great tips on places to visit. One such recommendation was Langamull Beach. I didn't have time to explore it then, but did with Bob this time around. What a gem!

We parked in the car park on the side of the road at precisely the time the heavens opened. It was suddenly chucking it down. We even had hail! We sat tight and waited for it to pass, which thankfully it did within about 20 minutes. It was a very windy day, so the weather changed quickly and frequently throughout the walk.

We hardly passed a soul along the way or down at the beach - probably only partly because of the weather. When we reached the sand, we found a few Ringed Plover wading along the water's edge looking for any tasty treats they could find in the sand. I was able to lie down low on the other side of the water to watch it.

There was also one solitary Dunlin that we saw and a couple of Oystercatchers. We whiled away quite a bit of time watching and photographing them. I stayed low or hidden behind rocks as much as possible, so as not to disturb them, sometimes waiting quite a while for them to walk my way.

The bay was very picturesque and the water looked inviting, when the sun was out. But, I had no intention of going in for a swim on this cool windy day. It takes a lot to get me in the water even down in Worthing on the south coast of England!

Springtime is such a wonderful time for spotting birds, especially fledglings. Throughout our time on the island, we were treated to lots of wonderful encounters. I saw more fledglings on this trip than I've ever seen before in one spring. On the grassy area behind the beach we'd seen a Wheatear and later, on our walk back, we managed to spot a couple of Wheatear fledglings, still looking quite fluffy. On another day, I saw more of the same species on the beach around Loch na Keal (second photo).

It was probably a pair of Whinchats that stole my heart on that day coming back from Langamull Beach. It was the male we saw first, very close to the path, posing beautifully on the ferns. With an insect in its beak, it was clearly on its way to feeding some young hiding in a nest nearby. This is a species I've only seen possibly once before, so I was thrilled to have this fairly close encounter.

We stayed in the vicinity for quite some time making the most of the wonderful opportunity. Then we spotted the female, further away and lower down the bank. The markings on her head and wings weren't quite so dark, so it made it a little easier to distinguish between them.

Despite it being so windy, I attempted to take a few short videos, since they were coming and going fairly frequently from the nest, perching on small branches. I was just watching the male, when the female flew into the frame. Lovely.

Not much further along the track we spotted a male Stonechat, looking equally handsome. This is a species I've seen a lot of, but never get bored with. We turned the corner and then we noticed a small group of juveniles. At first a few were on an old tree stump, but then they moved into a nearby tree. It's lovely when you're lucky enough to see a small family group like this, watching how they interact and stay close together.

There were perhaps two things we were disappointed about on the holiday. The first was that we didn't see a Golden Eagle. The second, was that sadly our boat trip to photograph the White Tailed Eagles was cancelled. Surprisingly, it wasn't on account of the weather, which was certainly a consideration with all the strong winds. It was actually a technical problem that meant the boat couldn't go out for several days. This isn't something that happens often, so we were just unlucky. The following week the boat trips were fully booked, so we couldn't get on to another. They did try to put on another trip for us, but the weather prevented it from happening. Oh well! Such is life! Hopefully, we'll have another opportunity to photograph these impressive birds diving for fish in the future sometime.

On the morning we were due to go out in the boat, we were sitting in front of the large window eating our breakfast, when all of a sudden a White Tailed Eagle flew overhead, not very high above us. It totally took us by surprise! Amazing! It headed directly towards the forest on the far side of the river. What a treat! We didn't have to be on a boat to appreciate this amazing species that is recovering so well on Mull, due to long term conservation efforts. Since the boat trip wasn't happening, we decided to spend the day looking for White Tailed Eagles at Loch na Keal, which I knew was a good place to see them. As we drove around the corner and followed the road along the north side of the loch, the view was very dramatic and impressive.

There was quite a bit of time not seeing much, waiting for an appearance of these massive birds of prey. But, our patience was rewarded eventually. Some of our sightings were quite far away, as the eagles sit in the tops of the trees. But, every now and then, one would fly past nearby. You had to keep looking in all directions or you might miss seeing one. In fact, there was a small group of people all looking at this bird in the tree (photo), they didn't notice another one flying overhead until I called out.

Throughout the day, we spent quite a bit of time photographing and watching the birds by the water, which was when we spotted the juvenile Wheatears (earlier photo). As usual, there were also Oystercatchers, Hooded Crows and I even saw a pair of Common Sandpipers mating. It was over very quickly. They weren't especially close and they were partially hidden by a rock, so the photo wasn't worth posting! Further out into the loch, Bob spotted a Black Guillemot, and there was also a Gannet flying around and diving lots. So, there was plenty to keep us entertained.

Capturing birds on the move can be a challenge, though larger birds are a lot easier than small ones like this Blue Tit. There was a nest inside this tree, so it was seen fairly frequently. The bird was so fast! Trying to capture it flying in was pointless, but anticipating when it would emerge and fly off was a fraction easier.

Not far from the loch, we went in search of dippers (European Dipper). I'd seen an adult in the same area the year before. This time, there was no sign of an adult, but we did see a juvenile. It hasn't developed the characteristic chestnut brown band across the underside and its throat and chest aren't completely white yet. It has a very striking white eyelid, which you can see in the second photo.

You can see why it's called a Dipper.

Before we headed south to our cottage in Pennyghael, we had time to go for a short walk. We decided to follow the cliff path from Tobermory along to the lighthouse. It was fairly sheltered much of the way, which was just as well as it rained some of that time. It was lovely to see a few more woodland birds and more juveniles flying around in small family flocks. There were lots of Chaffinch around, sometimes on the ground and in puddles. I was really lucky to be able to capture this moment when an adult male came in to feed a youngster.

WEEK 2

All our accommodation during our holiday was fabulous for different reasons. I liked our cottage in Pennyghael because it had loads of character and charm. Plus it's position was so good, nestled next to the old stone bridge.

We spent quite a bit of time sitting on 'our' bench admiring the view and when the tide was low, we'd go wondering along the beaches and bays exploring.

One time, I spotted this Golden Ringed Dragonfly just resting on a blade of grass. I don't know how I spotted it! It was just luck that we passed by quite close and that I was paying attention.

Later, when we were walking back along the road towards our cottage, I spotted a Puffin hiding in the grass. I was totally surprised to see it there. It was quite out of place and not where you'd expect to see a Puffin. It soon became apparent why. There was definitely something wrong with it. We kept our distance, just in case it was suffering from Bird Flu. Later on, we found out there was someone living quite nearby who we could report it to. But when we were walked to their house, passing the spot where we'd seen the puffin, it was gone. Having looked up the signs and symptoms, it looks like this poor little bird was actually suffering from Avian Pox, because of the growths around the eye and base of the beak.

Whilst out with Brian on our second day, we had plenty of time to appreciate the other wildlife we could spot after our early morning otter encounter. Using his car as a hide worked well and we were able to get reasonably close to some lovely birds, including a Curlew, Common Snipe and Grey Heron.

A few days later, we decided to get up really early again to see if we could spot any otters around the loch. Although we didn't have success, I really enjoyed being up that early when no one else was on the road - that is, other than some Highland Cows!

The birds were also up and about. It was wonderful to have even more views of fledglings, including this fluffy looking Grey Wagtail.

We kept passing this lovely stone bridge near Loch Beg on our way back to the cottage. So, one time we actually stopped for a short walk and enjoyed the peace and calm.

Sometimes, we didn't even need to walk far from our cottage to enjoy the wildlife. The river right beside where we were staying seemed to be home to a pair of Ringed Plovers and Common Sandpipers. For the most part, they seemed to keep to themselves and co-exist happily.

Towards the end of our week, some Common Sandpiper fledglings emerged from their nest and were seen exploring the riverbed at low tide. It was wonderful to see them. It wasn't the first time for this species on the holiday. At the end of our first day with Brian, we'd been photographing a few very young fledglings on the beach after spotting the otter (top photo). But these ones were older. Whilst I was watching one, a Ringed Plover started harrassing it, nipping at it, I think. I couldn't see clearly. Very quickly, one of the adult sandpipers flew to its aid and there was quite a bit of noise and wing flapping. Several times the little one tried to scurry away. It's wings weren't strong enough to fly far. It happened a few times as it didn't move far enough away at first.

In the photo below, I was focusing on the adult sandpiper as I couldn't see the fledgling. But, it suddenly appeared, trying to fly away. You can see how tiny it is in comparison to the Ringed Plover that's right behind it, with its wings extended out. The little one did eventually make it to safety.

In the evenings at the cottage, we'd keep an eye on the weather, hoping for some dramatic skies. I'd also sit in the window seat upstairs before bedtime and enjoy looking out. It really was a very idyllic spot.

Sadly, we did have to leave the Isle of Mull eventually and start our journey south. At least we still had a few more days to enjoy in Cumbria as well, to break up the journey and extend our holiday that little bit more. I was glad we did. I already mentioned in my previous post that we had a lovely otter sighting on our final morning on the island, which was the perfect end to our stay. We both thoroughly enjoyed ourselves and I could easily have stayed longer! I'm sure I'll go back again in the future. There were so many wonderful highlights and I haven't even mentioned them all!

The next post in the series is Cumbria Highlights .

Otterly Fabulous

Thu, 26 Sep 2024 10:06:35 GMT

Our visit to the Isle of Mull was wonderful in so many different ways. Our outings exploring the area around Duart Castle were unexpectedly great, we also had some brilliant experiences visiting the other smaller islands off the west coast of Mull - Iona, Lunga and Staffa , but it was an Otter I most wanted to see. The question was, would it live up to expectations having had some amazing experiences the previous year. I certainly hoped so, especially as it was Bob's first time to Mull and he'd only had a few otter encounters before, one of which was when he was a young boy.

Like last time, I booked two days with photographer Brian Boyes, but this time a week apart. Even though wildlife sightings are never guaranteed, I knew we stood our best chance of seeing otters with him. He knew the island so much better than us, plus, he could drop us off if we were lucky enough to have sightings and wait for us elsewhere. There aren't always car parks nearby and I was advised you shouldn't park in the passing places. It also meant there were 3 pairs of eyes looking out for our target species, which was definitely an advantage. Of course, over the course of our first day, Brian was also able to educate us on how to look for signs of their presence in an area and more importantly, the best practices for photographing otters - the dos and don'ts - always putting wildlife first and our desires second, which to be honest we always try to keep at the forefront of our minds when we are out in nature.

On that first day, the morning was really slow. We weren't having much luck spotting any otters, though there were plenty of other things of interest to stop and photograph to help pass the time, such as Hooded Crows and Oystercatchers.

I wasn't worried the morning had slipped by without an otter sighting. The same thing happened the previous year. There was still plenty more time available to us and I remained optimistic it was just a matter of time. Funnily enough, it was about lunchtime when we spotted a dog otter (male) out in the water hunting for food. Any thoughts of eating our lunch were far from our mind. Swiftly, but quietly, we exited the vehicle, making sure to close the car doors softly. We made our way down to the beach, only moving when the otter had dived down for food out of sight. When it resurfaced, we stopped moving, crouched down low and waited until it was safe to move again. This is the best way to move into a good spot without disturbing the otter. Eventually, we were both positioned hiding behind a couple of boulders on the beach and we waited...and waited. The dog otter seemed content to stay out in the water eating whatever it had caught. Forty minutes passed and I wondered if it would ever come ashore.

Eventually, it did!

The otter swam ashore with its catch still in its mouth. Only later did I notice that he had a pink nose, which is its nickname. Its these kind of markings that help people to differentiate between the resident otters.

Amazingly, he emerged from the water in line with where I was hiding behind a rock, not much more than five metres away. I couldn't believe my luck. He stopped, shook off some water, and then pawed over the seaweed moving even closer towards me, totally unaware of my presence. He settled into a small dip within metres of me. It didn't mean I had a perfect view though, because there were other rocks between us. But, that didn't worry me. I was simply enjoying the moment.

Although it might look like the otter is biting into the rock in the second photo, he's actually just behind it and the rock is obscuring his catch.

In that moment, I was incredibly grateful I'd purchased my new mirrorless camera only days before the holiday. One of its features and the main selling point for me, is that it is silent. There is no click when I take a photo. In fact, this often threw Bob off, as he wondered when I was going to start taking photos, not realising I was already! This meant I could take photos of the otter really close to me without disturbing it at all.

Eventually, the otter moved off from that spot once he was finished eating. He continued a short way along the shoreline, then scrambled up onto the largest rock in the area. He left his spraint on the top before disappearing down the far side and back into the water.

What a privilege!

Whilst Pink Nose was diving in the water again, we were able to reposition ourselves just a little further along the beach, just in case he came back to shore again. Sure enough, he did, a few times. There wasn't such a long wait either, with just 10 minutes passing between each shore visit. The second time was brief, but it was lovely watching him slink low among the seaweed covered rocks.

The third time, the luck was with Bob. The otter came out right in front of him. I was really pleased he was having his own close encounter. The only problem was, Bob was using a 500mm lens! The head of the otter, with the fish in its mouth, filled the frame of his camera. The otter was too close!

I was off to one side and further away, so I didn't take many photos whilst the otter was just in front of Bob. It wasn't the best angle for me. The following photo was taken at 500mm and I haven't cropped the image. At a guess, I might have been about 10 metres away, if that.

Pink Nose didn't stay there too long. Just three minutes later he was on the move again, evidently quite hungry. He headed in my general direction and continued past me, padding through the seaweed along the shoreline. Effortlessly, he slipped into the water, porpoising along and in no time at all was quite far away. That was the last we saw of him. He vanished into the blue.

The whole encounter only lasted one hour from when we first spotted the otter in the water. But, it felt like so much longer than that, the way the time slowly ebbed away. We were so caught up in the moment, enjoying every second of the time we were able to spend with this impressive dog otter. One of the things we were extremely grateful for, was how we were in a quiet place with hardly any other people around. Only towards the end of that hour did another car drive by and spot us and the otter down on the beach. But, they seemed content just to watch from the comfort of their car.

Bob and I were absolutely thrilled that day! It didn't matter that we didn't see another otter later on. In fact, if that was the only otter we saw on the whole holiday, we would have been happy. However, we did have a second day booked with Brian, which we went ahead with during our second week. By then we'd moved to our next cottage in Pennyghael, on the south side of Loch Scridain. The plan was to try a different area and, because the tide times were quite different, he suggested a very, VERY, early pick up. At least he was able to pick us up from outside where we were staying, which was convenient. We headed off around the loch not passing a single car on the road. We had the place to ourselves. Brilliant.

Unlike the previous week where we had to wait hours before seeing an otter, this time we saw one in about 30 minutes. It was Bob that spotted it in the water. Only it wasn't just one, but two! Oh wow! A female and her pup, which wasn't much smaller than herself. They were quite far away from us, near the edge of the seaweed that was floating in the water. There were very few rocks for us to hide behind, which meant staying quite far back. The rocks were wet and slippery and despite being careful, I slipped over. Thankfully, I was crouched low at the time, so it wasn't a bad fall, landing on my butt!

We watched them from a distance for a short time. They even came ashore to eat and groom for about 15 minutes. But, this meant we couldn't really move or get closer without alerting them of our presence. We needed to move ahead of them and into a better spot, but we had to wait until they returned to the water first.

When we got back into Brian's car, he dropped us off again much further round the bay. He pointed out where we should aim for, where there were lots of rocks for us to hide behind. He then left us to it, moving the car to a parking spot, and patiently waited whilst we got into position out of his view (as it turned out). The two otters were still quite a distance away, so this gave us more time to find a suitable spot. At first, we stayed amongst the higher rocks so we could watch their approach. They were still working their way along the bay, always staying fairly close to the edge of the floating seaweed, periodically diving for fish. I noticed they hadn't gone ashore again since that first time. I just hoped they would near us and not just swim by.

At a suitable time, we scrambled over the rocks to a lower position, having to walk through a bit of water to reach them. We lay down side by side on the slope of the same rock, looking over the top of it towards the water. A short while later the otters came into view. To our amazement, they didn't continue to swim by. They came ashore within about 10 metres of us, once again, in line with our position. What luck! Plus, the light was stunning. The early morning sun was just rising from behind us glowing beautifully on these two gorgeous otters. It made the early start all worthwhile!

The female is on the left and the pup on the right. If you look closely you'll see that the right eye of the pup is missing. I didn't notice it at the time. Despite this disadvantage, the youngster seemed to be faring well, which was a good sign. As you can see, they don't have any fish in their mouths. This time they came ashore to rest.

Well actually, it looked like the mum wanted to rest, but the pup was a bit more fidgety. Sadly, whilst not much was happening, the sun slipped behind some clouds and we lost the best of the light. Patiently, we waited to see what might happen next. The mum was ever watchful, always on alert, though they seemed to be unaware of us. I'm not sure what sounds she heard, because to us it was very quiet and peaceful. We only heard one large vehicle drive by the whole time we were there.

It was lovely to watch them grooming themselves and shake off the water from their fur. It was a great opportunity to switch to video mode and capture some of that action. I especially love the movement of the mum's tail as she shakes.

I never imagined I'd have the opportunity to see two otters interacting in this way. It was such a joy and pleasure to see this bond and how they groomed each other. It was such a special moment.

For quite some time we enjoyed watching them, without taking any photos. But the tide was one the way in, and we could see it edging closer to their position. They'd be in the water again before long. We also had to be careful, because we could easily be cut off from the shore, if we left it too late to retreat. However, we couldn't bring ourselves to leave first. We waited for the two of them to head off fishing again before making a move.

For just over an hour and a half we had the pleasure of observing their behaviour. They headed off at 7.10am and we still had quite a bit of the day remaining to explore with Brian. However, we didn't see any more otters. Not that we were complaining. We'd had two wonderful encounters, each unique and unforgettable. The experiences far exceeded our expectations. We were so grateful to Brian for his patience, and sharing his knowledge and passion for otters with us.

They weren't our only attempts to spot otters. Since our cottage was located beside Loch Scridain, on a couple of occasions when the tide was out, we enjoyed walking along the beaches and bays nearby to see if we could see any then. But sadly, we didn't have success. We also woke up really early another morning to see if we could find the same two again, but we didn't have joy with that either, though we saw other things of interest.

On our last full day on the island, the weather forecast was not great. It was overcast and a bit windy and rain was on its way. Since we'd done most of the things we had wanted to already, we decided to take it easy, stay local, get some fresh air and see if we could spot some birds during the morning, whilst it was still dry. The plan was to come back for lunch and relax in the cottage in the afternoon. Only, that's not quite how things worked out!

We headed to the north side of the loch in the car. Although bird watching was on the agenda, we always kept a watchful eye open for otters. But, we saw none. However, we did see lots of other people doing the same thing as us, a little spread apart along the loch side. We found a quiet spot on some rocks away from everyone else. We had a good view in both directions if an otter was close to the shoreline, and also looking further out into the bay. But, still nothing near us. However, Bob was sure that an otter had been spotted closer to where some of the other people were standing around, by the way they were looking through their binoculars. I wasn't convinced, but we decided to head over that way anyway and reparked the car. Sure enough, he'd been right, one had been seen, though it had temporarily disappeared.

We didn't have to wait that long before we spotted it out in the water. It stayed off shore, but was gradually moving along the loch. Although most of the people remained where they were, we decided to get ahead of the otter, like we'd done on our previous encounters. We swiftly walked along the road, trying to keep an eye on roughly where the otter was. Unfortunately, we briefly lost sight of exactly where it was, but I figured it would reapprear soon enough. What I hadn't expected was for it to have already caught up with us. We'd just dropped down onto a beach we could easily access and were walking along the rocks, when suddenly, I noticed the otter walking along the lower stretch of the beach, but coming towards us and up into the grassy area. I quickly alerted Bob. Immediately, we crouched down low and watched how it sipped some freshwater from a brook, then had a shakedown to dispel the water from its fur. Then it moved onwards, staying low. Fabulous!

The otter, a female we think, found herself a bed of seaweed to lie down on and in no time at all she was having a light nap. Periodically, she would wiggle around and groom herself, and then close her eyes again. We didn't dare move, in case of disturbing her. So we remained at the back of the beach, sheltered somewhat from the rain that had started, nestled as close as we could to the scrub. Hunkered down, we continued to watch her.

I loved the way she would roll around. It was fabulous to sometimes have a glimpse of her hands and feet.

At one point, a Common Sandpiper walked right past the sleeping otter! She certainly was enjoying her long rest.

We waited for something more to happen...for an hour! I was really uncomfortable by then, and hungry. Thankfully, and rather fortuitously, I had put a cereal bar in my pocket just in case we got peckish, so we shared that while we patiently waited. Unfortunately, we hadn't been so forward thinking to put on our waterproofs. By this time we were really wet! We hadn't expected to be out so long. More importantly, I was anxious about keeping my camera out of the rain. Most of the other people who'd been watching from the road had either given up, or had retreated to their cars.

Finally, the otter stirred and stretched, and was on the move. Any hopes of her coming along the beach again were dashed when she made a beeline for the water.

She returned to shore quite quickly though with a crab in her mouth, not much further along the beach. So that was worth waiting for. Then she went off hunting again.

We could have gone back to the cottage at that point. But, despite us both being very wet, we felt we should stick with her a bit longer and see what might happen next. She remained out in the water diving, then eating when she resurfaced, repeating this process for quite a while. But, as she did so, she continued to drift along the loch in the same general direction, so it was time to move ahead again. By this time, there were only two others still watching her. They also were walking ahead and ironically stopped exactly where we had been sitting that morning, several hours before. I thought about all that we would've missed if we'd remained there all morning, or simply gone back to the cottage.

We didn't want to crowd the other two, so we continued onwards, hoping the otter wouldn't suddenly change direction. At the end of the beach there was a large inaccessible area where the cliffs fell straight into the water. So, we took a chance and continued beyond there on to the next accessible bit of beach, which must have been in the region of 100m further on. It meant we lost track of the otter until we were on the other side.

Once we were standing at the water's edge, looking back down the loch side, we could see her still hunting, but a lot closer than I was expecting. She was working her way along quite swiftly. Within no time at all, she had made her way to the beach where we were waiting, once again hiding behind rocks. Almost as soon as she reached the beach, she came ashore, with yet another crab in her mouth.

Notice the difference between this last photo when she is emerging from the water and the next, once she's had a shakedown. Her fur looks very different, especially around the head. All the otters we photographed on the trip were in saltwater lochs, but these are river otters. Every day they will retreat up freshwater streams that feed into the lochs, so they can clean their fur.

At one point the otter straightened up in a more alert pose. Something further behind us had disturbed her, but at that point in time we had no idea what. Thankfully, she didn't seem threatened because she stayed where she was and didn't head back into the water straight away.

After coming ashore, she actually edged closer to our position and we were able to have a few last wonderful photos of this fabulous otter.

Once again, she was lying down and wiggling around amongst the seaweed. I think we were a little concerned she'd fall asleep again, but she didn't thankfully. She stayed there for about 20 minutes before heading off again.

This time when she sloped off into the water we didn't move to another position - we let her go in peace. We'd had an amazing two hours in her company and had another truly memorable otter occasion. It was perhaps more special for us because we'd found the otter without the help of a guide and for the most part we'd been alone with her. It was only after she was gone that we stood up and turned around to discover we weren't alone on that beach. There were five others in different positions behind us.

By this time, we were wet, cold and very hungry. It was 3pm and it was time to head back to the cottage to dry off, warm up and eat. So much for a relaxing afternoon indoors reading! But, I wouldn't have changed a thing! I loved every minute of our day.

There was one more final otterly fabulous treat for us before we departed for mainland Scotland on our final morning. Whilst we were sitting down eating our breakfast, Bob spotted an otter in the bay. All week I'd wanted to see an otter from the cottage and we finally did. It remained in sight whilst we finished eating and even when we were loading up the car. Every now and then I'd glance over towards it, smiling, before going back indoors for the next load to carry out. It was a lovely final memory of a wonderful time spent on Mull.

The next post in the series is Oth er Mull Highlights .

Visiting Islands Iona, Lunga and Staffa

Wed, 18 Sep 2024 17:02:17 GMT

June 2024

It was really wonderful to have two full weeks on the beautiful Isle of Mull in the spring. It gave us plenty of time to get around, explore and also relax. I've already written about the three different outings we had to Duart Castle during our time on the island, and how we were staying in Dervaig for the first week. During the second week, we had an equally fabulous self-catering cottage in Pennyghael, along the shores of Loch Scridain, which is in the south west part of the island. It was a great base for visiting the islands off the west coast of Mull via Fionnphort (below).

IONA

On our first day in the south, we headed over to the small inhabited island of Iona. One of the main draws to the island is to hear the sound of the Corncrake calling. It's one of just three places where they still nest in the UK. Breeding pairs have dropped so significantly over the years, as farming practices have changed, it is now considered a rare bird in the UK.

Unfortunately, our best window of opportunity to visit the island was on a day when it was quite windy. It didn't affect our short 10 minute ferry ride across the Sound of Iona, but it meant we'd have next to no chance of hearing the Corncrakes calling above the sound of the wind. There was even less chance of seeing one as they're such a secretive bird, nesting in the tall grasses, staying well out of sight. But, we did at least try to hear them and headed over towards the abbey. On our way there, we walked through the remains of the old nunnery. That was when I spotted this juvenile Pied Wagtail.

Sadly, as predicted, we didn't have any joy hearing the Corncrakes near the abbey, but we did see some other delights in that area, including several hirundines. Although I'd already spent plenty of time photographing the Swallows at Duart Castle, I was just as pleased to see this one perching on the wire. How lovely to be able to fully appreciate the red on the head, its tiny claws clasping the wire and its long tail - none of which you can appreciate when it's on the wing.

Whilst birds were the main attraction for us on the island, I did spot this rather attractive caterpillar. Bob recognised it - a Garden Tiger Moth caterpillar. It wasn't a moth I'd seen before, but as luck would have it, this summer I saw my first one in Bob's garden back home. It's nice to be able to see what the caterpillar may have turned into, if it lived that long.

From the abbey, we walked back towards the village of Baile Mor and then continued southwards along the coast. It was stunning. There were so many lovely little bays along the way and better still, we were able to enjoy some sunshine too, in between rain showers.

When we reached the bend in the road, we followed it heading west across the island for a spell, until we reached a display board. It indicated prime locations for where the Corncrakes were breeding. We took note and throughout the course of the day we visited several of the sites, and others too that looked like good possibilities, but still not a squeak was heard from them.

I really enjoyed our time spent in the lower part of the island. We found a bench on the east side overlooking the beach where we could enjoy our lunch. Then afterwards, we went exploring, walking along the beach and scrambling over the rocks, down as far as Sand Eels Bay. Along the way, a pair of Oystercatchers were making quite a racket. They seemed a bit put out by our presence. We also saw a family of Rock Pipits skulking around the rocks. They blended in so well, it was easy to lose sight of them until they began fluttering their wings again. Then as we headed north again, closer to some grassy areas, we spotted some Wheatears and Meadow Pipets (below). The one on the post was seen close to the abbey. We tried one last time to hear the Corncrakes in that area, approaching this time from the east side. But needless to say, we still didn't have any luck.

By this time, we decided to head to the gift shop and console ourselves with an ice cream each. We sat outside to eat them, even though it was still quite windy. Then suddenly, Bob said he heard a Corncrake. Sadly, I didn't hear anything. We sat quietly listening a while longer, but still nothing. So finally, we decided to head back towards the ferry, but to retrace our steps heading through the field and along the east side of the abbey. It was possible we might both get lucky, if the wind dipped enough. As we walked across the field, I saw another Wheatear and then a Hooded Crow. It was great to get the opportunity for a fairly close photo, and low down. It's a species we don't see in the south very often. Only if one is passing through.

With a little time still on our hands, we decided to sit down and rest for a while, near a wall, which provided us with some shelter from the wind. Facing eastwards, we were admiring the tall yellow Irises, whilst still listening out for the call of a Corncrake. Then suddenly, up popped a Sedge Warbler. Beautiful! I'd only seen one once before, but that time it was partly obscured by the tree it was in so I didn't get very good views of it. This time, it was clear as day perched at the top of the Iris. It was fabulous.

We remained seated on the ground a bit longer. Then suddenly, I heard it - a faint quack! It sounded just like one of those fake quacking noisemakers. Bob heard it too and we smiled at each other. Then we both heard it again, a bit clearer and louder. Excellent! Our patience paid off. Finally, we could leave happy!

LUNGA

Three days later, we were back at Fionnphort, but this time for a boat trip that would include both the islands of Lunga and Staffa. They are both a fraction of the size of Iona. We'd pre-booked this one months ahead, to make sure we didn't miss out. We were so lucky, because the weather was not so great on the island, but out at sea it was much better and the day started well with some lovely sunshine and not too much wind.

We had a couple of hours to spend on Lunga. To be honest, that wasn't really enough time, especially as we were keen to spend as much time as possible photographing the seabirds. We just had to make the most of the time we did have.

After we disembarked from the boat, making use of a floating pontoon, we scrambled over the rocks and made up way up to higher land. There was a good point where we could divert away from the path and overlook the water below. That was when we spotted a female Common Eider and her nine fluffy little ducklings.

Not far from them, on the rocks, was another youngester - a juvenile Oystercatcher, looking equally fluffy. It didn't possess the vibrant coloured red bill and legs that is so characteristic of the adult bird, but its bill was somewhat red, if not quite so bright.

We didn't linger there too long and followed the path up the cliff, past the first viewing area, which was really good for Puffins, and then continued onwards all the way to Dun Cruit. We'd been advised this was worth doing. It was the furthest point to walk to for seeing the seabirds. From there we could gradually work our way backwards. The path was steep and narrow in places, but worth the effort. The sight of all the seabirds nesting on the cliff opposite us was stunning. The noise was quite something too. The smell was less pleasing, but after a while I stopped noticing it!

That's a lot of Guillemots!

The Common Guillemots nest so close together. It's amazing that a pair can even find each other in the crowd when one goes out to sea for food and then later returns.

It was surprising how close we were to the seabirds on our side of the cliff. Though naturally, we didn't get too close to the edge, where they were perched. The Guillemots have a chocolate brown colour with a white belly when in the summer plumage, plus a fairly long thin bill compared with the Razorbills, which were alongside them on the clifftops.

Something I hadn't noticed before, when I've been to other seabird colonies in the UK and overseas, was that some had a white ring around the eye and extending backwards. This is known as a bridled morph. Apparently, this occurs at a greater frequency the more northerly you see them within their range. I was glad I had the opportunity to photograph the two different forms in the same photo, so you can clearly see the difference.

The Razorbills are also really striking and elegant and similar looking to the Guillemots in the body, however, they're black and white. Their bill is much thicker and shorter, with a white stripe down the tip and a white line extending from the eye to the bill. They also have a really striking orange mouth, which you can see a glimpse of below.

It was lovely to watch a pair bonding nearby. There was some beak contact and then a bit of scratching under the chin. I watched as one tilted its head back and then closed its eyes, as if experiencing absolute pleasure. Humans are not the only creatures to experience bliss.

Although there were lots of seabirds on the cliffs, many were flying around. There were constant comings and goings. A Great Skua was seen high above patrolling menacingly, probably hoping to steal some food from one of the other seabirds. There were a good number of Kittiwakes too. They're quite an elegant gull species, with their dark wingtips on an otherwise white and pale grey body and wings. It was fun trying to capture the birds in flight, but also very frustrating at times.

We also spotted a few Shags, like this one that flew in. It's funny how its body was facing one way, but his head was turned looking the opposite direction. Their long neck make that quite easy for them.

I wasn't just paying attention to those birds close to the cliff edges, there were some rocks behind us too and my attention was diverted to here for a while. For one reason, I saw a Shag nesting amongst the rocks. It was a fabulous opportunity to see one more clearly and much closer. They have quite amazing green eyes.

I also saw this male Wheatear coming and going from the rocks near the Shag and I soon found out why. A juvenile popped up out of a hole below the rocks where it had been hiding. I crept up slowly and quietly, hiding behind a rock myself, so as not to disturb it. Gorgeous!

Of course, it was the Puffins we wanted to see the most. I'm sure they're the lure for most people visiting the island. They are such characters! There's just something about the way they look that is so loveable. The red ring around their eye, the white face and of course, the striking colourful bill. Though, it's worth pointing out they don't always look this good (shown here in summer breeding plumage). In winter, the colour of the bill is less vibrant and the white on the face can be more grey, like they've been in a fight with some soot!

Like the Razorbill, they've also got a stunning orange mouth. It's a treat to get a view inside, and to see that orange tongue!

As we began our walk back along the path towards the main viewing area, we'd see some Puffins sitting on rocks and ledges and sometimes, a head would just pop up from out of nowhere. Although we couldn't always easily see it, there were so many burrows in the rock walls below us that were out of view.

As I already have a lot of flying Puffin photos from previous visits to Skomer Island in Wales, I spent more time watching their behaviour. Sometimes, they would spontaneously flap their wings, without taking flight. There was also quite a bit of scratching and preening.

Puffins seem used to the daily visitors that frequent this uninhabited island. They can display some curiosity towards us, but most of the time they went about their daily business ignoring us.

During the final 30 minutes of our visit, we both attempted some flying shots, even though the direction of the wind and the position of the sun wasn't favourable. I noticed not many of them were flying past with sand eels in their mouth, which was a bit disappointing and worrying. I hope it wasn't a sign that they were struggling to find the food source they need to feed their chicks.

STAFFA

From Lunga we headed to the island of Staffa. We only had an hour to spend there, but that was probably sufficient.

As we approached, we were immediately struck by the stunning basalt columns along the coast, which is similar to the Giant's Causeway in Northern Ireland.

We were lucky because our boat was one of the last to arrive on the island, which meant towards the end of the landing there were fewer people milling about. Most of our fellow passengers headed directly to Fingal's Cave after disembarking. However, knowing it would be really crowded, we decided to head in the opposite direction and go there a bit later.

We walked up onto the top of the cliffs and followed a path winding in towards the centre of the island first. We spotted a pair of Great Skuas on top of a hill and then flying above us briefly, before disappearing somewhere else. We then headed towards the coast again and saw several Shags standing like they do, with their wings held outwards to dry. There was also a seal hauled out on a rock.

From there we headed towards Fingal's Cave. Lots of people were passing us, heading back towards the boat, but no one else was heading in our direction. We stepped over the hexagonal columns, which were like stepping stones, following the line of the cliff wall. When we made it to the cave itself, there were only about half a dozen people there and a few divers wearing wetsuits swimming in the water. We took a few photos and then realised we were the only ones present on dry land. It was lovely to have a few quiet moments to ourselves and to capture a rare photo with no one in it. Although I've been to the Giant's Causeway, I was so struck with awe by the amazing rock formations at the cave and along the coastline. If only we could have spent a bit more time there to appreciate it!

It was a particularly poignant moment for Bob as Mendelssohn's Herbrides Overture, written after his visit to Fingal's Cave in 1829, was a piece he was extremely fond of and very familiar with. It evoked lots of memories for him, as his parents loved the music too. I think it was a little surreal for him to actually be there in person. I'm pretty sure he could hear the music playing in his head, he knows it that well. Needless to say, I've heard it quite a few times myself now, and it's a lovely piece of classical music. So now, when we listen to it, it will bring back the memoies of our time there.

From Staffa we headed back to Fionnphort. There was just one more little treat for us on our return journey. As we motored through the Sound of Iona a small pod of dolphins came and swam alongside us for a while. There was a distinct buzz of excitment in the air. We only had brief glimpses of them because of where we were standing on the boat, but they were lovely to see nonetheless. It was the perfect end to a great day out. If we return to the Isle of Mull in the future, I'm sure we'll be doing that trip all over again!

The next post in the series is Otterly Fabulous.

Wildlife At Duart Castle

Sun, 08 Sep 2024 20:12:37 GMT

June 2024

We had a great start to our extended holiday, seeing the Chequered Skipper butterfly on our first evening in Scotland, having a fabulous stay in Fort William , and then seeing the Black Guillemots In Oban on our way to the Isle of Mull. I felt sure our luck would continue and we'd have a fabulous two weeks on the island. During the first week, we stayed in a wonderful self-catering cottage in Dervaig, in the northwest. Although most of our time that week was spent in this part of the island, on our first day we drove back east to Duart Castle, which we'd seen the day before from the ferry.

The castle was quite imposing, sitting on top of the cliff walls overlooking the water, where the Sound of Mull meets Loch Linnhe and Firth of Lorn. As you can see it was a glorious sunny day. But, what you can't see is just how blooming windy it was! Not the most ideal conditions for looking for butterflies and moths, but as you may have come to realise, the weather seldom puts us off! Most people were indoors doing a tour of the castle or enjoying the delights of the cafe, but we were too busy outdoors to venture inside, being entertained by nature. We rather liked having the place more or less to ourselves too.

The purpose of our visit was two-fold. We were both keen to see some Marsh Fritillaries - a species I'd only seen for the first time the previous year in Wiltshire - and Bob was also hoping to find the very rare Slender Scotch Burnet Moth. It's a subspecies only found on Mull. Unfortunately, despite looking for quite a while, we didn't find any of these Burnet Moths, but the Marsh Fritillary did welcome us pretty much as soon as we arrived. We'd only walked down a slight slope from the car park and along the footpath about 10m, when we spotted one in front of us, settled on the ground on the path. It was ridiciulously easy compared to our search in Wiltshire.

The pattern on the wings of this male Marsh Fritillary is so striking, despite the fact it is really faded and worn. There was damage to the scales on the wings and also the pale fringe was virtually non exisitent. But these are beautiful butterflies! I didn't mind at all and was happy photographing them wherever I found them, if I could get an interesting shot or good angle. Whilst we meandered around the coast by the castle, I noticed there was a lot of the pretty pink Sea Thrift adorning the rocks and craggy outcrops. I'd been looking for an opportunity to photograph some, so when I saw a Marsh Fritillary nectaring on a patch, I couldn't resist.

As we slowly meandered around the narrow footpaths, we were lucky enough to see over 30 Marsh Fritillaries settling on plants, flowers or on the ground, sometimes disturbing them into flight because we hadn't even spotted them. At one point, there were three flying together near us, but moving further away. Bob said they were almost certainly two males chasing the female in the hopes of mating with her. As I heard him say the words, I kept my eyes on them flying away. One flew off in a different direction, obviously having given up. But the other male was still in pursuit. I didn't take my eyes off them, when they suddenly both dropped down into the grass. I made a mental note of where they were and noticed the taller plants nearby. Bob continued to look for the Burnet Moth he was hoping to see, but I wanted to go and find out whether the female had been receptive to the male's pursuit and made my way over to where I'd spotted them go down.

At first, I found one Marsh Fritillary sitting on a blade of grass alone. I had no idea if this was one of the two I'd just seen. I was just about to squat down low to take a few photos regardless, when I realised there was another one within a foot of where I was standing. It hadn't budged an inch. Thankfully, I hadn't disturbed it despite being so close. I carefully stepped back again. Perhaps these were the two I'd seen flying, though they were about a metre apart. At that point it didn't even occur to me to see if they were a male and female. But, after taking a few photos, I got my answer. I don't recall why I glanced to my left. Perhaps I'd seen some movement. But, once again, probably a foot away from me, I found the pair I had seen flying and they were now mating! Brilliant! I was so chuffed I'd found them!

It was fabulous being able to have such a good view of their underwings and to be able to compare the difference between the male (left) and female (right). The female was noticeably larger, lighter coloured and fresher looking. You can actually see the dark veins that extend into the pale fringe on her. The pale fringe on the male is all but gone. That's one of the things I remember whenever seeing mating butterflies. The male is invariably the tattier looking one. They generally emerge earlier than the females, waiting for their chance to mate.

I was thrilled when they both momentarily opened their wings wide. Not only were we able to see the difference in the markings and colouration of the upper wings, but also appreciate the difference in abdomen size. The female has a much wider rounder abdomen. Even Bob was thrilled to see the mating pair when I called him over. I think it helped take away some of the disappointment in not finding the Burnet Moth species he was hoping to see.

We actually visited Duart Castle three times in the end during our stay on Mull. The second time was at the end of the first week and the last time right at the end of our stay. Bob was ever hopeful of finding the Slender Scotch Burnet Moth, but unfortunately it wasn't to be on any of our three visits. The wet spring had probably delayed their emergence this year and we were probably a few weeks too early.

On our subsequent visits, we saw fewer Marsh Fritillaries and those we did were much more worn. I was very pleased we found this beauty perched on a Heath Spotted Orchid (above). At first, it was hiding behind the flower, but eventually, it moved into a better position for me to photograph it. I tried several times on our first visit to capture a video of a Marsh Fritillary nectaring on a flower, but the wind made it impossible for the camera to focus on the butterfly for more than a few seconds. I felt sorry for the butterfly being blown about on the flowerhead, clinging on, as the flower swayed and dipped repeatedly with each gust of wind. I gave up on the video in the end. To be honest, it was still quite windy on our other two visits too.

There were lots of other wildlife treats for us that first day. So much so, we ended up staying a lot longer than we'd planned. But sometimes those spontaneous kinds of days can be the best. You go with one thing in mind, but you find something else grabs your attention, which you enjoy equally as much, if not more.

I spotted some Large Red Damselflies mating, whilst basking on a rock near a rock pool, right by the coast. If you look closely, you can see the dark bands along the abdomen of the female (absent in the male), which are partly obscured by her wings.

I also spotted this colourful creature, without any clue what it was. I've looked it up and it's a Cuckoo Wasp, also known as a Ruby-tailed Wasp - for obvious reasons ( Chrysis ignita ). It's actually a parasitoid, but thankfully for humans it doesn't sting.

There were quite a few Meadow Pipits flying around. One was seen on top of a large boulder and I was able to sneak up fairly close, hiding behind another large boulder nearby. Periodically, it would fly up high and 'parachute' down. It was quite bizarre. I'd not seen anything like it before. I was quite intrigued as I watched it slowly float down. Bob explained it's a common display flight in spring. Our other Pipit species also do this 'parachuting'.

I love that I learn something new every day! In fact, usually more than one thing!

Later, I saw a Meadow Pipit flying down to a path not far away from me, but out of sight, obscured by the grass. Slowly, I quietly inched along the path until I could see it. Crouching down, I was able to take a few photos without scaring it off. I love this action shot as it's lifting up its foot. It's a beautiful little bird. Though it looks like a Song Thrush, it's much smaller. The markings on its head, back and wings were much more striking than a Song Thrush. Having said that, I do love a Song Thrush too. As luck would have it, I saw one that day too. It was a little bolder, standing tall in amongst the grasses and wildflowers. It's another beauty with its delightful and distinctive song. We didn't get to enjoy it on this windy day, but it's one of my favourite sounds of springtime.

The unexpected star of the show that first day at Duart Castle was the Narrow-bordered Bee Hawk-moth. The very same species I'd spotted in Glen Loy in Fort William earlier in the week. That first time of seeing one, the moth had only just emerged. Its wings had not fully developed and we didn't see it fly. But, on this occasion, we were treated to loads of flying action. What a thrill it was trying to capture the action. Bob and I were hooked and mesmerised for over an hour. It moved about quickly from one flower to the next, just like the similar Hummingbird Hawk-moth, another favourite I love to see back home in Sussex. Whilst the latter hovers whilst nectaring, the Bee Hawk-moth at least rested its legs temporarily on the Bird's Foot Trefoil as it uncurled its proboscis and sucked out the nectar. It amazed me how quickly it would do it though and move from one flowerhead to the next. Then suddenly it would fly a couple of meters away - aided by the wind of course. It took a lot of patience and tenacity to keep up with it. We think there were at least two individuals, but we couldn't be certain if there were more.

You can clearly see from these photos why it's called the Narrow-bordered Bee Hawk-moth. I also love the shot with the curled up proboscis, in flight. There were dozens of photos that were deleted to find just these half a dozen keepers! It's truly a stunning species and quite magical to watch.

I may have given up on videoing the Marsh Fritillary nectaring on the flowers, but I did have a little success with capturing the Bee Hawk-moth nectaring.

The afternoon flew by, with both of us engrossed in photographing and videoing the Hawk-moth. But that wasn't where the fun ended for me. Whilst Bob remained down by the coast, my attention shifted to the aerial displays of the Swallows over the lawned green between the car park and the castle. There were quite a few of them flying about, trying to capture insects on the wings, most likely to feed their young. It was almost continual. The challenge though, is how they seldom fly straight and in one direction. They wheel, dive, turn and swoop quickly and unexpectedly. With my camera set to a fast shutter speed, I tried tracking one as best I could, hoping it would maintain its direction long enough for me to gain focus and fire off a few consecutive frames. A burst like this means there are lots of photos captured in a short space of time. Going through them afterwards can be laborious, but when you have a few good ones, it makes it worth all the effort. These won't win any prizes, but I'm pleased with them.

When we returned the second time the weather was slightly different and not quite as sunny, but I had another stab at it, whilst Bob was looking for the Slender Scotch Burnet Moths again.

It's lovely to be able to appreciate the lovely white spots in the tail in the above photo, plus how the extended outer tail feathers fork distinctively. It's such a stunning species to watch. I love Swallows!

On our final visit, we wandered around the coastal area again below the castle. Bob was still checking out all the Bird's Foot Trefoil for signs of the Slender Scotch Burnet Moth, whilst I was following a different path not too far away. As I approached some brambles and taller scrub, I saw a bird flitting around, but remaining hidden. I stopped, hoping to see it, but it remained out of sight. Eventually, I gave up and continued walking past. I had only moved on about four metres, when I turned towards Bob. Suddenly, from the corner of my eye, I spotted this tiny little bird fly right towards me, low. It took me by surprise! Even more so, when it landed on my lower leg! I peered down at what was evidently a juvenile, seeing its claws clasping my beige trouser leg. What an amazing, delightful, surprising moment! Within seconds, it flew away back to safety amongst the brambles. I had to wait a little longer before I was able to identify the bird. An adult appeared, perching on the brambles. It was a Common Whitethroat.

Gradually, we worked our way around towards the west side of the peninsula, towards Duart Bay. We were looking for a good spot to have our lunch, where we might be shielded a bit from the wind. That was when I spotted this caterpillar. I didn't need to use Obsidentify on this one, as Bob recognised it as being an Emperor Moth caterpillar. When it grows up, it will turn into this stunning moth. I was lucky enough to photograph the mature adult male in April of this year with Bob, when we were on the South Downs. Notice just how large and feathered the antennae are. This is so important for the males so they can smell the pheromones that the female secretes specifically to lure the males to her for mating.

We scrambled over the rocks by the bay and located a dry flat one to sit on for lunch. It was a lovely spot, overlooking the water. We kept our eyes open for waterbirds and anything interesting. Earlier we'd seen some Gannets flying past (too far away to photograph) but on this occasion we had the pleasure of a Shag fly-by.

I often get confused between these and Cormorants, so I decided to look it up and make note of some of the obvious key features to help me tell the difference. Firstly, the bill in the Shag is much more slender, delicate and straight, with this yellow patch at the base of the bill. Otherwise, it's pretty much black/dark all over. The Cormorant bill on the other hand is much thicker, and is curved at the tip. Although it has a yellow base to the bill, it also has a large white patch below the yellow. You can see this in the photo below, which I took a few years ago in Sussex. (In its summer plummage, the Cormorant also has white patches on its head and body.) We'll see if I remember all this the next time I see either species! Having written this blog there's at least a better chance!

As we were sitting quietly on a rock eating our lunch, another species did a fly-by, seemingly not realising we were there until it was closer. It was an Oystercatcher - flying right towards us! They're usually flying the other way and very skittish when you get even remotely near them.

But, the highlight of the afternoon were the Red-breasted Mergansers. Now, in all honesty, at the time we weren't sure if they were Eurasian Goosanders. It's another similar pair of species. I figured I'd take the photos and worry about the ID later! The colouring is similar but apparently the best way to tell them apart is that the Red-breasted Mergansers have a bit of a 'mohican' on their head. They are also the only ones to frequent saltwater apparently.

It was quite extraordinary to watch the behaviour of this female. She would swim along and every so often, extend her neck, open her beak and dip her head down and forwards. Whether this was part of courtship behaviour I'm not sure, since I didn't notice any males nearby. But it was very intriguing to watch and capture on camera.

They swam really close to where we were sitting, giving us lovely views of them. One time, I was lucky enough to capture the moment one female started to 'run on water' just before taking off. It's always lovely to capture these kinds of moments, not just because of the motion of the bird, but seeing the big splash of water in the wake of where it had been sitting just moments before.

It was interesting to note the different things we saw on each of our three visits, over the course of the two weeks. Each day had its own delights, but overall, it was the Narrow-bordered Bee Hawk-moth that I loved the most and had so much fun trying to photograph and video.

If you'd told me 10 years ago that I'd be getting excited about insects, I wouldn't have believed you. But, in many ways, as my interest in nature has developed, I've come to appreciate and love all sorts of different creatures from large to small. They are all part of our planet and worthy of attention, admiration and appreciation. It's the big mammals that usually get a lot of press and attention, but beauty can be found in all sorts of surprising ways and places. For me, there is a joy in being open-minded about what I might see and learn. The more I look, the more I notice. The more I notice, the more curious I become. The more curious I am, the more I want to learn. The more I learn, the more I appreciate. The more I appreciate, the more I love the natural world.

I hope by sharing my experiences in nature it helps to inspire others to enjoy it and become more curious too.

The next post in the series is Visiting Islands Iona, Lunga and Staffa .

Black Guillemots In Oban

Sat, 31 Aug 2024 16:48:28 GMT

31st May 2024

This is the next post in the series about my extended holiday up north in the spring. Having had a great start in Fort William , including looking for the Chequered Skipper butterfly, we then moved on to the Isle of Mull. We travelled south to Oban, where we would be catching the ferry across to the island. We timed it such so that we would have some time to walk around the harbour and look for the Black Guillemots that are known to breed there, right in the harbour wall. We managed to park nearby and it didn't take long before we saw a black head sticking out from a hole in the wall right beneath us.

We were able to walk to a lower position, by the water's edge, to observe their comings and goings. Their bright red legs and feet are stunning against the contrast of their black bodies, which is what differentiates them from Common Guillemots. The latter species were the only ones I'd seen before that day. I was quite enthralled by the Black Guillemots. They're so striking!

We only saw about a dozen of them at most. There were some hiding in the nests within the wall and some were swimming around on the water not far away. At one time, I suddenly spotted a pair mating. The male climbed up onto the female's back, balancing rather precariously. She remained hunkered down low, whilst waiting for him to do his business. Then a few seconds later, it was all over. It really was over so quickly! He slid off as she lifted up and inched forward, looking as though she were wiping her behind along the rock. Then, she stood upright, glancing my way. I felt a little guilty I caught them in the act!

The birds would sometimes fly off just a short distance or further out, and then circle back in. Some even stayed further out, presumably to go fishing for food. It was a great opportunity for me to practice some action shots with my new mirrorless camera. With its advanced tracking capabilities, I was really impressed with the results, keeping the bird in focus as it moved.

I love these kind of action shots, especially when you can see their amazing red legs. They look like they're running on water. What's even more striking is when you see inside their beak. The red is such a surprise the first time.

It was also fun watching them have a bath in the water, semi-submerging themselves, then coming up and shaking off the water quickly. They open out their wings as they do so, lifting up out of the water more than usual, almost as though they're standing up.

It was a lot easier capturing the Black Guillemots flying, when they started off in the water and were taking off. They gradually accelerated and their direction of travel and movement was more predictable. Trying to photograph one of them as it comes in to land, either on the water or on the harbour wall was much harder. They were so quick and difficult to track. But, I had a lot of fun trying and was pleased with the next two photos.

I love how they open out their wings and widen their legs, splaying their tail feathers, all to help them slow down, just before they land in the water.

Bob and I were both sitting on a low wall that jutted out into the water. Evidently, the tide didn't submerge the part where we sat, but to the right of where we were looking, the wall was completely covered in seaweed. Our attention was focused along the base of the harbour wall, but at one point, Bob turned to look at me and saw a Black Guillemot had snuck up onto the wall without us realising. It had to be less than eight metres from me. It certainly didn't seem bothered by our presence. It sat in the amongst the seaweed, preening itself and then shaking off some water. I couldn't even extended the lens out to its full reach of 500mm or the bird would have completely filled the frame.

We also were lucky enough to witness some courtship behaviour. I often saw two birds swimming around in circles. Sometimes it looked a bit more aggresive than I was expecting, with prodding, poking and nipping at each other. I'm guessing this was mostly the male trying to get the female's attention. I can think of better ways to win over a mate! The best part about it was being able to see inside the beak again and to see the red legs underwater moving about frantically as they danced around in circles. It reminds me of synchronised swimmers! You often don't see the frantic movements below water when above it can look so calm.

After a joyful hour of watching the behaviour of the Black Guillemots, we left them to have our lunch. I had so much fun and it was a great way to break up an otherwise uneventful travel day.

The next post in the series is Wildlife at Duart Castle .

Spring In Fort William

Mon, 26 Aug 2024 19:18:18 GMT

May 2024

This is the second post about my extended holiday up north earlier this year with my partner Bob. Our main focus during our first week of the holiday, whilst being based in Fort William, was looking for the Chequered Skipper butterfly, a species new to me. But, there were lots of other wildlife delights during that week.

We left home on the Sunday of the late May Bank Holiday and drove up to Keswick in the Lake District for an overnight stop. Although we had hoped to fit in a butterfly foray in the late afternoon, that wasn't to be and instead we walked around the town and on to Derwent Water nearby. In the afternoon, lots of people were walking along the footpaths, or relaxing on the grass or by the water's edge. But later, when we returned after dinner, there were far fewer people. We enjoyed a lovely peaceful evening stroll and watched a probable Goosander gliding along the water, occasioanlly diving down for food. By this time, the light had improved. The sun was catching the tops of the clouds, reflected nicely in the water. There was a light breeze that caused a gentle rippling of the water that was very calming.

When we made our way back into town, we walked along one of the narrow streets and some Swifts flew overhead quite close to us. It was in that playful manner, calling to each other - virtually squeaking with delight it seemed. I've never really heard this before, or at least been aware of it. We stopped a few times to appreciate the sound and watched with pleasure as they performed their aerial display. I think Bob was even more thrilled than me, reminiscing of days gone by when Swift numbers were far more numerous back home.

The next day we drove on to Fort William, which overlooks Loch Linnhe. We were staying in a luxury pod overlooking the loch, which was stunning. Ironically, we were on the same piece of land where I'd stayed many years before, only I hadn't realised it until we arrived, because the cottage I'd stayed in had been demolished and a new building stood in its place.

As mentioned in my first post, that first evening we went to Glen Loy, looking for the Chequered Skipper. What I didn't mention is how I forgot to apply some insect repellent on my face. Big mistake! Even though I was wearing a hat, the midges found the bare skin and particularly seemed to be drawn to my forehead. I had over 20 bites on it! It looked like I was suffering from measles. With the skin feeling warm and itchy, it wasn't a very pleasant experience and it took several days for the redness to go down!

On that first evening, after finding two Chequered Skippers, I spotted a roosting female Green-veined White. Bob pointed out how the markings on the veins are more pronounced up in Scotland.

The following day I found one again in the same area - it's entirely possible it was the same one. This time, it's wings were open so I could appreciate the upperside and how much darker the veins were on top as well as on the underwing. I've also shared a second open wing photo of a spring female taken in Sussex, to show the north-south contrast that Bob mentioned. These are also more darkly veined than the males and also the second summer brood of females. I never realised before there could be such variety across broods within the same species.

Aside from more Chequred Skipper action on this full day at Glen Loy, we spotted some Small Pearl Bordered Fritillaries. When their wings are open, they do stand out in the lushious tall green grass, but you don't see them easily at a distance, as they're often perched down low. I was just lucky on this occasion. I was tracking this beauty as it dropped down into the grass. I approached really slowly, so as not to spook it.

Soon after spotting the small pearl, my eyes were drawn to a black and white moth flying around. It was extremely flighty. Bob was able to identify it as an Argent and Sable Moth. We followed it quite some way, but it was able to travel a lot quicker than us. It was quite a challenge keeping up with it on uneven terrain and through the boggy grass. After several failed attempts to photograph it, I was pleased to at least have one half decent shot.

Later that morning, we were walking back alongside the road, Bob on one side and me on the other, closer to the river. We were looking for anything of interest really and nothing in particular. Suddenly, I spotted something big partially hidden amongst the grass. I wasn't sure what I was looking at. It looked like a very large bee, but I could see wings too. My first thought was that it was a bee with a butterfly or moth in its mouth. When I moved in closer, I realised it was just one creature, a really large looking bee with wings like a moth. Bob came over and knew exactly what it was. In fact, he mentioned there was a species he was hoping to see and I'd just found it for him! What luck! It was a Narrow-bordered Bee Hawk-moth ( Hemaris tityus ). What a stunner! Although the Chequered Skipper had been my main target of the week, Bob felt this was the find of the week as it's a nationally scarce species.

We had a forced break in the middle of the day, when heavy rain descended. We hurried back to the car and moved off to a different spot further along the road where some passers-by had told us earlier they'd seen more Chequered Skippers and a Whinchat. As it was about 1pm, we happily stayed in the car to eat our lunch and sit out the rain. When it eventually stopped about an hour later, we could venture out again. There was no sign of the Whinchat, which wasn't that surprising, but we did find a couple of Chequered Skippers.

Rather than give up on the area altogether, we returned to where we had been exploring in the morning to take more photos. Gradually we worked our way back towards the bridge and beyond it, following the River Loy further. Of course, in Scotland it would be referred to as a burn, which I like because it's used to describe both a large stream or a small river and I'm not sure I can always tell the difference! This seemed particuarly apt for the shallow water beside us.

On the other side of the bridge, there was a lot of bracken near the edge of the burn - some almost at shoulder height. Very slowly we walked alongside it. All of a sudden, I stopped. To my left, only a few feet away from me, was a gorgeous Small Pearl Bordered Fritillary, with its wings closed up. This is the best way to distinguish it from the Pearl Bordered Fritillary (PBF). You can clearly see there are black chevrons below the 'pearls' along the edge of the hindwing (red in the PBF), plus there are more 'pearls' in the midde of the hindwing (only 2 in PBF).

When its wings were open I could see it was a female (by the shape of the abdomen - it's longer and thinner in the male). It's also possible to appreciate how the dark edges of the forewing are more joined together (more separate with the PBF).

After stopping to photograph this one for a while, I thought how lovely it would be to see one on the bluebells, like I'd had earlier that day with the Chequered Skippers. I hadn't walked much further on, when one was doing exactly that! Excellent! It was a great way to end the day. Despite the cloudy and wet weather, we were thrilled with all that we saw and had a great day out.

After a short walk along Neptune's Staircase, and a brief spell of rain, we headed to Allt Mhuic Butterfly Reserve on the north shore of Loch Arkaig. We didn't see many people along the drive, except for a handful when we passed Eas Chia-Aig Waterfalls. We stopped only briefly so I could take a photo of this beautiful little spot.

At first, I was focused more on the Chequered Skippers at Allt Mhuic, however, there were some other insects of interest. We saw more Small Pearl Bordered Fritillaries and another elusive Argent and Sable moth. There were also some dragonflies on the wing in the area right near the car park, including a Four-spotted Chaser and this rather impressive Golden-ringed Dragonfly (female). I'd not seen one before, so I was really pleased. My interest in these creatures is increasing as I see new species. I can see a future quest might just be trying to see all UK species of dragonfly and damselfly, after I've seen all the UK butterfly species.

Male dragonflies have pincer-like appendages at the base of the abdomen and the Golden-ringed Dragonfly males also have a swollen 'waisted' lower section. The female of the species has a single longer ovipositor as can be seen here.

Later, when we ventured further uphill into the nature reserve I spotted another Golden-ringed Dragonfly just beside the path. I was able to take a photo from a different perspective, looking down on it, whilst it was hanging on to the vegetation. It was another female.

There were Heath Spotted Orchids higher up in the nature reserve and a few patrolling dragonflies, but fewer butterflies. We did see a few different species of moth: a Common Heath, Silver Hook and a very small orange moth, which we later identified as an Amber Hook-wing moth. Bob noticed a stunning Cranefly, but I missed that. There was also a Red-legged Shieldbug final instar nymph - basically, not a mature adult yet and it's legs weren't red!

Back down near the base we spent more time experimenting, waiting for the sunshine to appear. I was particularly struck by the beautiful colour of this fly. It looks like a Green Bottle Fly ( Lucilia species ). There was also a lovely Green Tiger Beetle holding territory on a large rock, moving around periodically, but staying faithful to the site.

On our final full day staying in Fort William, we headed south to Glasdrum Wood National Nature Reserve. Aside from being a hot spot for Chequered Skippers, there were some other lovely insects to photograph, including the White-spotted Sable moth ( Anania Funebris ). We'd already spent quite a bit of time photographing this species in Kent a few weeks prior to the trip. It's another flighty moth that likes to hide underneath leaves and doesn't usually stay out in the open much. I didn't take too many photos, as they weren't as fresh as the ones we'd seen in Kent, but it's a gorgeous little moth and another nationally scarce species.

Sometimes we didn't have to look too far for interesting insects! This Two-banded Longhorn Beetle ( Rhagium bifasciatum ) was found resting in the eyepiece of Bob's binoculars, whilst they were dangling from his neck.

The Chequered Skippers on the whole were few and far between and not very fresh at this site, but the Small Pearl Bordered Fritillaries were both numerous and looking very fresh and vibrant. Once again, I spotted one on a bracken frond looking my way.

Aside from having some lovely open wing shots, I really wanted to get an underside open wing photo. Mostly they were landing on leaves or the bracken. But eventually, after several hours of exploring the site, we finally spotted one on a blade of grass with its wings outstretched. It was crawling up the grass and didn't stay in the same position for long. I didn't have time to get in closer and focus properly, but I still love this photo, as you can fully appreciate the underwing pattern on both wings. Lovely!

Once you've seen one Small Pearl Bordered Fritillary in lots of different positions and on differing vegetation, as a photographer, I naturally wanted to see two together. With the numbers being so good at this site, it didn't take long before that happened. In the first photo you can really notice the difference in colour between the two butterflies. The one on the right is much brighter and fresher looking (female). The one on the left is a male trying to get the attention of the female, however, it didn't work on this occasion.

In the second photo, both look quite bright and fresh, but I think these two are both males nectaring on the same source. Of course, what I really wanted to see were two mating.

...and it happened! Bob spotted this pair low down, but just beside the path. What luck!

As the day progressed, the butterfly gifts just kept arriving. Having photographed lots by this point, I was now starting to experiment some more with videoing. So, when we came across a Chequered Skipper and a Small Pearl Bordered Fritillary nectaring on the same flower, I was thrilled! Even though the Small Pearl Bordered Fritillary is small, you can see just how much smaller the Chequered Skipper is. The latter is quite fresh looking too, and most likely a female, though it's a little hard to tell.

I thought seeing two together was good, but three was even better! Though naturally, it wasn't easy to capture an image with them all posed nicely facing the same way! I wasn't that lucky! I've shared two photos here, so you can see how one of the Small Pearl Bordered Fritillaries flew in to join the other two.

I didn't think the day could get any better, but nature had one more ace up its sleeve. As we were driving back towards Fort William, a Pine Marten crossed the road right in front of us, in broad daylight, carrying something in its mouth. Bob instinctively slowed down. Both of us were agape and stunned into silence as we watched it swiftly leap and bound across the road from the right and then disappear behind someone's house on the left. No doubt, it had some young hiding in the undergrowth nearby that it was going to feed. It was a magical moment etched forever in our minds. What an end to our stay up in Fort William.

Our first week of the holiday had far exceeded our expectations. Admittedly, having seen the weather forecast ahead of the trip, I did set off with low expectations. But, even though it was cooler, windier and wetter than the warmth of the south, we had some amazingly wonderful wildlife sightings. It goes to show you don't need sunny warm weather to see butterflies. It might be a little harder work to find them, but they're far less flighty when the sun isn't out. What I will add, is that our wellies and waterproofs were worn most of the week. They were only a last minute addition to our packing, so that was fortuitous! Whilst the midges were an issue this week, we didn't have any more problems with them for the rest of the holiday - that might be because it was too cold and windy for them! Even our tick count was very low with only one each by the time we left, after our last day at Glasdrum Wood. That was despite being all tucked in mind! But, only two was not bad going for us!

The next post in the series is Black Guillemots in Oban .

In Search Of Chequered Skippers

Thu, 22 Aug 2024 15:26:23 GMT

May/June 2024

Right at the end of May and into June, my partner Bob and I enjoyed a fabulous extended holiday up in Scotland and Cumbria, for three and a half weeks. We had four different bases over the course of this time with different focuses in each area. In Fort William it was butterflies and insects, on the Isle of Mull we had two different bases and we wanted to see a variety of insects, birds and mammals, and then down in Cumbria, on our way home, our focus was once again on butterflies.

You may have already read about my quest to see all the butterfly species in Sussex ( Discovering Butterflies of Sussex ). Now, I'm trying to see all species within the UK, something Bob has already achieved (back in 2015). I've written a few posts about this new butterfly journey so far: A Day Trip to Wiltshire and A Butterfly Quest in Somerset and Dorset . Both outings took place in 2023 and were relatively close to home. This time our journey took us up north, specifically organised around seeing new species for me - ones we don't have in the south of England.

This post is the first of several that I'll write about our amazing trip and is a continuation of my butterfly quest.

We started our adventure in Fort William, Scotland and the primary target was the gorgeous Chequered Skipper ( Carterocephalus palaemon ). It's one of eight species of Skipper we have in the UK and one of the three that are distinctly more patterened and not so golden in colour. After two days of travelling up north, with a stopover in Keswick on the way up, we arrived in Fort William by the mid afternoon. We had plenty of time to do a food shop and settle into our luxury self-catering pod, which would be our home for the next four nights.

It was a fairly warm partly sunny afternoon and it seemed a shame not to make the most of the day. The weather forecast for the days ahead was not ideal for butterfly spotting, with a lot of wet and windy weather looming. So, we decided to have a quick bite to eat and then head off with our cameras to Glen Loy.

It was still light when we arrived at about 6.30pm, but by then it was more cloudy and we were feeling slightly dubious about our chances of spotting any Chequred Skippers. At least this far north, the days were longer, so we still had a few hours to explore. It's just as well we like a challenge!

After parking the car off the road, we headed to the river where we saw a Common Sandpiper fly past. What a lovely welcome! We crossed the bridge and continued walking slowly alongside the river, near the road, looking for any insects. I remained hopeful and positive I would see my first Chequered Skipper that evening and, to be honest, it wasn't long before Bob spotted one resting on a blade of grass. I was thrilled! What a relief!

As the butterfly was roosting, we could only see the underside. But what beautiful wings! Its unique gorgeous white spots meant we had absolute certainty of the species. It made a nice change! The other species of Skippers - the golden orange ones are more difficult to differentiate, well at least for a relative novice like me.

What you can also appreciate here with the Chequered Skipper is the slight hook in the antennae, which is only apparent with Skippers. You can also see that it's a female, with it's more rounded abdomen, which is fractionally shorter than a male.

I was grateful we had a good amount of time to enjoy photographing her. Then, after about 15 minutes, the sun suddenly appeared in between a break in the clouds and she opened her wings almost completely to reveal her striking chequered pattern for which the species is named. The soft early evening sunlight was shining on her beautifully.

For the first time, we were able to appreciate just how fresh she was, with very little damage to the scales on her wings and a near perfect cream fringe. Stunning! What luck to find such a beautiful specimen!

Our luck continued! About 15 minutes after this one had opened her wings, I spotted another one flying nearby. I was even happier to have found one myself. I left Bob to continue photographing the first one, and spent some time with the second one for a while, another female looking really fresh.

When the sun reappeared, I was able to take a lovely backlit photo of the first one. It was the perfect way to end the evening. We'd spent about an hour and a half there and it was time to leave them in peace. What a great first evening! My main target for the week had already been achieved, so I was more relaxed about the rest of the week in Fort William and what we might see. Everything else would be a bonus from then on in.

The following morning, at about 10am, we returned to Glen Loy. The first Chequered Skipper that Bob had found the evening before had disappeared somewhere else. But, I was amazed to see the one I'd spotted was still roosting in the grass. It wasn't that warm and sunny, so she'd not been tempted to take flight yet. Though, she did open her wings on the few brief occasions it looked like it was trying to be brighter.

I love taking these underwing shots, as well as the more usual upperwing ones. It makes for a more interesting perspective for me. She clearly had her eye on me, but didn't fly away, which I was very pleased about. I'm always very conscious of disturbing the butterflies as little as possible, whilst appreciating their beauty.

On this day we found more Chequered Skippers - about 10 in total. I wondered where they'd all been hiding the evening before! It was so lovely to be able to spend lots of time observing and photographing them on different flowers and locations. I was thrilled to capture the photo of a Chequered Skipper perched on an old flower head with a fly on the opposite side to her. A great photo bombing moment!

Even though it was late May, the Bluebells were still looking lovely in this shaded part of the river and not too past their best. I love Common Bluebells and the way the petals curl over at the tops. Apparently Chequered Skippers are known for liking blue and mauve flowers, which was very fortunate for me! I had a field day photographing them, even those ones that weren't quite as fresh looking (males) as the two females from the evening before. The fringes of their wings looked far more worn and ragged, but it was good to be able to appreciate this difference.

I love it when you can see the butterfly proboscis curled like this, just before or after nectaring on a flower. I also love the way their legs are delicately hanging on to the petals. These butterflies are so light, the weight of them doesn't even make the flower move. Noticing all these tiny little details is such a joy for me. Nature is marvellous!

On our second full day in Fort William, we had a short walk along Neptune's Staircase - a series of eight lochs on the Calendonian Canal. We were both amazed to spot a Chequered Skipper along the east side next to the river above the lochs, as we don't think it's a known site for them.

The rain curbed that visit short and we drove north to Allt Mhuic Butterfly Reserve on the north shore of Loch Arkaig. By the time we reached there, the rain had stopped, which was handy as it was time for lunch. We were able to sit at a nearby picnic table to eat before exploring with our cameras.

Despite the changeable conditions, we were blessed with some spells of sunshine on this day soon after lunch, which bode well for seeing more insects. We'd hardly walked far beyond the car park, when we reached an open gravel area and saw lots of Chequered Skippers in a really small area - more than we'd seen on the previous day. I was amazed to find multiple males nectaring on the White Clover. You can clearly see in these photos how the abdomen of the male is narrower and longer than the female, as it extends beyond the edge of their wings.

I love this image of what appears to be a male Chequered Skipper flying, with its wings beautifully wide open. However, it isn't flying at all. You can't see the small yellow Tormentil flower that it's perched on.

We stayed in this low area for quite some time photographing different insects, and not just the Chequered Skippers. But, eventually, we actually ventured into the reserve and walked uphill to see what else we could find. In terms of Chequered Skippers, not many more, but we did spot this lovely fresh female close to the path.

She was quite flighty and didn't stay long in any one position. She flew into some vegetation just off the path, which made it tricky for us to photograph her. I was able to capture a few images before she flew off, aided by the wind, disappearing into the distance.

When we returned to the bottom of the reserve, it was more cloudy. In the distance, we could see some blue sky. Bob was keen to wait a while and see if it would brighten up where we were. While we waited, I was happy spending my time experimenting with my new mirrorless camera, especially the video setting. I really enjoyed watching the Chequered Skippers nectaring some more on the White Clover.

There was also this one female Chequered Skipper perched on the top of a tall stem, which gently moved about in the wind. Thankfully, after quite a bit of waiting, the sun did eventually appear. Bob had been keeping an eye on a roosting male that finally opened up his wings when the sun appeared, and we both enjoyed taking our last photos of the day.

On our last full day in the Fort William area, we travelled south to Glasdrum Wood National Nature Reserve, which is one of the best known sites for seeing the Chequered Skipper. However, being the more southerly site, numbers are higher and the butterflies are in better nick earlier in May. Late May evidently was not a good time to see them. Whilst there were plenty of other insect species for us to enjoy that day, we only saw about five Chequered Skippers. They weren't looking their best. Even the female, shown here, was looking tired, compared the beautiful bright females we'd seen just the previous few days further north. It shows how sites can vary depending on how far south or north they are.

As the first part of our trip came to a close, I was very happy to have had several wonderful encounters with the distinct and lovely Chequered Skipper. It's certainly one of my favourite of the Skipper species. It meant I was one step closer to seeing all the butterfly species in the UK. With more new species to see towards the end of the trip, I was hopeful that I'd have three more new species to add to my seen list: Large Heath, Northern Brown Argus and Mountain Ringlet. Luck certainly seemed to be with us, so I was as optimistic as ever I'd achieve my goal by the end of our holiday.

The next post in the series is Spring in Fort William .

A Butterfly Quest In Somerset And Dorset

Mon, 20 May 2024 09:38:42 GMT

21/22 June 2023

I meant to write about this adventure last year! Hmm! It's almost been a year since I spent these special few days over in Somerset and Dorset. Well, better late than never, right?

In April of last year, I completed my quest to see all the butterfly species in Sussex and what an amazing journey that was ( Discovering Butterflies of Sussex Part 1 ). It was inevitable that following that, the next challenge would begin - seeing all the butterfly species within the UK - even though I really wanted to just enjoy what I'd accomplished at that point. However, realising it would take several years to achieve this goal alongside my existing work commitments, it seemed wise to start straight away. My partner, Bob, who I met whilst looking for Brown Hairstreaks a few years ago, was eager to share the experience with me, even though it was a quest he'd already achieved. It's been lovely sharing the experience with him and of course, I've been benefitting from his wealth of knowledge too.

The logical starting point was seeing species found close to Sussex, which meant a trek to Martin Down first, to see the Marsh Fritillary. What a day we had! ( A Day Trip to Wiltshire ). Next up was supposed to be the Heath Fritillary in Kent. But, things didn’t fall into place for that, so we'll have to wait another year for that adventure. However, we did manage two lovely days away in Somerset for the Large Blue and Dorset for the Lulworth Skipper. It also just happened to be our first romantic trip away!

We broke up our journey to Somerset with a stop at Blandford Forum for a few hours. It was very hot and sunny! There was no sign of any otters, but we enjoyed seeing a Kingfisher fly-by a few times and watching the insects. A Beautiful China-mark moth was seen on the reeds at the edge of the river. Banded Demoiselle's were also seen flying close above the water near the weir. I always enjoy the challenge of trying to photograph moving insects. I was quite pleased with one photo of a male, especially as I wasn't that close to it.

Later, we stopped for a while beside a small pond. I enjoyed watching some female Azure Damselflies laying their eggs in the water. It looks so odd seeing the male still attached to the female - he has claspers at the base of his abdomen, which fix on to the front portion of the female's thorax. I imagine it's to make sure some other male doesn't come along and attempt to mate with the female. There was also a Hairy Dragonfly patrolling the pond. It kept coming tantalisingly close to us, but it moved too quickly for me to capture a photo. It was never still long enough for me to focus on. Oh well! You can't win them all!

From there we drove on to Somerset for the Large Blue. After dropping our things off at the pub where we were staying, we ventured on to the National Nature Reserve where this species (and others) can be found. It was quite late in their flying season, so we knew they wouldn't be very fresh, but this didn't bother me. For a first time visit, I was happy with whatever I could find. Bob had only seen them twice before himself, so he was just as keen as me to see this lovely blue species again.

The amazing thing is, the Large Blue went extinct in Britain in 1979. We're only able to see them now as a result of a successful reintroduction programme following years of research, monitoring and planning, and recreating suitable conditions on former sites. This species has a remarkable relationship with a very specific ant species, Myrmica sabuleti , so it's success only comes after making sure the ants are also found in high enough densities. You can read more about it from one of the scientists involved in the work, in The Butterflies of Britain and Ireland by Jeremy Thomas and Richard Lewington.

We arrived late in the afternoon and it was still very hot. Since it was mid-week, it was fairly quiet – just how we like it. After walking uphill, following a footpath alongside a field margin, we continued along the path within the reserve with a tall hedgerow on our right. The shade it provided from the heat of the sun was a welcome relief. Along here, I was delighted to see my first Ringlet of the year. It's a species I’m particularly fond of with it's chocolate brown wings and elegant rings.

Just as we neared the end of the path, where it opens out onto the hillside at the top of the slope, Bob said my challenge is to find a Large Blue. I was already wondering to myself how long it would take before I saw one. Within less than a minute, a tantalising flap of blue wings flitted past me. That was easy! As its name suggests, it was noticeably larger than our other blue species in the UK. Unfortunately, it disappeared out of sight pretty quickly. But, it made me smile. The pressure was off. Now to find more and get photographic evidence!

Within 10 minutes I'd seen a few more, including this male persuing a female. Both were looking far from their best! Although they're not fresh, it's good to notice the differences in colour and black forewing spots.

I carefully zigzagged my way down the slope and within 20 minutes of our arrival, I saw a female egg laying on the Wild Thyme. I was thrilled, though it wasn't so easy to photograph her. She was gone in a flash. But, I peered into the flowerhead and could see the egg well tucked away (can you spot it in the photo?). Thankfully, it wasn't the only female I saw egg laying. In the photo below you can see the female curling her abdomen to deposit an egg. Interestingly, it doesn't look like Wild Thyme though!

The best moment of the afternoon came soon after, when a female landed on a Thistle and stayed there for almost 10 minutes, posing with her wings shut. Both of us were able to take several photos from both sides. I was so excited and very grateful she didn't fly off too quickly. She even was kind enough to open up her wings and allow me to appreciate the thicker dark wing margin and the heavier black spots that the females possess. She was a beauty.

We spent a total of three hours meandering across the reserve, exploring as much as we could. At times we walked together, and sometimes we split up, finding our own way across the escarpment. We remained in close proximity to each other, in case either of us had a particularly good find. It was lovely having the quiet time to just enjoy searching and photographing whatever we were drawn to. Whilst our eyes were mostly focused lower to the ground, Bob spotted a couple of Hobbies fly overhead, which was fabulous. I'd probably only seen this striking bird of prey twice before, so I was thrilled.

Closer to the ground, other butterfly species we saw that day were Marbled White, Small Skipper and a lovely Small Tortoiseshell (photo) with its wings wide open. The orange of its wings were hard to miss. We both spotted several moths too, mostly the tiny Pyrausta purpuralis and a few Crescent Plume moths (photo). Their long thin wings look so different to moths I've seen before. I found them quite intriguing and unusual. Moth species are so varied.

We also saw a Ruddy Darter dragonfly and a White-legged damselfly (photo). I love the way it's peering up at me.

As the afternoon gave way to the evening we were hoping to find some roosting Large Blues. Unfortunately, we weren't successful, however, I did enjoy spending a little time with this one in the lovely soft light. We were able to leave happy with what we'd seen, knowing we'd be back in the morning for more fun on the hillside.

Hot and tired, we retreated to the pub where we were staying. All afternoon and evening I had my trousers tucked in to my socks to make sure no ticks found their way to my skin. Thankfully, I was tick-free! We enjoyed a delicious evening meal indoors, then afterwards, we sat outside as it was still warm enough. I love warm summer evenings, when we get them. When it cooled down sufficiently to tempt us back indoors, we rounded off the evening listening to a local folk group. The room was very cosy with its low ceiling and seating packed close to the musicians. There weren't more than 25 people in the room, and about 10 of those were the players.

The following morning, we wanted to be there before the sun was shining on the slope, in the hope of finding some roosting butterflies. But sadly, we didn’t time it quite right. The early cloud cover cleared quicker than expected and the butterflies were already on the wing. Once again, we virtually had the place to ourselves. A few other people turned up, but they either didn’t stay long, or moved out of sight.

At first, the Large Blues were being elusive, but we were kept busy and entertained by the other insects. We saw an Acronicta rumicis moth caterpillar munching on a leaf (photo). Spotting caterpillars is new for me, and I find it quite exciting when I do. Thankfully, I'm with someone who knows a lot about them, so I'm learning all the time.

Soon after, we were distracted by a pair of mating Marbled Whites. We were photographing them for quite some time, trying to get the best angle. They were on the side of a small mound of grass, but it was so close to some scrub, there wasn't much room to lay down low to photograph them. I love the wing patterning of this butterfly. The underside is just as gorgeous as the upperwing. Seeing them together makes it really easy to see the subtle differences in their colour between the sexes. The female is on the left, the slightly creamier of the two.

From there, we gradually worked our way along to the furthest part of the reserve and then started to head back. That was when we started spotting a handful of male Large Blues flying close to the ground at various points. Loving a challenge, once again I wanted to see if I could get some half decent flying shots. I spent quite a bit of time doing this and took A LOT of photos - most of which were deleted! But, I was quite pleased with this one, despite it being a very tatty one.

Towards the end of the morning we were ready to move on to Lulworth Cove. Just as we were about to walk along the path at the top of the hill to leave the reserve, Bob spotted this cricket on the fence - a type of Conehead Cricket with an amazingly long antennae!

Lulworth Cove was familiar to me, having visited a few times before, but never to look for butterflies. It was surprisingly busy considering it was mid-week and not in the school holidays, but of course, it is a popular tourist spot. Bob pointed to Bindon Hill that dominated the northern side of the cove, thinking that it would be a good place to find Lulworth Skippers. He was sure there’d been some sightings there in the past. It was a lot steeper and higher than the nature reserve in Dorset we’d just come from and I didn’t relish the prospect of walking up there. Thankfully, it was time for lunch, so instead, we headed to Stair Hole, just west of the cove and not far from the car park.

It didn’t take long, walking along the paths there, before we spotted some Skippers flying. The question was, would they sit still long enough for us to identify if they were the Lulworth or Small Skipper? Yay! Some did and we had success straight away. Though there were quite a few Small Skippers too, which really confused me to start with. It didn't help when these small butterflies landed in amongst the vegetation, as I couldn't see them clearly, plus we were on a steep incline at times, so that was tricky to navigate too.

The Lulworth Skippers are a darker orange than the Small Skippers and also smaller than them too, which is a little confusing considering their name. The Lulworth Skipper's flight was quite distinctive, their wings were fluttering fast and they were staying low in amongst the tall grass.

I forgot about lunch for a while. I was thrilled we were seeing the Lulworth Skippers so early on in our visit. More to the point, I was glad we didn't need to walk up that massive hill! There were a good number of them in a relatively small area, so we had plenty of opportunities to photograph them. Bob was taking several photos too as he’d only seen them once before. We were both in our element. At one point we saw two together – a male was trying to impress a female. I was so eager to capture the action, even though it was tricky. The female is on the left in both photos - notice the light orange 'sun-ray'.

Eventually, we stopped for a bite to eat. We found a lovely quiet spot away from other people. We sat on a slope, nestled behind a rocky ledge, that provided shelter from the sun and the wind. It was very picturesque. We even enjoyed seeing Marbled Whites and Lulworth Skippers flying past us.

We were a bit undecided where we’d explore after lunch and thought about heading along the coastal path westwards towards Durdle Door. We started on it, but we didn’t get very far. We were side tracked walking on the first slope towards Hanbury Tout, spotting some tall grasses away from the path. It looked like a good spot to see more of our target species and we weren’t wrong. It was sheltered from the wind and we saw masses of Lulworth Skippers here. They looked fresher too on the whole. The light was also lovely. The sun was gradually sinking beyond the hill and the butterflies would turn their wings to face the sun. As I bent down to take photos, I had to make sure I didn't cast a shadow over them.

Passers-by must have thought we were odd, wondering what on earth we were photographing in the grass. But, we were happy. We must have spent well over an hour ambling along, photographing not only the butterflies but a few other things too, like this Five Spot Burnet Moth. I don't think I've seen one before. In Sussex it's usually the Six Spot Burnet Moths we see, but of course, I don't check every one I see! I think it's a more common moth species than we realise.

Bob also told me about the Great Green Bush Cricket, which we might see. To my surprise, we actually did spot one. Well, Bob did and pointed it out to me. It was really large and impressive. It was most obliging as I photographed it.

Bob also told me about the Great Green Bush Cricket, which we might see. To my surprise, we actually did spot one. Well, Bob did and pointed it out to me. It was really large and impressive. It was most obliging as I photographed it.

At one point, I found a gorgeous fresh male and sat down in the grass to take some photos. When I was finished, Bob followed suit. It was very accommodating that it didn't fly off, so we both had ample opportunity to photograph it. When I stood up, I noticed lots of black specks on the bottom of my trousers. They were miniscule - too small to be ticks, I thought. Whatever they were, they weren't staying! I brushed them off!

Following our earlier efforts, which hadn't gleaned such great results, it was wonderful to photograph the butterflies up close and more easily. I was finding lots of females and really able to appreciate the 'sun-ray' on their wings. This particular female was fabulous to photograph.

I enjoyed experimenting, photographing her from different angles. The 'sun-ray' was even more obvious when she was backlit. I also love the photo of her as she is looking up the blade of grass towards me.

It was amazing to see so many roosting together. In one tiny area, I counted 10. There were several communal spots like it.

It was a very successful afternoon. In fact, it had been a fabulous short break having success seeing both species. Before heading home we celebrated with a lovely ice cream.

There was only one downside to our wonderful two day adventure – the ticks! Despite being careful, tucking clothing in, we weren't careful enough. Walking through the tall grass we were like magnets to them. We thought we'd been thorough in brushing them off. We even checked each other out when we were back at the car and in the evening. It wasn't until the next morning when I woke up and saw a reddish area on my stomach, around a little black speck, that I realised I hadn't escaped them after all. Argh! Immediately we undertook a further tick inspection – only this time wearing our glasses!!! We both had quite a few, though I won the competition of who had the most, by 11-5. Needless to say, we’ve become experts at removing them. The really tiny ones weren't easy to remove, but we successfully got rid of them all. Thankfully, none of them have proven to be of concern (Lyme Disease). I’ll be even more careful next time. Maybe I should invest in a skin tight cat suit!

Thankfully, the ticks didn't ruin our otherwise fabulous butterfly foray!

Autumn Tour Of Scotland - Part 2

Sun, 14 Jan 2024 22:02:04 GMT

During the first half of our autumn holiday up in Scotland, we'd filled our boots with sightings of deer. Now our focus switched primarily to Mountain Hares and Ptarmigan. Since both species live at high altitudes, it meant a lot of walking uphill! It would be hard work! But, I felt confident I'd be able to manage it, so long as I simply took it slow and steady with frequent stops. At least we were able to intersperse these challenging days with more relaxing ones.

On our first day based in Boat of Garten, we decided to venture up the Cairn Gorm Mountain. The mountain railway was closed, as were the ski lifts, so there was no easy access to higher ground. But, since the car park was located at 635m, we were able to start our walk from a reasonably high point. I was thrilled the top of the mountains were covered in snow. It looked so beautiful, though of course, this meant we'd be walking through the white stuff and would undoubtedly get quite wet. We chose to follow the steep Windy Ridge path up to the Ptarmigan restaurant - the highest in the UK. It was given its name due to the high number of this species on the mountain, which was perhaps a good sign. So, I set off with optimism and very happy that it was a glorious sunny start to the day.

The great thing about snow, is it's easier to see evidence of wildlife. Quite early on, we spotted gamebird tracks and scat, though we weren't experienced enough to tell if they were from Red Grouse or Ptarmigan. Then as we trudged slowly further up the mountain we noticed a lot of hare tracks and occasionally little round droppings. It was encouraging they were present, but the hares were as elusive as ever. Perhaps it wasn't so surprising since quite a few people walk these trails and though it wasn't busy, we weren't alone.

Up the mountains, the weather can be so changeable. Even though we started and ended the walk with blue skies, in the middle of the day a dark cloud moved in very quickly bringing with it more snow. Thankfully, we were near the restaurant by this time, just shy of the summit. Although it wasn't open, we could take shelter outside from the wind and snow, whilst eating our lunch. It was a little disheartening we hadn't seen either animals yet, but once the snow passed through we set off again.

We didn't follow the other hill walkers up to the summit. Instead, we followed a few tracks in a slightly different direction, heading up, but skirting the peak, so we could look for the Ptarmigan amongst the snow covered scree. We didn't have success there either. But, the view across the national park looking eastwards was stunning and made the climb worth the effort.

As we began our descent, a skier passed us, snaking their way down the slope, having trekked all the way up. I was a little envious of the ease and speed with which they were able to descend. However, the beauty in going slow is that you don't miss seeing things, like a Mountain Hare being mobbed by two Ravens. It was our first sighting. The hare was still brown, having not yet moulted into the winter white pelage. It stood out against the snow as it bounded across the smooth white surface, catching the attention of the Ravens. Whenever they flew too close to it, the hare started leaping into the air, lashing out with its paws, running around haphazardly, trying to avoid them. Gradually, it managed to edge closer to some rocks and eventually found refuge amongst them. The birds gave up and flew off. It was amazing to witness. I didn't take any photos, but Bob was able to, as he was more ready than me and had a longer lens.

It was lovely walking downhill in the late afternoon, when most people had already left the mountain. The path was quiet and the light was lovely. We only ever saw one Red Grouse flying away from us, disturbed by our presence, but that was it for gamebirds unfortunately, on this occasion.

The highlight of the day, came in that last hour of our walk. Bob and I simultaneously spotted the movement of a Wood Mouse scurrying across the snow, just to the left of the path. It was the last thing I expected to see on the mountain in the snow. This delightful little bundle of fur was absolutely gorgeous, eating the grass that was poking through the snow. We stopped to photograph it for a good 15mins. At one point it started running towards me. I couldn't believe how close it was - no more than 2m away, if that! It was a truly magical moment. If we hadn't have been so exhausted, we might have stayed longer.

It was lovely walking downhill in the late afternoon, when most people had already left the mountain. The path was quiet and the light was lovely. Unfortunately, we only saw one gamebird that day, a Red Grouse flying away from us. The highlight of the day came in that last hour of our walk. Bob and I simultaneously spotted the movement of a Wood Mouse scurrying across the snow, just to the left of the path. It was the last thing I expected to see on the mountain in the snow. This delightful little bundle of fur was absolutely gorgeous, eating the grass that was poking through the snow. We stopped to photograph it for a good 15mins. At one point it started running towards me. I couldn't believe how close it was - no more than 2m away!

Our hard slog up the mountain was followed by a day of sitting in a hide. Quite a contrast. Despite wearing lots of layers, it was a lot colder for the hands and feet, sitting fairly motionless for so long. There was still a frost on the ground, which was quite atmospheric for the photography. We were lucky enough to have a lovely sunny day with little wind. You never know what weather you'll have when you book a hide. Though, in a way, it was a shame we weren't out on the mountain in such good weather.

Photographing the Red Squirrels from the private hide was a familiar set up for me, having visited this place before on my previous trips to Scotland. But for Bob, this was a fabulous new experience. He'd only had one brief fleeting glimpse of a Red Squirrel, many years ago. I was so pleased a few showed up to eat the hazelnuts that had been put out for them. Occasionally, they would run off with one in their mouth, presumably to hide it away somewhere nearby for later. There was usually only one squirrel at a time, but when there were two, a chase quickly ensued. They're lightening fast! I just took a burst of shots, hoping that one frame would be reasonably in focus! These gorgeous native squirrels are always such a delight to watch.

When the squirrels were absent, our winged friends would make an appearance and entertain us. They'd search for the peanuts that had been scattered around for them. It was fabulous to see a Great Spotted Woodpecker a few times, but my favourites were the Coal Tits. Periodically, a handful of them would descend and it was magical to watch. They're so light, that even when they landed on the heather, the stem would hardly bow under their weight. I enjoy watching them come and go so much, I decided to take a few videos using my phone. Using the slow motion setting was such a wonderful way to appreciate their flying skills.

A few times, a Coal Tit surprised me by landing on the end of my big camera lens. As they appeared to be quite bold, Bob decided to put some peanuts in his hand and see if any would feed from it. One or two brave ones did, but one flew in close, considered it for a while, then thought better of it and flew off without taking a peanut.

Since we were sitting in the hide most of the day, afterwards we decided on a lovely late afternoon stroll from Loch Garten to Loch Mallachie to give our legs a stretch. The stillness of the water was so calming and the reflections of the trees were wonderful. For a short while, we sat on a large rock with a hot drink, relaxing and taking in the beauty all around us.

It was good to be out in the open and walking again the following day. We had another attempt at spotting Ptarmigan, this time over at Carn Ban Mor. We started our ascent walking through the forest. Coming out the other side, just as the trees were beginning to thin out, we spotted our only Crested Tit of the holiday. It wasn't especially close, nor did it linger, but nonetheless, it was lovely to see.

On our route up the mountain we saw a few Red Grouse flying away. They're quite skittish and difficult to approach, let alone see, as they blend into the vegetation. But one time, we saw where a few landed. So, carefully and quietly we tried to near them. We had a nice view, but they were still some distance from us, and just like all the times before, they flew off when they saw us.

We weren't having much luck with the wildlife. The dull cloudy weather meant we also couldn't appreciate the scenery at its best. However, after a brief stop for a bite to eat, sheltering in a rocky nook, I did notice some rather intriguing looking cup lichen with red tops. Unsure what they were, I simply took some photos at the time. From looking into it later, it seems as though there are a few species of Cladonia that have red caps. However, using ObsIdentify, I discovered these were called Madame's Cup Lichen ( Cladonia coccifera ).

The weather wasn't quite in our favour on this day, as it was very windy and the visibility was poor higher up. The first fall of snow was starting to melt away near the summit. It was quite a hard slog uphill and still no sightings of Ptarmigan. We were quite relieved when we made it to the top, stopping by the cairn to take some photos. Only, we soon discovered we weren't at the summit after all. Our celebrations had been premature. Using the OS map on my phone, we blindly headed off in the right direction, unable to see the footpath or the summit ahead. The mist obscured our view until we were much closer.

We rested for a bit and had some refreshments. By this point, we felt too tired to wander around the open expanse of the mountain top searching for Ptarmigan, when we could barely see 20m ahead of us. We then decided to make our way back down again. Suddenly, there was a break in the clouds and a brief improvement in visibility. We used our bins to scour the area and see if there were any signs of Ptarmigan, but there were none.

We continued on a little further, then a ping was heard from Bob's phone. We stopped so he could read the message - it was his son Matt, providing a bit more useful information on where we potentially might see the gamebirds. We then realised, right where we had stopped, there were grouse footprints in the snow. At this altitude they were almost certainly Ptarmigan. It gave us hope. So, rather than follow the path downhill, we slowly zigzagged our way across and down, searching all the patches of scree, hoping to have success. But sadly, we had no luck. Disheartened, we followed the path the remainder of the way back down.

Just as we finished the descent and were about to walk along the road back to the car park, we witnessed a lovely sunset and briefly stopped to enjoy it. However, we were both totally exhausted and just wanted to get back to the car. Even the last stretch along the flat seemed too much. My legs felt heavy. Maybe it was my disappointment weighing me down. Our only chance of seeing the Ptarmigan now rested on the last few days of our trip, when we would be heading to Glenshee. Talk about leaving it to the last minute! I just hoped we'd be luckier then.

In the middle of the week, the weather wasn't so good, so it was the perfect opportunity for us to have a more restful day. We enjoyed less strenuous walks around Aviemore (for retail therapy) and Boat of Garten (for nature therapy). We then felt more refreshed for our final two days, which we spent exploring Findhorn Valley.

The weather was not brilliant on either day, but maneagable, with strong winds and occasional breaks in the cloud to reveal brief glimpses of blue sky above. On both days, we had a really heavy downpour, but thankfully they were just as we reached the car at the end of each day. We timed that well!

When we arrived on the first morning, we saw a Dipper and Goosander on the river near the car park, and during our walks we spotted several Fieldfare and birds of prey, including Buzzards, a Merlin, Kestrel and Sparrowhawk. However, the Mountain Hares were our main focus. We knew it wouldn't be easy to spot them, since we'd heard the area was no longer considered reliable. The last time I was there, the year before, I'd scoured the mountains with my guide and I didn't see one hare the whole day.

Once more, we set off uphill, following the stony track. Our eyes were constantly perusing the heather on the hillsides looking out for a pair of black-tipped brown ears poking up. We'd be lucky if we saw any more than that initially. Since, there was no snow in sight, I wasn't even sure I'd notice their brown pelage amidst the vegetation. They're great at hiding in plain sight, which of course is crucial for survival against predators. Spotting a hare would be all about luck and timing.

We had only walked about a third of the way up the mountain track, when we paused for a drink. Bob was looking out across the valley towards the other side, whereas I was looking up the hillside behind us, using my bins. That was when I saw it. A beautiful hare with tiny flecks of white at the ends of its otherwise brown hair. Of course, the hare had already seen us coming, but it sat still in its form and didn't move. I was overjoyed at having seen it and also relieved. Unfortunately, we didn't successfully move into a better position to photograph the hare, without spooking it. It ran downhill a short distance, then paused and sat up, probably checking to see if it was being followed, and then it ran away. I felt badly for disturbing it and was annoyed with myself for making a few rookie errors.

Much later in the day, we saw another hare. But sadly, it heard us coming before we even saw it and ran away. By comparing photos later, I was able to determine it was a different hare as it was whiter around the rump than the first one.

Although we only saw the two hares, we did have better success with the Red Grouse. Walking higher, we saw over a dozen of them. Many were seen slowly working their way through the grasses, eating. Determined to learn from my earlier errors, we were able to enjoy some lovely views. We lay low ahead of a family of them, patiently waiting until they ambled closer towards us. Sometimes they disappeared from view, ducking down in the grass or because of slight mounds in the ground. Then, all of a sudden, a head would pop up, keeping a lookout. Eventually, our presence was spotted and they flew off.

On the second day in Findhorn, we could hear the bellows of Red Deer stags echo through the valley. It was quite eerie. Only as we walked higher up the mountain did we finally see the massive herd of deer. Once again, they heard and saw us coming. As I looked through my bins across to the other mountain where they were, I saw all their faces looking at us. Even though we were far away, they were nervous of humans - understandably so - and they ran the other way on mass and eventually down the mountain, across the river and up the far side. It was fabulous to witness, even if far away and using bins.

On our walk, I was lucky enough to find a lone antler lying on the ground. Perhaps it had come off in a battle between two stags. It looked freshly broken off. I wanted to keep it, not only as a momento of the amazing holiday enjoying the wildlife of Scotland, but also as a reminder of the elegance and beauty of such an impressive mammal.

We didn't have much luck seeing Mountain Hares on this second day. We walked all the way up to where we'd seen the Red Grouse the day before and had no sightings of hares at all. We started our descent feeling a bit dejected. I was sure we would've seen at least one. And then we did. This time, it was Bob who spotted it, which I'm sure he was pleased about. We'd both already looked up the steep slope several times before. All it took was for those ears to prick up and for him to look at just the right time. On this occasion, we were able to very carefully, quietly and slowly edge closer to it, pausing often and really taking our time. We remained in its view the whole time. It stayed settled, though it kept one ear alert. It looked slightly whiter than the hare we'd seen the day before. It was such a privilege and joy to move a little closer and not disturb it. It felt very satisfying. Eventually, having taking quite a few photos, we left it in peace and edged away.

Even though we were far away, they were nervous of humans - understandably so - and they ran the other way on mass and eventually down the mountain, across the river and up the far side. It was fabulous to witness, even if far away and using bins.

This time, it was Bob who spotted it, which I'm sure he was pleased about. We'd both already looked up the steep slope several times before. All it took was for those ears to prick up and for him to look at just the right time. On this occasion, we were able to very carefully, quietly and slowly edge closer to it, pausing often and really taking our time. We remained in its view the whole time. It stayed settled, though it kept one ear alert. It looked slightly whiter than the hare we'd seen the day before. It was such a priviege and joy to move a little closer and not disturb it. It felt very satisfying. Eventually, having taking quite a few photos, we left it in peace and edged away.

We left Boat of the Garten the following day, still filled with the hope of seeing a Ptarmigan, which had eluded us so far throughout our holiday. Plus, we really wanted to have some better sightings of the Mountain Hares. Findhorn had merely whet our appetite. Glenshee was our final stop, for just two nights, and our last chance to see both species before heading home again. The only problem was, the wet weather finally caught up with us and strong winds prevailed. As we sat in the café at the foot of the mountain, watching the walkers descending in the near horizontal rain, we mulled over whether we would attempt the ascent ourselves. Occasionally, the rain didn't seem so heavy. Maybe it would be alright. Our desire to the see the wildlife was strong, especially knowing we only had one day left. After some lunch, we decided we'd go for it. We even put on our waterproofs and boots. We decided to take as little as possible up and put all the essentials into just one rucksack. But then, the wind picked up and the rain seemed even heavier. We soon changed our mind and we thought better of it. Instead, we made our way back to Dalmunzie Castle, where we were staying, and enjoyed a shorter walk in the grounds, in the rain.

The following morning, the weather wasn't much improved. It was perhaps ever so slightly less windy and wet, but it was difficult to tell. It still wasn't very inviting. Since it was our last day and our window of opportunity was ever decreasing, we decided we should at least make an attempt up the mountain. If it became too much, we could always change our mind and come back down again. At least we would know we'd tried our best! I knew how much Bob wanted to see a Ptarmigan and I didn't want us to end our holiday without a single sighting. So we set off, full of hope and eagerness to see both species despite the bad conditions.

Boy! Was it a tough walk! Perhaps it was partly because my legs were tired from all the walking we'd done on the holiday so far. Following the path more or less directly uphill, it was very steep and hard work. Bob made it look quite easy, powering ahead, but then again, he lives close to the South Downs and is used to hill walking. I'm pretty fit, but not so much for hill walking. Taking small steps, I abided the slow and steady approach. In places, the water was trickling down the path and unsurprisingly, higher up it was very muddy. To avoid it, we tramped over the boggy grass, which felt spongy underfoot. To our left, the chairs on the ski lift were bouncing and swinging. Everything was shut, ahead of the ski season. There weren't any patches of snow in sight. In better conditions, I thought how nice it would be to take the lift up rather than walk! The wind and rain was bashing into us from behind, so it didn't seem too horrendous as we gradually worked our way up the mountain. Not another soul was in sight. We had the mountain to ourselves, which was fabulous, though maybe that was also a sign of our utter madness being up there in such conditions. However, I didn't feel like it was unsafe, just unpleasant.

It was extremely windy at the top of the mountain and misty. We couldn't see the other mountains beyond. But, once we walked a fraction lower on the lee side, out of the wind, it was definitely better. In fact, as the day progressed there were some breaks in the rain and even the sun made a very brief appearance. It wasn't long after we were over the other side of the mountain that we started having viewings of the Mountain Hares, whilst we were looking for the Ptarmigan. There were so many. At first, as usual, they were all running away, having heard us before we saw them. But there were some we were able to edge a little closer to and photograph. It was lovely seeing them starting to moult and in such good numbers.

We continued working our way around the mountain, near the top, checking all the rocky areas and keeping our eyes wide open for Ptarmigan. We saw scat near the peak, so we knew there were some around, but as ever, they were being elusive. This was becoming the story of our holiday. After several hours of fruitless searching and battling the elements, I started to tire. I was running out of steam. We split up. Bob continued searching in the same area, skirting the peak, but I started to walk closer towards our route back down to the car park in the light rain. I was carefully walking across the scree when I suddenly noticed three Ptarmigan appear from their hiding place in the rocks. I couldn't believe it. Success at last! Though it was fleeting.

They didn't linger. I only managed to take two frames before they took flight and disappeared around the other side of the mountain, into the wind and rain. But, at least I'd seen them. However, I was disappointed Bob had missed them. I turned around and saw him approaching - he'd seen them fly away. But his view wasn't very satisfactory. Despite this, neither of us felt inspired to try and locate them again. Instead, we decided to leave the peak and work our way back.

But, before our descent on the other side of the mountain, I did chance upon this lovely wet looking hare. The mist did a good job of hiding us both from each other. It was probably as surprised as me, when we saw each other. I couldn't believe how close it was. It scarpered off fairly quickly though.

They didn't linger. I only managed to take two frames before they took flight and disappeared around the other side of the mountain, into the wind and rain. But, at least I'd seen them. However, I was disappointed Bob had missed them. I turned around and saw him approaching - he'd seen them fly away. But his view wasn't very satisfactory. Despite this, neither of us felted inspired to try and locate them again. Instead, we decided to leave the peak and work our way back.

The descent wasn't too challenging, with the spongy grass definitely making it easier on the knees, but it felt long. I just wanted to be indoors in the warmth, sipping hot chocolate. Eventually, we made it into the café at the base, tired and very wet. We peeled off our sodden outer layers and the damp second layers. Thankfully, everything else was dry under that. We'd have a tough job though, drying everything out before heading home the next morning.

That evening we checked the weather forecast for the next day. It was going to be sunny, but still quite windy! How could we leave when we'd finally have the kind of weather we'd hoped for? We had to go back up the mountain for one last chance to see the Ptarmigan, especially since we knew there were definitely a few up there. Bob was up for it as much as me. It was too good an opportunity to pass up. I worked out we could still reach our hotel the following evening in time for dinner, if we left early in the afternoon instead. So, we decided to go for it.

'Here we go again!' I thought to myself, the following morning as we began the same ascent as the day before, retracing our steps. At least the sunshine made it seem much easier. I was full of hope and optimism. Once again, at the top, it was the hares we saw first and the Ptarmigan were nowhere in sight. We did one complete circuit around the mountain with no joy. I could tell by the look on Bob's face that he was starting to feel dejected. But, I remained positive. 'We'll see them! There's still time!'

We trudged our way back up and over, starting a second circuit. Suddenly, I heard Bob calling out my name. I turned to look at him and my eyes followed where he was pointing to. On the other side of some large rocks, fairly close to us, he'd spotted three Ptarmigan. They looked like the same three birds from the day before. Yay! Finally!

What followed was an amazing experience! We must have stayed with them for just under an hour, photographing them and observing their behaviour. It was fabulous! After taking our first few initial photos, they flew off, but not too far away. We approached them again, quietly and carefully, and had another period of staying close. This happened one more time. That was when we were lucky enough to have a good amount of time in their presence. They knew we were there, but didn't feel threatened. After resting for a bit, they started to walk through the heather and forage. The female was so well camouflaged against the rocks, I didnt notice her at first. When they flew off a fourth time we left them alone. We'd had our fill and it was about time we made our way back to the car, but not before one last lovely hare sighting, fairly close, in some nice light.

This happened one more time. That was when we were lucky enough to have a good amount of time in their presence. They knew we were there, but didn't feel threatened. After resting for a bit, they started to walk through the heather and forage. The female was so well camouflaged against the rocks, I didnt notice her at first. When they flew off a fourth time we left them alone. We'd had our fill and it was about time we made our way back to the car, but not before one last lovely hare sighting, fairly close, in some nice light.

That last excursion up Glenshee was the perfect ending to our holiday. We'd done a lot of mountain walking over the course of the two weeks, seeing quite a bit of wildlife. We'd stayed in some great locations, enjoyed some delicious meals and of course, having the company through it all was the icing on the cake for me. I'm so grateful I've found someone who enjoys doing the same kinds of things as I do! We're both looking forward to more wildlife outings together in 2024. We're even heading back to Scotland and the Isle of Mull in the spring, so there's lots to look forward to.

Bob has shared his photos from the trip and written his own blog (6 separate posts), which you can see/read by clicking on this link: Bob's Blog .

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Autumn Tour Of Scotland - Part 1

Fri, 29 Dec 2023 09:20:53 GMT

I love visiting Scotland, seeking out new places as well as returning to favoured locations. Even though I've been several times over the last few years, I've never been up there during the autumn, around the time of the deer rut. I was thrilled to finally have the opportunity this year, even though I knew the chances of actually seeing any activity were extremely slim. As much as I wanted to see the Red Deer up in the Highlands, there were actually two other species that were higher on my 'Want To See' list for the trip - Mountain Hares and Ptarmigan. I've been lucky enough to see them before, but was eager for more wonderful experiences. I knew they'd still be just as potentially challenging to locate and photograph, with declining numbers even in favoured locations. It would certainly make the trip more of an adventure. The fact I wasn't going alone this time, but instead sharing the experience with Bob - on our first holiday together - made it even more special. I really hoped we would get lucky with our target species, especially as Bob had only seen one Mountain Hare before and never laid eyes on a Ptarmigan.

On the drive northbound - as well as southbound, at the end of the holiday - we stayed overnight in Ormskirk, so we could visit WWT Martin Mere. It was where I'd had the fabulous Stoat Encounter during the summer. We only had an hour before closing to visit the reserve at the end of our long drive north, so not much time! But, it was fabulous to see a male Marsh Harrier flying close to the hide in the evening light, just above the reeds. I also had one fleeting glimpse of a Barn Owl flying across the same field on the far side, but trees soon obscured my view.

Thankfully, we could enjoy a few more hours walking around the site on our way south. The reedbed walk didn't garner any sightings of a Bearded Tit unfortunately, a species that has so far eluded me, but I did enjoy seeing a large number of Snipe flying overhead. Shortly after, about half a dozen of them were spotted skirting the edge of the wetlands. They were tricky to photograph as they weren't that close and other ducks and vegetation sometimes got in the way! But, I enjoyed watching them all the same as it's a species I've not seen often.

On the drive northbound as well as southbound (at the end of the holiday), we stayed overnight in Ormskirk so we could visit WWT Martin Mere. It was where I'd had the fabulous Stoat Encounter during the summer. We only had an hour before closing to visit the reserve at the end of our long drive north, so not much time! But, it was fabulous to see a male Marsh Harrier flying close to the hide in the evening light, just above the reeds. I also had one fleeting glimpse of a Barn Owl flying across the same field on the far side, but trees soon obscured my view.

Thankfully, we could enjoy a few more hours walking around the site on our way south. The reedbed walk didn't garner any sightings of a Bearded Tit, a species that has so far eluded me, but I did enjoy seeing a large number of Snipe flying overhead. Shortly after, about half a dozen of them were spotted skirting the edge of the wetlands. They were tricky to photograph as they weren't that close and other ducks and vegetation sometimes got in the way! But, I enjoyed watching them all the same as it's a species I've not seen often.

We had four bases during our mini tour of Scotland. The first was in the Loch Lomond and Trossachs area. We stayed at a lovely B&B on the west side of Loch Arklet on a road that ended at Inversnaid Falls nearby. We had a comfortable en-suite room, which overlooked the bird feeders in the garden. Our hosts were most welcoming and friendly and we enjoyed a lovely cooked breakfast each morning. It was in a beautiful, out of the way spot where we could go walking right from our door. That was part of its appeal. However, the drive back to Aberfoyle each evening for dinner was a bit tedious along the undulating, winding narrow road. It made me nauseous at times. Even though it had lots of passing places, we just hoped we wouldn't meet many vehicles coming the other way, especially the larger food delivery trucks. However, when we discovered The Faerie Tree Inn, we were happy to make the journey. With great quality food at an affordable price and friendly staff, we enjoyed eating there twice. We'd both go back to the area just to enjoy another meal there!

The weather wasn't the best those first few days, as it was mostly dull and grey. But, it didn't rain and there was very little wind. We did occasionally have glimpses of the sun, when there were breaks in the cloud. Although I didn't have the opportunity to photograph lovely reflections in the loch, the low lying mist over the water still made for some interesting arty shots.

We enjoyed some lovely walks in the local area, in the Inversnaid nature reserve, around Loch Arklet and along the eastern shore of Loch Lomond. Whilst there wasn't an abundance of wildlife, we did have a fleeting view of a Dipper, some lovely closer sightings of a Treecreeper and Nuthatch, and disturbed some Hooded Crows scavenging for food. The highlight of those days was probably on the first day, when we walked above and beyond the nature reserve. We found a gorgeous picturesque burn (stream) and a lone tree. In the distance, we could hear the Red Deer stags roaring. It was like a teaser. I wanted to see more of the deers and not just hear them far away.

We enjoyed some lovely walks in the local area, in the Inversnaid nature reserve, around Loch Arklet and along the eastern shore of Loch Lomond. Whilst there wasn't an abundance of wildlife, we did have a fleeting view of a Dipper, some lovely closer sightings of a Treecreeper and Nuthatch, and disturbed some Hooded Crows scavenging for food. The highlight of those days was probably on the first day, when we walked above and beyond the nature reserve. We found a gorgeous picturesque burn (stream) and a lone tree. In the distance we could hear the Red Deer stags roaring. It was like a teaser. I wanted to see more of the deers and not just hear them far away.

I enjoyed visiting Inversnaid Falls too. We walked up to the higher level, which was worth the effort to see the mass of water tumbling down over the rocks. Conveniently, there was a bench near the top for us to rest and enjoy a hot drink. The only problem was, it made us feel very short! Our feet didn't touch the ground. It wasn't the only time this happened.

Late one afternoon we drove to Killin, enjoying a brief stop at Loch Lubnaig on the way. In Killin, the Falls of Dochart were as impressive as expected and we managed to reach it just before the sun went down.

The main purpose of the visit though, was to try and spot some Beavers at dusk. We walked along the river and saw some evidence of their presence, but unfortunately the creatures themselves eluded us. It was a shame, but we knew it would be a long shot, so we weren't that disappointed. It was an enjoyable scenic walk along the river all the same and we had a lovely meal at the Killin Hotel afterwards. However, the highlight unexpectedly came right at the end of the day on the drive back to Loch Arklet. It was dark and only the headlights from our car lit the narrow road ahead of us. A Weasel suddenly appeared from the side of the road. Immediately, I slowed right down. It stopped, looked our way, then jumped about a little frantically before quickly leaping and bounding back the way it came. We were both thrilled! It's the first time I've seen one in the wild.

From Loch Arklet we travelled north towards the Wester Ross area for our next stay in Ardarroch. It was a stunning drive with moody skies. We stopped a few times along the way at various scenic lookouts, including The Three Sisters, Glencoe.

In Ardarroch we stayed in a fabulous cabin overlooking Loch Kishorn. On our first evening, we walked down to the beach and surprisingly, we saw a Red Deer - our first for the holiday. I hadn't expected to see one so close. Later, we could hear bellowing, once again from the mountains. I was hopeful we'd be lucky and have some better views in daylight. However, Storm Babet had reached Scotland, bringing extremely strong winds to the west, with gusts well over 40mph. Not ideal for driving on a narrow mountain pass or walking in the highlands.

We decided not to attempt a walk up in the highlands on the first day due to the high winds, but we did drive over the mountain pass - very gingerly, I might add - to Applecross. On the way up, there was a waterfall to one side of the road. The water cascaded downhill, but at the top, wisps of water were being blown upwards. We didn't see any deer high up on the mountain, but once we were lower down on the other side, we spotted a small herd of mostly hinds sitting in a field. Then down on the outskirts of the village, there was a large herd of stags where I'd seen them the year before. Whilst wild and free to come and go, they were all in one field, no doubt enticed there by food. It wasn't until later in the day, when we were driving back, that we were really lucky and spotted a young stag high up on the more rugged terrain, a little distance above the road. Then we heard the deep bellow coming from another stag higher up. Fabulous!

The main reason for being in the area, aside from seeing the Red Deer, was to go searching for some Mountain Hares and Ptramigan on the mountain. Our window of opportunity was diminishing, with only one more day there. But, still the wind was strong. It almost ripped the door open as I got out of the car at the top of the pass. We debated whether it was wise to give it a stab and attempt the walk up. I think we were both having doubts, but then spotted a couple walking down. It gave us the hope we could manage it, if we were careful. We certainly put on plenty of layers to protect ourselves from the cold and used the monopods to assist with walking. There were times the wind literally stopped me in my tracks, and other times, it knocked me sideways making me stagger as if I were drunk. This was perhaps not a good day for walking over uneven ground and on scree. The rocks would often wobble underfoot. I was always slow and careful, taking my time with each step, not least because we were walking uphill. Perhaps not so surprisingly, the Mountain Hares and Ptarmigans were taking shelter from the wind, which any sensible person would also be doing. Even though we didn't see any, we felt satisfied we'd at least tried.

On our way back down along the wide track, I suddenly spotted a hind with a juvenile. They weren't that far from us and thankfully didn't run away. It was fabulous having the opportunity to photograph them, though it wasn't easy. Despite using monopods, the wind made it extremely challenging to remain perfectly still. In our favour, at least, the light was improving somewhat. Although we didn't find what we went looking for that day, seeing the deer at the end made it all worthwhile.

That wasn't the last we saw of the deer either. I was keeping my eagle eyes open whilst Bob was driving us back down the winding pass. I spotted a small herd above the road, spread out on the mountainside. But, a few were eating grass very close to the road, near a large boulder. It wasn't exactly a place where we could stop easily for any length of time, but for a short spell, whilst there were next to no cars around, we managed to use the car as a hide and take a few photos without disturbing the deer at all.

Further down the road, we spotted even more deer and were able to stop the car and alight the vehicle. The day really had turned into a deerfest. I hadn't expected to see so many.

The following day was wet and very overcast, but since we were driving east from Kishorn to Boat of Garten, it didn't disrupt our plans. It just meant we weren't able to fully appreciate the beauty of the scenery along the drive. We followed the north coast route to Torridon and then cut inland. The views of the mountains were impressive though. It was wonderful to see snow on the peaks of the mountains - the first of the season. I love the snow. I know it can be extremely inconvenient, but it makes everything look so gorgeous. I was excited at the possibility there would also be snow up in the Cairngorms, where we were headed.

The following day was very overcast and wet at times, but since we were driving east from Kishorn to Boat of Garten, it didn't disrupt our plans. It just meant we weren't able to fully appreciate the beauty of the scenery along the drive. We followed the north coast route to Torridon and then cut inland. The views of the mountains were impressive. It was wonderful to see the snow-covered peaks - the first of the season. I love the snow. I know it can be extremely inconvenient, but it makes everything look so gorgeous. I was excited at the possibility there would also be snow up in the Cairngorms, where we were headed.

Over the previous two days we'd worked fairly hard to locate any deer and photograph them. We were so chuffed we'd been lucky enough to have a few fairly close sightings. So, you can imagine our surprise when we pulled into a car park to find a Red Deer stag loitering right beside the cars. Despite signs warning visitors not to feed the deer, food had been left out on the ground in places. The temptation of an easy meal for the deer was overriding its natural instinct to avoid humans. Some people didn't seem to fully grasp it was a wild animal - one they probably ought not to interact with, for the sake of the animal as much as themselves. One woman thought it was a good idea to try and stroke it. Naturally, we were keen to take some photographs, but we tried to keep our distance - not easy when it would walk towards us. All the photos of the deers I'd taken before then were using my telephoto lens at its full length, but now, with it pulled in to its widest, the deer was filling the frame. Crazy!

Over the previous two days we'd worked fairly hard to locate any deer and photograph them. We were so chuffed we'd been lucky enough to have a few fairly close sightings. So, you can imagine our surprise when we pulled into a car park to find a Red Deer stag loitering right beside the cars. Despite signs warning visitors not to feed the deer, food had been left out on the ground in places. The temptation of an easy meal for the deer was overriding its natural instinct to avoid humans. Some people didn't seem to fully grasp it was a wild animal, one they probably ought not to interact with, for the sake of the animal as much as themselves. One woman thought it was a good idea to try and stroke it. Naturally, we were keen to take some photographs, but we tried to keep our distance - not easy when it would walk towards us. All the photos of the deers I'd taken before then were using my telephoto lens at its full length, but now, with it pulled in and it's widest, the deer was filling the frame. Crazy!

By the end of our first week, we'd certainly done well on our deer sightings. We just hoped our luck would continue for the second week with our quest to find Mountain Hares and Ptarmigan. A lot would depend on the weather and it was still looking very changeable and challenging for the week ahead. I remained optimistic, as we still had plenty more time. Plus, I was having so much fun and couldn't wait for more wildlife adventures with Bob.

Autumn Tour of Scotland - Part 2

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A Day Trip To Wiltshire

Sun, 10 Sep 2023 13:33:12 GMT

April 2023 marked the end of my quest to see all the butterflies that live their complete life cycle in Sussex. The final species I saw, during the Easter weekend, was the Large Tortoiseshell. Following the exciting conclusion to my adventure, I wrote a post about Discovering the Butterflies of Sussex . In it I mentioned how chuffed I was with what I'd achieved and how I didn't really want to start the next obvious quest straight away, to see all the UK butterfly species. But, with the spring and summer months stretching out before me, it seemed silly not to make a start this year. Bob and I were still in the early stages of our budding romance, and the idea of spending a lovely long day out together was just too enticing to pass up. So, in late May, we headed over to Martin Down National Nature Reserve in Wiltshire, in the hope of seeing the Marsh Fritillary. It would be my first, but not for Bob. He's already seen all the UK butterfly species, except for the Cryptic Wood White, which is only found in Ireland.

We woke super early and reached the nature reserve by 8am. Unsurprisingly, we were the first ones there. It was still quite cool and a little windy, but nice enough to enjoy our breakfast sitting on a bench by the car park, overlooking the wildflower meadow and the hills just beyond to the south. We heard a Cuckoo calling nearby - an unmistakable sound of spring. Lovely! It was a great start to the day.

Before we set off along the path, I made sure the bottom of my trousers were tucked into my socks. This is a necessary step to prevent ticks finding their way to my skin. It's not full-proof mind! But it worked on this occasion!

Rather than walk along the main track, we followed a narrower path along the edge of the meadow, keeping our eyes open for anything of interest. I just happened to glance down towards the grass on my left and saw this gorgeous little Grizzled Skipper with its wings wide open, warming up. It was my first of the year. It's the second smallest butterfly in the UK and a real cutie, as far as I'm concerned!

Further along our walk, but still quite early, we saw some more of them in a more dense bit of vegetation. It was hard for me to get a clear shot of them with so much distracting background, but I was rather pleased with the second one shown here, which is quite nicely backlit. I enjoy taking these kinds of shots. I had to get down really low to be at its eye level, but by doing so, it makes me feel like I'm in its world.

A Yellowhammer and Corn Bunting were both heard, then seen, at the top of the hedgerow alongside the path. Shortly after, I spotted a male Goldfinch drinking from a puddle of water on the track. It was too quick for me, and flew off before I was able to get a sharp image. A male Stonechat was also teasing me. It was posing on the tops of the lower shrubs and trees, but never settling for long. I tried sneaking up on it, slowly and quietly, whilst Bob waited patiently back on the path. He wasn't bothered with getting a shot. But, as luck would have it, when I tried to get closer to the Stonechat, it flew away from me and landed much closer to Bob, posing nicely. He couldn't resist a quick snap and got the shot I wanted! Of course! I didn't hold it against him. That's the way it goes sometimes. I certainly couldn't complain, as a little later I was able to photograph this juvenile Stonechat that was far less flighty. It just looked stunning with the Hawthorn in full blossom all around it.

Lots of people have been noticing how amazing the Hawthorn blossom has been this year. I've never seen it look so good. Some trees were white and others a lovely soft pink colour. It was quite breathtaking!

Early in the morning I spotted a few Hairy Shieldbugs, which are a little different to the ones I usually see on my walks. I was also very pleased to see an Adder basking in the sun at the foot of the hedgerow. Bob spotted it first - he's got eagle eyes! It's just one of the many reasons why he's such a good tour guide! I was certainly happy to be having my own private tour with him. He's so knowledgeable! He explained that the snake was ready to shed its skin - referred to as sloughing - and that you can tell because of the colour of its eyes, which have turned opaque.

We finally reached the bank where we could potentially start spotting Marsh Fritillaries, but it was still quite cool and we didn't have any joy. However, the sun was shining and there were plenty of other butterflies to photograph. It was fabulous seeing them all flitting about just above the ground or vegetation. They were everywhere. I almost didn't know what to photograph. All of them were species I'd not yet seen for the year.

I started with the Grizzled Skipper, which I mentioned earlier. Then I moved on to the Adonis Blues and found a mating pair. Although this wasn't a first for me for this species, it's still such a thrill when I find two butterflies mating. I've only been fortunate enough to see it a handful of times, with only a few species.

It's definitely a lot easier to distinguish the difference between the sexes when you find a pair together. The male is the paler of the two on the underwing. You can see a slight hint of the fabulous blue on his upperwing and it's blue furry abdomen. I really like the lovely brown colour of the female's underwings. She's also brown on top, so very different to the male.

In this same area, we also saw Brown Argus. The first photo is of a female. She looks lovely and fresh, with no niks or marks on her. The shape of the abdomen is a great way to tell the difference between the sexes with most species of butterfly (when their wings are open). The female you can see has a slightly thicker, rounder and shorter abdomen than the male. Notice how it doesn't quite reach the end of the hindwing.

The male, seen in the second photo, has a much thinner and longer abdomen, which extends beyond the edge of the hindwing. It also doesn't look as fresh, though it's not in bad shape. The male of the butterflies species are usually first to emerge, so they can mate with the females as soon as they emerge.

You might be wondering how to tell the difference between male and female Brown Argus with the female Adonis Blue, since I mentioned it's brown on the upperwing and no photo is shown. Firstly, the Brown Argus is much smaller. Secondly, they have very distinct orange lunules at the edges of all the wings, whereas you'll find a tiny bit of blue next to the orange in the hindwing of the Adonis Blue females.

We continued to follow the path alongside the ditch and shortly after, I spotted my first Small Blue of the year. It's one of my favourite butterflies. I'd only seen them a few times before. There had to have been over a hundred seen thoughout the course of the day. I stopped to photograph the first few, but then I became more selective. It became a bit of a running joke with us, 'Oh look! Another Small Blue! And another!' What was lovely on this occasion, was seeing multiple ones together, including a male trying to win the attention of a female. Again, when you see both the sexes together, it does make it a lot easier to distinguish between them. The female is larger and fresher looking. The male, bless him, is looking a bit past its best!

We continued to follow the path alongside the ditch and shortly after, I spotted my first Small Blue of the year. It's the smallest of our British species and one of my favourite butterflies. I'd only seen them a few times before. I was now seeing loads. There had to have been over a hundred seen thoughout the course of the day. I stopped to photograph the first few, but then I became more selective. It became a bit of a running joke with us, 'Oh look! Another Small Blue! And another!' It makes me laugh now to think how difficult I'd found it when trying to see my first Small Blue. I was clearly looking in the wrong places! It definitely helps when you know of little hot spots for certain species.

What was lovely on this occasion, was seeing multiple ones together, including a male trying to win the attention of a female. Again, when you see both the sexes together, it does make it a lot easier to distinguish between them. The female is larger and fresher looking. The male, bless him, is looking a bit past its best!

We continued along the path, but there was still no sign of our target species for the day - the Marsh Fritillary. I wasn't worried or disappointed, as there was still lots of time. I remained hopeful. There was in fact a second target species for the day - the Burnt Orchid. It was another species I'd not seen before and Bob knew it's a good site for them. Bob knows how much I like to find things for myself, so he didn't point them out to me when we were very close, but he did say there was something of interest close by. Well, it didn't take long to spot them, as they were on the bank right beside the path. There were small little clusters of them dotted along the route. I love this deep colour red, so they're one of my favourite orchids.

By now, there were a few more people around, either wanting to see the orchids or the Marsh Fritillary. The latter was still being elusive, but we continued looking, walking on the bank above the ditch. It was now late morning and a lot warmer than when we'd started out.

Suddenly, I spotted a fairly large and orange butterfly with its wings wide open on the top of a plant up ahead of me. My heart leapt. Could it be what we'd patiently been waiting to see all morning? Quickly, I took a photo so I could ID it, in case it vanished. Success! At last! I'd found the first Marsh Fritillary of the day. I was thrilled! It was in really great condition, possibly newly emerged. It posed quite a few times for us, and although it flew off occasionally, it never went very far so we were able to spend quite a bit of time with it. We were also quite pleased that no one else was around at that time, so we could really enjoy the moment, just the two of us. Although, a pesky little Dingy Skipper managed to photo-bomb one of my shots!

This is a male Marsh Fritillary. Even though its abdomen is slightly more bulbous, like the female in other butterfly species, with the Marsh Fritillary, the female's abdomen is much broader than this. In this photo you can see the distinct line of orange along the rear edge of the abdomen, which the female doesn't seem to possess.

As usual, I was keen to get a few underwing shots as well as the more common pose with the upperwings fully open on display. It was also fabulous to see it nectaring.

We briefly saw one other Marsh Fritillary whilst photographing this male. The two of them briefly whirled up into the air and then the interloper vanished. By the time we'd had our fill of watching this male, we were ready to move on and eat our picnic lunch. We didn't see any more Marsh Fritillaries in this area and so began our return walk back to the car. Aside from regular sightings of 'yet another Small Blue', we also had a glimpse of a Green Hairstreak near the Burnt Orchids. This was where Bob spotted some Field Fleawort, a rarity in the UK.

On the return leg, a field was being ploughed on the other side of the ditch, outside the nature reserve. It was drawing the attention of a few Red Kites, which flew overhead. It was lovely to see them quite close.

Although there had been more people near the orchids and along that stretch of the path, it was otherwise very quiet on the reserve. It was lovely just ambling along the path, hardly passing anyone, having the peace and quiet to appreciate our surroundings. It was very hot by the afternoon and I was growing weary by the time we came to the end of the ditch. We still hadn't had any more Marsh Fritillary sightings by then, but I was very happy with our encounter with the male. I could go home happy.

Then Bob suggested we go left and follow a small track before making our way to the main path, back towards the car. He'd seen a Marsh Fritillary along there on a previous visit. Would you believe it? One was almost waiting for us, perched on a flower. I don't think either of us were able to grab a shot before it flew off and disappeared. But, it was reassuring there was another flying about. We loitered there for a while, hoping it would return, but it didn't. However, we did spot a Small Blue resting on the strap of Bob's rucksack.

We then retraced our steps back to the path. This time it was me that suggested we explore the same area we had done at the start of the day, where many of our early butterfly sightings had been. Once again, we were rewarded with a fabulous sighting of another Marsh Fritillary (top photo). It didn't take long before we were seeing lots more. Now it was a lot warmer, there was much more activity and we couldn't believe how many we saw in the area - we think there were at least 10 individuals.

It was a real turnaround, having struggled to see just two, to seeing about eight in the space of about an hour. It was wonderful walking around the banks in the area, despite the heat, capturing lots of images of these orange beauties. I was particularly pleased to have a few nice shots of them nectaring on flowers. Unfortunately, I wasn't that close to the individual that landed on a Common Spotted Orchid. Someone else was lucky enough to be closer to take that shot, which hopefully they were pleased with.

Eventually, after our long day out in the sun, we decided we'd had our fill and were ready to walk back along the path towards the car. Eager to rest and relax, I suggested we sit down on the bench again, where we'd had our breakfast at the start of the day, and enjoy some snacks before the long drive home. At first, it was lovely and peaceful. This time it was the sound of a Turtle Dove that made me smile - a sound I don't get to hear so often any more in springtime. But, no sooner had I mentioned us having a little mindfulness moment, someone started their car and music blasted out from their stereo. It was a bit of an assault on our ears! We laughed at the timing! Thankfully, they didn't stay too long.

It really was a perfect day! The only other thing that blighted the memory of it was the fact my car wouldn't start. Not great timing, especially considering it was late afternoon on a Friday before a Bank Holiday weekend. Thankfully, though, after waiting about half an hour, when I tried it again it started. Phew! I didn't dare risk turning off the engine, so we loaded everything up and headed home. Despite that glitch - it was a wonderful day spent in Wiltshire!

Marsh Fritillary

Negative Mental Chatter

Sun, 03 Sep 2023 16:12:30 GMT

I’m generally a positive person. Most of the time I’m optimistic and hopeful, but not always. Sometimes my negative mental chatter dominates and it can really bring me down. It makes me worry too much about things. Even though I know worrying is a waste of time and energy, even though I know it can make me unhappy, I’ve still been guilty of doing it. I’m sure I’m not the only one who does. Worrying is like a bad habit I haven’t been able to kick – that is, until now – and I wanted to share this blog post about my recent experience in the hope it helps others.

Last year, I realised just how much I was worrying and how detrimental it was to my wellbeing. With all the challenges I was facing, which I’ve written about in this blog series , I eventually realised the negativity was causing me added stress. It was bad enough I had two chronic injuries to deal with, I didn’t really need more on my plate. However, many of my worries and fears were actually related to my injuries. I had lots of concerns, like how I could continue teaching, how long I’d suffer, what treatment I should have, what would happen if I took a prolonged break, if I’d manage financially and would the business recover. Gradually, it wore me down. It all just became a bit too much. I felt overwhelmed. I didn’t feel like my usual bubbly happy self at all. Finally, I reached a point when I knew I had to do something to change the downward negative spiral that I was on.

One of the first steps I took to turn things around was to try thinking more positively. I realised I had to stop thinking about the worst-case scenario and all the possible things that could go wrong, but instead tell myself that everything will be alright. I wrote a series of positive affirmations, which I read daily, many of which related to the worries mentioned above. Pretty quickly, I started to feel a bit happier. Soon after, my sister recommended turning these affirmations into Conscious Questions – an approach she’d learned from author and international speaker Nicholas Haines (founder of the Five Institute). With this exercise, I realised that telling myself to be positive was not as powerful as believing deeply that good things would happen. By asking questions, it made me really consider the possibilities.

As an example, I’d been worrying about taking a prolonged break from teaching and whether all those attending my classes would return afterwards. My positive affirmation about this was that I needed to let go of the worry about my classes and trust that everything would work out okay. But, by turning it into a question – Why should I not worry about my classes? – and writing it down, I then considered all the reasons and wrote them down too. It was so interesting to observe the thoughts that came to me. I remembered all the lovely supportive messages from my dancers and how understanding they were about my needing to take the time out. I felt reassured a large number would return, when I was able to – after all, they enjoyed my classes and had already returned after the Covid pandemic lockdowns. Plus, I knew that if numbers were low and some people had moved on to other classes, I could advertise again and build the class numbers back up gradually. With a little time and patience, I felt more confident my business would recover eventually.

Going through this process with the things that worried me, across all areas of my life, was so insightful. But, more importantly, it helped to build my confidence. I was feeling so empowered and positive by the end of the exercise. It was the turnaround I needed to help me along my path to recovery. The tricky part was making sure the positivity lasted!

Throughout my life, I’ve been motivated to better understand myself and others by observing, reading and analysing events and people and the ways they’ve impacted me. It’s something I enjoy doing, even if it can be emotionally challenging at times. I’ve often turned to self-help books because I always find them to be so beneficial and last year was no different. There’s usually plenty that resonates with me and I’m always thinking positively whilst reading them. However, when I’m getting on with living my life, challenges always seem to come along and it’s never quite so easy to maintain that positivity. I invariably slip back in to my old ways. But, last year was different.

When I finally took a break from teaching, I had a lot more time. My hunger to learn, about my mind and my body, meant I devoured books like there was no tomorrow. Each book I read led me to another, and so it continued. I felt sure this was the key to my physical and emotional healing and I wasn’t wrong. Even though each book I read had a slightly different focus or approach, they were all more or less saying the same thing. The common thread was basic and easy to understand. Think positively. Be positive. It’s the key to happiness.

There were two books that had a significant impact on me with regards to understanding my negative mental chatter and why I worry so much – The Secret and The Greatest Secret by Rhonda Byrne. The first one I’d even read before, nearly 20 years earlier. This time, it resonated with me in different ways. It’s funny how that happens. I love it when I read or hear something at just the precise moment in time when I need to. It’s like a little sign guiding me forward.

The Secret is all about the law of attraction and how we draw to us what we focus our attention on. I’ve heard this before. There’s a well-known Tony Robbins quote, ‘Energy flows where attention goes.’ The idea is we should focus our attention on what we want in life and not spend time thinking about what we don’t want, as we’re more likely to make those things happen. At first, I wasn’t sure I really bought into the notion that the universe was making things happen, and that if I wanted something, all I had to do was focus my attention on it. It sounded a bit crazy. I was more than a little sceptical. But as I continued to read, I shifted my perspective. What if, in some unexplainable way that I don’t understand, there is some truth in it? What if thinking positively could draw positive things into my life? Wasn’t it worth trying? How great it would be if it were true. How happy I’d be. When I considered the alternative – being negative – it was a no brainer. After all, I don’t want to expect the worse, to be disappointed, angry, sad, miserable, frustrated, jealous or annoyed, or anything else negative for that matter. All those things make me feel stressed, bad and unhappy. They’re certainly not helpful or productive. It’s just like Bobby Darin sings, Don’t worry! Be happy! I realised, I simply had to be open to the possibility it was true and maybe, just maybe, I’d be a lot happier!

So, I continued to read the book, with more openness. I laughed at some of her examples of when our worrying brings about what we don’t want to happen. I knew they were true. There were countless times I’d worry about spilling something on my clean top, or drop something I was carrying, and, surprise, surprise – I’d do exactly what I didn’t want! But I knew it went deeper than this superficial level. I was very aware in the early part of last year I’d been spending too much time worrying about my injuries, and they became worse, not better. I knew there were other times I’d worried about bigger things and they’d happened too.

In Rhonda’s book, it also mentions how we should try to phrase things positively, not negatively. I realised I’d been guilty of doing that quite a bit in the past. I’m sure we all do and just don’t realise it. So, after reading the book, I set about consciously trying to change how I think and speak, starting with the easier things. Instead of saying, I mustn’t forget – because I invariably do – I started to say, I must remember. I’m also guilty of saying, There’s never enough time! and now I remind myself daily, I have more than enough time to do everything I want to do. To avoid disappointment, I choose now to be grateful for everything I have, rather than focusing on what hasn’t gone my way or I don’t have. With relationships, I’m trying to focus on all the good things that make them work well, rather than worrying about the little things that could irritate or annoy me. Funnily enough, it’s all worked quite well so far and I’m much happier.

Now, whenever I start to feel a bit stressed about something or other, it doesn’t take much to make me feel happy and positive again. It’s the simple things like happy memories, my favourite music and getting out in nature that work so well. I’ve also been enjoying mindfulness moments and have started meditating. All have been beneficial in different ways. I’ve come to realise it isn’t about finding time, but making time to relax and enjoy the important things in life.

The biggest challenge has been stopping the worrying, which of course is a way in which I’ve been focusing my attention on what I don’t want. It’s a habit that’s harder to change, but gradually I am. The main difference now is that I’m very much aware of when I’m doing it. Awareness is key. Something I came to appreciate after reading Rhonda’s second book, The Greatest Secret. It’s hard to explain as it was difficult to grasp some of the concepts, but put simply, I realise now that I’m more than my body and my mind, because I’m aware of both. By trying a little exercise, I was able to see what she was trying to explain. You might want to try it for yourself.

I closed my eyes. For one moment, I eliminated all thoughts, feelings and emotions and imagined everything was still. I let my mind be quiet. I was simply at rest – in the present moment. I noticed my breath and nothing else. I was still present. My mind was not running the show. That’s how I became aware of my being. It’s all about awareness. It’s with this greater awareness I’m now able to notice my negative mental chatter and behaviour patterns. I know I can change. I believe we all have the capacity to. We’re changing all the time. All the cells in our body have constantly been regenerating throughout our life. We have new experiences every day that allows us to modify our beliefs. When we’re open minded, the potential for change is possible.

When I became more aware of the different ways in which I was negative, it was quite an eye-opener. I realised just how much I did it, in sometimes small and subtle ways. One of my regular negative habits is to create imaginary situations in my head and have imaginary conversations. They’re usually in response to something someone has said or done to upset me or, I’d anticipate what I think someone is going to say or do. It’s not always with those that I know or love, but might even involve complete strangers. Rather remarkably, in the midst of one of these imagined scenarios, I found myself saying, Stop! This isn’t real! It worked too. I literally stopped the thought process in its tracks and it vanished. Time and time again, it’s worked. It’s like I’m training my mind to stop thinking negatively. What’s even more amazing, I’ve noticed these imaginary situations actually happen far less frequently than they used to.

The big question really is why I have negative thoughts in the first place. Why do any of us? Only when we ask ourselves this can we be fully aware of our problem. It’s like looking at the roots of a tree, digging deep through emotional layers, to find out what limiting beliefs are beneath the surface and affecting so much of what we think, say and do. When we’re aware of the problem we can then potentially let go of all negativity and be happy and free in the present moment.

When I was young, I was influenced by those around me – not just family and friends, but also teachers and society in general. It’s the same for everyone – even our parents. That was an important realisation, as it allowed me to look back with forgiveness and compassion. We’re all just doing the best we can at any given moment based on our experience and limiting beliefs. But the wonderful thing about our beliefs is they’re not fixed or permanent. We can choose to change what we believe as we experience life – if we’re willing to be open to change. This is empowering stuff! We don’t need to be a victim and suffer. We can take control of our lives and how we respond to situations and people. One of my favourite quotes from The Greatest Secret is:

Don't expect people, circumstances, and events to change for you to feel better, because none of them ever will. You'll never be happy if you wait for the world to change according to your desires or your expectations. To change how you feel in any given moment is always an inside job.

I know I’m quite critical of myself and I’ve also received criticism for how I am. I’m pretty sure most of us are similar, otherwise there wouldn’t be as many self-help books published as there are! In the past, I’ve been guilty at different times in my life of saying or believing:

I’m not pretty,

I look ugly when I have spots,

That outfit looks awful on me,

I won’t get a boyfriend if I have short hair,

I’m not attractive if I don’t wear make-up,

I shouldn’t talk too much,

I’m not smart enough,

There’s something wrong with me,

I’m not good enough.

There are probably more, but these ones came to mind first when I thought about it. Gosh! When I look at that list, I think it’s no wonder I’ve been negative in the past. These limiting beliefs have given rise to my worries and fears and affected decisions I’ve made in my life. It’s quite sobering. Boy, we can be tough on ourselves! I wouldn’t dream of saying any of those things to anyone else, so why on earth did I say them to myself or believe they were true? It’s this kind of negative mental chatter that is the most damaging. It can make us feel unworthy of love. Thank goodness, I don’t believe any of those statements now.

A long time ago, I distinctly remember reading the advice that we should be our own best friend. It’s so true! I know it’s something I need to remind myself every now and then and I don’t think I’m alone. How many times have you said to yourself, Well done! Good job! That’s so kind! You look great! If you’re anything like me, not many, I imagine. A bit of self-love is important for us all, along with forgiveness and kindness. Sometimes, I think I’ve been able to forgive others more readily than I’ve been able to forgive myself. I also can’t help but feel, if there were more kindness in the world, I’m sure it would be a much better place.

I have to say, now that my eyes have been opened and I’m more aware of my negative mental chatter, I’ve managed to make lasting change in my life. I’m so much happier and more positive, which brings me to my final thought. Positivity is infectious! People like it and are drawn to it. Even a smile has the power to lift the spirits of someone else. On the flip side, negativity can be draining. Not only can it bring yourself down, but others too. Misery may love company, but when you’re feeling positive and happy, you don’t really want to be around someone who is miserable!

For much of last year, I didn’t really want to see friends because I wasn’t in a great place. I didn’t want to burden others or bore them with the challenges I was facing. But, I didn’t hide away completely. I saw a lot of the two people I rely on most for love and support - my sisters. It was only when I was feeling more positive and on the up-curve did I start seeing friends again. I remember meeting up with one particular friend who admitted to me afterwards how reticent she’d been about seeing me that day. She had her own worries at the time and in her current state of mind, she wasn’t sure she could handle me feeling low. At this point, she didn’t know I’d turned a corner and was much happier. Apprehensively, she agreed to meet up and certainly wasn't expecting the bundle of energy that turned up on her doorstep that day. I was on such a high - upbeat and positive about life. She found it infectious. We chatted for ages about what we’d both been going through and I shared some of the insight I’d gained from what I’d read and the alternative therapists I’d seen. By the end of the visit, she said how much more motivated she was. It felt so good to know that my positivity was helping her and it lifted me further.

That day reminded me how sharing our experiences in life can really help others. That was why I wanted to share this blog series in the first place. It was a big step for me to be so open and honest, but I don’t regret it at all. In doing so, I’ve received some lovely positive feedback, which has been so encouraging. It’s made me very happy. Ultimately, sharing gives us great strength and confidence to face life’s challenges, when we know we’re not alone. It’s important to remind each other we have the power to change. Our happiness is in our hands.

I've been on such an exciting journey of self-discovery these past few years. I feel so empowered by the knowledge I can heal myself by thinking more positively. Of course, negative thoughts do still occasionally invade my mind, but I'm aware of it more now, so I'm able to remind myself to stop being so negative. I'm sure, in time, it will happen less and less. I’m learning to love myself and be happy within. I feel a greater sense of fulfilment, being true to myself. Only now, do I truly and deeply feel ready for whatever lies ahead. A large chapter of my life has ended and a new one is beginning. I’m optimistic and hopeful, like I’ve never been before. I’m positive my future will be great!

See first post in this series...

Isle Of Mull

Fri, 11 Aug 2023 14:29:31 GMT

This summer, I was enticed back to Scotland by the wildlife on the Isle of Mull. Travelling with my photography buddy, we only could get away for just over a week. I knew it wouldn’t really be enough time to fully appreciate all that is on and around the island, but, it was a great opportunity to do a recce for future visits. I was sure we'd have a great time, even if it meant a lot of driving.

As usual, I planned it so we could break up our journey north with an interesting stopover somewhere new. On this occasion, we stayed near Kielder Forest in Northumberland. We would have a full day to explore the area and go for a walk. I was even hoping to see a rare butterfly, the Large Heath. But the weather conditions were not in our favour. Despite two attempts to see the butterfly, neither were successful.

Rain also meant we spent a large time under cover. We sat in a hide watching lots of waterbirds. They didn't seem to mind that it was tipping it down. Sadly, there was no sign of any Red Squirrels, which had been the main reason for visiting the area. What we did see along the short walk leading to/from the hide were some Common Spotted and Northern Marsh Orchids, plus some very cute, and very tiny, toadlets.

The following day we drove from Kielder Forest to Oban on the west coast of Scotland. It's quite a pretty seaside town, but with the chaos on the roads from all the ferry traffic, I'm not sure I'd want to live there. I'm sure the locals especially avoid the supermarket on Saturdays. Everyone departing for the islands, ourselves included, seemed to be there at the same time, stocking up with food for the week. It was a bit like a supermarket sweep.

We met a lovely couple on the ferry over to Mull. During the whole journey, they were giving us lots of top tips on where to see things. They seemed to love the wildlife as much as us, so we were very grateful for their help. As I was to later discover, many people return year after year to the island. This was about their 13th visit! The funny thing was, we bumped into them again the next day at one of the eateries they'd recommended. We often saw the same people twice, in different locations. The island was small enough for that to happen and not overrun with people. It was one of Mull's many charms.

We arrived at our fabulous cottage in Dervaig, north of the island, early in the evening on the Saturday. We literally unloaded the car, decided which room we were each having and then started to prepare our dinner. As far as welcomes go, ours was pretty fabulous. There was a bottle of wine and locally made biscuits for us, courtesy of our hosts. Whilst we ate dinner, I happened to look outside and see a male Hen Harrier fly by, not that far away up the hill. Then later, whilst it was still fairly light, a Hedgehog was seen in the garden. I was sure we'd have a great week after such a good start.

One of the things I really love about being so far north in the summer, is the days are really long. On the flip side, we'd left the warm sunny days behind back home. Throughout the course of our week, the weather was noticeably colder, wetter and windier. But amazingly, even though the forecast was sometimes not great, it often was better than predicted or it would change quickly. I’ve never experienced such changeable weather in one day before. Rainy spells were frequent, but intermittent. There were just as many spells of sunshine. With so many mountains on the islands, there are quite a few micro climates, so if it was bad in one place, it was possibly better elsewhere. We did fairly well missing most of the rain and certainly didn't let it ruin our week.

We arrived at our fabulous cottage in Dervaig, north of the island, early in the evening on the Saturday. We had a fabulous welcome - a bottle of wine and locally made biscuits were left out for us by our hosts. Whilst we ate dinner, I happened to look outside and see a male Hen Harrier fly by, not that far away up the hill. Then later, whilst it was still fairly light, a Hedgehog was seen in the garden. I was sure we'd have a great week after such a good start.

I’ve never experienced such changeable weather in one day before. Rainy spells were frequent, but intermittent. There were just as many spells of sunshine. With so many mountains on the islands, there are quite a few micro climates, so if it was bad in one place, it was possibly better elsewhere. We did fairly well missing most of the rain and certainly didn't let it ruin our week.

Driving around the island was easy. Although the roads were narrow, they're generally in good condition with lots of regular passing places. Plus, unlike counties like Devon where the hedges are high and close to the road, there was mostly a lot of space to see what was ahead and to our sides. The main things to be wary of were the occasional rocks that were jutting out across the edge of the road and also some fairly big drops between the road and the gravel on the side. Of course, there were also animals to be mindful of. There were road signs warning about livestock crossing, but also for otters. I read on a flier, there are on average about a dozen otter deaths on the island's roads every year, which is really sad. To be honest, when you're on holiday, who wants to speed around? There were lots of wonderful views to admire. The island has a stunning coastline, plenty of towering mountains and undulating hills, waterfalls and picturesque lochs, and all of that can be seen from the road. I felt like a Sunday driver every day, pootling along and appreciating all the natural beauty around us.

Traffic jams only ever occurred when there were animals on the road. Even then, it never usually involved any more than four vehicles at most. There were many times we had to slow down or stop altogether for the geese, sheep or cows that were either crossing the road or walking alongside it. The latter was more concerning, since the roads were narrow. There wasn't a great deal of room for my car and a cow. When a bull crossed the road in front of us, we stopped completely. It was a massive beast. Taller than my car, I discovered, as he walked alongside us. I really wouldn't want to annoy him! The only other time we had to be patient was when we came across a calf or lamb suckling its mother in the middle of the road. The frantic wiggling of the lambs tail one time, was enough to make me smile. I was on holiday. I could wait! There was never any need to rush!

Of course, there were also animals to be mindful of. There were road signs warning about livestock crossing, but also for otters. I read on a flier, there are on average about a dozen otter deaths on the island's roads every year, which is really sad. To be honest, when you're on holiday, who wants to speed around? There were lots of wonderful views to admire. The island has a stunning coastline, plenty of towering mountains and undulating hills, waterfalls and picturesque lochs, and all of that can be seen from the road. I felt like a Sunday driver every day, pootling along and appreciating all the natural beauty around us.

They were quite memoriable moments on the roads. There was another one that really sticks in my mind, but for different reasons. We had to wait about five minutes when a herd of sheep were being moved from one area to another. The farmer was by the vehicle in front of us. I think there must have been a dog doing the mustering as he stayed where he was. When the sheep were finally off the road, he climbed back into his truck, giving me an unexpected view of his thong. That was a surprise! It made me laugh so much. I guess you should never judge a book by its cover!

During the week, we enjoyed a few trips to picturesque Tobermory. We indulged in a little retail therapy at the craft shops, topped up with locally produced food and ate out at one of the many eateries. However, we avoided the place when the cruise ship was in port.

On our first day, we enjoyed a walk on the north east of the island. Soon after passing the standing stones (photo), we heard - then saw - two large birds of prey flying high in the near distance. They looked bigger than a Buzzard, so I took a few photos, even though they weren't especially close. I'd worry about the ID later. It turned out we saw our first Golden Eagles, which was pretty exciting, even if we didn't know it at the time!

I was also very happy that day to see a Hedgehog in the wild, in daylight. Another first for me. It was scurrying down a grassy path towards us. I'm sure it would have come very close if a horserider hadn't arrived just at that moment. The Hedgehog instinctively curled up into a spikey ball and only when it thought the coast was clear, did it open up and quickly head off into the dense vegetation.

By the time we were heading back to the car, a small group of Highland Cows were blocking our way on the path ahead. My friend has a serious aversion to cows, so to avoid them, we detoured through the field. By chance, we accidentally disturbed a few hares. They looked different to the Brown Hares I was used to seeing back home. I discovered that was because they were in fact Mountain Hares. They're smaller and their fur is a different colour, more like that of rabbits.

On this visit, I didn’t arrange any boat trips to the smaller islands nearby, however, I enjoyed a half day whale watching boat trip from Tobermory with Staffa Tours. On the way out of port we saw an otter and some seals swimming, plus a White Tailed Eagle on sentry duty on one of the cliffs. The Glenmore Estate looked impressive too, up on the hill overlooking the sea as we headed further out. Unfortunately, we had limited success with seeing Cetaceans. Just a solitary Minke entertained us for a while, slowly gliding through the water exposing its dorsal fin. I didn't mind so much, it was an enjoyable trip. But, it would've been better if the youngish woman working on board hadn't told us they'd seen four Minke Whales lunge feeding the previous day! I was sorry to miss such an amazing spectacle. However, I know wildlife is unpredictable and you never know what you'll experience when you're out in nature.

There were also seabirds we could enjoy watching from the boat that day. Many were resting on the water until being disturbed by us appraoching. There were Puffins, Guilemots, Gannets and a large number of Manx Shearwaters (photo). They'd either dive down or fly off as we neared. I love watching them take off as they appear to run on water.

I've seen Manx Shearwaters before near Skomer Island in Wales. Apparently, their long narrow wings make them brilliant gliders. We have a very large number of them breeding in the UK - 80% of the total global population. They're actually on the UK Conservation Concern’s Amber list of at-risk species. This is mostly due to their nests being disturbed and potentially destroyed by invading rodents.

It was great to capture a few photos to show how they fold their wings back as they plummet towards the water. They can reach up to 60mph. It's amazing they don't break their necks! But, apparently, the vertebrae lock in place before entry to prevent that from happening.

In the distance, I could see jets of water spurting upwards. I became all excited. I thought there was a whale up ahead, expelling water from its blow hole. But then I realised, it was actually the splashes from diving Gannets. This was equally exciting to witness. They look so impressive with their wings fully outstretched, just before they're about to dive down. It was great to capture a few photos to show how they fold their wings back as they plummet towards the water. They can reach up to 60mph. It's amazing they don't break their necks! But, apparently, the vertebrae lock in place before entry to prevent that from happening.

The birds of prey draw many people to Mull, as the island plays host to many species including Golden Eagles, White Tailed Eagles and Hen Harriers, all of which we saw. Someone told us you can see Osprey too, but we didn’t see any. Owls can also be heard or seen on the island, but not the Little Owl. We were very fortunate enough to see a Short Eared Owl when I was driving along one morning. It flew across the road in front of us. Unfortunately, we weren't able to stop to photograph it, but it was lovely to see nonetheless. We'd heard that numbers of breeding pairs were low on the island this year due to a crash in the vole population. Sadly, flooding can have that effect.

Loch na Keal (photo) was one of the areas that was great for seeing the large eagles flying overhead. The first time we visited the loch we saw two birds very high up having a bit of a spat on the wing. We realised it was a Golden Eagle (left) and an immature White Tailed Eagle (right). Trying to identify the species with the binoculars was tricky, due to my lack of experience. It was easier to distinguish the differences from the photos afterwards. The tail of the juvenile was not fully white, like it is in the adult of the species. The feathers appear to have dark fringes. The shape of the wings when fully outstretched is also different between the two species. As someone told me whilst we were there, the White Tailed Eagle's wings look a bit like a plank of wood and the Golden Eagle's wings were slightly more curved. As I discovered, that's not so easy to determine when they're on the move!

The following day, we were in the same area and saw two White Tailed Eagles flying together - an adult and a juvenile. Their behaviour was intriguing because the adult (left) seemed to be communicating with the juvenile (right) in an odd way. It looked a bit like they were also having a spat, but soon after they were gliding around together. To add to our confusion that day, and the challenge of identifying the eagles in flight, there was also a Golden Eagle overhead nearby.

We'd been told about a Dipper that could be seen on one of the rivers near Loch na Keal. I was eager to try and locate it, having only ever seen one once before, in Wales. My friend had never seen one and didn't know what they looked like. I started describing it to her. I didn't actually need to bother. We stood on the bridge and looked down to the river and there was one, perched on an exposed rock in the water. It was doing its characteristic bobbing up and down, for which it's named.

Although it was a bit dark for photographs with all the overhanging vegetation, it was lovely spending a short while taking some images of the Dipper. I was eager to return another time, only there was no sign of it. After all the rain, the water level was much higher and all the exposed rocks from before were now submerged.

Midweek, we had a second boat trip with Mull Charters to see White Tailed Eagles up close, departing from Ulva Ferry this time. It was definitely one of the highlights of our trip. It was a small photography group with only 6 people on board. It meant there was plenty of room to move about.

Although the eagles were our top priority, there were other birds sticking close to our boat, hopeful for any scraps and making for good photographic opportunities. I especially enjoyed capturing them flying overhead. I also picked up a few tips, such as telling the difference between the Lesser (photo) and Greater Black-Backed Gulls. The Lesser ones, as the name suggests, are smaller, but also have yellow legs and a lighter grey coloured back and wings.

We'd been told about a Dipper that could be seen on one of the rivers near Loch na Keal. I was eager to try and locate it, having only ever seen one once before, in Wales. My friend had never seen one and didn't know what they looked like. I was just describing it to her when we saw it perched on an exposed rock in the water. It was doing its characteristic bobbing up and down, for which it's named. Although it was a bit dark for photographs with all the overhanging vegetation, it was lovely spending a short while taking some images of the Dipper. I was eager to return another time, only there was no sign of it. After all the rain, the water level was much higher and all the exposed rocks from before were now submerged.

There were also a few Common Terns flying around. I thought I didn't have any luck photographing them. It was only when I was back home that I discovered one had photo bombed a shot of a White Tailed Eagle. I was rather pleased about that. Although it was behind the eagle, it's great to see the huge difference in size.

The White Tailed Eagles are really impressive birds with a huge wingspan of up to 2.4m. When we were near the location of a known nesting pair, one fish was thrown overboard to entice one of the eagles out. From its perch on the cliffs nearby, a male approached us, gliding effortlessly down and then flapping his mighty wings. It wheeled around in the sky before swooping down feet first with great precision and talons ready to grab the fish. You can really see its keen focus as it approaches. So powerful and magnificent! I love how elegant it looks as it's about to take off again - almost balletic.

With more than half a dozen pairs in the area, we didn’t stay too long with any one bird. We had just 5 visits or opportunities to photograph them up close. It was such an amazing experience.

On our way back to shore we passed some Harbour Seals hauled out on the kelp covered rocks. There were even a few young pups too. Some merely raised their head to see what was disturbing them, a few skittish ones quickly retreated into the water and others didn't move a muscle.

Near Ulva Ferry was the picturesque Eas Fors Waterfall, which was conveniently accessible right beside the road.

There was so much we could see from the car without even needing to leave it. We used it like a hide. The next five photos were all taken this way as we drove slowly around the lochs keeping an eye open for any otters. Sadly, they were quite elusive. Along our drives we saw plenty of Black-faced Sheep and a few female Goosanders.

We had frequent sightings of Common Sandpipers, which I'd not seen before. I only saw solitary ones, skirting the edges of the saltwater lochs. I've read they prefer freshwater. Perhaps the food is so abundant and better on the saltwater lochs that they do things differently up on Mull. But, I daresay they regularly need to clean their feathers in the freshwater rivers feeding the lochs, of which there were plenty.

I was thrilled to have two good sightings of a Snipe at one particular loch. I'd only ever seen this species twice before back home. They're normally pretty shy creatures, usually hiding amongst the reeds at the edges of ponds and lakes. So, to see one standing out in the open was surprising, but a dream come true.

We also saw lots of Highland Cows throughout the week. It was great when they were close to the road and easier to photograph. They really were very docile and relaxed, and definitely more interested in eating than exerting any energy chasing my friend and I. They're such an iconic native species to photograph.

It was great to finally get a nice close up view of some Oystercatchers by the shoreline, amongst the kelp. I see them along the beach at Worthing, but they always fly off whenever I'm close. They can see me coming. There isn't much there to hide behind. But up on Mull, when I wasn't using the car as a hide, I was able to hide behind a larger rock, and I went unnoticed. On this occasion I was waiting for an otter.

Photographing River Otters was the main aim of the trip. We booked a couple of days with photographer Brian Boyes . He'd been recommended to us by someone we knew. Brian is passionate about otters and he shared a lot of his knowledge with us about how to spot them and all the signs in the environment to look for, like scat and spraint sites. I discovered that although they normally prefer freshwater, many of the Mull otters actually fish in the saltwater lochs. Probably because there's an easier source of food that's also in abundance. However, they still need access to freshwater to wash off the salt water from their fur.

We were in Brian’s vehicle for the two days, which was higher than mine, so it was easier to see over the vegetation by the side of the road. We drove very slowly around a loch, keeping our eyes fixed on the water and rocks, looking out for any signs of movement. Brian was looking for them too, but also having to keep his eye on the road and for any other cars wanting to pass us. Thankfully, it was a quiet location so it didn't happen very often.

On our first day, the otters were very elusive and for hours we didn't have any success. We were fooled a few times by the occasional seal popping its head up out of the water inquisitively. Thankfully, as I've mentioned already, there were plenty of birds around the loch to interest us in the interim. I’ve been on enough trips and spent enough time out in nature to know that, with wildlife, there’s no guarantees of sightings. It was something Brian reiterated to us as we searched in vain. He was surprised it was proving so difficult and he was a little stressed. I wasn't worried though. I knew we'd see one eventually. I've said it before, when wildlife sightings are hard earned, they’re more rewarding. And we were rewarded eventually that day.

It was actually the sight of a man in a high-vis jacket running along the shore, then hearing him call out and wave his arms around, that alerted us to the fact he'd spotted something in the water. That's not exactly appropriate behavour when wildlife watching, if you don't want to scare the creature off! It's far better to be subtle and discrete, and hide if you can. Naturally, the otter he'd spotted had moved away from him and popped his head up further along the shore. So Brian drove ahead of where it was, so we could alight the vehicle and head down to the beach, to hide behind a big rock. I knew we'd be potentially sitting amongst the kelp and on wet rocks, so I was wearing my waterproofs and also a very useful pair of kneepads. All we had to do was wait and hope the otter would continue to swim our way.

Just as the otter came into sight, but still a little distance from us, the heavens opened. I’m talking torrential downpour! It was so heavy, but only lasted barely five minutes. I tucked up as small as I could, trying to sheild my camera from the rain, hiding behind the rock. Having waited five hours to see an otter, I wasn’t going to retreat to the car now.

Once the rain stopped, I peered over the rock and positioned my camera on a beanbag and watched and photographed the animal as it porpoised through the water, diving for fish and coming up to eat. A few times it came ashore with its catch. There was a quick shake off of water and it’s fur was all fluffed up again. It was so fabulous to watch, even if it was at some distance away. With the telephoto lens it helped bring all the action a little closer to me.

When it had finished eating, it slipped back into the water and continued on past us. We didn’t follow or chase after it - that’s not good protocol. However, once it was far enough away so our movement wouldn’t disturb it, we returned to the car and we moved much further along the loch. Again, we walked down to the rocky shore and this time hid behind a low rock wall that extended into the water. The otter's behaviour was much like before, spending time searching for food and then coming ashore to eat it. The otter remained some distance from us, but I was just thrilled to see one and have a few short moments watching and photographing it. Fabulous!

No two days are ever the same. In complete contrast to our first day with Brian, in which we’d struggled just to have the one sighting, on the second day we had six sightings. One of these stood out above the rest because for almost an hour, we had the privilege of watching an otter moving about deftly in the water in search of food and repeatedly coming to shore. Gradually, he came closer to our position. As before, we were hiding behind a few rocks low down on the beach, only moving into position when the otter was below the surface.

It was a young male seemingly very wary and cautious, always looking around him. He even looked in my direction a few times. I was using the silent mode on the camera, but it still makes a bit of a noise when you click. But, despite this, he continued to go about his business, ever alert. The light was lovely and the water was very still. It really was perfect! Several times, I refrained from taking photos and just watched him, appreciating and marvelling over the amazing experience.

The otter was seen defecating in the water, which Brian said he'd never seen before. It was another reason why he believed it was a juvenile otter. Usually otters spraint on rocks to mark their territory, which this one wasn't doing.

The youngster ran up to the grassy bank at the back of the rocks, with the older male in hot pursuit. They both disappeared into the tall grass and we didn’t see the juvenile otter again. It ran off. It was the dominant one that returned down to the shore and slipped back into the water and vanished. Having the opportunity to witness behaviour like that was brilliant and more than I’d hoped for.

Things became even more interesting when another otter was seen approaching – a more dominant male. The youngster clambered over the rocks and looked very agitated. For good reason, the older otter would likely defend it’s territory. It wasn’t long before the second otter was also out of the water and the two of them were having a bit of rough and tumble in amongst the rocks. It was hard to see, let alone photograph. Then the youngster ran up to the grassy bank at the back of the rocks, with the older male in hot pursuit. They both disappeared into the tall grass and we didn’t see the juvenile otter again. It ran off. It was the dominant one that returned down to the shore and slipped back into the water and vanished. Having the opportunity to witness behaviour like that was brilliant and more than I’d hoped for.

Towards the end of the day we had our last two otter sightings. One came out on the shingle beach to eat. Unfortunately, there was nowhere for us to hide. We could only lay low on the pebbles ourselves and try not to disturb it. When it was back in the water we tried moving into a better position further ahead, but it didn't come ashore again and continued along the loch where there was no access.

The final otter we saw was also fairly brief, but a lovely encounter too. It climbed up onto a large rock on the shore and left its spraint on the top to mark its territory. It then clambered down, swam through the water to a point past us, then repeated the process on another large rock. The light wasn't brilliant, but it was fabulous to have such a clear view of it out in plain sight.

My Otter experience on Mull was by far and away the highlight of the holiday. But, there was one more special surprise in store for me on my journey back home. A bonus wildlife sighting, when I visited WWT Martin Mere in Lancashire. A Stoatally Fantastic one! (You can read a full account of the experience by clicking on the link).

Before that day, I’d only had a few fleeting Stoat sightings and one distant encounter in very poor light. This time, not only was the light fairly good and the encounter a close one, but also, I saw a whole family of Stoats. It was a dream come true for me. I saw a mum and one kit scampering along the footpath first, and the kit was happily exploring within a few metres from where I was quietly sitting down. But later, I saw six Stoats running towards me along the path and soon after I was lucky enough to see many of the kits playing around. It was such an amazing experience!

Before that day, I’d only had a few fleeting Stoat sightings or in very poor light. This time, not only was the light fairly good and the encounter a close one, but also, I saw a whole family of Stoats. It was a dream come true for me. I saw a mum and one kit scampering along the footpath first, and the kit was happily exploring within a few metres from where I was quietly sitting down. But later, I saw six Stoats. It was such an amazing experience!

It was a long drive for me to/from Scotland for only one week up there, but so worth it. I'll definitely be going for longer next time. Yes, it's already on the cards! I can't wait to go back! I have to say, now I've done that drive a few times, it's really fabulous to have had the opportunity to also explore some other parts of England on the way there and back too. It's a great way to break up the journey. I've loved all my trips to Scotland, for different reasons, but the Isle of Mull visit was so great because I've been wanting to go for such a long time. Having the chance to see some of our amazing British wildlife all on one small compact island, away from the hubbub and with stunning surroundings, was wonderful. The island didn't disappoint!

See Isle of Mull photos...

Stoatally Fantastic

Sun, 06 Aug 2023 13:48:57 GMT

On the drive home from my holiday on the Isle of Mull , I had an overnight stop near WWT Martin Mere in Lancashire. It meant my friend and I could visit the reserve the following morning for a couple of hours before being couped up in the car again for the rest of the day. Since the car was filled with all our luggage and camera equipment, one of us stayed by the vehicle whilst the other explored. The plan was to swap over and then be on our way again. My friend went walkabout first. It gave me a great opportunity to jot down some notes for my blog about the holiday. Just over an hour later, she returned looking unethusiastic. She hadn't seen a great deal from the few hides she'd visited. It was a bit disappointing to hear. Then she casually mentioned seeing what might have been a Stoat. My mood suddenly picked up and my interest was piqued. This was something to be excited about! Since she wasn't 100% sure, we had a look at the photos she'd taken. Sure enough, the characteristic black tail confirmed it had been a Stoat. She was now much more animated and mentioned having had two quite good sightings. She then explained whereabouts she'd been, so I could head there and hopefully see it for myself. She felt sure I'd have a good chance because it seemed to be moving about quite a bit, but within the one area.

Off I set, full of eagerness. I didn't have any interest in visiting the hides. I just wanted to see the Stoat. My previous few sightings were either too fleeting to appreciate or photograph, or in really bad light and too far away. The opportunity to see one in daylight, relatively close, was so exciting. Maybe, I'd finally have a decent Stoat photograph. I walked swiftly along the path towards the place that sh'ed described, then slowed down to a snails pace as I neared it. I didn't see anything. I stood around waiting for a little bit, but still no joy. Rather than stay put, I continued to amble along to the end hide, all the while still hoping I'd be lucky on my way back. There was a lovely sunny spot with about six different species of butterfly all in close proximity to each other. As much as I love seeing butterflies, I didn't linger on this occasion. After taking a few photos, I headed back to the Stoat zone.

Ever so slowly, I made my way along the path, trying to be as quiet as possible. My camera was cradled in my arms, ready for any action. I'd learned from past experience how lightening quick Stoats can be - gone in a flash! I didn't want to miss my opportunity to photograph one, yet again.

Suddenly, up ahead of me at least 10m or more, I saw a small creature dart across the path. It disappeared out of sight into the vegetation on the other side. Moments later, it reappeared and ran further up that side and then disappeared again. Then finally, it scamptered back across the path. I felt sure it was the Stoat. It's behaviour suggested it might come back again, so I strolled up to where it had been. Fortunately, there was a small clearing to one side of the path and rather conveniently, a large stone for me to sit on. I sat down and waited quietly, hoping it would return.

My patience was rewarded. A female bounded along the footpath right in front of me, hardly 3m away, with a little youngster hot on her heels. Wow! Two! I held my breath in sheer delight and amazement. I never dreamed I'd see two Stoats together. They both stopped and looked at me, whilst I took some photos. (You can really appreciate the difference in size and colour between the kit (left) and the adult (right).)

The kit then ran behind its mother. (I love how you can see the extra pair of ears behind the mum in the photo.) Now, much closer together, they both stared at me. It would've made for a lovely photo. But, just as I was about to capture the moment, they turned their heads. Even better! It was a beautiful fleeting moment. Within seconds, they retreated into the cover of the ivy.

They so easily could've headed up and over the bank, obscured from view. That would've been the end of my encounter. But, my luck wasn't over just yet.

The mum reappeared shortly after, still aware of my presence, looking directly at me. After a moments pause, she scampered off down the path, clearly on a mission. Probably to find some food for the kit she was leaving behind. It was hiding in the undergrowth. Every now and then, I could see the ivy twitch and move. The kit certainly wasn't sitting still. Suddenly, it was fully visible again at the edge of the path. With its nose close to the ground, it ventured further out away from cover.

Gradually, the kit inched over in my direction, and began to explore the logs and vegetation on my side of the path. It was less than 2m from me. The little one simply ignored my presence, unthreatened. I sat still, enjoying this very special moment. What a privilege! I was so thrilled. Mesmerised, I watched as the youngster continue to explore its surroundings, popping its head up through the ivy occasionally, before it eventually did retreat to the other side of the path again and over the bank. It was simply gorgeous!

The mum briefly appeared shortly after, but with something in her mouth - a chick of some description - taken from a nest nearby. It was sad to see, but such is nature and the fight for survival. She had a hungry mouth to feed. With them both out of sight, I wasn’t sure if they would reappear. I waited longer - ever hopeful. The minutes passed by and I started to doubt they would be back. Standing up to stretch my legs, I decided to walk a little along the path, but not too far away. I then turned around and ambled back again.

Just as I neared the clearing where I'd been sitting before, suddenly, from around the corner, five or six Stoats came bounding towards me along the side of the path. I scarcely had time to count. But as soon as they saw me, the adult darted into the ivy again, quickly followed by her offspring. Evidently, she had more than one mouth to feed! It all happened so quickly, I didn’t even get a photo. It was disappointing. But how amazing to see a family of Stoats! I didn't think the day could get any better.

I figured she'd been to collect the kits from their hiding place, now that she had some food for them. If they were about to feed, I wasn't convinced I'd see any of them again. But, I continued to linger on the path, just in case. I still had some time before I needed to head back to the car. The minutes slipped by slowly. There was no more movement. After a little while, a family passed me and shortly after, a little girl ran down the path that was on the other side of the bank. It felt like a sign. I hadn't realised there was a path there. I thought either I was supposed to look on that side, or it was just possible her presence might've disturbed them. Perhaps they'd reappear on my side again. I waited, but nothing happened. Eventually, I gave up and walked around the corner to find the access to this slightly hidden path. It was darker and overshadowed by the trees. Only small pockets of dappled light reached the ground.

Up ahead of me was someone else with a camera and I knew he'd also spotted the Stoats. With a bit of gesturing, we communicated in silence. He indicated where they were hiding. Quietly, I edged a bit closer, but still mindful to keep some distance, ever hopeful they would all re-emmerge.

Suddenly, mum reappeared briefly, and then headed off presumably in search of more food. With so many mouths to feed, it would be a relentless job for her until they were able to fend for themselves. Whilst she was off trying to provide for her kits, they started to emerge on the path in front of us, first staying close to the edge of the vegetation, but gradually becoming bolder.

Suddenly, mum reappeared briefly, and then headed off presumably in search of more food. With so many mouths to feed, it would be a relentless job for her until they were able to fend for themselves.

Whilst she was off trying to provide for her kits, they started to emerge on the path in front of us, first staying close to the edge of the vegetation, but gradually becoming bolder.

It was fascinating to watch their behaviour. One kit had wondered off much further than the path and came bounding back down the bank with what I thought was another chick of some description in its mouth. In fact, I'd even thought it was the mum. It moved so quickly. It was only when I saw the photos afterwards that I realised it had only been moss and one of the kits. Perhaps it was helping to build a new nest for the day.

With poor light and their fast speed, it was a challenge to capture good photos that weren't too grainy (when using a high ISO). I kept willing them to move into the dappled light, and occasionally they did, but not often! Stoats certainly aren't the easiest of subjects to photograph!

There were two in particular that were more adventurous and play fighting. Gradually they came much closer to my position and both of them scrambled up a tree stump near me. I was amazed by how unperturbed they were by our presence. They were so curious. It was wonderful to witness. I was truly captivated by them.

I only ever saw three kits at any one time. It was impossible to tell them apart, so it may have not been the same three individuals I saw throughout the encounter.

Eventually, one of the kits came out into the open with a Moorhen chick (I think) hanging limply from its jaws. It stopped in the light, just as I'd been hoping for. I clicked the shutter button. At last, the shot I wanted. Well, perhaps I'd prefer not to have had another creature in the kit's mouth, but such is life. I was happy with the photo, even though I knew it would never make it onto one of my calendars! Soon after, they all disappeared into the ivy at the base of a tree. I wasn't sure if I'd see them again. I figured they might've been resting. It definitely went quiet for a while.

It was good timing really, as I needed to get back to the car. I felt so bad my friend had missed it all. Although we were supposed to be heading off, I felt she should have the opportunity see them for herself. What did it really matter if we were a few hours later home that evening? When you have such a golden opportunity like that one, you shouldn't really walk away. Unfortunately, despite staying longer, and both of us having another stab at watching the Stoats, neither of us saw anything more.

I have to say, it was extremely difficult to tear myself away. But, what a glorious 45 minutes I'd experienced. What a priviledge. I was totally enraptured by the Stoat family. I'd only hoped for a solitary decent photo in daylight. I never dreamed I'd have such an amazing encounter. It was so much more valuable and memorable than simply obtaining a good photo. It was fabulous. Stoatally fantastic!

See Isle of Mull post...

Discovering Butterflies Of Sussex - Part 2

Thu, 08 Jun 2023 21:08:14 GMT

In the first part of this blog , I wrote about how I developed an interest in butterflies in recent years and started to explore new places within my home county to find them. By the end of 2021, I was able to identify and had seen 40 different butterfly species. It was so much fun photographing them and making new discoveries. When I realised how close I was to seeing all the species that live their complete life cycle in Sussex, I was keen to see the remaining few that had eluded me so far. I couldn’t wait for 2022 to arrive and for my butterfly journey to continue.

I had to wait until May to see the next species on my list. However, before then, I had a fabulous outing on the South Downs going in search of Green Hairstreaks towards the end of April. I'd only had a few brief sightings by then, so to spend quite a few hours watching and photographing these beauties, mostly at eye level and not too far away, was wonderful. It was a significant day for me, because I decided to start writing more about my experiences out in nature. At that point in time, I'd only written some posts for my blog relating to my overseas holidays. I began with my Quest To See Green Hairstreaks and since then, I've written several more posts about some of my photo outings. My passion for writing has been reignited!

It was also a significant day for me, because I decided to start writing more about my experiences out in nature. At that point in time, I'd only written some posts for my blog relating to my overseas holidays. I began with my Quest To See Green Hairstreaks and since then, I've written several more posts about some of my photo outings. My passion for writing has been reignited!

When May rolled around, things got off to a great start with my first outings to Park Corner Heath and Rowland Wood, the only Butterfly Conservation nature reserve in Sussex. Once again, it was fun exploring a new place and also, in the case of the Pearl-bordered Fritillary, to find the species for myself. They were fairly easy to see, but not so easy to photograph, with the males constantly flying low to the ground, but only ever briefly settling! At the end of the month, I returned again with Bob, for the Small Pearl-bordered Fritillary, with fewer sightings and photos, but success none the less.

Just the day before that, I saw my first Wood White in Surrey – an endangered species in the UK. I walked along the wide track through the woodland heading towards Oaken Wood, unsure how difficult it would be to see them. As it turned out, not too tricky at all! Walking along, I could see the flutter of white wings up ahead, low to the ground on the sides of the path. The males didn’t settle for long – a now familiar story – so it was challenging to take any decent photos. But later, when I was starting to leave, I spotted a courting pair. The male was waving his proboscis in the air to attract the female – just like I’d read about. How wonderful it was to witness it first-hand. Brilliant!

As an aside, not content with having seen this species in Surrey, in 2023 Bob and I returned to the area and explored an open access woodland in the north of Sussex. We were the only people there, wandering along the grassy rides with our eyes peeled on the vegetation at our sides. We were just about at the point of giving up, and about to turn around, when Bob spotted something small and white up ahead. Lo and behold, a single male Wood White was basking in the late afternoon sun and gave us some wonderful photographic opportunities. It was fabulous to see such a rarity for Sussex.

As an aside, not content with having seen this species in Surrey, this year Bob and I returned to the area and explored an open access woodland in the north of Sussex. We were the only people there, wandering along the grassy rides with our eyes peeled on the vegetation at our sides. We were just about at the point of giving up, and about to turn around, when Bob spotted something small and white up ahead. Lo and behold, a single male Wood White was basking in the late afternoon sun and gave us some wonderful photographic opportunities. It was fabulous to see such a rarity for Sussex.

The next species to emerge on the butterfly calendar, in terms of the species I'd not seen, was another endangered species, the Black Hairstreak. I had no idea at the time I went in search of it, that many people don’t consider it a butterfly of Sussex. Apparently, its origins are questionable. There’s only one colony in the county located near Ditchling and it’s likely to be a result of an accidental introduction (from captive bred butterflies). The nearest known natural colony is in Oxford. You would expect to have more colonies between these two locations, if the range of this species were shifting further south. But this is not the case.

Another time, there were others around, and there was a bit of a frenzy of activity. Everyone wanting to get in close. As always, it was lovely chatting to some new people and seeing some familiar faces. Plus, I picked up some useful tips for seeing the next species on my list – the Silver-studded Blue, which is only found in two locations on opposite sides of the county. I went the very next day.

I set off for Iping Common really early in the morning, so I could enjoy a quiet amble on my own. In fact, I barely saw half a dozen people all morning. Bob had given me an indication of where to look, so it wasn’t quite like looking for a needle in a haystack. However, I wasn’t having any luck. But, I didn’t give up. I walked the circuit again and this time came across a photographer squatting down low. I just knew I was in the right place. I was relieved and happy to finally see one. Well, quite a few actually. I was seeing them everywhere in this one small area – males flying close to the ground over the low scrub. It was fabulous to capture some nice images of them flying. At one point, we also both saw a newly emerged female, revealing her brown wings.

I visited Ditchling twice and both times there were a few active butterflies fluttering near the tree tops. I felt like I was being teased, ever hopeful that one would descend low enough for me to photograph. I really wanted to see one closer so I could fully appreciate the lovely detail on the underside of its wings. The longer I had to wait, the more of a thrill it was when one did suddenly swoop down. Knowing it could be a brief moment, I fired off a few shots swiftly, then moved a bit closer to take more. It was nice to enjoy that moment alone. Another time, there were others around, and there was a bit of a frenzy of activity. Everyone wanting to get in close. As always, it was lovely chatting to some new people and seeing some familiar faces. Plus, I picked up some useful tips for seeing the next species on my list – the Silver-studded Blue, which is only found in two locations on opposite sides of the county. I went the very next day.

Just when I was wondering how much longer I’d stay, a mating pair were seen on the Crossed-leaved Heath. Then I spotted another, and another. It was all happening. I almost didn’t know where to look. It was another unforgettable morning with butterflies.

About two weeks later, it was the vulnerable White-letter Hairstreak I wanted to find, in Brighton. I stood below an Elm tree, having been told about this very precise location where I might see them. Patiently, I waited in the afternoon sunshine and sure enough, one was seen. Just the one. I wasn’t sure if it was typical Hairstreak behaviour, but yet again, it was a species that liked to stay up high. Sadly, it didn’t come down at all, so my only photos were a few record shots. But, I was just happy to see one, because I know the future of this species is in peril. With the spread of Dutch Elm Disease, they are at risk of losing their sole food plant.

When July arrived, it was time for me to look for my final new species, the Grayling, another endangered butterfly. It would be number 47 on my list. I knew roughly where to search for them, but thankfully Bob knew the precise location. Ever since we’d met, he’d been eager to help me with my quest, providing useful information and accompanying me when he could. So, naturally, he wanted to be there at the end, and help me celebrate the momentous occasion, when it happened.

It was a lovely sunny day, but quite breezy, which was less than ideal. I was excited and hopeful as we slowly trudged our way up the chalky footpath on the South Downs. Our eyes were peeled for any signs of movement along the verges. We’d barely walked 100m, and there in front of me, on the path, was a gorgeous Grayling. He obliged me with a few close photos and then we pressed on towards the main colony location. I think both of us were relieved the pressure was off. At least I’d seen one. It wasn’t long before I was seeing many. They were far less flighty than other species and so it was wonderful having the opportunity to take lots of photos. We even found a courting pair. It was fabulous to watch as the male flapped its wings continuously, dancing around the female.

What I hadn’t expected, was for a Grayling butterfly to land on me. In fact, two did, but not at the same time. I’ll never forget looking down at it, perched on my trouser leg, seeing its eyes peering up at me.

There were so many memorable moments that day. You can read more about that wonderful experience in my blog Graylings on the South Downs .

We hadn’t been alone that day. Neil Hulme was already on the escarpment by the time we arrived. The three of us spent the day looking for Graylings, taking photos and chatting. I had a lot of fun. Just as a bonus, Bob and I saw a mating pair of Chalkhill Blues on our way back down the hill - another first for me. I love the brown underwing colouring of the female.

That evening, I should’ve been celebrating my achievement, but the day was tainted with the news that not only had Large Tortoiseshells been seen in the county the week before, but Neil had found evidence they’d emerged rather than migrated. This meant there was another species for me to see. I went in search of them not long after, but to no avail. My window of opportunity closed. I’d have to wait until the following year to see one. It was so disappointing.

What I hadn’t expected was for a Grayling butterfly to land on me. In fact, two did, but not at the same time. I’ll never forget looking down at it, perched on my trouser leg, seeing its eyes peering up at me.

There were so many memorable moments that day. You can read more about that wonderful experience in my blog Graylings on the South Downs .

We hadn’t been alone that day. Neil Hulme was already on the escarpment by the time we arrived. The three of us spent the day looking for Graylings, taking photos and chatting. I had a lot of fun. Just as a bonus Bob and I saw a mating pair of Chalkhill Blues on our way back down the hill - another first for me. I love the brown underwing colouring of the female.

I sat tight during the winter and then, in the early stages of spring, sightings of the Large Tortoiseshell started to crop up once again on social media. I was itching to see one. I started to believe it would be possible. Bob assured me there were a handful of places we could look in East Sussex. Then, just before the Easter weekend, someone reported seeing one at the coast. Bob thought we should go there the following day, although it would be really busy. Despite my eagerness to lay eyes on one, I really preferred the idea of going somewhere else quieter. I wanted us to find one for ourselves that hadn’t been seen by anyone else. That would be far more exciting and rewarding.

We set off for Abbotts Wood where Bob had seen one two years before. After several enjoyable hours walking around seeing lots of things but no Large Tortoiseshells, we eventually decided to go elsewhere. By then, it had clouded over, reducing our chances of success even further. We began to retrace our steps back towards the car. Just as we ambled down the last open ride through the woods the sun reappeared. So too did the butterflies. A Comma and Peacock were showing really beautifully on an old tree stump. Stopping to take photos, afterwards I commented how we just needed a Large Tortoiseshell to land there now. But it didn’t happen.

We continued walking along and only a few minutes later we glanced right towards the woods. My eyes were drawn to a Brimstone a little distance away on the wing. But Bob was looking at a tree much closer to us. A Large Tortoiseshell was basking on the trunk with its wings wide open. Amazing! We were both stunned. Success at last! Quickly, I took some photos as evidence, just in case it disappeared. A few seconds later, it suddenly came to life and took flight, but it landed on a gnarled bit of wood nearby. It looked gorgeous. It posed for us for a few minutes. Then it took off again, this time landing on the embankment, and we slowly crept to it even closer. I was beyond thrilled! That evening, we celebrated with a bottle of bubbly. It was such a special moment, made all the more memorable because it was just the two of us. I was very happy that day.

You can read more about that experience in my blog Easter Treats .

Along this journey, I’ve learned so much more than just identifying the different species. I have a slightly better understanding about the process from egg to caterpillar to pupa then butterfly. More recently, it was such a privilege to see a Speckled Wood pupa - my first! Bob had found it whilst surveying his patch for Wall Brown pupa. We returned a week later and found the butterfly had only just emerged, an hour or so beforehand, and was still close to the pupa casing. I took some photos of the butterfly and noticed the tiny bubble coming out of its abdomen. Bob explained it was the expelling of waste products from the body, which is called meconium - something I'd never heard of before.

It’s amazing how those early stages of life, when combined, last longer than the adult form we see flitting around. Locating the different species of butterfly also means having a greater appreciation for the different habitats, being able to recognise different tree species and food plants. I now know that some butterflies live only a few weeks and others much longer. The life cycle is different for each species too, not only with regards to when it emerges but also at which stage it is in when it overwinters. It’s all so fascinating and I know I will go on learning as the years roll by.

As a keen photographer, so much of my enjoyment these past few years, whilst learning a little about each butterfly species, has come from capturing images of them in different situations. It’s hard to be original. I don’t just want to take the classic open wing shot. I enjoy the challenge of photographing butterflies in flight. I also love the close-up work, experimenting with my macro lens, being at eye level with my subject. It creates such an intimacy. I feel as though I’m being drawn into their world. I really start to notice the tiny details and beauty that is so often missed. I’m also keen on creating images that capture a feeling or experience. So, sometimes I’ll pull back and include the butterfly’s surroundings to provide context.

This butterfly journey has given me countless days filled with wonderful new experiences.

I’m hoping that writing about my journey might inspire others to do the same. But, more importantly, I hope it helps increase awareness about the sad decline of our UK butterflies. According to the Butterfly Conservation Red List , almost half of all species are either endangered (eg Wall Brown - photo), near threatened or vulnerable. We need more people to care about the future of our butterflies (and other insects) in this country and to help stop the decline in numbers and loss of species.

There’s such a joy that comes with new discoveries and sightings. Firsts are wonderful! But how do you retain that sparkle in your eyes, once you’ve seen each species? The excitement. The thrill. What’s the secret to keeping that all alive year after year? Maybe, it’s simply by appreciating every moment, as it happens. Holding on to the magic. I don’t want to lose that youthful excitement. Hopefully, I never will, as there’s still so much to learn.

In the future, I’m hoping to still occasionally eat my breakfast sitting in a wildflower meadow, starting the day with the butterflies, enjoying it as much as I do now.

Now I’ve seen all the butterflies of Sussex, I’m very content and proud of what I’ve achieved. I don’t want to think about the next challenge or goal just yet. For now, I want to savour this moment and appreciate what I’ve learned, the friends and acquaintances I’ve made and the amazing array of butterflies I’ve seen and photographed. I’m hoping that writing about my journey might inspire others to do the same. But, more importantly, I hope it helps increase awareness about the sad decline of our UK butterflies. According to the Butterfly Conservation Red List , almost half of all species are either endangered (eg Wall Brown - photo), near threatened or vulnerable. We need more people to care about the future of our butterflies (and other insects) in this country and to help stop the decline in numbers and loss of species.

Purple Emperor

Banded Demoiselles

Wed, 07 Jun 2023 07:48:32 GMT

We sit down on the riverbank in the late afternoon sunshine to relax and enjoy a few quiet moments in the warmth. Summer has arrived! I’m so happy and content, having had a wonderful day out. Bob and I have been in our element, photographing dragonflies and damselflies on the water, relishing all the other unexpected surprises that nature had in stall for us today.

The timing of our mindfulness moment isn’t great. The peacefulness and serenity is disturbed. Within seconds, I can hear youthful squeals of excitement as a family approaches. There’s also the unmistakeable sound of a dog splashing in water. Suddenly it appears, from behind a tree, swimming with a long stick in its mouth – a German Shepherd. It promptly scrambles up the bank right beside us, soaked, dripping with water. It’s rather too close for comfort - dangerously close to our cameras. I’m well aware of the inevitable body shake that’s coming. Thank goodness it moves further away from us first. After a few brief polite exchanges, the family pass by and soon their voices fade into the distance. Ah! The peace! It's blissful!

The welcome breeze cools my face as my eyes peruse the river. It's creating gentle ripples in the water. But, nearer the side it's still, shielded by the vegetation. Serene and calm. From the murky depths of the chocolate coloured river, some reeds are growing. Near the surface, where the water is clearer, I can see them gently moving with the current, like floating thick strands of hair. A few blades poke up into the air, swaying gently, bending in the breeze. I feel the calm wash over me as I watch how they move.

Delicately perched on one reed is a gorgeous male Banded Demoiselle with its wings closed together. The metallic green colour of its body shines gloriously in the sun. The band of dark green near the end of its clear wings stands out beautifully too. These damselflies are unmistakable. Stunning.

It's not the only one in view. I can see about a dozen all spread out, resting on different reeds. Some are slightly more metallic blue than green. They're less mature. It’s good to see a healthy population of the Banded Demoiselles here, though a week ago I recall how the river was teeming with them. There had to be well over a hundred flying around. I'd never seen so many before in one short stretch of river. At one time, I even saw five males all resting on a single reed.

The moments of calm, when all the Banded Demoiselles are resting, are interrupted by sudden bursts of movement. It only takes one male to take to the wing and then suddenly, all the others nearby, launch up and join the fray. They're defending their tiny patch of the river. These territorial displays happen frequently. The mass of fluttering banded wings is mesmerising to watch as they all quickly dart around, barely a foot above the water. Then, just as abruptly, they all fly off in different directions to their own favoured reed and settle once more. All seems peaceful again, for a few brief glorious moments.

The males are alert and scoping the scene for females they can mate with. It’s not surprising, since they only live in this adult form for up to two weeks. There isn’t time to waste. Reproduction is the number one priority – for the females too. I see one fly by, fleetingly. The golden green coloured abdomen is distinct. There’s also a trail of males following her in hot pursuit. They quickly disappear out of sight beyond the tall reeds growing at the edge of the river. I don’t see which is the successful male. It looks like it isn’t one of my dozen as they’re all back on their perches once more.

Earlier in the day, I’d seen a few pairs flying in tandem. It sometimes looks like the female is unwillingly being dragged along by the male. His abdomen is attached to her just behind the eyes. It doesn’t look comfortable. It's only when they settle, on a reed or leaf, that she curls under and attaches herself to his abdomen and the mating wheel is created. I recall seeing it several times last weekend. It was my first time for this species, so it was pretty special.

My attention has been so focused on watching the Banded Demoiselles, I scarcely noticed the birds singing around us or any of their activity. Suddenly, a Swallow appears flying low and fast along the river. It takes my breath away as I watch it skim the surface with its beak wide open, right in front of us. In a flash, it’s up and away again. I smile. It’s incredible how they drink water on the move like that. Wonderful! What a treat!

Water is such an amazing thing. Not only is it vital to support life, but the sound and movement of it soothes the soul. So too does the sight of life on and around the river. I feel so at peace when I have the opportunity to connect with nature and feel a part of something much bigger than myself.

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Discovering Butterflies Of Sussex - Part 1

Wed, 31 May 2023 07:38:06 GMT

If you asked me about three years ago how many species of butterfly there are in the UK, I would have guessed maybe a dozen. That was roughly how many species I’d seen, including the common ones like the Speckled Wood and Peacock. But all that changed in the summer of 2020. When a new photography friend of mine talked about Skippers, Fritillaries and Hairstreaks, I scarcely knew what he was talking about. He used the term instar like I should know what that was and I realised I had much to learn.

If you asked me about three years ago how many species of butterfly there are in the UK, I would have guessed maybe a dozen. That was roughly how many species I’d seen, including the common ones like the Speckled Wood (right) and Peacock (below). But all that changed in the summer of 2020. When a new photography friend of mine talked about Skippers, Fritillaries and Hairstreaks, I scarcely knew what he was talking about. He used the term instar like I should know what that was and I realised I had much to learn.

On one of our early outings I saw my first Chalkhill Blue butterfly. I’ll never forget sitting on the ground photographing a group of them resting on manure and how they all suddenly took flight when a woman walked past. The frenzy of activity just a metre above the ground was beautiful. I’d never seen so many butterflies gathered together before. I think I was hooked from that moment on.

It was quite a revelation to discover there are more than 40 different species of butterfly that can be seen in Sussex . The exact number does seem to vary depending on source, which I have to admit has been somewhat confusing. There are migrants, like the Clouded Yellow (photo), that now seem to live their complete life cycle in the county, but not necessarily the whole year. There’s a species present whose origins are questionable and others that are starting to colonise in the area due to climate change.

By the end of 2020, I’d seen eight more new species: a tatty Dark Green Fritillary that had seen better days; a fabulous pink legged Clouded Yellow hiding in the tall grass; a brilliant orange Small Copper seen through the heather; a Wall Brown basking on a chalky footpath; a Long-Tailed Blue in really windy conditions; a brief glimpse of a Purple Hairstreak but with no photo to prove it; a majestic Purple Emperor reigning supreme; and an hour later, my one and only sighting of an impressive White Admiral (photo), up close and personal.

In some ways, it felt as though I was seeing species in totally the wrong order – spotting rarer ones before more common species, like the Long-Tailed Blue (photo). But, maybe that was why my interest and appreciation grew. Plus, I had the added benefit of discovering new places across the county and beyond, not just to see butterflies, but also the other wildlife they play host to.

One of the most exciting moments in my butterfly year was seeing a female Holly Blue egg laying. What luck! I just happened to be walking past at that exact moment. It was a completely new experience for me. Once she had moved on, I eagerly looked for the egg. I could barely see it, even with my glasses on. My camera wasn’t much better either. That was the moment I decided to treat myself to a macro lens, something I’d been thinking about for a while. It was the best thing I bought that year (especially with imminent lockdowns ahead). It opened up a whole new world for me. It was amazing to see insects like never before, noticing the tiny details and appreciating their beauty in new ways.

At the start of 2021, during lockdown, I watched a Sussex Wildlife Trust webinar – Butterflies of Sussex. It was perfect for me! Over the course of eight short videos, presented by the witty and entertaining Michael Blencowe, I began to learn more about the different species that live their complete life cycle within the county – the different habitats, behaviour, sexual dimorphism (Brimstones right) and when and where to find them. Armed with all this new information, I was eager to go in search of species that had eluded me so far and hungry to learn more. The adventure that lay ahead was exciting.

At the start of 2021, during lockdown, I watched a Sussex Wildlife Trust webinar – Butterflies of Sussex. It was perfect for me! Over the course of eight short videos, presented by the witty and entertaining Michael Blencowe, I began to learn more about the different species that live their complete life cycle within the county – the different habitats, behaviour, sexual dimorphism (Brimstones below) and when and where to find them. Armed with all this new information, I was eager to go in search of species that had eluded me so far and hungry to learn more. The adventure that lay ahead was exciting.

It didn’t take long for me to realise what a challenge it would be. For a novice, when you’re out in the field, it’s never quite as easy to identify what you’re seeing. The Large and Small White are a classic example. When they’re flying about, I really struggled to tell the difference in size. It doesn’t help that you get small Large Whites and large Small Whites. What a nightmare! At least, when they’re at rest, I had a better chance. I’d compare the dark corners of the forewings on the upperside and remembered that it’s more grey and longer on the horizontal edge for the Small Whites and much more black and longer on the vertical edge for the Large Whites.

Don’t get me started on the Blues! It’s a minefield! The males with their wings open I could just about manage (Common Blue and Adonis Blue below), but with wings closed and only the underside in view – confusion ensued! There was also the added challenge of distinguishing between the sexes. It was certainly easier when the males and females were together to appreciate the colour differentiation on the underwing. Then, there was the small problem of telling the difference between all the female blues, which are in fact brown, fairly similar and much like the Brown Argus. More often than not, I’d take my photos and worry about ID’ing them later. The internet was an invaluable source of information ( Don't Get The Blues From The Blues - Butterfly Conservation and Species Similarities - UK Butterflies). It’s great having something I can go back to, to remind myself of the subtle differences between sexes and species. Even now! I can’t claim I’ve cracked it, but gradually I’m learning!

Despite the challenges, I’ve had some wonderful moments photographing some of the blue butterflies. I’ll never forget the first time I saw the communal roosting of Common Blues – I didn’t even know that was a thing. I even found three on the same blade of grass. The soft evening light was gorgeous. As for the Adonis Blues, the males take my breath away every time I see the flash of their gorgeous brilliant blue wings. Seeing a number of them flying together is pretty special.

I was yet to see the Small Blue – the smallest of all UK butterflies. So, when June came around, I went to Malling Down specifically to change that. Whilst wondering around the reserve I saw others I’d not seen before – Painted Lady and Small Heath – but, no little blues. I feared another year would go by without me laying eyes on one. On my way home, I consoled myself with another visit to Anchor Bottom to see the Adonis Blues. Then, just as I was leaving, I noticed a tiny little butterfly flying around some tall grass and my heart leapt. Could it be a Small Blue? Quickly, I focused the camera on it. Yay! It was! I couldn’t believe my luck. I was thrilled.

I was yet to see the Small Blue – the smallest of all UK butterflies. So, when June came around I went to Malling Down specifically to change that. Whilst wondering around the reserve I saw others I’d not seen before – Painted Lady and Small Heath – but, no little blues. I feared another year would go by without me laying eyes on one. On my way home, I consoled myself with another visit to Anchor Bottom to see the Adonis Blues. Then, just as I was leaving, I noticed a tiny little butterfly flying around some tall grass and my heart leapt. Could it be a Small Blue? Quickly, I focused the camera on it. Yay! It was! I couldn’t believe my luck. I was thrilled. With some things you never forget your first experience and that was definitely a memorable one. In fact, sightings of a Small Blue always steal my heart.

With some things you never forget your first experience and that was definitely a memorable one. In fact, sightings of a Small Blue always steal my heart.

This journey hasn’t been just about seeing new species of butterfly and learning to identify them. It’s been fabulous being able to witness different behaviour, like territorial skirmishes on the wing between males, a female rejecting the male’s advances, chancing upon mating pairs, females egg laying and even luckier still, finding eggs. I’ve managed this with the Duke of Burgundy butterfly, another small beauty. I was thrilled when I saw a female egg laying multiple times, perching on the edge of the Primrose leaf and tucking her abdomen underneath to deposit an egg or two. I got down really low in the grass to photograph the moment. One thing I’ve learned is to always tuck in my trouser legs and top. The first time I photographed a Duke, I came home with two ticks on me. Yuk! I don’t wish to repeat that experience.

My first Duke sighting was on an organised event with Neil Hulme. Since then, I’ve bumped into him a few times. That’s happened with a handful of other butterfly enthusiasts too. We all keep turning up at the same popular locations. It’s nice seeing familiar faces. Everyone I’ve met has been so friendly and helpful, sharing ID and location tips. Sometimes, others show you what they’ve found, which is kind and a great way to see more when you’re starting out. However, I have to admit, I do like finding things for myself, if I can. It’s much more rewarding. It’s also lovely when it’s quiet, with fewer people around. There’s definitely something wonderful about being out in nature alone. I feel the peacefulness and calm envelop me. It relaxes me. It’s part of the allure that keeps drawing me back.

I enjoy getting up early in the warmer months to visit wildflower meadows and nature reserves. It’s a fabulous time of day. I sit and eat my breakfast watching the first butterflies emerge in the morning sunshine, whilst listening to the birds singing nearby. This kind of mindfulness moments can really lift my spirits. I’ll never forget the joy I felt the first time I saw the morning dew on a roosting butterfly. A bejewelled Small Heath was glistening in the soft low light, waiting for its wings to dry out. Simply magical!

There’s something so enchanting watching the gentle delicate fluttering of wings hovering above the wildflowers, noticing their long proboscis uncurl as they nectar on the flowers, and even simply resting with their wings wide open, showing off their gorgeous colours and patterns. It’s such a beautiful way to start the day. One time, a Skipper landed on the path just near where I sat. I crouched down low with my macro lens to take a few photos. It had pale spots on its upperwings and silver spots underneath. I wasn’t sure if I’d seen this species before. I checked when I was back home and discovered I’d seen my first Silver-spotted Skipper.

I have so many wonderful memories from 2021, but the best one was meeting my future boyfriend, Bob. We’d struck up conversation whilst waiting to see Brown Hairstreaks – a rare and elusive butterfly. I’d never photographed one before and was hopeful of changing that. When a female finally made an appearance, our small group moved over swiftly to where it was perched. Bob was such a gentleman, letting me take my photos first. After that day, just over a week later, we bumped into each other again in a completely different place on the other side of the county. Quite serendipitous! From there, our friendship began.

By the end of the year, I’d discovered and photographed 20 more different species of butterfly (though I didn’t realise it at the time – I wasn’t counting). It dawned on me that there weren’t many more new species in Sussex left for me to see. Just seven. But, all of them fairly scarce in the county. I started to wonder if I might be able to see the remaining ones in 2022. What an achievement that would be! I hadn’t set out with the intention to see all the species in the county, but the prospect of it was exciting. I couldn’t wait for the new year to arrive and to continue my butterfly journey.

Discovering Butterflies of Sussex - Part 2

Ringlet

The Journey Work

Mon, 01 May 2023 16:36:05 GMT

By the middle of 2022, having been coping with the loss of my stepfather and two chronic injuries and all the stress those bring, I’d done quite a bit of reading and tried a few emotional exercises, as outlined in my earlier posts in this series. As a result, I was generally feeling much more positive about life and the direction I was headed in. However, this didn’t translate into reduced pain in either my foot or shoulder. I was less concerned about my foot, as I’d seen a podiatrist and I felt reassured that things would eventually improve, if I kept to my daily stretching regime over the summer. It was my shoulder that felt like the bigger issue. Whilst I could’ve had a quick fix steroid injection, instinctively I knew this would not get to the root of the problem – why my frozen shoulder had flared up in the first place. Plus, I was aware of the same early warning signs that were starting to develop in my left shoulder too.

The next significant part of my emotional journey was as a result of reading The Journey by Brandon Bays – an American author and motivational speaker. It was Caroline Kremer , the Bowen technique practitioner I’d visited, who had mentioned the name to me. I’d never heard of Brandon. Having looked her up online, I watched a few YouTube videos in which she talked about her experience. Her story was fascinating. It wasn’t even recent. She published the book back in 1999. I wondered how I’d never heard of her before. But, sometimes, things come into your life at exactly the point it needs to and I felt compelled to read her book. So, I ordered a copy and when the time was right, I read it – in one day! I couldn’t put it down. This was a few weeks before my stepfather’s memorial.

In The Journey, Brandon wrote about her life as a motivational speaker and how she had to overcome some pretty major challenges in her life. The most notable being a basketball sized tumour that was growing in her uterus and how she managed to cure herself of it without any medical intervention – in six weeks. It sounds impossible – suspect even, to those a little more sceptical. But, bear with me, the theory behind what she achieved is fascinating.

Her premise for attempting to clear herself of her cancer was based on the theory that the cells throughout our body have the capability to hold on to emotional memories. Even though our cells are regenerating all the time – for instance an eye only takes a few days to have all new cells – they do so retaining these memories. In fact, there is a growing body of scientific evidence to support this theory.

I found myself asking, Could it really be possible? I might not understand physiologically or biochemically everything that’s going on within my body to the same degree as a medically trained doctor, but I know the body is made up of cells, even the brain. If memories can be stored in the cells of the brain, why not the cells in other parts of the body?

I’ve heard anecdotal stories about transplant patients who’ve developed tastes for things they didn’t previously like, only to discover the donor had liked those same things. This would suggest that the emotional memory was connected to the cells.

Having read about how inextricably linked the body and mind are, the theory really seemed plausible to me. We know that stress has been linked to many illnesses and diseases. It isn’t a huge leap to consider that it’s entirely possible our negative emotions and memories might also manifest in our bodies in surprising ways. At the very least I was open to the possibility there was truth in this theory. That was all I needed to do…just be open.

Brandon’s discovery was that in order to be happy and healthy we need to clear the negative emotional memories from our past and let go of them. That by delving deep inside yourself and releasing such negative emotions, feelings and experiences, you will find your inner peace, your essence, the core of who you are. Your soul. She shared her own personal journey and trauma that needed to be released and the freedom that followed. It all sounds very spiritual and new age, and for many that might not sit comfortably. All I can recount is my experience and what a profound effect reading her book had on me. Because, as I read her story, it awoke deep emotional feelings and memories for me at very specific moments. I realised I had my own pain to let go of.

What if this is the reason for the inflammation in my shoulder?

In the back of the book, Brandon included details of going through the process for yourself. But, the recommendation is to undertake it with someone who has already been through it. This was a stumbling block. But, I figured, as the book was written over 20 years ago, there were bound to be practitioners in the UK who could help me go through the process. In fact, if there were, surely this in itself was not only merit in the process, but evidence it was successful in helping other people. So, out of curiosity as much as anything else, I went online. Sure enough, I found several people in my local area alone. There was plenty of choice. In the end, I came across Anne Pether , who was also a reflexologist, massage therapist and reiki healer. There was something about her profile that resonated with me, so I reached out to her initially via email and ended up making an appointment. I was both nervous and excited. I didn’t have much to lose, except a bit of time and money. Even though I didn’t know what to expect, I felt sure it would be beneficial in some way.

In the interim, before my appointment, I made a list of all the memories and feelings that had come to the surface whilst I was reading the book. It wasn’t short. There were some minor things as well as a few major things. There were lots of different emotions associated with each memory. There seemed to be no commonality. However, they virtually all involved the various men in my life. Perhaps it was no coincidence at all that the pain in my right arm is the side associated with the masculine. After compiling the list, one by one, I systematically worked my way through each memory. I thought about each situation and used my journal to write about whatever residual feelings there may have been. Some memories didn’t require much work. I felt like I’d let go of a lot of it already. But, by the time I was done, I felt I’d dealt with everything.

The day of the appointment arrived, just over a week after my stepfather’s memorial. All nerves had disappeared and I simply felt calm. Anne was lovely. I felt at ease with her straight away. We chatted naturally and easily from the get-go and very quickly slipped into The Journey Work process as I closed my eyes and I continued to talk, guided by her comments and questions.

The memorial had been an obvious starting point as I recounted the day and the feelings that arose as I spoke about it. When I felt like I’d let go of all the emotions there, something rather unexpected happened. I started to feel dizzy. With my eyes still shut, I instinctively placed my arm on the table beside me, to steady myself and feel grounded. Anne said it was normal. The body was releasing. Healing. The dizziness didn’t last long and soon I just felt a great sense of calm. I visualised myself standing in a calm expanse of water, with only blue sky above and nothing else. It was lovely. Relaxing.

It was great I’d found the calm so quickly, but that wasn’t the end of it. Anne asked me, from this place of calm, if there were any memories surfacing for me. One instantly came to mind. It had been one of the major ones on my list. I remember thinking, Oh! We’re going there are we? With more than a little trepidation, I continued to open up, with absolute honesty, and talk about a trauma from my past, many years ago. It was the first time I’d spoken of it to a complete stranger. It was painful and involved a lot of emotions, and tears. But it was hugely releasing.

The details are perhaps not necessary, as The Journey Work process varies for everyone because each experience is unique and personal. It can be lengthy, as it was for me – just under three hours. To summarise though, after talking through the memory, I imagined sitting around a campfire of love and acceptance. I had the opportunity as the younger me, to express what needed to be said, out loud. In fact, I had a conversation with all the people involved, only I was speaking all the parts – out loud. One aspect, that was quite powerful, was that my present-day self was also at the campfire, with all the knowledge and wisdom I’ve gained in my lifetime, talking to my younger self. At one point, I was visualising the two versions of my self holding hands, looking through the trees towards the sun’s rays that were streaming through. It was quite a beautiful moment. When my younger self was filled with all the tools to help me deal with the situation, I was able to replay the events of the past, only this time the outcome was different. It was hugely empowering.

Ultimately, it was with forgiveness that I could truly, and deeply, let go of the stored pain. Not only for those involved, but my own forgiveness.

By the end of the session the tears of pain and sadness were replaced with happier ones. My eyes were stinging by the end of it all. But, I felt as though a huge weight had been removed from my shoulders. I felt lighter. A memory I’d barely thought much of for years, had been deeply suppressed in my subconscious and I’d had no idea how much it had impacted me. How it had even shaped me as an individual. It was so enlightening. But better still, I noticed the benefits of the process physically too. Not straight away…the body isn’t that quick to heal. But, by the end of the month I suddenly noticed the pain in my right shoulder was gone. The range of motion was still severely limited. But, with time and a little work, I knew that would return. And it has!

On reflection, I realise how writing in my journal really helped me mentally. It allowed me to explore the different memories and emotions that might have been causing me problems at a deeper level. It allowed me to release things from my mind. But, the journal work wasn’t sufficient alone to allow healing at the cellular level. That only happened after going through the Journey Work process. Mentally processing trauma is only one part of the equation. Physical release is necessary too.

I’ve since discovered someone else I know who has been through the same process for completely different reasons, with similar beneficial results. It’s lovely to have found a kindred spirit who understands how powerful the process is. I’m sure it could help many more people too, if they knew about it. Ultimately, that’s why I wanted to share my experience, to help increase awareness.

Now, more than ever, I understand how important it is not to suppress your emotions, especially with traumatic events, as this has the power to manifest itself with health issues later in life. Our health and well-being are in our own hands and it’s great to know there are tools at our disposal to help look after ourselves. The Journey Work was one of the most significant moments of last year for me, but also, simply another stepping stone on my journey of discovery and in understanding how we have the power to heal ourselves.

See first post in this series...

Easter Treats

Tue, 18 Apr 2023 22:25:56 GMT

Wildlife Treats (...and a bit of chocolate!)

It was wonderful to have three glorious sunny and fairly warm days over the Easter bank holiday weekend. Bob and I made the most of it. We went exploring in various different locations across East Sussex on all three days, to see what we could find. We even managed to avoid all the crowds - which was a bonus. Whilst butterflies and snakes were high on the agenda, I was happy just being outside together in nature, enjoying what we love most. I was able to forget about work and the stresses of life and fully embrace what was right in front of me. It's that freedom that is so addictive. Not thinking about the past, nor worrying about the future, but just being present in the moment. Going with the flow! It's one of my new mantras to help me hold on to the calm.

One morning we enjoyed a short stroll along the river, looking for Small Tortoiseshell butterflies. We must have seen about three or more - the first of the year. The first one we spotted was quite flighty, but this second one was enjoying basking in the sunshine. It looks in great condition, having just come out of hiberation. Bob explained that they hibernate quite soon after emerging as an adult butterfly the previous year, and that's why it doesn't look too weathered. It's harder to tell the difference between the sexes of this species, but its behaviour - flying around the nettles - suggested it was more likely to be a female.

It was gorgeous! But, what I REALLY wanted to see on the weekend was the much rarer Large Tortoiseshell. Although it's been extinct in the UK since the 1960s, in the past few years there have been a few sightings in Sussex and I was eager to see my first one.

From our location by the river where we'd seen the Small Tortoiseshells, there was a lovely view across the fields towards the South Downs. I love that hoze you often see in the distance, engulfing the trees and making everything look more ghostly.

As we began our slow amble back towards the car, Bob spotted a Swallow flying above us - another first of the year. Having just returned from overwintering in Africa, I'm amazed by the long distances these birds fly every year. A Song Thrush, which had welcomed us upon our arrival, was still singing loudly by the time we were about to leave. I could hear it was close, but I couldn't see it! Eager to see my first one of the year, I climbed over a style and ventured to the other side of the trees where it was hiding. Sadly, still no joy! It flew deep into another tree nearby!

We decided to wander a little further along the path we were now on, being coaxed along by the sight of a Comma, Peacock and a Dark-edged Bee-fly. The extra jaunt was fairly uneventful, but if we hadn't done that, we probably would have missed seeing two Sparrowhawks circling high above. They were a little distance away, so it was pointless taking any photos. I can't take any credit for recognising that's what they were! One of these days I'll be able to recognise their flight and behaviour, but for now I'll rely on Bob to be my own personal tour guide. Lucky me!

All weekend I kept seeing Dark-edged Bee-flies. There were lots about. I have to say, these insects are one of my favourite to photograph, other than butterflies and moths. They are quite distinct because of their long pointy proboscis and hovering flight. The ones we saw were mostly nectaring on the Lesser Celandine, but I did spot a few enjoying the Dandelion flowers.

One afternoon, we were enjoying a relaxing break sitting beside a pond on a sandy bank. It was fairly quiet with no other people in sight and only a few creatures making their presence known. A Wren was foraging along the water's edge and then popped up onto a branch and began to sing. A Moorhen was out on the water, also skirting the edge of the pond. Beside us, I noticed more Bee-flies and I realised they were females laying their eggs. They do this by flicking their abdomen towards the burrows or nests of solitary bees, releasing one egg each time. I took a few photos of one in action and only later did I notice her rather odd looking rear! I discovered it's her sand chamber and that they collect sand or gravel to coat the eggs, which is believed to be for protection, camouflage and to assist with depositing of the eggs. I love learning little facts like these. There's always something new to learn.

It was lovely to hear the sound of Chiffchaffs calling throughout the weekend. But, having a nice clear view of one to photograph was not so easy. They always seemed to be either out of sight completely, too far away, or in a position where the sun was behind them. But, one time I got lucky. We were on the South Downs hoping to see a Large Tortoiseshell, which had been seen a few days before. Whilst waiting around, a Chiffchaff perched itself on a young tree not far from us and sang its little heart out. It was lovely! I was thrilled. It certainly helped lift my spirits since we didn't see the Large Tortoiseshell.

We returned to the same area later that day, but still no joy with seeing the butterfly. However, it was very peaceful sitting down on the bank in the late afternoon light waiting once more, and hoping. A Robin periodically broke the silence, singing nearby, I spotted a Stonechat perching on the top of the scrub just beyond it and also a Green Woodpecker made an apperance. I'm sure it was laughing at us!

We were on the South Downs hoping to see a Large Tortoiseshell, which had been seen a few days before. Whilst waiting around, a Chiffchaff perched itself on a young tree not far from us and sang its little heart out. It was lovely! I was thrilled. It certainly helped lift my spirits since we didn't see the Large Tortoiseshell.

The only thing that ruined the peaceful day, was earlier when we heard the whirr of an engine, either a powered paraglider or microlight. It was way too close to the edge of the cliffs at Beachy Head. No doubt they were trying to impress the people walking along the top with a few fancy manoeuvres. But, in the process, they were disturbing the nesting seabirds who were squarking defensively. It's sad that some people just don't think, or simply don't care!

I love this time of year, when the Wood Anemones can be seen in and around the woodlands. Such a pretty little white flower, growing close to the ground - in some places, really carpeting it beautifully. There was also the promise of more to come, seeing the lush green leaves of the Bluebells, which will soon steal the limelight.

We had a lovely jaunt around Rowland Wood and Park Corner Heath - the only Butterfly Conservation nature reserve in Sussex. Right at the start of our walk, I spotted a Goldcrest on the trees - always a welcome sight. Soon after, it was the Bristones that caught our attention (we saw a lot all weekend). Usually, it's the males you see flying about with their beautiful buttery yellow coloured wings. They're constantly in search of females to mate with and we saw plenty on our walk. But, we were also lucky enough to spot a few females flying around too. They have a more subtle pale green colouration in the wings. One female landed just long enough for me to take a few photos, but was off again in a flash. Perhaps in a rush to find somewhere to lay her eggs. The males emerge first, so they can mate as soon as the females emerge. This means, whenever you see a female, it's highly likely she's already mated.

In terms of butterflies, we also saw something white flying around. It flew quickly up one ride, then back down again. We kept following it, but failing to keep up. We must have looked quite comical, walking back and forth. We wanted it to land so we could identify which species it was. Bob thought it was a Green-Veined White - another first sighting of the year, but he wanted to be absolutely sure. Finally, it settled for about 2 seconds and I managed to take a quick snap of the upperwings. Not really one worth keeping, but it allowed us to ID the butterfly. Using my reference book back home, I could see the identifying features. The faint veins could be seen on the top side of the wings and unlike the Small White, in the corner of the forewing were tiny grey triangles at the fringes. With no black spots or other markings, it was clearly a first brood Male Green-Veined White. There's a good chance I might actually remember this for next time.

Using my reference book back home, I could see the identifying features. The faint veins could be seen on the top side of the wings and unlike the Small White, in the corner of the forewing were tiny grey triangles at the fringes. With no black spots or other markings, it was clearly a first brood Male Green-Veined White. There's a good chance I might actually remember this for next time.

In another section, along an open ride, we saw this gorgeous hairy caterpillar crawling across the path. What amazing red legs it has! Bob thought it might have been a Tiger moth caterpillar and didn't trust the app that identified it as something else. So he was rather chuffed with himself, when he discovered his hunch had been right. It was a Cream-spot Tiger moth caterpillar.

We only happened to spot it, because we were looking down at the Green Tiger Beetles that were jumping off the path, out of our way, as we approached. I'd never seen so many before.

The Green Tiger Beetles didn't rest for long. It's not surprising really. It's a matter of survival for all these small creatures. Trying to take photographs of the beetles was tricky...but fun. I was rather glad to discover at least one of them was in focus and showing off their amazing colouration in the sunshine. A little further along, I spotted three together, so I quickly bent down to take a photo. Just as I did, one jumped onto the back of another and then fairly promptly flew off. That's how quick mating can occur in the nature. How lucky I was to capture the moment, when it was so fleeting.

One of the highlights of the weekend was seeing five Adders. Of this, two were Black Adders - the melanistic form. They were basking in the sun, often hiding underneath the Gorse bushes. Since they detect vibrations on the ground, they can usually hear people approaching and disappear from sight, slithering away quickly. So, it required a light tread of feet, as we carefully perused the bushes. Bob found the first two, but eager to spot one for myself, I was happy I found the third one. There's definitely more of a thrill when you find something for yourself.

The wildlife surprises weren't only out in the countryside or in more remote areas. A Hedgehog appeared in Bob's garden late one evening and I was so excited. It was gorgeous! I've hardly ever seen a live Hedgehog. I don't have a garden where I live. The only time I've seen one was at the British Wildlife Centre.

In the past, I've recorded a few on my camera trap, when I've set it up in other people's gardens. But, I never saw the Hedgehog in the flesh. We'd already set the camera trap up in Bob's garden, so the next morning we were keen to see what video footage it had captured. Sure enough, Henrietta - as we've called her - was seen foraging around. However, there were some other visitors in the night as well. The neighbours cat was less pleasing to see as it eats the food left out for the Hedgehog. But, it was lovely to see a Fox, which came right up to the camera and had a good sniff around. Bob was particularly surprised to see it, since it's not clear how it actually managed to get into the garden. I was also really happy to see a Wood Mouse leaping and bounding around, underneath the bird feeder. It was very entertaining to watch.

With all the sunshine we had over the weekend, there was a lot of butterfly activity, everywhere we went. But, the highlight was our walk around Abbotts Wood on the Friday. I'd suggested to Bob that we avoid going to Beachy Head that day, even though a Large Tortoiseshell had been seen there. I was keen to find our own. It would be more of a challenge, but more fun. Equally, I wanted to avoid the busy places. The Brimstones were the first butterflies we saw, followed soon after by plenty of Peacocks and Commas. We even saw a Small White briefly whilst we were eating our lunch.

We walked around for quite some time, enjoying ourselves. We were very chilled out, but by mid-afternoon we hadn't seen any Large Tortoiseshells. So, we decided to try somewhere else and started to retrace our steps and head back towards the car. It was a bit overcast by now, but, we still ambled slowly keeping an eye open for whatever we saw. When we reached the last ride near the edge of the woods, the sun suddenly reappeared and the butterflies were seen flying again. A beautiful Comma landed on a fabulous tree stump covered in moss and lichen and I stopped to take a photo. Almost immediately after the Comma flew off, a Peacock landed on another tree stump virtually next to it, looking gorgeous against the rough bark of the tree.

I turned to Bob and said, "All we need now is for the Large Tortoiseshell to land right here." Of course, one didn't appear! But I was determined to stay positive, hoping we'd still see one.

We continued to amble along the path. I spotted a Brimstone a little further away, close to the wood and suddenly a Buzzard flew off, hearing us approach. I continued looking over that way, when Bob suddenly sounded excited. There was a butterfly basking on the tree trunk much closer to us. I was looking right past it! Sure enough, it was a Large Tortoiseshell. YAY! What luck! I quickly took a few snaps, in case it flew off straight away, whilst Bob was pfaffing around with his camera. He missed the opportunity to photograph it on the tree trunk, but thankfully, it landed nearby on a gnarled bit of wood. It looked stunning, with its wings beautifully displayed wide open. Unmistakable! Fabulous! But not as big as I was expecting.

We both captured a few photos. It then flew up again and landed on the bank. This allowed us to get closer and take some photos of its underwing too. It felt like such a privilege to have more than a fleeting sight of one and to take quite a few photos. Annoyingly, I discovered at the worst possible moment that I'd mistakenly picked up my wide angle lens instead of my macro one. However, I at least took a few wide angle shots to show the context of where we saw it, which I liked.

After five minutes, it was up, off and away and we didn't see it again. We waited around quite a while to see if it would return, but to no avail.

I turned to Bob and said, "All we need now is for the Large Tortoiseshell to land right here." Of course, one didn't appear! But I was determined to stay positive, hoping we'd still see one.

After five minutes, it was up, off and away and we didn't see it again. We waited around quite a while to see if it would return, but to no avail.

Whilst Bob was distracted on his phone, busy contacting a few of his butterfly mates, a Roe Deer suddenly appeared out of the woods and was running down the ride towards us, about 50m away. It abruptly stopped in its tracks when it noticed us, and before I had a chance to focus with my camera, it darted off behind the trees and was gone again. Not long after, a dog ran across the path in hot pursuit and I realised why the deer was on the run in the first place. There was no sign of an owner. Poor deer being tormented like that, though I have no doubt the dog wasn't able to keep up with it!

Before the day was over, I enjoyed a short little stroll along one of the woodland paths, weaving through the trees. In a few weeks time it will be awash with Bluebells and will look gorgeous. There's so much more to look forward to in spring. Whilst enjoying the stillness and quiet, I spotted a Long Tailed Tit in a tree nearby with what looked like some nest material in its mouth. Beyond it, a Treecreeper appeared to be working its way up the tree looking for instects to eat. I also saw a Great Spotted Woodpecker quite low down, but it flew higher when it heard me coming. It was lovely to enjoy a few more little delights before the day was over.

For me, it really was a Good Friday!

We celebrated that evening with some bubbly. You see, it wasn't just that we saw a really rare butterfly. I was also celebrating because I reached a milestone. I'd finally seen all the butterflies that live their complete life cycle in Sussex - including the few unofficial ones, like the Large Tortoiseshell. I thought I was going to complete the task last summer, when I saw my first Grayling butterfly (there's a blog about that day). But, about a week before that achievement, I heard there was a sighting of some recently emerged Large Tortoiseshells. It rather dampened the celebration of seeing the Grayling. I was disappointed I'd have to wait until this year for the opportunity to see the Large Tortoieshell and complete the quest. There was another reason to celebrate on Good Friday. Bob and I first met when I was on this butterfly journey - the day I saw my first Brown Hairstreak. He was with me the day I saw the Grayling and he was keen to be there again when I saw my first Large Tortoiseshell. Now I have, I'm thrilled. But even better, I have someone to share the joy with.

I feel another blog coming on! Soon, I'd like to share my journey about discovering the butterflies of Sussex. But for now, I'm going to munch on some chocolate and look back on this Easter weekend with extra special fondness.

The Bird Feeder Show

Sun, 02 Apr 2023 16:05:01 GMT

SWT Woods Mill

There’s a hint of spring around the nature reserve, with Daffodils already past their best, Wood Anemones carpeting the woodland floor and the promise of Bluebells yet to come. I can hear the soft hum of the bees buzzing around a beautiful row of Blackthorn trees awash with their pretty white flowers. Buds and catkins can be seen on the deciduous trees, and plenty of lichen decorate the branches and trunks, but the leaves are yet to appear. We didn’t arrive early enough to see any butterflies on the wing, though I’m sure the afternoon sunshine and warmth would have been enough to entice a few.

It’s wonderful hearing all the birds singing as we walk around. The recognisable trill of the Wren conjures up fond memories from my previous visits. It’s as if I’m being welcomed back by friends. I’ve been away too long. Life has been busy. Now, I can slow down and breathe deeply, inhaling the fresh air. I can just feel myself relaxing as we slowly amble through the reserve. It’s so good to be walking along the familiar paths once again. The calm of nature is so alluring.At the start of September, I returned to Boat of Garten in Scotland, where I’d visited back in March. This time I was on my own and staying in different accommodation – a lovely comfortable, warm chalet at the holiday park. I enjoyed the familiarity of the location, but mostly made a point of exploring new places and having different experiences.

After our walk, with little tempting my camera into action, we decide to rest a while in the hide that overlooks the bird feeders. Maybe there’ll be more activity here! We slide along the wooden bench and sit next to a stranger already poised with his camera facing the feeders. Soon, I’m doing the same, excited about what I’ll see. It’s like we’re sitting in the front row at a theatre about to watch a show, only I realise I’ve missed the start, as birds are already coming and going frequently. It’s the last frenzy to feed as the day draws to a close. Much of the scene in front of me is cloaked in shade, at the edge of the woodland. Only small shafts of light still manage to penetrate through the trees. Ever so slowly, these golden pathways change as the sun continually lowers. Even in these last hours of light, there’s much to enjoy.

I’ve photographed the Great Tits many times before. I enjoy watching them, but only when they perch in a picturesque spot do I bother to capture the moment. As weird as it sounds, I think my lack of love for them has something to do with their appearance. They look so harsh and stern with their black head and belly stripe. I chastise myself. I know I should love and appreciate all the birds!

The Great Tits and Blue Tits are dominating the show. They fly to a perch in close proximity to the feeders, glancing all around to check the coast is clear. Then swiftly, they fly in and out, grabbing something to eat and disappearing into the trees in a heartbeat. Sometimes they loiter, when it’s quieter and feels safe. Other times, they scarper, as if threatened by something dangerous nearby. I’ve photographed the Great Tits many times before. I enjoy watching them, but only when they perch in a picturesque spot do I bother to capture the moment. As weird as it sounds, I think my lack of love for them has something to do with their appearance. They look so harsh and stern with their black head and belly stripe. I chastise myself. I know I should love and appreciate all the birds!

Now, the Blue Tits on the other hand, I love. Their gorgeous blue and pale yellow colouration and feisty character warms my heart. In a way, they’re like the underdogs when it comes to the hierarchy of the bird feeder. But today they’re faring well. I was hoping to capture a shot of one perched on a branch in the last of the sunlight, rather than on the feeder, but I kept missing them. They’re so quick. The opportunities are fleeting. One time, I stayed focused on one spot in anticipation of a Blue Tit landing there, and for ages none did. I waited and waited. I started thinking, I’m never going to get the shot I want! Briefly, my attention was diverted to a Blue Tit in another good spot. I quickly shifted my focus and just then, it flew to where I had been focused on. Damn! I missed my moment!

It was lovely to see some of my other favourite birds frequenting the area. Early on, a Nuthutch was feeding – a gorgeous masked bandit – but, it didn’t stay long and never returned. A few Long Tailed Tits came to join the show early and again later on. One very kindly perched long enough for me to grab a shot of it looking cute and fluffy. I even took one on the round bird feeder. I particularly liked the way its distinct shape was slightly silhouetted with the bright light shining on the vegetation in the background.

Surprisingly, skirting the main stage and only hiding in the wings, there was a male Blackbird. I expected it to wade in and at least collect some seeds on the ground, which had fallen from the feeders above. A Robin did exactly that, but didn’t linger. A Grey Squirrel was also skulking around, a little uncharacteristically. We thought it might have been injured, as it didn’t move as deftly as expected. It lacked a spring in its step and the confidence I’ve seen in others. It crept up tentatively, and fed from the ground, before sloping off again.

There were two species that took centre stage on the ground. It started with the Reed Buntings. Not a species I’ve seen before at feeders. The first one looked a little shabby, as if it had forgotten to put on its best feathers for the occasion. Moulting, it wasn’t quite in its full breeding plumage yet. However, it was joined by a much more handsome fellow who was sure to attract the attention of the females soon. The two of them enjoyed a good feast, but they kept to the shaded spots virtually the whole time, often choosing to stand with their back to me. I kept willing them into the shaft of light on the ground, so I could see their eyes and beak. Of course, I didn’t want any of the vegetation to get in the way either or for it to be distracting. Is that so much to ask? I chuckle to myself. Sometimes the quest for photographic perfection means you miss the beauty in the present moment.

The star of the show was an unexpected interloper – not even a bird. A gorgeous little Bank Vole stole my heart for the hour. There were actually two of them. Though we only saw them both at the same time very briefly. I think they sniffed each other and then one scarpered. The Blue Tits may have been quick, dashing in and out of the scene, but the vole was lightning fast. It hid in a clump of tall grass. Every now and then it poked its head out. Then in a flash, it grabbed a seed and retreated. Its very survival depends upon its speed, so it was no wonder it was hard to capture a photo. Only when the coast was clear, did it loiter for more than a few seconds. I was so grateful for the opportunity to take a few lovely photos, especially when the vole was kind enough to pose in the light for me too.

There were two species that took centre stage on the ground. It started with the Reed Buntings. The first one looked a little shabby, as if it had forgotten to put on its best feathers for the occasion. Moulting, it wasn’t quite in its full breeding plumage yet. However, it was joined by a much more handsome fellow. The two of them enjoyed a good feast, but they kept to the shaded spots virtually the whole time, often choosing to stand with their back to me. I kept willing them into the shaft of light on the ground, so I could see their eyes and beak. Of course, I didn’t want any of the vegetation to get in the way either or for it to be distracting. Is that so much to ask? I chuckle to myself. Sometimes the quest for photographic perfection means you miss the beauty in the present moment.

The star of the show was an unexpected interloper – a gorgeous little Bank Vole stole my heart for the hour. There were actually two of them. Though we only saw them both at the same time very briefly. I think they sniffed each other and then one scarpered. The Blue Tits may have been quick, dashing in and out of the scene, but the vole was lightning fast. It hid in a clump of tall grass. Every now and then it poked its head out. Then in a flash, it grabbed a seed and retreated. Its very survival depends upon its speed, so it was no wonder it was hard to capture a photo. Only when the coast was clear, did it loiter for more than a few seconds. I was so grateful for the opportunity to take a few lovely photos, especially when the vole was kind enough to pose in the light for me too.

I could have watched the Bank Vole for hours. But, it was growing colder by the second as evening approached. We were leaving before the show was over, but felt we’d enjoyed enough of the main event to be ready to depart. There was no big grand finale, but just before we left, we took one last look at the stage and saw a female Mallard hoovering up the leftover seeds.

It was a wonderful way to spend an hour. Nature is the gift that keeps giving!

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Snowing In The Alps

Wed, 08 Mar 2023 18:18:36 GMT

From the warmth of my apartment I’m watching the snow falling outside. I’m sitting on a chair looking out of the window, mesmerised by the simplicity and beauty of the moment. I’m in a calm relaxed meditative state, with my feet planted on the ground and my back supported by the chair. My breathing has slowed right down. There are a few areas of tension in my body, so I tense the muscles in those areas, then with a quick release I relax them whilst simultaneously exhaling softly. It helps to release the tension deep inside. I repeat this a few times.

My hands are relaxed on my legs and I simply observe the snow. I love the white stuff. It makes me smile. I feel almost tearful. I don’t even know why. Is it that release of tension? Is it just the happiness I feel in this moment?

The thick grey clouds prevent me from seeing far down the valley. The mountainside I can see from my window is visible, all the way to the top, though the jagged peak is far from clear. Just yesterday morning the ground was bare and brown, an expanse of exposed rocks and grass. But now, a thin veil of snow covers the slope. I’m sure it won’t be long before it’s a dense blanket. The green fir trees on the mountain now have a dusting of snow on their branches. The scene before me is slowly transforming into the winter wonderland I love so much.

The snow continues to fall. At first, it’s gently downwards. Then the wind changes direction and pushes the snow horizontally towards my balcony. Beautiful unique flakes of snow gently landing on the ledge. It feels like an invitation from nature to step into another world. I leave the warmth of the apartment briefly and brave the cold air that awaits me. It’s invigorating. It’s so fresh. I reach out my arm and let the snowflakes land in my palm. Softly, they fall. Ever so light. I can’t even feel them. Within seconds each snowflake melts away and disappears. A brief moment of delight, locked away in my memory.

I retreat back into the warmth once more. There’s another change in wind direction. Now the snow falls downwards again. Some flakes fall faster than others. There are ones that seem to be taking a more direct route to the ground, but other lighter ones gently descend, wafting a little from side to side. Beautiful. A gift from the skies. I feel a lightness inside me as I continue to watch the snowfall. I’m enjoying a moment of effortless being and noticing the benefit of this mindfulness moment.

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Alpine Stream

Sun, 05 Mar 2023 17:54:57 GMT

I couldn’t ask for a better day – a cloudless azure sky, only a slight cool breeze caressing my skin and the sun shining down on this beautiful white wintery scene high up in the French Alps. I can feel the warmth of the sun on my face. The fresh mountain air fills my lungs and I smile. It’s so good to be here again.

The lake behind me is frozen and hidden beneath the snow that covers the whole valley floor. In contrast, the green fir trees stand out on the slopes around me, uncovered by the white stuff. Evidently, it hasn’t snowed a great deal recently and the sun has melted much of it away.

I’m sitting on a rock beside a stream and I can see the sun glistening on the water like diamonds sparkling brilliantly. The sound of the water is so relaxing as it gently moves down stream. I feel the calm wash over me, that lovely familiar feeling as I let all thoughts drift away and I remain fully present in the moment. Small clusters of foam bubbles swirl and dance on the surface as they navigate past a rock that lies in their way. Just to the left, below the surface, reddish coloured roots of something growing in the stream protrude outwards, gently moving slightly as the flow of water glides by. Beside me, the snow has melted from the riverside slightly, exposing flattened brown grass, revealing a fragment of the world that lies beneath the snow.

On the other side of the stream the snow meets the water and I notice a thin shelf of ice seemingly hovering over the edge, not quite dipping into the water. Young bare trees poke out of their temporary white blanket. I spot animal footprints trailing across the snow. My eyes follow their path up the mountain until they disappear.

I’m sitting quietly, sipping hot chocolate, so content I don’t want to leave. I let the seconds and minutes pass by in stillness, feeling relaxed and happy. I barely notice any of the other people walking around, also taking in the tranquil scene. There aren’t many. There’s so much space here.

Reluctantly, I leave, grateful for the opportunity to appreciate the beauty around me and to relax for a short while, breathing it all in.

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Last Light Along The River

Sun, 19 Feb 2023 11:47:10 GMT

We’d enjoyed a lovely late afternoon stroll along the River Ouse on a fairly sunny warm winter’s day. We’d been busy chatting, but all the while keeping an eye open for Short Eared Owls flying about. Sadly, it wasn’t to be today. On the return leg, we were more hopeful to see a Barn Owl. It seemed more likely as the day was drawing to a close and the sun was lowering ever closer towards the hills of the South Downs. Soon it would disappear from sight altogether, taking with it the gorgeous golden glow that illuminated the tops of the tall reeds and bathed the bare wintry trees. It’s such a beautiful time of day. It was so lovely having the opportunity to notice everything around us.

We dropped down off the bank onto lower ground and stopped talking, standing still for a while. Our eyes constantly surveyed all around us, ever hopeful Barnie would appear. Occasionally, the binoculars were lifted to see into the distance further, but still it was being elusive.

The sounds of human life were a distant hum, but ever present. I saw a bird fly down into the reeds to roost, just in front of me. I noticed the absence of twittering birds as the light was dimming and darkness was descending. Instead, I could hear the wind in my ear when I turned my head slightly. I pulled down my hat some more. The cold was starting to creep in, despite my layers. But the stillness, the calm, the peace, it kept me there for longer, enjoying the moment.

High in the sky, the entrails of a plane long gone to some far-off place, were breaking up into puffy fragments, still aglow from the last light – a beautiful soft pink set against an otherwise cloudless darkening blue sky. I like to capture these abstract moments. It’s the simple things that can please so much. It didn’t really bother me that much that we didn’t see the owls. There’d be plenty more opportunities ahead. You can’t be lucky every time. If wildlife watching were easy, the rewards would probably not seem so worthwhile. There was plenty to be happy about. We walked the last stretch of the riverbank holding hands, having enjoyed a wonderful afternoon together. These are the moments to treasure.

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Dawn to Dusk

Tue, 31 Jan 2023 21:47:30 GMT

On A Sunny Winter's Day

I was pretty fed up of so many dull, wet and windy days in January. I’d not been out with my camera hardly at all. So, when I saw that one Friday the whole day would be gloriously sunny, I planned to make the most of it. I couldn’t resist the opportunity to spend as much time as possible outdoors with my camera. I was definitely in need of a good nature fix. Even better, Bob was able to join me too. It was our first full day out in nature together from dawn to dusk.

Our outing began at Burton Mill Pond. Overlooking the water, we sat on our folding stools, wrapped up in winter coats and all the extra layers needed to protect us from the cold. It was so peaceful as we watched the sun gradually rise above the trees. I never tire of seeing the beautiful golden glow in the early morning light. It’s one of the best ways to start the day, especially when you’ve brought your breakfast along, a hot drink and someone special to share it with.

There was such a feeling of calm as we noticed the wildlife activity around the pond. A Grey Heron flew out of the reeds, relocating to the far side where the water was coated in ice – that side doesn’t see much of the sun during the winter months. Not far from the heron, we also saw a Sparrowhawk flying into the trees. Overhead, a Common Buzzard was being mobbed by a few Carrion Crows. Ignoring them, it settled in a tree and eventually the crows flew off. Out on the water there were Tufted Ducks, Pochard, Teal, Mallards and Little Grebes milling about and diving for food. Sadly, any hopes of seeing a Kingfisher fly-by or a Great Crested Grebe glide across the water were unfortunately dashed.

Just behind where we sat, I noticed a male Blackbird had flown down to the base of the hedge. He jumped up and down repeatedly a few times to reach some berries. It looked quite comical. Higher above Blue Tits were also on the hunt for food, flitting about from branch to branch. I didn’t get my camera out until one flew down to the reeds nearer to us.

It was a lovely start to our day. There was just one more treat for us before we left. Bob spotted a Goldcrest weaving in and out of the hedgerow by the car park. It seemed very unconcerned by me snapping away and more interested in whatever food it could find. It was probably my best ever encounter with a Goldcrest, so I was very happy by the time we left.

On our way to the Arundel Wetland Centre (WWT) we had a brief stop half way up the Bury hill. There were great views across to Amberley Brooks, where the land was submerged by water after all the rain we’ve had.

We received a warm welcome at Arundel, not only from the staff, but also from a Robin that perched on a fence post. There wasn’t a great deal to see at the centre, since most of the ponds were frozen over, but we still enjoyed our mooch around. In fact, as we walked along the boardwalk, it was amazing to see what looked like layers of air bubbles in the ice.

A pair of Chiffchaffs were flitting about at the edge of a pond near the Sand Martin Hide and we had a very brief glimpse later of a Water Rail as it crossed a track and then disappeared into the reeds. The usual assortment of woodland birds were loitering near the bird feeders along with two rats that were underneath, hoovering up the seeds that dropped to the ground.

Surprisingly, despite the frozen conditions, the boat trips was still operating. A member of staff had been out earlier to break up the ice using the boat, which created a channel for it to slowly glide through. The ride wasn’t as peaceful as usual, as the boat kept bumping into the ice, and in some places it was already starting to reform. We didn’t see anything of note until right at the end when a female Kestrel landed on top of a small tree. She had her back to us, which meant I could fully appreciate the pattern on her lovely feathers. I willed her to turn her head. When she briefly obliged me, I was very grateful.

Dancing on Ice was our lunchtime entertainment. Half a dozen Canada Geese came in to land on a frozen pond. They slipped and slid along the icy surface trying to keep their balance. Some managed better than others. One even broke through a thin bit of ice and struggled to get back out of the cold water. Eventually it did, and they all waddled away across the pond.

The last part of the day was spent up on the South Downs not far from Arundel. After parking the car, we wandered along the road and spotted a lovely row of Snowdrops shining brightly in the sunshine – my first of the year. There were no Redwings feeding on the berries in the trees nearby where there had been before, on our last visit. But on this occasion, our focus was mostly on larger birds of prey. Admittedly, early on, we did stop to enjoy watching a couple of Brown Hares on the far side of a field. I can never resist them, though they were too far away for photos. I love how they lay low, looking just like clumps of mud. Many walkers probably pass by without even noticing the hares are there.

As we approached a field margin where I normally look for hares, we noticed a photographer fixing his gaze and camera on something. We stopped a little distance away. Lifting up my binoculars, I expected to see a hare, but it was a Short Eared Owl sitting in the sunshine with its eyes closed. Fabulous! We hadn’t stopped for long, when we heard a heavy vehicle driving up the lane. I pointed my camera at the owl, just in case it flew off. But, as the noisy vehicle rattled past, the owl simply opened its eyes, looking fairly unimpressed with the disturbance, but didn’t budge. It seemed well settled. In fact, twice more vehicles went by, but it remained motionless.

Gradually, we edged further along the path looking for gaps in the hedge to get a better and closer view of it. We kept watching for a while, wondering if it would take off and start hunting. Suddenly, Bob called out quietly, ‘Hen Harrier’. He was watching some birds flying just above the field on the brow of the hill. I quickly captured a few frames before it disappeared out of sight. Looking at the images straight away, I could see the white band at the top of the tail and was able to confirm it was a Ringtail Hen Harrier – either a female or juvenile (in winter, you can’t distinguish between them). There was much excitement as they’re a rare sight in these parts.

Not long after, it was the turn of a Red Kite to capture our attention. It came in to land on a recently cut hedge, separating two fields. Quietly, we walked along the path hoping to get a better view of it. But, by the time we found a gap in the hedge, it had flown off. Oh well! Such is life! Sometimes you only have brief glimpses of wildlife at a distance. I guess that’s why we appreciate it so much when we’re lucky enough to see something up close and personal.

After a while of watching the Short Eared Owl doing not very much at all, we started to deliberate whether we should continue to wait for something to happen, or carry on in the hope of seeing more activity further into the Downs. It’s always a tough choice. However, we were both in agreement, we wanted to continue our walk and enjoy that, even if we saw nothing else. So, we moved on. Not long after, it was the turn of a Red Kite to capture our attention. It came in to land on a recently cut hedge, separating two fields. Quietly, we walked along the path hoping to get a better view of it. But, by the time we found a gap in the hedge, it had flown off. Oh well! Such is life! Sometimes you only have brief glimpses of wildlife at a distance. I guess that’s why we appreciate it so much when we’re lucky enough to see something up close and personal.

Further along the path we came across two small groups of people, also hoping to see some owls. It was the busiest I’d seen it for quite a while. We stopped to chat to someone I recognised, but we didn’t linger long. Instead, we headed up the hill so we had our own space, to enjoy the peace and quiet. It was a lovely vantage point overlooking the fields and valley. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky. It was a perfect winter afternoon. With next to no wind either, I was still very hopeful we would see some owl activity.

To our right we spotted almost half a dozen hares in a large field. Just below us on the hill a Kestrel was seen flying about and overhead, a few Red Kites were also on the prowl for food. But, it was the Barn Owl we were really hoping to see and hopefully more glimpses of Short Eared Owls too, on the wing. Patiently, we waited, sipping hot drinks and eating snacks. Every now and then we’d look through our bins and peruse the fields, but there was no sign of any owls. Time peacefully and calmly slipped away. The sun was slowly edging towards the horizon and with it went the warmth.

Suddenly, out of the corner of my eye, I caught a flash of white on the far side of the field closest to us. I knew in an instant it was the barnie, even though it had dipped out of sight. It was the same place I’d seen it a few days before on my last visit. Both of us fixed our eyes on the corner of the field where it had disappeared. We waited. And waited. The seconds turned to minutes. Then suddenly, up it flew up again. Beautiful! It’s such an elegant bird. Silently, and with a seemingly effortless flap of its wings, it glided above the line of tall grasses. It was wonderful having the opportunity to see if fly across in front of us a little lower down the slope. It would swoop around quickly to change direction and every now and then we were treated to that special moment when it hovers in the air before it dives down. With the last of the evening light shining on its wings, it was a beautiful moment.

The barnie headed down into the valley and started to hunt down there. Most of the photographers we’d passed earlier had already left as soon as the valley was cast in shadow. But a few hardy ones were rewarded with some lovely views I’m sure. Plus, not one, but two Short Eared Owls appeared down the bottom. They never ventured particularly high up the hill, but they were still a joy for us to watch nonetheless, through the bins. There’s good hunting ground in the whole area for the owls, so they can easily and quickly spread out. It’s pot luck whether you happen to be in the right place at the right time!

After the sun had disappeared, the good light was gone and we didn’t bother to take any more photos. We simply enjoyed watching the owls some more before it was time for us to head off. What a fabulous day, made all the more special for me as I was able to share it with Bob. We were both in our element, spending the whole day immersed in nature and watching the wildlife. It’s so wonderful to finally have someone to share it with that loves the outdoors as much as me! Hopefully, there'll be many more days like it to come!

Visualisation And Thinking Positively

Thu, 22 Dec 2022 11:28:01 GMT

It feels appropriate to be writing this blog exactly a year after my stepdad passed away. I wanted to write about visualisation and how it helped me in the lead up to his memorial. My mum had asked me to read a poem on the day and I wanted to be sure I could deliver it without getting emotional. In preparation, it wasn’t enough to just read the poem over and over daily for about a week. I had to visualise myself reading it inside the church on the day. I imagined standing at the lectern in front of the rows of people, all dressed in an array of colour and not the usual drab black. I made a point of imagining myself reading the poem slowly and calmly, with confidence and composure. Every day I practiced and went through this same visualisation.

During the spring, I’d read several self-help books and in the week leading up to my stepdad’s memorial I finished another, ‘The Secret’ by Rhonda Byrne. All of these books were more or less saying the same thing. I was reminded about the importance of being positive and seeing things positively. I was really feeling it. I was so energised and much happier. Literally, the day after finishing ‘The Secret’, I picked up the sheet of paper to practice reading the poem and suddenly, I had a light bulb moment. Even though I’d been reading the words repeatedly several days before, the meaning behind them instantly became clear. The poem was all about viewing death positively and celebrating life. It spoke volumes to me. No longer was I just reading the words, but feeling them. It wasn’t easy, but definitely easier. I was sure I could deliver the poem on the day with confidence now I believed and embraced the words and their meaning. But, just to be sure, I continued to visualise and practice daily.

There’s a slight drawback with visualisation. Not everything is as we picture it. On the morning of the memorial, ahead of the service, I went to the church with my mum. I discovered the interior was nothing like I’d imagined it. There wasn’t just one nave, but three, and I’d be standing in the middle. This threw me! Where would I face? Where would the lectern be positioned? Thankfully, there was time to consider everything, and I was able to practice the reading. I felt happier after that.

The challenge for me during the service was that my reading of the poem was to follow on from my stepsister’s reflections. I’d at least had the foresight to suggest to my mum that we have a hymn in between us. I was very grateful for that on the day. I have no recollection of which hymn it was. I don’t even recall singing. I just remember wiping away the tears, taking some deep breaths and repeating to myself, ‘You’re confident, calm and composed’. The moment of truth had arrived and it was time to read the poem.

He Is Gone

by David Harkins

You can shed tears that he is gone

Or you can smile because he has lived.

You can close your eyes and pray that he will come back

Or you can open your eyes and see all that he has left.

Your heart can be empty because you can’t see him

Or you can be full of the love that you shared.

You can turn your back on tomorrow and live yesterday

Or you can be happy for tomorrow because of yesterday.

You can remember him and only that he is gone

Or you can cherish his memory and let it live on.

You can cry and close your mind, be empty and turn your back

Or you can do what he would want: smile, open your eyes, love and go on.

I was pleased with how my reading went. I wasn’t quite as calm and composed as I’d imagined, but that didn’t matter. The visualisation exercise and positivity had helped. Thankfully, no one could see that my knee was trembling beneath my skirt!

For me, the most touching and memorable moment of the service came right at the end. My stepbrother played ‘The Last Post’ on his cornet. It was very moving. As the music filled the church, I imagined my stepfather sitting at the helm of his boat, setting off to sea. He was smiling as he waved goodbye. Tears rolled down my cheeks, but I felt a sense of peace and calm. I was letting him go.

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Emotional Trauma Release

Thu, 15 Dec 2022 08:54:11 GMT

I’ve been on quite an emotional journey this year, which I’ve been writing about in my blog series Living The Best Life Possible . The most recent post was about Symptom Dialogue , an exercise I’d read about in The Mind Body Bible by Dr Mark Atkinson. The idea was to look beyond my physical injuries and tap into my deeper wants, needs and emotions. As a result, I gained greater awareness and clarity. From this starting point, I began to deal with other issues that were affecting my emotional state. I was ready. So, just one week later, I tried another exercise outlined in the same book, Emotional Trauma Release.

As Dr Mark Atkinson outlines, emotional trauma can mean so many different things and in this context mostly relates to abuse, bullying, heartbreak, accidents, phobias and witnessing a disturbing incident. It isn’t just about the event, but how we respond to it, which may continue long afterwards. It may be hard to process if we go into denial, shock or feel overwhelmed. ‘The painful emotional charge generated in response to the event gets lodged and trapped inside of you.’ How we respond to emotional trauma will also vary hugely from person to person. Some of the possible effects are depression, insomnia, anxiety and addictions, with ‘health, relationships, work and confidence being the most badly affected.’ If you experience distress, upset, anger, irritability, numbness or any negative emotional state when you think about a specific person or event, then at some level you’re still affected. I knew this was true for me.

Just over six months earlier, my stepdad died of cancer. I was still traumatised by the last time I saw him – the day before he died. He didn’t look like the man I knew. I’d never seen someone so close to death before. Whenever I’ve thought about him since then, it was that unwanted memory that always came back first and brought with it the tears. The emotions. The sadness and pain. With his memorial only a few weeks away, it was time for me to let go of the sadness. I was starting to feel positive about the road ahead and I wanted to have happier memories of him instead. I felt sure that it would help me gain some sense of closure.

In the book, there were two exercises outlined, and I ought to stress that the recommendation was to do them with an experienced practitioner, especially if you feel overwhelmed as you go through the process. As I was already in a more positive mental space and sufficient time had passed since the event itself, I figured I’d manage alright on my own. I tried EmoTrance, which was developed by Silvia Hartmann . It was a relatively simple and short exercise, which is why it appealed to me so much.

Following the guidance in the book, I sat down and thought about the memory I wanted to release, then wrote it on a piece of paper, placing it faced down on my lap. I took a few long deep breaths and then turned it over. Slowly and purposefully, I read the words again. A wave of emotion washed over me. Tears were streaming down my cheeks as I fully gave in to the sadness. I placed my hand on my chest. That’s where I could feel it. The idea was to try to get a sense of which direction the energy wanted to go, where it wanted to exit my body. Almost immediately, I could feel a tightening in my throat, as if the energy was stuck there. I scarcely knew if it was real or imagined. Very gently, I massaged my neck with my fingers. Instinctively, I opened my mouth and kept it open for a minute, hoping I was letting it go. I’ll admit, I felt a little foolish. But, it also felt like the right thing to do.

I wasn’t sure if it had worked, so I went through the whole process again, just slightly modifying what I wrote on the paper. Afterwards, I definitely felt better, but wasn’t really certain whether it had been successful. However, later that evening a friend called me for a catch up and I ended up telling her about the memory and the exercise. No negative emotions emerged at all when I was talking to her. Absolutely none. I couldn’t quite believe it. In fact, the following morning I decided to take a moment to check in with how I felt again, just to be sure the trauma was cleared. I let my mind wonder back to that last day once more. The sadness didn’t return. It was gone. I couldn’t quite believe how such a simple exercise had been so effective. It was amazing. I felt so empowered because I now had an exercise I could call upon again, should the need arise.

Around the same time, I’d been reading about how important it is to stay positive in all aspects of life. I guess, in many ways, because I set the intention to let go of the sad memories, because I was ready, it happened. I didn’t want to be sad anymore. It’s amazing how a simple mind shift can work wonders. It’s impossible to feel sad when you’re thinking happy thoughts. I decided to replace the old memory of my stepdad with a happier one. I pictured him having fun dancing. He had his own unique style, which made me smile. I brought the memory back to life by remembering what he was wearing, what the room was like and the lighting. I could visualise it all like a colour movie, full of movement. I could even hear his voice. I remembered how I felt on the evening and the smile returned to me once again. Hopefully, in the years to come, it will be one of the memories that will stay with me.

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Symptom Dialogue

Wed, 23 Nov 2022 08:07:49 GMT

After a difficult year, including a family bereavement and two chronic injuries affecting my ability to work, I reached the point when I realised I needed to listen to my body and find out what it was telling me, which I mentioned at the end of the previous blog in this series, Holistic View of Health. Essentially, I knew I needed to look more closely at the emotional issues affecting me and try to understand what was going on at a much deeper level, and not just focus my attention on treating the injuries. So, I decided to give the Symptom Dialogue exercise a go, which was outlined in The Mind Body Bible by Dr Mark Atkinson. The exercise can even be used to address a disease or situation and not just a symptom. I decided to first focus on my foot problem (plantar fasciitis) because this was the primary injury mainly affecting my ability to teach my dance classes.

I felt it was important to be in the right frame of mind and be clear of any mental chatter, so I went through the process first thing in the morning. As well as it being the quietest time of the day, I’m also more creative and productive then, and I feel fresh. To make sure I was undisturbed, I set aside well over an hour of quiet time with my phone on silent. I even avoided using my computer despite the fact it would’ve been quicker for writing down my thoughts - instead, I went old-school and used pen and paper. It felt more organic and natural that way. I took a few long and slow deep breaths and relaxed.

The book recommends not treating the symptom like “the enemy, as something that needs to be removed or eradicated” and I realised that was exactly what I’d been doing, like I was fighting it. Instead, the aim was to explore the potential positives or opportunities that may be arising as a result of the symptom. Essentially, it was time for me to change my perspective. I needed to accept what was happening, be open to what I may learn and be grateful for the opportunity to know myself better.

The next step was to think of my symptom as an object, to make it easier to explore what it was trying to reveal to me. The idea was to accept the first thing that popped into my head. Immediately, I saw a ball. Then, at the top of a blank piece of paper I wrote, ‘If this foot pain could speak to me what would it say?’, which I know sounds a little odd. But, I was amazed at the random words and thoughts that came to me. I scribbled it all down and even wrote some words more than once, when there were recurring thoughts. The main thing was not to try to figure out the meaning behind it all, but simply let it all flow out across the paper.

Initially, my thoughts were all centred on when I'd first noticed the pain in my foot, at the start of the Covid pandemic and the first lockdown. Unsurprisingly, freedom, loneliness and frustration were the words that came to me more than once. Then thoughts drifted to the present day and feeling tired – everything was getting too much. I wanted and needed more time. Time for things other than work. No pressure. Less Stress. Time to be. Space. Time to reflect. Time for me. Time to write. Time for doing the things that make me happy.

Eventually, I felt drained of thoughts relating to my foot pain and I moved on to the next stage, which was looking at the downsides and upsides of the symptom. I was supposed to have an equal number of both. On the face of it, it might seem as though thinking of positives might be difficult, but after letting all my thoughts out, it was surprisingly easy. I think there are always positives that can be gleaned from our experiences when we look for them. The positives for me were having time out, slowing down, reflecting, listening to my body, going with the flow, not planning and basically giving myself some rest.

When I reflected on the object I’d associated with my symptom – the ball – it seemed so appropriate. At first there was this feeling of literally being stopped from moving, then of not moving forward, figuratively speaking, and then later, the realisation I was always on the go and seldom stationary, hardly resting or giving myself time to reflect.

The sense of clarity I’d gained from going through the whole process was remarkable. All that remained was to come up with an action plan for moving forward. I knew I had to give myself the time and rest I so sorely needed. In fact, I’d already addressed that, because a week before completing this exercise I'd made the difficult decision to have a complete break from teaching during the summer, but, I also needed a plan for the future, once my classes resumed. I had to look at my work-life balance and figure out how I could change my workload so it was physically less demanding on me and sustainable in the long term, plus allow me time for other creative pursuits.

By the end of the exercise, I felt so much better and more positive. I felt the joy of having the time and freedom to do what I needed to do in order to move forward. It felt truly liberating. It was also just the start. Now I’d opened the door to my innermost thoughts, over the course of a few days, I repeated the exercise whilst thinking about different issues and each time new insights were revealed. I even focused on the stress one time, as I knew I had so much tension in my neck, shoulders and back. I wrote so much more on that occasion than any of the other times. Curiously, the object that came to me was a life ring and at the start I had a visual of it in the water and then of me holding on to it, but by the end of all my thoughts, it had grown in size and I was actually sitting on it, floating on the water, feeling fully supported by all those around me. What was really apparent was the shift in the narrative from negative to positive as the flow of thoughts lead me to a much better place. I felt like I was letting go of certain negative thoughts about the future and fully appreciating all the good people and things in my life. I felt a sense of calm and found an inner peace.

Whilst I certainly believed that anything was possible moving forward, there was much I had to let go of and it wouldn’t happen overnight. I’d been holding on to a lot of pain and hurt from the past, in ways I’d never even realised, which had resulted in creating a protective shield around myself, gradually growing over the years. Only now I was realising how this barrier was blocking me from starting a new relationship with someone special. Aside from this, I also felt burdens, pressures and responsibilities that came from the different areas of my life, which weighed heavily on my shoulders. I realised I had to learn to relax and let go of the worry, frustration and tension because it wasn’t helping me at all.

My aim was to go out in nature more, without my camera – for a change – and experience it in different ways and really feel the benefit of mindfulness. But, perhaps most significantly of all, my desire to write was reawakened. For one thing, I felt inspired to write about this year. However, something more important to me was sitting on my computer waiting to be read by someone other than me. In 2020 I’d completed writing a non-fiction book. Finally, it felt like the right time to fully embrace what I wanted to achieve and that was to have it published.

Awareness is such a gift. It’s been enlightening. After completing the Symptom Dialogue exercise several times, it helped me realise what I really want in life, also that it’s within my control to make it happen. I’m not sure even my words here can convey how empowering that feels. It’s like I’ve seen inside my soul and I’m learning to be my true authentic self. I’m letting go of fears and barriers, anything that’s been inhibiting me from chasing my dreams. I’m excited about what lies ahead and I feel hope and optimism is radiating through me. When I think back to the pain I experienced at the start of the year, I now realise how true it is that difficult times help us grow stronger. This was just the beginning of my emotional journey. It feels like now, this year, is the time for me to face my past and work through my issues, so I can fully and completely embrace the future.

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Sunset Over The Sea

Sun, 13 Nov 2022 18:42:42 GMT

I headed down to the beach at dusk. It was a sunny autumn afternoon and several people had the same idea as me. I walked down the beach away from most on the esplanade. I recalled one of my last visits to the beach, when the air was warmer and the sea calmer. Today, the sea was noisy. There was no silent moment between the rise and fall of the tide. With the wind behind me, I flipped up my hood and instantly it dulled the sounds around me and provided some warmth.

I realised my shoulders were tense. So, I let go and relaxed, standing, facing the sun as it neared towards the horizon. Despite the distraction of the sea and wind, everything else seemed calm and effortless, the way the seabirds were gliding across the darkening sky and how the sun slowly dipped behind the faraway clouds and then appeared to melt into the sea. The sun was such a gorgeous fiery orange. I stood still, watching the light change and the sun set, thinking about how happy I've been the last few weeks.

The challenges of this year have been floating away behind me. What’s past is past. The sun has set. I’ve embraced the hard times and delved deep inside to get to where I am now. It’s all been worth it, in ways I never dreamed possible. With a feeling of hope and optimism I can move forward. I’m so happy about all the things on my horizon.

I continued to walk along the beach, wondering if the sun would provide that wonderful encore, that last light, before the day was done. It didn't look like it would, so I turned around and started to head home. Thankfully, I cast a glance over my shoulder and I saw it, the last rays of the sun illuminated the underside of a band of clouds. The glow warmed my heart and made me smile. It was beautiful.

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Scotland In September

Sat, 05 Nov 2022 11:23:29 GMT

Autumn in the Highlands

2022

At the start of September, I returned to Boat of Garten in Scotland, where I’d visited back in March. This time I was on my own and staying in different accommodation – a lovely comfortable, warm chalet at the holiday park. I enjoyed the familiarity of the location, but mostly made a point of exploring new places and having different experiences.

DAY 1 - WWT CAERLAVEROCK

I left home on the south coast at stupid o’clock so I would reach WWT Caerlaverock by early afternoon. Wandering around the reserve to stretch my legs after spending so much time in the car was blissful, especially as it was really quiet…not just due to the lack of visitors but also the whole massive, noisy, flock of Whooper Swans had migrated north to Iceland for the summer.

Once again, the woodland birds at the feeders entertained me, but this time there were different visitors dominating the show – the Tree Sparrows, with their lovely rich brown cap. Amongst the crowd, I spotted several fledglings trying to access the feeders. It was great fun trying to photograph them hovering in mid-air. I pre-focused and took lots of shots, hoping I’d get lucky.

The highlight of the day came just before closing time, when I saw a Brown Hare by the path near a hide. It seemed fairly un-phased by me. Nonetheless, I moved very slowly and quietly to take a few low angle photos. Then, I sat down and just watched as it licked its paw, scratched and wiped its ear and hunkered down to rest. I think we were both pretty chilled out. I left it in peace, feeling that warm glow you get on the inside when you have a special wildlife moment like that, only to discover the reserve had closed! Oops! Luckily, I was able to climb over the locked gate!

DAY 3 - RED SQUIRREL HIDE

My first full day in the Cairngorms area was spent back in the same Red Squirrel hide as earlier in the year. Although I was alone this time, I didn’t mind the quiet nor patiently waiting the minutes and hours for a woodland inhabitant to stop by. Having enjoyed a lot of mindfulness moments recently, I’ve noticed how hard it is to get away from the constant hum of traffic. But there, in a private forest, I really did escape it all. The silence was heavenly. I didn’t even mind when it rained lightly. The sound of the raindrops splashing on the leaves and drumming on the hide roof was so relaxing. Soothing. The smell of the pine trees and damp earth wafted under my nose and I enjoyed a few deep breaths.

The Chaffinches were the first on the scene, closely followed by the Coal Tits. I even had the added pleasure of a Great Spotted Woodpecker that dropped by. I felt happy to be back and the birds were like welcome friends, enjoying the feast of seeds that were scattered around the Ling Heather. Although the flowers were past their best, the soft purple hue was still lovely. With it being so silent, I could hear the soft whirring sound of the birds’ wings as they flew down to the ground and away again in an instant. It’s like the sound you hear when quickly flicking through the pages of a book.

The Red Squirrels were the main attraction, with frequent visits throughout the day. Sometimes, I could hear them approaching as they scampered along the ground, other times, they were so stealth-like, I didn’t hear them at all. Only the slight movement of the flowers gave them away or a bushy red tail wafting just above the heather. They were as gorgeous as ever and kept me happily entertained. There was one persistent one that kept coming back well into the afternoon. Frequently, it approached the feeding area from the left side of the hide and stopped to look at me only a metre away. Then spritely, it leapt off in search of food again. There were times it came so close I could’ve touched it (of course I didn’t). It was so bold, one time it scampered along the ledge of the hide!

DAY 4 - RED GROUSE

It was great to meet up with wildlife photographer Eoghain MacLean again for an enjoyable guided day. I was pleased to see some Red Grouse for the first time and once again the heather made for a picturesque setting. Mostly, they were elusive, but one time a family group crossed the road just ahead of us, so it was lovely to get some close views of them in the grass on the bank.

The majority of the day was spent walking, searching for Mountain Hares. Unfortunately, we weren’t really successful in that regard, which was more worrying than disappointing. The reason was unclear, because we weren’t on an estate that shoots hares. It certainly wasn’t from the lack of trying. We covered a lot of ground and saw a little scat and the remains of one. Eoghain spotted one lone hare in the distance right at the top of the mountain towards the end of the day, which sadly disappeared before I saw it. We had brief glimpses of other wildlife, also near the tops of the peaks: Red Grouse, Mountain Goats and Red Deer. Lower down in the foothills I was content seeing lots of native flora, butterflies, moths and a resting Common Hawker dragonfly.

It was a very long, challenging, exhausting day walking up and down, traversing steep slopes and a few narrow ledges and even fording burns (streams) – I felt like I was in training to become a Mountain Goat - and I loved it! I’m often my happiest when I’m out exploring and it was nice to have the company.

The Red Squirrels were the main attraction with frequent visits throughout the day. Sometimes, I could hear them approaching as they scampered along the ground towards the hazelnuts that had been put out for them. Other times, they were so stealth-like, I didn’t hear them approach at all. Only the slight movement of the flowers gave them away or a bushy red tail wafting just above the heather. They were as gorgeous as ever and kept me happily entertained the whole day. There was one persistent one that kept coming back well into the afternoon, long past what I was expecting. Frequently, it approached the feeding area from the left side of the hide and stopped to look at me only a metre away. Then spritely, it leapt off in search of food again. There were times it came so close I could’ve touched it (of course I didn’t). It was so bold, one time it startled me by scampering along the ledge of the hide!

DAY 4 - RED GROUSE

I’d been warned about the midges in Scotland during the summer, but thankfully I didn’t experience any massive swarms of them, even in areas where they’re renowned. But, that day was certainly when I noticed them the most. I didn’t trust the Avon Skin So Soft that some people swear by, so applied insect repellent as well. Unfortunately, the midges still managed to find the few tiny spots of skin that had missed out on the repellent.

DAY 6 - LOCH GARTEN

I didn’t have a plan on this day, but instead decided simply to go-with-the-flow, exploring the area. It was full of quite a few lovely little surprises and ended up being one of my favourite days. I started out at the visitor centre, watching the birds frequenting the feeders, but it was a group of Chaffinches that stole the show, bathing in a puddle nearby.

DAY 6 - LOCH GARTEN

I walked down to the loch and enjoyed capturing some abstract shots of the water that rippled gently on the surface, in a gorgeous monochrome light. It was very peaceful and calm, with few tourists around. The roads were virtually empty too. I stopped at various places to appreciate the view of the pine trees, without actually going for a walk. I wondered if I’d see any deer, but figured I’d need to go deeper into the forest for that. I was wrong! Literally, minutes after having that thought, I saw a young buck Roe Deer grazing near the side of the road.

Later, I enjoyed a short walk to one of the smaller ponds near Loch Garten. The sun was shining and there was a lot of dragonfly and damselfly activity. I saw my first Black Darters, including a mating pair, and a different female flicking her eggs into the water. Once again, I saw a Common Hawker, this time patrolling his territory. There was even a toad right by the wooden platform, with only its eyes peering out of the water. An hour of my day was spent standing on the boardwalk lapping it all up, appreciating everything around me.

Finally, I tore myself away and ambled along the forest path, unsure really where I was headed. I was simply enjoying being in the forest, smelling the scent of the pine trees and noticing the fungi on the ground. I wondered if I might be lucky enough to see any Crested Tits that late in the afternoon. I'd only ever seen one before, on the very last morning of my previous trip. The answer was, ‘Yes!’ Barely five minutes had passed by, when a mixed flock of birds started to work their way along the trees beside the road. Suddenly, I was virtually face to face with a Crested Tit, in the tree right next to me, perched on a low branch. It was ever so brief, but I had my camera ready. I was thrilled. It made my day!

Finally, I tore myself away and ambled along the forest path, unsure really where I was headed. I was simply enjoying being in the forest, smelling the scent of the pine trees and noticing the fungi on the ground. I wondered if I might be lucky enough to see any Crested Tits that late in the afternoon. I'd only ever seen one before on the very last morning of my previous trip. The answer was, ‘Yes!’ Barely five minutes had passed by, when a mixed flock of birds started to work their way along the trees beside the road. Suddenly, I was virtually face to face with a Crested Tit, in the tree right next to me, perched on a low branch. It was ever so brief, but I had my camera ready. I was thrilled. It made my day!

DAY 7 - PATTACK FALLS

I tried to dodge the rain that was forecast for that day and was successful late morning, when I drove south to Pattack Falls. It’s an impressive canyon with a few low falls along the river. It’s possible to admire it from several vantage points on one side, but photographically speaking, it was hard to do the place any justice. But then again, I’m not a landscape specialist!

DAY 7 - PATTACK FALLS

Later in the afternoon, I wasn’t so lucky when I attempted a walk around Loch an Eilein, near Aviemore. The sunshine that greeted me upon arrival was short lived. Thankfully, I grabbed my waterproof trousers before leaving the car park, just in case. Within 15 minutes, I was wearing them. It was really chucking it down and I turned back after half an hour. For some reason, the thought of my nice warm chalet and a hot chocolate was more tempting than a walk in the rain.

DAY 8 - LOCH NESS

I headed west to Loch Ness and stopped at Dores, located on the east side of the loch. On a good day you can see all the way down the loch to Fort Augustus. Unsurprisingly, I heard more foreign accents there than anywhere else the whole holiday. A few people got in the water for a ‘refreshing’ dip, probably just so they could tell family and friends they’d been swimming in Loch Ness. I walked along the beach to Tor Point and relished the quiet of the forest. The distant calls of birds high up in the canopy above welcomed me. Only a Wren made an appearance in the bushes down low. At the edge of the forest, in a lovely secluded spot, I found a bench overlooking the loch. It was the perfect place to sit, eat and relax.

I drove west Dores to visit Loch Ness, where you can see all the way down to Fort Augustus. Unsurprisingly, I heard more foreign accents spoken than anywhere else that week. I walked along the beach to Tor Point and relished the quiet of the forest. The distant calls of birds high up in the canopy above welcomed me. Only a Wren made an appearance in the bushes down low. At the edge of the forest, in a lovely secluded spot, I found a bench overlooking the loch. It was the perfect place to sit, eat and relax.

From Dores, I drove south along the lakeside road to Falls of Foyers, catching brief glimpses of the loch along the way. The return walk down to the waterfall and back was a bit of an effort and the lack of water gushing over the 42m drop didn’t make it hugely worthwhile. I’m sure it’s quite spectacular in late winter or early spring. But, it was another pleasant diversion. To be honest, I really quite enjoyed driving around and seeing all the varied scenery, taking the less obvious roads. That’s the beauty of being away from home, when so much is new and interesting.

DAY 9 - GLEN AFFRIC

I’d read it’s the most picturesque place to visit where you can still be surrounded by ancient native woodland and it certainly didn’t disappoint. Plus, there was the added bonus of gorgeous warm sunny weather. It was worth the early start and long drive to get there. Along the way I even got a stunning view of Urqhuart Castle, at the edge of Loch Ness, all aglow in the early morning light.

DAY 9 - GLEN AFFRIC

I walked for hours that day, in lots of different directions – not because I was lost, but so I could appreciate as much of it as possible in the one day. I started with a short circular walk encompassing a lovely stretch of the river, where it cascaded over some rocks and I even saw a Dipper. Next, I followed the Affric Kintail Way for an hour before doubling back. It wasn’t so easy to see the loch on the stretch I walked, but I did enjoy my forest companions: a family of Long Tailed Tits and many dragonflies. Some type of Hawker even landed on me! I’ve no idea what species it was. All I could see were its mouth and big lime green eyes staring up at me.

The best view of the valley and loch was from the top of the short memorial lookout walk near the main car park. It was fabulous, and a great place to eat my lunch. Afterwards, I enjoyed a longer walk along the northern edge of the loch where it was far more open – good for appreciating my surroundings. I wanted to get far enough along the trail to see the end of Loch Affric, at the foot of the mountains. At just the right time, I came across a large rock beside the footpath. I sat down and leant against it, enjoying the peace and quiet, feeling really positive. I even felt inspired to write a little. It felt good to take some time to relax and really enjoy the moment. That was my most memorable moment.

I was pretty tired by the time I got back to the car, but had just about enough energy for two more short walks. The first, was a little exploration of Dog Falls and then I drove to another area nearby to visit Plodda Falls (photo). The latter was particularly impressive as you can stand on the platform that juts out above the 46m drop. It was a little nerve wracking taking a photo over the edge with my mobile phone.

The whole day was excellent and I’d definitely go back again to spend more time there.

DAY 10 - WEST HIGHLANDS

I had an even longer drive the following day, as I headed to the West Highlands for my second guided day, once again with Eoghain. The aim was to see Red Deer on the mountains. It was a bit early for the rutting season, so the stags were roaming wild near the base. They’ll venture higher when it’s time to mate. However, I was pleased to see half a dozen hinds and youngsters higher up, wandering around the barren bleak rocky peaks. I also managed to see a Mountain Hare briefly running away, taking cover in between the rocks.

DAY 10 - WEST HIGHLANDS

The highlight was spotting six Ptarmigan on the mountain over the course of the day. They’re another species of Grouse and I’d never seen these before either. The wind was circling around the peaks where they were hiding amongst the rocks, so it was challenging getting close enough to photograph them without scaring them off. In summer, the male has the red comb above the eye, like the Red Grouse, and both sexes are rock grey in colour. They blend in very well to their environment. It would be lovely to see these beautiful birds in their winter white plumage.

The bonus of the day was seeing several Highland Cows in the lowland areas. I’d seen some in other places, but they either weren’t accessible or the area wasn’t very photogenic. There were several cows with calves, and all very docile – more interested in sleeping and eating than minding me taking photos of them. There’s something endearing about how their long hair covers their face, though if it were me, I think I’d find it really annoying!

The views of the islands, coast and mountains were very dramatic, especially the latter, as they rise up from sea level on the west coast. It reminded me of Norway. They were more impressive than the Scottish Highlands in the Cairngorms, where all the land is higher, so the mountains don’t tower above quite so much. I felt inspired to visit the west again and perhaps travel along the popular north coast route.

DAY 11 - LOCH AN EILEIN

After three consecutive days of long drives, I enjoyed a lazy start to the day and didn’t head out for a walk until later in the afternoon. The advantage of doing this was the sun was shining perfectly on the castle, plus there were fewer people around. I finally got my walk all the way around the loch, plus the smaller Loch Gamhna on the far side. Sometimes, it’s lovely just walking alone in silence. I can more fully enjoy everything around me, rather than chatting and being distracted. There were quite a few fungi to see near the footpath and I even saw my first Cauliflower Mushroom.

DAY 11 - LOCH AN EILEIN

DAY 12 - LOCAL WALK IN THE FOREST

It was lovely being able to just walk out of the door of my chalet and head into the forest nearby. I set off at 8.30am with just a hot drink and a couple of snack bars, thinking I’d be three hours max and would have something to eat when I got back. Six hours later, I returned feeling more than a little peckish! It was such a blissful morning though, ambling slowly, taking my time as I gradually made my way towards the small loch on the far side of the forest. The Coal Tits were first to greet me that morning and I was thrilled to see more Crested Tits and a Gold Crest in another mixed flock.

I inadvertently managed to spook an adult Roe Deer, a doe that was hiding in the heather. She leapt away barking, startling me too with her sudden appearance. There was also a young buck ambling along the footpath heading towards me, but instinctively he too ran off. At least this time I’d managed to get a photo before it scarpered.

There was a lovely little red boathouse on the far side of Loch Vaa. I enjoyed gradually walking around the edge of the lake, seeing which vantage point gave the best view of it. Whilst evergreens were the most prominent, I noticed the first signs of autumn in the Birch trees scattered around the lake. I loved how the trees looked as if the tips of their branches had been dipped in yellow paint.

I followed a quiet track back through the forest (top photo) and noticed lots of spiderwebs backlit by the sun. Unfortunately, I managed to walk right into one web that wasn’t so easily visible, leaving the poor spider clinging on to one remaining thread. I felt guilty after all its work creating it.

Overall, it was such a lovely relaxing day. The only thing that ruined it was finding a tick on my leg later that evening.

DAY 13 - RED SQUIRREL POOL hide

My last day was spent back in a Red Squirrel hide, but this time overlooking a pool of water. Only one squirrel appeared all day and that was quite early on. Thankfully, it returned frequently – about a dozen times – to cache away the hazelnuts it had found, so that gave me enough time to get some lovely reflection shots, which was what I was after.

Even though the squirrel activity was minimal, I enjoyed the return of the woodland birds – the same species as on my first visit, but with the addition of a Treecreeper. It was most entertaining watching some of the Coal Tits, Chaffinches and Blue Tits having a little bathe in the water too. The unexpected fly-by that day was seeing two fighter jets flying fairly low above the forest, directly overhead. It was pretty damn loud and scared off all the birds for a spell.

Overall, it was such a lovely relaxing day. The only thing that ruined it was finding a tick on my leg later that evening.

DAY 13 - RED SQUIRREL POOL hide

Sadly, all good things must come to an end, including my holiday. I really do love Scotland and the lure of more wonderful places to explore up there keeps drawing me back. I think it will be the Isle of Mull next time!!

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Worthing Beach

Sat, 17 Sep 2022 19:57:13 GMT

It’s hard to know when summer is over and autumn has begun when you have a glorious warm sunny day in September. There may have been fewer people on the beach compared to the height of summer, but some were braving the water, having a swim. Three paddleboarders drifted by close to the shore and further out, two groups of small single sail boats were gliding across the relatively calm water. It looked so inviting as it glistened like diamonds in the sun.

On the beach, a lone gull was standing on the last wooden post of the groyne, like a sentry keeping a watchful eye out for intruders. A wide band of brown seaweed stretched along the high tide line from earlier in the day. Thankfully, it was downwind from me, so its strong salty smell didn't pass under my nose! A single white feather was sticking out of one clump, its origins unknown – it could have been from miles away. Closer to where I was sitting, near my feet, a small spider suddenly appeared, crawling amongst the pebbles, then disappeared from sight just as quickly.

I turned my face towards the sun and closed my eyes for more than a few minutes, enjoying the warmth of its rays. Ever since I discovered it’s good for your eyes, I’ve tried to bathe my closed lids in the sun whenever I can. It felt good to relax them and not observe anything for a while, other than the orange marble effect I could see with my eyes shut. Being out in nature, away from the computer, the TV screen, books, or any other device that adds strain to the eyes, was a welcome relief. Life slows down in these wonderful precious moments.

When I opened my eyes to the world again I noticed a Small White butterfly head towards the water, but quickly it changed direction - there was nothing to entice it further. Instead, it flitted past me towards some Sea Kale nearby, reminding me why they’re sometimes referred to as Cabbage Whites. I got up and wandered over to photograph it with my phone. I noticed its dark grey wing tips and how this extends further along the horizontal edge than the vertical one, reconfirming to me it was definitely a Small White, not a large one. It looked as though it was freshly emerged with beautiful pristine brilliant white wings. Periodically, it rested in the big curled leaves before moving on to another. I was thrilled to capture a moment when it was in flight.

From there, I walked down to the water’s edge where the pebbles thinned out and I could see the sand – wet and compact. The tide was on its way in, but since there was a low on-shore breeze, it was fairly gentle. I stood there really focusing my attention on the calm sound of the water. It soothes the soul. It slows everything down. It can’t be rushed. Everything in its own time. There was a low gentle sounding whoosh as the tide swept up the beach, followed by an ever so slight pause, and a split second of silence, before it receded again. But when the water was pulled back out to sea, draining down the beach, it was a higher pitched sound as it glided over the pebbles, rolling a few along with it. The sound was like rice being poured into a pan.

The highs and lows of the tide are like the ups and downs of life. It’s certainly been a turbulent year for me, which is why the mindfulness moments have been so beneficial, not least because I’m now writing again. Like a long-lost friend, I’ve been reunited with something that brings me great joy. Now, I finally feel like I’m on the up-curve, and it’s time to move forward. Whilst I don’t fully feel like ‘myself’ yet, I trust and hope things will work out in the end. I’m trying to stay positive and ignore the negative chatter in my head. There’s so much to be excited about – new possibilities for the future. I’ll focus my attention on those as I try to go with the flow and hold on to the calm I feel when I’m listening to the sound of the tide.

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Wilmington Yew Tree

Mon, 29 Aug 2022 18:29:01 GMT

It was almost the end of summer and one of the last dry hot days, of which there have been worryingly too many this year. Following a day of exploring new parts of the South Downs, I unexpectedly found myself in Wilmington, East Sussex. From the village, I saw the Long Man hill figure for the first time that perpetually adorns the north face of Windover Hill. Another first was seeing the ancient yew tree that stands prominently in the churchyard of St Mary and St Peter. After waving off a friend goodbye, I decided to linger a while by the tree. There was nothing I had to rush home for. I was happy having free time just to be!

Sitting in a shady spot, I relished the chance to relax after my long tiring day. I took in a few deep breaths, concentrating fully on slowly breathing in, then out. Noticing my lungs expand and relax again. A cool breeze swept across my face. Instinctively, I closed my eyes and smiled, enjoying the feeling of the air caressing my skin. Out of the corner of my eye, in the late afternoon sunshine, I saw a pigeon fly from one tree to another. A wasp landed on the sign post near me, neither interested in going east or west. Content just where it was. Like me. As usual, within earshot, the hum of traffic floated across the fields towards me. It’s so hard to escape our manmade noises. A world seldom at peace or at rest.

Gradually, the unwanted sounds blended into the background, barely noticeable. Instead, I focused my attention on the coo-ing of the pigeon and my surroundings. Just to one side of the tree, a small white feather ever so slowly floated through the air. I didn’t see from which bird it came. Like a gift from above, it gently fell all the way down to the ground. Falling, so slowly. So delicate. Softly gliding. I felt a lightness inside of me as my eyes followed its path. There's a beauty in the simplest of things. It can bring such a sense of calm that courses through the body like blood.

I drew my attention back to the yew tree. At the end of its branches there were red open-ended fruits dotted amongst the leaves. Although most leaves were green, some had turned brown, which was surprising for an evergreen. I guess it was in desperate need of water. The boughs of the tree extended in all directions, sheltering the gravestones below. I sat quietly alone for quite some time. The only other people I saw were an older couple walking their dog. It was a gorgeous inquisitive puppy that looked like it had a loose wire on the tip of its tail. Its black fur was missing, revealing a little tuft of white instead.

The tree is said to be about 1600 years old. It was leaning like an old person who is hunched over walking sticks. For one so old, it’s not surprising it needs a lot of support. Multiple posts were being used to keep the aged yew propped up. There was even a heavy duty chain around the twin stems of the trunk. It looked out of place, though I’m sure it was necessary. This tree is possibly one of the oldest in the country. Not much in this world is that old, other than the earth itself; the soil, rocks, glaciers and ocean. It’s almost impossible to imagine all the years that have past. Decades and centuries have come and gone and it still stands - just about. How many storms has it seen? How many people have passed under its boughs? How deep do the roots go? How far do they spread out? Is it connected to other trees nearby? Perhaps it’s not a lone tree after all, but just part of a larger network underground, invisible to us. What we can’t see has shaped this living form, just like humans are shaped by experience and emotions. If it could talk, I’m sure it would have many interesting stories to tell. I felt an inexplicable urge to touch the soft flaking bark, which reminded me of Australian gum trees. I think the desire stemmed from a deeper sense of connection, respect and appreciation, and a growing love of trees.

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After The Rain

Tue, 16 Aug 2022 11:46:39 GMT

Mindfulness is the practice of purposely focusing your attention on the present moment. It’s about being aware, calmly acknowledging and accepting feelings, thoughts, bodily sensations and the surrounding environment. There’s no judgement. The idea is to merely witness your own experience. The reason why so many people do it, is because of the potential health benefits, such as reducing stress and improving overall happiness and wellbeing.

The summer has been such a long dry one. The land is parched. But today, finally, the spell was broken and the heavens opened. I took the opportunity to enjoy a short saunter through a wood in Surrey, after the rain.

A strong earthy smell welcomed me as I ambled through the woods. At times, I noticed a lemony scent in the air. The ground was dark and damp. It’s the same place I’d enjoyed in the spring when the bluebells carpeted the woodland, only this time the dried bells and stems were lying on the ground. New growth made it trickier to see the paths usually present, but the freedom to roam where I wanted was lovely. I recognised the fallen tree trunk that was surrounded by bluebells earlier in the year and where four Speckled Woods had been flitting about. Today, there was no sign of any butterflies. I couldn’t hear any woodland birds either. Just the occasional crow or magpie. It was late in the afternoon. Stillness and the quiet prevailed. The rain clouds from earlier had drifted past and the sun was starting to shine through the trees.

Engaging fully in a mindfulness moment is about using all your senses – or at least as many as you can. There was plenty to see. I’d listened to the sounds around me. I’d smelt the dampness in the air. However, I didn’t try eating anything. A dodgy looking baby apple lying on the ground wasn't very enticing and there were no blackberries in sight. I was aware of the calm that I felt within me and how my body was relaxing. All that was left was for me to touch something. So, I placed my palm flat against one of the hazel trees first and held it there for a few minutes, noticing the smoothness and occasional small notches and bumps on the trunk. A little insect near my hand crawled away. Later, I did it again but this time with one of the big oaks. It was such a contrast. The rough deep ridges of the bark were harsh to touch. But I was reminded that it’s a strong tough hardy tree that can survive for years, decades, centuries and occasionally longer. A true symbol of resilience.

The tall old oaks that towered above the smaller trees seemed to be flourishing still, but many of the smaller hazels were struggling, including new growth only two feet above the ground. The leaves were brown and shrivelled, barely clinging on. It was just a matter of time before they’d join the rest of the leaves already covering the woodland floor. It’s not even autumn! It’s a sign the trees are protecting themselves in such dry conditions.

I didn’t feel sad. Nature is resilient and will bounce back. It’s something we share.

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Woods Mill Pond

Wed, 03 Aug 2022 06:44:42 GMT

For about 15 minutes I enjoyed a mindfulness moment beside the pond at Woods Mill on a summer’s day. Mostly I sat, but occasionally I stood up to see things from a different perspective. I was truly submerged in the moment. No camera or binoculars were in hand. I didn’t even worry about identifying exactly what I was seeing. I just enjoyed the simple pleasure of noticing. Being aware.

It was mostly overcast, but warm – hot even, when the sun periodically broke through the cloud. There was a lovely gentle breeze cooling my skin. I noticed a large white seed head softly float down towards the water, then suddenly, it was scooped back up again in the wind. For a fleeting moment, I was fooled into thinking it was alive - an insect.

There was so much activity on and around the pond, and I daresay inside it too. The water level was noticeably low. The bases of the tall reeds and other vegetation around the edges were exposed. A lot of flies were close to surface of the water near me. I even saw a wasp on the water, or maybe it was a hornet – it was quite large. A pair of blue damselflies were mating, a small red dragonfly hovered close by and a much larger one patrolled the pond with wings that shimmered gold in the light.

I didn’t notice the female Mallard at first, having a snooze amongst some of the vegetation. Then I noticed a solitary duckling nearby fast asleep, even more obscured. A family of Moorhens made their way across the water feeding on whatever they could find. “Peeps!” were heard sporadically from the chicks – gorgeous little bundles of black fluff. One took a little dip in the water, shook itself and then repeated the process a few more times. I watched another scratching itself whilst standing on a large floating leaf. The chick was so light the leaf barely dipped under its weight. A Red Admiral came into view just near me and a Large White butterfly was on the wing at the end of the pond. A Heron flew past overhead. I barely noticed the sound of a plane in the distance or the occasional car driving down the road. There were hardly any people. Just me, immersed in nature. Simply blissful!

My heart rate slowed down. I was so relaxed – very deeply relaxed. It’s hard to put into words exactly how I felt. It was like a very soft vibrating energy from inside the body that allowed the peace and calm to expand and reach my extremities, almost creating a tingling sensation. As far as mindfulness moments go, it was pretty fantastic! Simple. Effortless. Enjoyable. I look forward to the next time, somewhere else. I can’t recommend the experience highly enough.

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Holistic View Of Health

Sat, 30 Jul 2022 08:45:36 GMT

I’m trying to live my best life possible! Like most people, I face challenges daily that can affect my stress levels and my general wellbeing. As I strive to move forward, grow and develop, and maintain a sense of balance and calm, I’m reminded of some things that help me. Writing is something I’ve always enjoyed doing, especially about my personal experiences. I not only find it therapeutic, but also love sharing. It gives me the opportunity to connect and hopefully inspire, motivate and encourage others. I believe we all deserve to have the life we want for ourselves.

In the first post of this series, I mentioned having two chronic injuries that led to me Taking Time Out from work recently. The focus was on the positive side of needing to do this. What I didn’t touch on was the journey I’ve been on, whilst trying to deal with these injuries. My road to recovery hasn’t been as simple as dealing with the physical side. In fact, I’ve come to appreciate just how inextricably linked the mind and body are.

The first injury to appear was plantar fasciitis, which is inflammation in the feet. It’s been a slow burner, gradually creeping up on me ever since the pandemic began. Many people suffer from it if they’re on their feet for long periods of time, which is why it’s commonly known as Policeman’s Heel syndrome. However, it can be attributed to extended periods of inactivity too, resulting in tight calf muscles, and it’s also been cited as a symptom of the menopause. I suspect in my case it’s a combination of these two factors. To start with the pain was slight, brief and only occasional, so I didn’t consider it a major problem. But, after another bout of inactivity last Christmas, when my stepfather passed away, the foot pain was more noticeable and frequent, after walking and dancing.

Around the same time, I managed to hurt my right elbow/arm when I had a slight fall. It was still on the mend when I suffered an acute injury a few months later. I’d instinctively put my bad arm up to protect myself from getting hurt. The irony is, it caused me more pain and a worse injury. As if that wasn’t bad enough, 24 hours later, in the middle of teaching a dance class, I suddenly couldn’t take a single step without feeling pain in my right foot.

As a dance teacher, the implications for me were significant, so without delay I made appointments to see my physiotherapist and a podiatrist. They helped assess what was going on, gave me some treatment and/or exercises and I started my recovery. At first things were improving with both, but then I noticed the tension in my shoulder was getting worse. That was when I discovered I’d developed a frozen shoulder. Whilst this alone wouldn’t stop me teaching, I knew it wasn’t good news because it can last up to a few years without intervention. Both my mother and sister have had it before, twice. Having a steroid injection might possibly be an option, but I really wasn’t keen to go down that route. I preferred the idea of letting my body heal naturally.

When you think you’re doing all the right things to get better, it’s very disappointing to find the opposite happening. By then, the worry of the impact these injuries would have on my business was starting to prey on my mind. That wasn’t the only thing troubling me. What I’ve not yet mentioned is that the incident with my shoulder happened when I was going through a really tough spell. Aside from coping with my stepfather passing away, that week had been a difficult emotional one. My concentration was shot to pieces, work was really stressful, I had a minor incident with my car and a lot of little things were going wrong. Even small things felt too much to deal with. So, when I injured my arm and then my foot became unbearable, I quite literally felt like my body was shouting at me, ‘Stop!’

Early on, my reflexologist told me the pain I was experiencing on the right side of my foot was related to my right shoulder. This made a lot of sense to me considering the timing and how quickly the foot pain had escalated. It felt as if everything was connected, the physical and emotional issues. Treating each injury individually no longer seemed like the right approach. It was time to look at the bigger picture with a fresh new perspective.

I went online and found a local osteopath and applied kinesiologist, Josh Bourne . I had no idea what that really meant or involved, but I liked the sound of him because he was undertaking a nutrition course and had an “holistic outlook to healthcare”. By this time, I’d started reading an excellent book called The Food Doctor: Healing foods for mind and body, by Ian Marber and Vicki Edgson. There was a very illuminating section on understanding nutrition and inflammation. I had no idea some foods were considered inflammatory and should be avoided. I started to appreciate, at a deeper level, just how important good nutrition is for the body, especially when healing. Josh was able to identify which nutrients I was deficient in and recommended some supplements to help. I even discovered that not all supplements are created equal and there’s a good reason why some cost more money!

What really blew me away was how quickly Josh discovered how my emotional stress was blocking my recovery. My adrenal glands, responsible for the release of cortisol (the stress hormone) were very tender, especially the right side, indicating it was hard at work. He also showed me, through some simple exercises, how the body can’t function normally when it’s dealing with stress. It literally can’t do two things at once. It was such an eye opener! For the first time, I realised just how much the emotional issues were affecting me, why my body was struggling to cope with the two chronic injuries and why my healing process was so slow.

Now a light was shining on my emotional issues, it was time to work through them and that wasn’t something Josh could help me with. As a writer, the prospect of doing this wasn’t difficult because I’ve been keeping a journal for years. I know how cathartic and helpful it is. So, over the course of the following week I focused my attention on each issue, tuning in to how and why I felt the way I did, trying to accept and rationalise it all before letting go of the negative feelings and hurt. From this I developed some positive affirmations, which I read daily to help me stay mentally strong. To an extent it worked, but not fully.

My sister recommended I try an approach she’d learned from author and international speaker Nicholas Haines (founder of the Five Institute). Instead of reading my list of positive affirmations the idea was to ask myself questions. It’s more powerful because you’re allowing your subconscious to think about the answers and more deeply believe them. For instance, rather than telling myself not to worry about my business if I take a break, I asked myself, ‘Why should I not worry about my business?” So, systematically, I went through all the issues and concerns I’d recently experienced and turned everything into a question. Impatiently, I didn’t wait for my subconscious to start doing the work, I proceeded to answer each of the questions. I’m sure it worked just as well because it was amazing how positive I felt afterwards. Not only did I sleep really well that night for the first time in ages, but the next day Josh saw an improvement when I tried a few stress tests again.

Timing is everything! The same day I started to feel more positive, I received an email from one of my dancers, who recommended I see Caroline Kremer . She offers a natural alternative to physiotherapy incorporating the Bowen Technique and other therapies. My instincts were telling me I needed to find someone who would look at my whole body and not just the injuries and I had a feeling she was the answer. I wasn’t wrong!

It’s because Caroline incorporates various different therapies into her method that she can tailor each session to the individual and it’s why her holistic approach worked so well for me. Bowen Therapy involves gentle moves that are deeply relaxing to release tension in the fascia and help restore the body to normal function. Fascia is important for our overall physical and mental health. Many people haven’t heard of it and yet it holds together the entire body. It’s because it connects everything, that a small niggle in one place can affect other areas too. You only need to imagine twisting your fingers in a t-shirt to see how the material is pulled in different directions, and that gives you an idea of what is going on inside your body! So, if you ignore a niggle, then another develops, and another, you might suddenly find yourself dealing with some much bigger issues that are more challenging for your body to heal. It might be wise not to ignore those small niggles at the start!

All the various treatments, exercises and relaxation techniques I went through during my sessions with Caroline have resulted in noticeable change, both physically and emotionally. But it’s also been quite revealing and highlighted other issues concerning my posture and the amount of tension I’m holding in my neck, shoulders and back – not just because of my shoulder injury. I’ve discovered there are deeper issues I need to let go of in order to move forward positively, and in many ways this journey is only just beginning, as I start to peel back the emotional layers. Caroline has helped me stay positive and gain clarity, and also has guided me in the right direction. She recommended a great book, The Mind Body Bible by Dr Mark Atkinson, which is all about how connected the two elements are. Plus, it includes a really useful toolkit of exercises to help you address your own issues.

On my last visit, Caroline reminded me of a Tony Robbins quote, ‘Where focus goes, energy flows.’ Later, it really dawned on me, all the time I’d been worrying about my injuries it had actually made the situation worse. I’d been so impatient at the start, trying to fix everything. I was battling to be fit again. I realised it was time to let go of all the negativity and be positive! I’m so grateful to all those who’ve helped me on this journey, but especially Caroline. Now, I’m much happier, eating more healthily and feeling better for it, and keeping up with my exercises. But, most importantly, I’m feeling mentally strong. I’ve learned first-hand how intertwined the mind and body are and how important a more holistic approach to health is when trying to heal. I’m ready to listen to my body and find out what it’s telling me!

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Graylings On The South Downs

Fri, 22 Jul 2022 19:50:08 GMT

A butterfly I'd never heard of before 2021

I first discovered the Grayling existed when watching a Sussex Wildlife Trust webinar on the Butterflies of Sussex. To be honest, it was just one of many butterflies that were completely new to me. As my interest has grown, I’ve started to see more of the different species out and about in the county. I’ve come to realise how important it is to support the work of Butterfly Conservation to help prevent the decline in numbers. After joining them, I received one of their newsletters and read an interesting article about the Grayling. They emerge in July and August, but there’s only one colony of them in Sussex. So, I kept the article and made a note in my diary to go looking for them in 2022.

Luckily for me, one of my friends, Bob Eade – a very knowledgeable butterfly enthusiast – knew exactly where to find them, so we arranged an outing. At least that way, if I couldn’t find them myself, he’d point me in the right direction. I didn’t want him to just take me to the location and show me. I wanted to enjoy the challenge of the search for myself.

We’d chosen a day in late July to head up the South Downs in East Sussex. Whilst it was overcast and windy, the forecast had suggested the sun would make an appearance later in the afternoon. I was optimistic, even if they’d underestimated how strong the winds were up on the hills. Eagerly, we set off up the chalky path of the South Downs Way.

I don’t think we’d walked half a kilometre when I spotted my first Grayling on the path ahead of us. That was easy! Not much of a challenge after all. But, in a way, I could relax as the pressure was off. I’d at least seen one now. It was most obliging, as I got down on the ground to take a photo. It’s grey mottled colouring on the underwing was stunning with a wavy band of white – an indicator it was a male.

We continued along the track noticing the Chalk Hill Blues on the wing – my first of the year. We even found a pair mating. They were not so obliging. It was impossible for me to get a good angle to photograph them. After a while of trying, we moved on. What was really exciting for me was seeing, for the first time, two freshly emerged males near each other. The wings were still drying out as they hung downwards and I noticed how the antennae were slightly curved at the end.

There was one section of the path where we saw lots of Six-Spot Burnet Moths on the wing. Bob, my own personal tour guide, pointed out the casings from which they would have emerged. On closer inspection, I could see the remains of the black pupa sticking out from the top of the casing. I’d never noticed either before. Of course, then I was seeing them everywhere.

Once at the top of the hill, we were officially in Open Access land. We could see the Downs stretching out to the west and the clouds drifting across the sky, but still no sunshine. Everywhere the land was looking brown and dry, desperate for moisture.

We followed some tracks through the knee-high grass, heading towards the south side. From then on, it was a case of keeping the eyes peeled for more Graylings. Over 150 had been spotted a week or so earlier, so I was confident of seeing more, but the weather conditions were not ideal. Instead of spotting lots of Graylings, we did manage to flush out loads of Yellow Pearl moths (Mecyna flavalis) simply by walking past them. They’re a micro moth that’s very scarce and only found in a few locations in the South of England and South Wales. A little added bonus!

Although my main priority was finding more Graylings, I was temporarily side tracked when we came across a Chalk Hill Blue. Having seen one sitting on Bob’s hand, I was keen to try it myself. In the past, a few times, I’ve had butterflies briefly land on my body, but never on my hand. I recollected the wonderful experience I’d had earlier in the year when a bird had taken seeds from my palm in Scotland . I’m usually someone who just observes nature. My main issue or concern has always been not to do something that inadvertently might cause the creature stress, harm or change their behaviour in some way. But, reassured it would be fine, I gave it a go. Very slowly, I reached forward with my finger and offered it next to the butterfly and amazingly, it climbed on. It was as light as a feather and so exquisitely beautiful! In that moment, I think I fell in love with butterflies just that little bit more!

After that wonderful distraction, I remain focused and didn’t stop to photograph anything else for a while. We traversed down across the steep hill and then aimed to gradually zigzag our way back up. As it turned out we had company, other than the sheep in the perimeter of the field. At the top of the hill was someone we both knew, another butterfly aficionado, Neil Hulme, clearly on the same mission as us. It was just the three of us all afternoon out on the hill. I love it when it’s quiet like that! However, we did notice a few cyclists at the head of the valley, on the South Downs Way, and also a group of nudist walkers carrying backpacks!

Neil came down to chat to us for a while and then we spread out and continued our search. He’d already seen several Grayling so far, but I was yet to see my second. Thankfully, it didn’t take long! We found a female this time (no white band). Neil and Bob alternated coaxing her onto a dried chunk of poo! Apparently, these butterflies learn and once they realise you’re not going to cause them any harm, they don’t keep flying off. It took quite a few attempts before she finally posed for us beautifully.

The funny thing was, after all their effort, she flew off the poo and landed on me! Suddenly, all the lenses were pointing towards my leg! I’m not sure I’ve ever felt so popular! Even a cricket jumped on me! The Grayling landing wasn’t even a fleeting moment. She lingered for ages. At first, she was positioned horizontally so I could see her underwings clearly. Then turned to look right up at me. Fabulous! My only difficulty was getting a clear view. We’d just had a very brief spell of light rain and I was wearing my waterproof jacket. It kept getting in the way, despite attempts to pull it back. In the end, Bob stood behind me and pulled it taut, whilst I took some photos. I knew he’d come in handy!!!

The Graylings, like many creatures, really are a master of disguise. They love bare patches of ground, like chalky clearings. The pattern on their underwing blends in so well to their environment, it’s amazing how you can struggle to see them, even when you know one is right in front of you.

When it comes to using props, I preferred the use of something more natural, like a small stick. It certainly worked just as well for us. Most of the time, when at rest, the Grayling would keep its wings closed so you only saw the hindwing. But sometimes, they’d quickly flick up their forewing a fraction and reveal the white dot inside the black spot.

Eventually, the sun made an appearance, which was about the time we were lucky enough to see a Grayling nectaring on the flower of some brambles. Usually, it was on the ground hiding. It was one of the few times I actually saw its proboscis too.

Whilst the sun hid behind the clouds intermittently and it was still a little windy, the afternoon did stay fairly sunny and there was noticeably more activity. All the butterflies on the hill became more active. Aside from Grayling, I saw a Red Admiral fly-by, a Brimstone in the distance, a Dark-Green Fritillary hovering just above the tall grasses, one solitary Marbled White and a few Gatekeepers and Common Blues. However, there were plenty of Meadow Browns and Chalk Hill Blues. The real treat was seeing some Silver-Spotted Skippers. It was only my second time of seeing this small species.

Having bagged LOTS of Grayling photos, I enjoyed focusing on some of the other insect species for a while too. There was an abundance of Six-Spot Burnet Moths. I often found more than one nectaring on the same flower.

I was very happy to get a shot of one flying. I’d been focusing on it resting on the flower when it suddenly flapped its wings and took off. I know the photo would have been better if the moth had been facing me, but I wasn’t prepared to spend ages trying to get that image! Sometimes, it’s more important to just enjoy the moment.

It did inspire me to try and get a photo of the Grayling in flight. You don’t get to appreciate the pattern of the upperwing when it’s at rest. The only problem is, they’re incredibly quick. I thought the best bet would be to use the slow motion video feature on my phone. But, when I watched some of them back, one second the butterfly was in view and the next it was gone, even in slow motion! I was lucky if I got one blurry frame with its wings open. There was no chance of getting a sharp image. This one was the best I could capture from the video.

I did try taking a burst of shots with my camera using a fast shutter speed, knowing I wouldn’t be able to focus on the butterfly itself. I managed a few half decent efforts and at least could see how pretty its wings were.

The upperwings are brown with cream and orange patches. The males are not quite as vibrant as the females. Certainly the ones I saw. Because the veins of the wings run through the lighter colour, I think the pattern resembles flowers. There's also a white dot inside a brown spot, at the centre of each creamy patch.

The highlight of the afternoon was definitely seeing the courtship behaviour of two Graylings. Of course, this didn’t happen out in the open where it was easy to see, but nestled in amongst the grass. The male circle around the female, facing her and there was a lot of rapid wing movement from both of them. It was a bit of a frenzy to be honest! I don’t know about them, but I was getting all excited thinking I might actually get to see a pair mating. But, the lack of interest from the female was enough to put the male off and he flew away eventually. He actually landed on my shoe for a bit before moving on.

When we were tired and had had our fill of Grayling activity, we headed back down the hill. There were just a few more treats waiting for us on our descent. There was a lovely spot where we were shielded from the wind and felt the heat of the late afternoon sun. I was particularly pleased to finally get a close view of a Dark-Green Fritillary, which was resting on a Round-Headed Rampion – honest, it’s under there!

In comparison, here’s the much smaller Chalk Hill Blue nectaring on a Rounded-Headed Rampion – The Pride of Sussex – our county flower.

We also spotted a handful of mating Chalk Hill Blues on the tall grasses high up on the bank. They appeared to be in a more pleasing position (photographically speaking) than the pair I’d seen earlier in the day. So, carefully we climbed up to them trying not to trample on too much. The warm light was so lovely. It was worth the effort, even if I did nearly fall down the steep embankment at one point.

We even saw another Grayling on the path before we left. It had been a fabulous day. I was very grateful to Bob for sharing some of his knowledge with me and for having such eagle eyes. He was a great spotter and unofficial tour guide!

In a way, it was a day of celebration, because I’d finally seen butterfly species number 43 for me, within the county. When I’d watched that webinar back in 2021, they stated there were only 42 species of butterfly that live their complete life cycle in Sussex. So, based on that, I can celebrate! Yay! I’m very happy to have achieved such a milestone and to have seen so many different beautiful butterflies. I never set out on a quest to see them all. It wasn’t about ticking species off a list. For me, it was a chance to get to know my home county better and appreciate all the wonderful things on my doorstep. That journey isn’t over, it’s only just beginning.

For now, I’ll not worry about the possibility that a new species is likely to be added to this list. Some Large Tortoiseshells have been found on the Knepp Estate this summer, with evidence they’ve emerged rather than being released. This seems like it should be exciting news. But, my response is measured because of the extremely worrying news that this year half of the UK butterfly species are now on the Red List and threatened with extinction . The Dark Green Fritillary is one of the newest additions.

The problem is bigger than declining numbers of butterflies. We’re experiencing massive declines in insect populations. Since they’re low down the food chain, the implications of this are huge and will have serious consequences for everything above them in the food chain – including us.

In comparison, here’s the much smaller Chalk Hill Blue nectaring on a Rounded-Headed Rampion – The Pride of Sussex – our county flower.

In a way, it was a day of celebration, because I’d finally seen butterfly species number 43 for me, within the county. When I’d watched that webinar back in 2021, they stated there were only 43 species of butterfly that live their complete life cycle in Sussex. So, based on that, I can celebrate! Yay! I’m very happy to have achieved such a milestone and to have seen so many different beautiful butterflies. I never set out on a quest to see them all. It wasn’t about ticking species off a list. For me, it was a chance to get to know my home county better and appreciate all the wonderful things on my doorstep. That journey isn’t over, it’s only just beginning.

My hope is not only that more people start to love, value and appreciate what we have, but also do something about it, in whatever way possible – sharing that love of nature, spreading the word, speaking out about the concern to those in power, signing petitions, and donating time or money to local and national groups and charities. These warnings of serious change help to remind us we need to take action. We can still turn things around. There is every reason to be positive because collectively we have the power to do so much, if we choose to.

I choose to remain hopeful!

Taking Time Out

Sun, 17 Jul 2022 12:59:07 GMT

Sometimes I find I just need to stop! The hectic pace and pressures of day to day life can weigh me down emotionally and physically. Over the years I’ve found ways of managing or coping with my stress in the short term, for a few hours, whether that’s through exercise, a social event, enjoying quiet time or a relaxing activity. But, I think at times these solutions are only an avoidance tactic. They don’t prevent the same stresses returning the next day, week or month.

How often do we actually reflect on and reassess the different areas of our life, such as relationships, career and health? Do you ask yourself if you’re happy, or ask what would make you happy? Moreover, how often do we make conscious choices on the big things that matter and make significant changes to improve the quality of our life? Only now I’m mulling it over, I realise I do it fairly often. But, I imagine there are some people who might find it quite difficult.

Every year at Christmas, I voluntarily take at least a two-week break (sometimes longer). I have done for quite some time now. Everything tends to wind down then, so it’s a good time for a break. I love catching up with my family and maybe a few friends too. It’s a great opportunity to rest and recharge my batteries. But, I also look forward to having more time just for me – to be spontaneous and free. I might work on a project, get out in nature or simply declutter my home – and my mind, for that matter.

I’m one of those people who writes a newsletter every year to send to those I don’t get to see often. For me, it’s quite cathartic. It gives me the chance to reflect on all the highs and lows of the year that’s passed. Then New Year approaches and I start to think about what may lie ahead. I don’t make a list of resolutions. Instead, I set myself goals. During the year I usually forget about the list. So, when the next New Year comes around, it’s really interesting to remind myself of what I wrote and how much of it I actually achieved. I’m often pleasantly surprised. Realistically though, I probably set myself too many goals, and during the year never have enough time to do what I’d like to do. Work and life pressures get in the way. But, it always feels good to set the intention at the start of the year and have a focus.

Taking an extended break has always been so beneficial to me. Being self-employed has made it easier to do and I know I’m very lucky, in that respect. However, I appreciate, it’s not easy for everyone. There are any number of good valid reasons that prevent us from voluntarily taking time out. Responsibilities and the financial implications are probably high on the list of deterrents. But sometimes, something major happens in our life, and we’re literally forced to put everything on pause.

For me, the first time this happened, I was in my mid-twenties. Completely out of the blue, my father died. He was only 65. Of course, it goes without saying just how painful that experience was. Everything in my life suddenly stopped, not just for the funeral but whilst sorting and clearing his house. It’s all a bit of an emotional blur now. When I thought I was ready to resume my life as before, things were different. I felt different. Those who had never experienced that kind of grief and loss didn’t understand how I felt or how long the grief could last – I’m not talking months, but years.

Death has a way of making you reflect on life. I certainly found myself wondering what my purpose was and what I wanted. My shift in thinking ultimately lead to a cascade of events – the end of a long term relationship, buying my first house, the threat of losing my job and then finally, actually my choosing to quit. It felt like the previous three years had been leading to that one precise moment in time.

An unpleasant situation had developed with a colleague and I thought to myself, I don’t need this! That was when I took another significant break. Though it might seem as if quitting my job was a big decision, really it was quite simple. In my heart, I knew it was what I wanted. I even knew it at the start of that week off. The challenge, all my thinking, was trying to justify the decision to myself and working out how I was going to manage financially and what I was going to do next. By the end of that week my head was throbbing!

Until that point, many of my decisions about my career had been relatively easy – natural steps and progressions. But all of a sudden, I realised how far down one path I’d gone and I didn’t want to be on that road any more. I wanted to try something completely different and explore other, more creative options. I knew I’d be starting a whole new journey in my life. I wasn’t entirely sure where it would lead, but I had faith in myself that things would work out alright. Actually, not knowing was exciting! In some ways, it was a massive leap, but I never felt daunted because I focused on each of the small steps I needed to take.

My new direction lead me to Australia. What an amazing year I had! I would even go as far as saying, life changing. One day you might get to hear about that, as that’s a whole other story.

Life after Australia wasn’t all plain sailing and financially things were extremely difficult for a while, but I survived. Eventually, I discovered a job I felt I was born to do! I started my own business teaching adult dance classes, which I still do to this day. I love it! It doesn’t feel like work. Over the years the business has grown and developed. Ultimately, it has been a success, but more importantly, it still makes me very happy.

The next big enforced time out didn’t come for many years – until 2020. There’s no prizes for guessing why! Never has one thing affected so many people globally at the same time. The Covid-19 pandemic has abruptly changed billions of people’s lives in so many different ways. It brought out the best and the worst in us. Despite all the pain, suffering and death, there are always lessons that can be learned and positives we can take away. Even though each person’s experience has been slightly different, depending on their situation and stage in life, there’s possibly one common thing that has occurred. The vast majority of people had the opportunity to realise the things they valued most in life. For many, that’s resulted in significant change.

Back in March 2020, I didn’t get a time out. I was too busy focusing on finding ways to keep my business going and indirectly support all the lovely people who came to my classes. I had to learn new skills very quickly so I could offer Zoom classes and create YouTube videos for sharing. There were so many practical aspects to get my head around. It was a very intense and stressful time. That’s without considering any of the personal effects of the restrictions and isolation.

Whilst I was able to ease my foot off the gas for a short while during the summer, I really didn’t get the time out I sorely needed until the end of 2020 and the third lockdown. I continued to work, but at a much more relaxed pace. I gently eased into each day and had more time for other things. Getting out in nature with my camera was something I’d enjoyed before the pandemic, but it moved up to another level during it. Like so many people I appreciated the benefits of being in green space, seeing each season unfolding, and also taking the time to really notice what was around me. There’s always something new to learn and discover. What’s even better, I’ve also made new friends who have similar interests.

I realised even then, what a blessing it was to have more time. I didn’t want to lose that. But, no sooner had I resumed teaching in person, life got busy again. I was doing my all too familiar juggling act! I found myself missing the simplicity in life I’d become used to during the pandemic – a more relaxed way of doing things. How quickly everything reverted to the old way of being! Plans and ideas I had for the future slipped into the background as I continued at pace on the treadmill of life.

I mustn’t complain, because I know I’m very fortunate to have navigated through the last few years relatively unscathed and with my business still intact, albeit diminished in size. For a while I thought I was doing alright. I was focused on the task of recovery and rebuilding. But, things don’t always go according to plan. Another chain of events unexpectedly stopped me from moving forward.

If you throw into the mix the menopause, the passing away of my stepfather, stress with work and various other emotional issues, out comes not one, but two chronic injuries. Feeling emotionally drained, physically exhausted and in pain, it was as if my body was literally shouting at me, STOP!

Initially, I took a couple of weeks off work, then a few more. But, I don’t think I truly relaxed. In the back of my mind I was wondering when I’d be able to teach again and how long the injuries would last. This only added to my stress. I can see now how I was definitely too busy trying to fight what was happening to me, rather than accepting. I was so reluctant to take a substantial break from teaching, but finally I gave in. It was time to truly ‘listen to my body’!

I only made that decision a few weeks ago and already I’ve come to realise the injuries have been a blessing in disguise. I’m reminded how taking time out is so important, whatever the circumstances that bring it about. We can always take positives from negative situations, if we look for them. Once again, I have time. How valuable and precious it is! This has been a golden opportunity for me to think about what’s important and what makes me happy. Already, I have greater clarity and a renewed purpose. My future is in my hands and now I’m ready to move forward. Whatever happens, I know I’ll be okay. That belief gives me the confidence and faith in myself and what I can achieve. I’m so grateful for the love and support of those around me. Knowing I have this gives me the strength to live my best life possible.

See next post in this series...

Panshanger Park In Summer

Sat, 18 Jun 2022 20:37:19 GMT

Morning stroll identifying butterflies, dragonflies and damselflies

In mid-June I visited a friend up in Hertfordshire and we enjoyed a lovely morning stroll around the lakes at Panshanger Park in the Mimram Valley. Luckily for her, it was walking distance from her home and had been the place she frequented regularly during lockdowns to get some exercise and, like so many of us, to seek solace in the arms of nature.

Panshanger Park covers roughly 1,000 acres of countryside owned by Tarmac who have been “sensitively quarrying” sand and gravel since the 1980s. Now the extraction is complete, a large area has been turned into a country park and nature reserve for the public to enjoy. Tarmac manages the park in partnership with Herts and Middlesex Wildlife Trust and Herts County Council.

We set off in the warm summer sunshine, but like many a British summer's day, it became overcast soon after arriving. Despite this, we saw a good number of butterflies, though I daresay there would’ve been more had the sun not been obscured so much.

Meadow Browns were by far the most conspicuous and numerous. There were mainly males on the wing in the wildflower meadows in search of females. More often than not, when I see Meadow Browns at rest, the wings are closed. Compared to other butterflies, the pattern on the underside is quite plain. Its distinguishable feature is a single white dot in the centre of a black spot on the forewing, which is quite often visible at rest. This can also be seen on the upperside of the wings, when they’re open. As luck would have it, that morning we got to see one spreading its wings. A splash of orange on both the upper side of the forewings and a hint of it teasingly revealed by the partially covered hindwings meant it was a female.

That morning we also saw a Small Tortoiseshell, Red Admiral, a few Small Whites, a Skipper of some description, which didn’t settle long enough for a photograph or for identification, and a couple of Ringlets. The latter can easily be mistaken for Meadow Browns near woodland edges, as I did that morning, at first.

There was something about the two butterflies that made me look longer. I’m not sure if it was the colour (they’re a darker brown than Meadow Browns) or their flight. But sure enough, after following them and finally getting a few photos, I realised my mistake. I love the way this pair were flying close together through the grass. I know you can't easily see they're Ringlets, but this was my best shot of them that morning!!! I suspect it was more a male in pursuit of a female, rather than a male defending his territory. These are one of my favourite butterflies. I love the chocolate coloured brown of their wings and the small rings that are particularly noticeable on the underside. I’d never even heard of Ringlets before last year and yet they’re one of our most common butterflies!

Our main focus throughout the morning was actually watching the numerous dragonflies and damselflies that could be seen around the various bodies of water. It was quite fun trying to identify each species we saw, based on the knowledge I already had, but helped by the noticeboard nearby. We successfully managed to ID four of the species seen. Later, studying my photographs further and using my reference book, I was able to ID five other dragons and damsels (informal), including two more species. I enjoy the process of investigation and this is how my knowledge has gradually increased over time. I still have much to learn! Luckily for me, I have a few friends who have also helped me!

For those less familiar with identification, dragonflies tend to be larger than damselflies. The latter are much smaller and more dainty looking. Generally speaking, you’ll find the majority of dragonflies rest with their wings open, whereas damselflies rest with their wings either closed together or parallel to their abdomen. However, there are a few exceptions to the rule. For instance, the Willow Emerald Damselfly rests with its wings open.

Of the dragonflies we saw on our outing, the Four-Spotted Chaser was the most predominant. A number of males appeared to be defending their territories over the first small pond we stopped at. From a viewing platform, we watched their erratic flight and the occasional bouts of hovering, quite often in the same few places.

That was how I managed to capture this image. The trick was to prefocus on a spot and wait patiently for the dragonfly to return to it again. I also used a fast burst of consecutive shots and hoped that one would be in focus. It takes a lot of practice and you usually have far more to discard than you do keepers!

Sometimes there were moments of calm when we saw the male nearest us rest on a favoured perch or two. But more often than not, another male would intrude and there was mayhem. It was as if someone had just pressed a fast forward button! Occasionally, it was a female that did a fly by. She aroused a great deal of interest, as the males would follow her around the pond. A bit later ‘our’ male would return again, presumably unsuccessful in mating. Though who knows, apparently the ‘deed’ is over in seconds!

We did get lucky on one occasion, or I should say he did, because a female flew in to his territory. I noticed how she dipped her abdomen briefly, but repeatedly, into the water. Though I didn’t realise it at the time, she would have been egg laying. No sooner was she done, when ‘our’ male formed a mating wheel with her. They rose up a couple of metres above the water’s surface, and hovered right in front of us for a split second, then flew off (not quite into the sunset). It all happened so quickly, there was no time for a photo!

We did get lucky on one occasion, or I should say he did, because a female flew in to his zone. I noticed how she dipped her abdomen briefly, but repeatedly, into the water. Though I didn’t realise it at the time, she would have been egg laying. No sooner was she done, when ‘our’ male formed a mating wheel with her. They rose up a couple of metres above the water’s surface, and hovered right in front of us for a split second, then flew off (not quite into the sunset). It all happened so quickly, there was no time for a photo!

Not long before this outing I’d heard people on Twitter talk of exuvia, which is the remains of the larva casing from which the adult insect emerges (damsels and dragons). To actually see an example was great, even if it wasn’t that fresh. It amazes me that larva of both species spend two years in water before it’s ready to turn into the adult form. The larva crawls up a reed and the adult form breaks out of the casing. The fact the dragonfly (or damselfly) is at least twice the size of the casing is quite remarkable. It must have been a tight squeeze!

Considering how small the pond was, it really was supporting an abundance of insects. From the viewing platform we could see lots of damsels. On the far side, which was inaccessible, a male Banded Demoiselle was flying around. Since I only had my macro lens, I didn't even try to take a photo. It’s a striking species with a gorgeous blue-green metallic body. Only the males have the thick dark band on the wings.

There was a female Banded Demoiselle perched on a reed closer towards us, but at the time I thought she might have been one of the emerald species because of her colouration. Whilst there were no Willow trees overhanging the pond (and no other trees particularly close by) I had forgotten that the Willow Emerald sits with its wings open, so that species should have been ruled out immediately.

One of the crucial things I failed to notice was how the wing shape was different. Instead of long slender wings, the demoiselles have a slightly more tapered oval shape. The female also has a very distinctive white wing spot that the male doesn’t possess and it’s a different colour to the other emerald damselflies. I’m hoping I’ll remember all of this for next time. That’s the great thing about making mistakes – you tend to learn from them!

At this first pond we saw three of the blue species of damselfly, the Common Blue, Blue-Tailed and Azure. The latter were only a few in number, at least from our vantage point and the ones we were close enough to identify.

The male Azure damsel is similar to the Common Blue, but a few of the identifying features are that it has a noticeable black spur (small notch) on the side of the thorax and the blue bands on top are narrower (as seen in the photo).

The Blue-Tailed Damselflies were also few in number. The males are easier to tell because their abdomen is predominantly black with only blue on the end segments. One of the most useful identifying features is that both sexes have two tone pterostigma (wing spots). You can probably see this better if you expand the screen.

I thought the females would be another colour and that’s it. But, oh no! There are five different colour forms for the females! They all have the same blue tail, but the thorax is a different colour. We were lucky enough to see the rufescens, which was a first for me.

Unsurprisingly, we saw more of the Common Blues than any other species. At the first pond, we'd seen all three species in fairly equal number, but further along the walk and at the larger lake, we saw predominantly Common Blues.

In terms of identification, segments S8 and S9 at the bottom end of the abdomen are solid blue and there's no notch on the side of its thorax.

Unsurprisingly, we saw more of the Common Blues than any other species all morning. Not only at the first pond, but all along our walk.

In terms of identification, segments S8 and S9 at the bottom end of the abdomen are solid blue, there's no notch on the side of its thorax and the blue bands on top of the thorax are wider than the Azure damsels.

I hadn't paid a huge amount of attention to the birds in the trees as we walked around the park – we were too busy chatting! However, when we left that first pond I heard a very distinctive loud call – five successive notes, “On-the-mat-I-pee!” Well, that’s at least what it sounds like to me and what helps me remember it! It was one of the first bird calls I learned and not even one you hear often, but it’s so distinctive. It’s the call of a Cetti’s Warbler. The first day I heard it I was lucky enough to see this elusive bird, just as it was calling, so I’ve always remembered it. We weren't so lucky on this outing!

Much later along our walk we reached the end of a lake and I was amazed by the sheer number of Common Blues that were congregating around the tall grasses. I'd never seen so many before in one place. I didn't know where to look and which one to photograph first. But, then I noticed some lucky males had already found a partner and had formed a mating wheel, so I turned my attention towards them. It was great that they were relatively accessible too, and therefore easier to photograph.

What I love about this photo is how you've got a couple of the damsels flying around them, which gives you a little indication of the activity all around us.

There are two different colour forms for the female in this species. In the previous photo, you can see the green form in the mating wheel (if you look closely). This is the colour I’ve seen before. So, I was thrilled when I got home and realised we’d also seen the blue form as well. At the time, I just kept taking photos of each variation we saw and figured I’d worry about identification later.

You can see the blue on the abdomen in this photo. However, you’d also expect to see blue on the thorax as well. However, I’ve read that the thorax turns brown with age, so I’m guessing that’s the case here. It’s worth remembering age is relative. Damselflies in the UK seldom live more than one or two weeks. Dragonflies fare a bit better, but only the luckiest live about two months and most live less than half that time.

I did get a little confused a few times because I saw several damsels that looked more straw coloured and almost translucent. Upon further investigation, I discovered these would have been tenerals, a term I’ve not come across before. It’s the name given to the newly emerged immature damsels and dragons. Their colour develops as they mature. In fact, I've only just discovered that another of the species I photographed that day was a teneral as well.

I was very distracted by all the commotion of the Common Blues that it took me a while before I noticed a striking bright yellow large dragonfly resting on the grass nearby. I took some photos and later found out it was a Black-Tailed Skimmer. But, as you can see in the photo, there's no black tail, which suggested to me she was a female. I’d say in more cases than not, the naming of butterflies, dragonflies and damselflies are all related to the male of the species and there’s often significant differences between the sexes.

But that's not where the identification challenge ends! Just to add confusion, immature Black-Tailed Skimmers of both sexes look very similar (as is the case with other dragon species) and both are yellow. One of my friends assures me this is a teneral, freshly emerged, and you can tell by how clear the wings are.

Across all species of dragons and damsels you'll often find the eye colour varies between the sexes. In this species the male eyes are greenish or blue but the females are olive or brown, suggesting this immature is a female. There's one more clue here, the black ladder pattern running down the sides of the abdomen looks thicker in the immature male.

You can see the lovely clear wings of the immature female more easily in this photo with the Common Blue damselfly.

For quite some time she seemed very chilled out, resting on the tall grasses, which was handy for me taking a photo. Then the Common Blue suddenly appeared and photobombed my shot and disturbed her. Whilst the photo is out of focus, you can appreciate the difference in size between the two species.

You can see the lovely clear wings of the immature female more easily in this photo with the Common Blue damselfly.

It wasn't only butterflies, dragonflies and damselflies that caught my attention. One of the highlights of the morning was when I noticed some movement on the ground. It wasn’t a cricket or grasshopper but a gorgeous little froglet – a baby Common Frog. It was hiding in the shorter grass and thankfully did a good job of avoiding my feet. I’d seen my first one the previous summer, but had failed to get a decent photo. It had disappeared into the taller grass too quickly on that occasion. I was thrilled to see another and get a great photograph.

Around midday the wind had picked up and there was a short spell of light rain. It was a good time to end our nature walk and head back to the house for some lunch. I was amazed by how much we had seen and there was still one more treat for us on the way back. A small Muntjac Deer ambled across the quiet road a fair distance ahead of us, pausing briefly to glance our way before slipping into the dense vegetation and out of sight. It’s the first time I’ve seen one in the wild. My camera wasn’t handy, but sometimes you don’t need one to hold a memory in your head.

I was a little envious my friend could just walk to Panshanger Park when she felt like it. Having an abundance of wildlife on your doorstep is definitely something to be grateful for. I could see exactly how it was a wonderful escape from the craziness of the last few years and would continue to be for her, and many others, in the years to come.

Photographing Bluebells

Sat, 07 May 2022 12:12:13 GMT

A Wander Through The Woods

21st April 2022

One of the many joys of spring is seeing swathes of bluebells carpet ancient woodlands. The sweet aroma of the Common Bluebell can be quite intoxicating after a while of wandering through the woods. Only this species (Hyacinthoides non-scripta) is native to the British Isles. The tubular bells are a lovely deep blue colour with cream coloured pollen. I love the way the tips curl back on the delicate bells. They’re also easy to spot at a glance, because the stem droops over and the flowers are on one side. If you look a bit more closely you’ll also notice the leaves are fairly narrow, 0.7-1.6cm wide. It's worth knowing what the two other species of bluebells look like so you can distinguish between them.

Spanish Bluebells (Hyacinthoides hispanica) are the species that you might see in gardens across the UK. The stem is more upright and covered all around with larger lighter coloured bluebells. The flowers are more conical shaped with tips that spread outwards and the pollen is blue inside. The leaves are also noticeably wider (2-4cm). They either have no scent or an unpleasant onion scent.

Unfortunately, they've hybridised with the native ones and its these hybrids (Hyacinthoides x massartiana) that are so invasive and are threatening the Common Bluebell and actually now more common than the Spanish Bluebells. The flower spike is either nodding or partially nodding with some flowers on all sides. The shape of the individual bells is likely to be a cross between the other two species and the pollen can be varied in colour (blue, green, cream). The leaves are between 1-3cm wide. In the photo shown, they look like the hybrid species. Even the colour of the bells is not uniform and one colour.

Unfortunately, they've hybridised with the native ones and its these hybrids (Hyacinthoides x massartiana) that are so invasive and are threatening the Common Bluebell and actually now more common than the Spanish Bluebells. The flower spike is either nodding or partially nodding with flowers on all sides. The shape of the individual bells is likely to be a cross between the other two species and the pollen can be varied in colour (blue, green, cream). The leaves are between 1-3cm wide. In the photo shown, the bluebells look like the hybrid species. Even the colour of the bells look two tone.

I recently discovered that half the world’s bluebells are found in the UK – they’re relatively rare in the rest of the world. In fact, Common Bluebells are protected in the UK under the Wildlife and Countryside Act, 1981, which means you shouldn’t pick them and digging up the plant or bulb in the countryside is prohibited. Landowners are also prohibited from removing bluebells from their land to sell. You’ll often see signs about sticking to the footpaths and this is because it can take years for bluebells to recover when the leaves are crushed under the trampling of feet.

This year I saw my first bluebells emerging on 24th March, in the woods at the end of my sister’s garden in Surrey. This seemed quite early to me, though I had to wait a month for them to be in full bloom. That's when I visited and enjoyed a lovely wander through the woods.

Getting up at 5.30am was hard! I wanted to be at my sister’s by 7am so I could enjoy the soft morning light as it penetrated through the trees. The bluebells can even look purple at that time of day. Naturally, no one else was around at that time, so I had the place to myself, aside from the birds singing away in the canopy above. Actually, I didn’t see anyone else in the wood all morning. It’s a quiet little oasis, relatively undisturbed by humans as there are no public footpaths. Only the people who live in the houses that back on to the wood can access it.

After taking my first few photos, I stopped to appreciate the sea of blue that surrounded me. I decided the best way to do justice to this wonderful sight was to create a panorama. Whilst my mobile could adequately do the job, the quality of the image isn’t as good as when I use my digital SLR. So, using my wide-angle lens, I took several photos and afterwards I stitched them together in Photoshop. I tried this technique from several different vantage points, but the first one is my favourite, with the low light and the path that leads you into the wood.

This year I saw my first bluebells emerging on 24 ^th March, in the woods at the end of my sister’s garden in Surrey. This seemed quite early to me, though I had to wait a month for them to be in full bloom. That's when I visited and enjoyed a lovely wander through the woods.

It’s very easy to think the wide-angle lens is the only one you need for landscape photography, but I often find I get more varied and interesting results when I use a macro and telephoto lens as well. To be honest, it’s very difficult to be original when it comes to bluebells. So, finding ways to be more creative can be both fun and rewarding. As I told my group, on a recent guided bluebell walk, it’s all about telling a story with your photos. An image of some bluebells can be very forgettable if it’s not composed well and there’s nothing of interest drawing you in. I find it’s always worth ambling slowly, taking the time to really observe my surroundings and notice the smaller details. That’s when inspiration is likely to strike me.

The variation in bluebell colour (which can also be in pink) is the result of a genetic mutation. In fact, this can occur in all three species found in the UK. When you see a mass of blue and one lone white flower, it’s quite astonishing really that these mutations occur. Nature really can be surprising!

Since my first love is wildlife photography, my favourite moments are when I see the creatures that inhabit the woodland. Gradually, more of the wood was bathed in light and with it there was increased activity. I’d just noticed an old tree trunk lying on the ground and had started to photograph it when I saw the unmistakable fluttering of butterflies around it. As they were some distance away, I increased the shutter speed to 1/1600 and took a burst of photos in the hopes of capturing them in flight. I got lucky! (Look closely and you'll see four in flight!)

One minute everything was calm as each butterfly rested, opening their wings to warm up in the sun. The next, one would take to the wing and suddenly it was a mad frenzy of activity. At one point, I saw five all a flutter. Sometimes it was territorial behaviour, but other times the males were in hot pursuit of a freshly emerged female.

I meandered along the path keeping an eye open for some white bluebells to photograph. I literally only saw a few, but just one was in the light. The first photo I took (above) was using my wide-angle lens and gives a better sense of place, but I think I prefer the other photo where I've zoomed in using my telephoto lens to draw more attention to the lone white bluebell amidst the blue. For me, this one has more impact. The variation in colour (which can also be in pink) is the result of a genetic mutation. In fact, this can occur in all three species found in the UK. When you see a mass of blue and one lone white flower, it’s quite astonishing really that these mutations occur. Nature really can be surprising!

It was such a special moment to see this story unfolding and learn from it as I watched their behaviour. It felt like a good note to end on.

But, as I’m learning, you should be prepared for the unexpected and keep your camera to hand if you want to capture surprising moments. As I was walking back towards my sister’s house, a fox startled me! It was crouching down really low in the grass just 2m ahead, as if trying to hide. In that split second, it sprang up onto its feet and swiftly ran away. Instinctively, I fired off a few frames, but naturally only got its backside view. The fox stopped up ahead to look back at me, but rather annoyingly was partially obscured by a tree. Since I needed to head in the same direction, I approached very slowly. It then ran off to the right through the bluebells. I figured it would turn around again, so I waited to capture that moment, only this time I could barely see it through the bluebells. It looked at me briefly and then disappeared into a dense bit of vegetation. I wasn't having much luck!

I managed to follow a path closer to where the butterflies were and I watched them for quite a long time. There were several Speckled Woods all close by each other. With so many in such a small space, it made me wonder if perhaps they had all come from the same female. One minute everything was calm as each butterfly rested, opening their wings to warm up in the sun. The next, one would take to the wing and suddenly it was a mad frenzy of activity. At one point, I saw five all a flutter. Sometimes it was territorial behaviour, but other times the males were in hot pursuit of a freshly emerged female.

As the morning progressed, the shadows from the trees shifted, and the butterflies gradually moved too, staying in the sunlight. Soon enough they were much closer to the path and I was able to get some lovely closer views as they were flying and when they settled on the leaves. It was such a special moment to see this story unfolding and learn from it as I watched their behaviour. It felt like a good note to end on.

The fox stopped up ahead to look back at me, but rather annoyingly was partially obscured by a tree. Since I needed to head in the same direction, I approached very slowly. It then ran off to the right through the bluebells. I figured it would turn around again, so I waited to capture that moment, only this time I could barely see it through the bluebells. It looked at me briefly and then disappeared into a dense bit of vegetation. I wasn't having much luck!

The poor fox clearly thought I was following it, but unbeknown to it, it was now even closer to my sister’s garden and right by my only way out of the wood. There was a small clearing and it had stopped just behind a branch on the ground. I just knew it could make for a lovely photo if I didn’t startle it. Ever so slowly, I inched forward, being careful where to tread. I kept my camera up to my face and avoided any sudden movements. First, the fox's head came into view, from behind the branch. I took a photo in case it suddenly scarpered. Then, I took one more step forward and I was able to see more of it. I managed to get a few more frames before it ran back into the wood.

It made my day!

See more photos...

Quest To See Green Hairstreaks

Mon, 25 Apr 2022 21:05:25 GMT

Devil's Dyke, Sussex

24th April 2022

“Wow! What’s that?”, was my initial response when I saw my first Green Hairstreak butterfly last year feeding on some hawthorn blossom. A few weeks later I saw another, at the same location (Steyning). Sadly, both encounters were too brief, but this gorgeous little butterfly, which I’d never even heard of before, left quite an impression on me. The vivid green of its underwing was stunning. I fell in love with it immediately and was keen to see one again. The adults only emerge in the UK between mid-April to mid-July. Essentially, I had to wait until this year, only I wasn’t going to leave it to chance, I wanted to go in search of them.

I did some online research on past sightings in Sussex and quizzed my friend Bob, who’d photographed them in the county before and he’d already had sightings this year. I knew they were starting to emerge and I was all fired up and eager. I did a recce earlier in the week at the Devil’s Dyke on the South Downs. Funnily enough, that day I bumped into another nature lover, Keith, whom I’d met the previous year whilst searching for orchids. He was kind enough to walk with me to the location to make sure I was looking in the correct place, which made life a lot easier. However, we didn’t have any joy. It was a bit too cloudy, windy and the hawthorn wasn’t yet in blossom. He suggested coming back in a few weeks.

It was only four days later and more sightings across the county were being posted online and I didn’t want to wait another couple of weeks. The sun was shining, and although it was still a tad windy, I couldn’t resist going out again to the same location. I was supposed to be resting an arm injury – not helped when I use my camera – but the lure and temptation was just too great. So, off I set on my quest.

To be honest, more often than not, when I go in search of something specific, I invariably don’t find what I’m looking for. But, it doesn’t bother me because usually I find something else equally interesting or enjoyable to see, and hopefully photograph. At the very least, it’s a nice walk and lovely to enjoy a picnic out in nature rather than staying indoors. When I left home I wasn’t convinced I’d see anything and even had a back-up plan of going to Woods Mill afterwards. Well, I never made it there!

Spring is such a wonderful time of year when nature is preparing for new life and new growth. It’s no surprise really that I saw lots on this day. I’d not even walked 50m from my car when I noticed a Holly Blue butterfly flying around some Common Dogwood. Out the corner of my eye I also noticed a male Orange Tip butterfly hovering above a disinterested female 5m away. I was torn. The Orange Tips were high on the list of species I wanted to photograph, but almost as soon as I was thinking about going over towards them, they both took to the skies and flitted up and over a building. Decision made. I stuck with the Holly Blue. At least she occasionally rested on a leaf, so I had a better chance of getting a photo. No sooner had I got my macro lens out, she paused right in front of me. Perfect! Thank you very much!

I was just starting to focus on her when I realised she was tucking her abdomen right into the flower bud. She was oviposting (releasing an egg)! What luck! What timing! After she flew off I looked in between the buds and sure enough I could see a white spec. It was time for the glasses to go on! I hadn’t thought to bring my magnifying glass with me. Upon closer inspection I discovered it was indeed a beautiful little white egg about 0.6mm wide with a bumpy surface. Result!

I had a feeling it was going to be a good day! The sun was shining, there wasn't a cloud in sight and even though the wind was noticeable and cooling the air, it was still warm. It was one of the first days in spring when I didn't near to wear a coat. Happy days, indeed!

I ambled slowly along the footpath through a narrow strip of woodland. It was lovely having the company of the birds singing. Every now and then the calm was disturbed by squeals from excited children nearby or when small groups of people chatting walked past me. It was noticeably busier than my mid-week visit and I missed the quiet.

I tried to notice as much as possible around me. There was just a small splattering of bluebells and an occasional Red Campion flowering already - more of a deep pink than red. I have much to learn when it comes to identifying all the flowers and trees, but some names were coming back to me. The Cuckoo Flower was one I remember well from last year, because it’s one of the flowers the Orange Tip butterfly lays its eggs on. I don’t seem to be able to walk past them now without looking for signs of the distinct orange striated oval egg. There was nothing on the first few, but it didn’t take long before I found three single eggs on separate flowers. I’ll have to go back another time to see how they're doing.

When I got down low to the first flower, I suddenly realised I was a foot away from a pair of mating Crane Flies. They didn’t seem to mind my presence and continued about their business. One had its wings spread open and the pattern is rather lovely when the light is shining through them.

I passed by the spot where Keith had shown me the Townhall Clock flower earlier in the week. He explained how this tiny green flower is an Ancient Woodland indicator. You can see how it gets one of its common names. It was nestled in at the base of the trees on a bank and you’d never know it was there if you weren’t looking closely. Certainly, the young boy swinging on the branch of the tree as I walked past had no idea.

Not far from there I saw my first shrew. Unfortunately, it wasn’t alive, but I stopped to take a photograph all the same. Having never seen one before, I was curious and noticed its characteristic long snout (which was how I knew what it was). Just how it had reached its demise was unclear. I’ve read they’ve very fast and need to feed every 2-3 hours. They only live for about a year, so maybe it just died of natural causes.

When I emerged from the woodland, I welcomed the sight of the clear blue sky. The steep hillsides of the dyke rose up on either side of me as I walked along the valley floor near a row of trees. I kept my eyes fixed on them, looking for any signs of movement. There was nothing at first, even after I rounded the corner. Then a few Speckled Woods briefly raised my hopes. By this point my stomach was grumbling so I got out some food. Cue: something interesting happened! I’m pretty sure I was in mid-munch when I noticed two very small butterflies flying in what can only be described as a mad frenzy, near the top of the tree. I knew this was likely to be territorial behaviour, hopefully of Green Hairstreaks. But, damn, they were quick! It was no good trying to use my binoculars to ID them, because their flight path was extremely erratic. But, for the first time, I had hope!

That nice relaxing picnic I’d envisaged – it didn’t happen! I ate the rest of my wrap standing up. I made a mental note of the tree where I’d seen the butterflies and then continued along the line of them until there was a gap and a path going up. I needed to be on the hillside, so I had a better view. I scrambled up the steep slope a short way and walked through the taller grass on the other side of the trees and scrub. Almost immediately, I noticed the wind had dropped. I knew the butterflies would favour a sheltered spot, so again, felt reassured. I’d only passed a few trees and then once again I noticed more manic flying. This time there were five of the tiny little butterflies, all trying to stake claim to the same hawthorn tree. It wasn’t until one settled on the leaves virtually right in front of me, its unmistakable green colour shining brightly in the sun, that I finally smiled. Yay!

The Green Hairstreaks were most obliging and I was able to get several photos of them on the leaves, grass and flowers (though the hawthorn itself wasn’t in blossom yet). I was spoilt for choice and sometimes didn’t know which one to photograph! I took my time and experimented with different settings and lenses. I love using the macro lens and seeing the smaller details, like how hairy they are and noticing how there’s a small bit of green in between their eyes. One very kindly unrolled its proboscis (long tubular sucking organ for feeding on flowers) and appeared to be licking its forelegs.

They were so well camouflaged on the leaves. They only had to be angled a particular way and you would lose sight of them, even though you knew they were there. But, when the sun caught the underwing, that green just shimmered and shone so vibrantly, it was a dead giveaway.

Trying to catch them in flight might have been considered a fool’s errand. I certainly didn’t try for long as it was near on impossible. Generally, the best solution was to pre-focus on an area and wait for one to fly into the frame. This is the better of the two photos I decided to keep, merely because it’s great to see the contrasting colour of the upperwing – a rather dowdy brown comparatively.

Since I hadn’t even walked back to the tree where I’d seen the first two flying around, I eventually moved on. I was hopeful I might see more. Fleetingly, I wondered if I’d be lucky enough to see a mating pair. But the chances seemed so slim. I’ve read the males emerge ahead of the females in many butterfly species, because the females mate almost immediately after emerging. However, I had no idea if any of the females had emerged yet.

The Green Hairstreaks weren’t the only butterflies on the block, though certainly their number dominated. A solitary yellow Brimstone glided by swiftly a few times. A Peacock did much the same. Only a mottled brown Dingy Skipper came close enough for me to photograph it. It's incredibly small and they're very easy to miss.

On my previous visit, I’d spotted a silk nest on one of the branches. It was the home of some Lackey Moth caterpillars. It was good to see them still growing and thriving. I found another nest later with smaller caterpillars covering it. Even though the nests weren’t that close to me, I appreciated the fact they weren’t flighty and easier to photograph!

I paused to look for more hairstreaks when I reached the tree where I’d seen them flying earlier. Conveniently, there was one solitary one right in front of me. I looked up higher and spotted the silhouette of a mating pair on the edge of the tree. I couldn’t believe my luck! I got the binoculars out to get a better view as they weren’t that close and took a few photos. But, it wasn’t until a bit later that the sun was shining on them. Needless to say, I was thrilled! I contemplated waiting for the mating to be over, however, I had no idea how long that would be and they weren’t in a hurry to get the job done. Eventually, I left them to it, as I’d already been so lucky with everything I’d seen. It had been an amazing afternoon. That wasn’t even the end of it.

After walking through the grass, avoiding the brambles and tree shrubs, I neared a vertical path that would lead me down to the valley floor again. Just at the last moment, I suddenly noticed an Adder basking in the afternoon sun. It was aware of my approach and was already alert, looking my way. It was quite dark compared to some others I’d seen the previous weekend (that had already shed their skin). When it slithered off into the scrub, I noticed it was relatively short too, so a younger one. What a bonus though and a nice way to end the day.

I was so happy to get such great sightings of the Green Hairstreak butterflies. They’re such beauties! I felt inspired to write about it and share my experience. I hope you’ve enjoyed reading.

I paused to look for more hairstreaks when I reached the tree where I’d seen them flying earlier. There was one solitary one right in front of me. I looked up higher and spotted the silhouette of a mating pair on the edge of the tree. I couldn’t believe my luck! I got the binoculars out to get a better view as they weren’t that close and took a few photos. But, it wasn’t until a bit later that the sun was shining on them. Needless to say, I was thrilled! I contemplated waiting for the mating to be over, however, I had no idea how long that would be and they weren’t in a hurry to get the job done. Eventually, I left them to it.

I’d been so lucky with everything I’d seen that day. It had been an amazing afternoon. That wasn’t even the end of it!

I was so happy to get such great sightings of the Green Hairstreak butterflies. They’re such beauties! I felt inspired to write about it and share my experience. I hope you’ve enjoyed reading.

Searching For Mountain Hares

Tue, 15 Mar 2022 18:40:48 GMT

An adventure in the Scottish Highlands

2022

There are a few different species of hare in the UK, the Brown or European Hare ( Lepus europaeus ), the Scottish Mountain Hare ( Lepus timidus scoticus ), which can also be found in the Peak District, and the Irish Hare ( Lepus timidus hibernicus ), which is currently considered a sub-species of Mountain Hare but might actually be a separate species. The Mountain Hare is very similar to the Brown Hare in that it has long ears and hind legs, can run fast, doesn’t live in a burrow and is crepuscular (active at twilight) or nocturnal (active at night). However, unlike it’s brown relatives, in winter the Mountain Hare’s fur moults from brown to white (or partly white) to blend in with its surroundings in the northern and higher parts of the UK. It also has longer hind feet with thick fur for ease of movement on snow.

There are a few different species of hare in the UK, the Brown Hare (Lepus europaeus), the Scottish Mountain Hare (Lepus timidus scoticus), also found in the Peak District, and the Irish Hare (Lepus timidus hibernicus), which is currently considered a sub-species of Mountain Hare but might be a separate species. The Mountain Hare is very similar to the Brown Hare in that it has long ears and hind legs, can run fast, doesn’t live in a burrow and is crepuscular (active at twilight) or nocturnal. However, unlike it’s brown relatives, in winter the Mountain Hare’s fur moults from brown to white (or partly white) to blend in with its surroundings at higher altitudes. It also has longer hind feet with thick fur for ease of movement on snow.

Photographing Mountain Hares in the Highlands of Scotland was one of my main priorities on my recent trip to the country. I’d seen fabulous photos of them in their winter pelage hunkered down in the snow, but with an ever-warming climate, it seemed unlikely there’d be that much snow early in March. I was also aware, with limited knowledge on where to find them, that it would be like looking for a needle in a haystack if I couldn’t arrange a guided session with a local professional photographer. This was looking like a very real possibility, as I’d only booked the trip just over a month in advance and all the photographers I’d contacted were already busy. In the end, two photographers were recommended who potentially were available, so I arrived in Scotland hoping for the best but with low expectations.

Photographing Mountain Hares in the Highlands of Scotland was one of my main priorities on my recent trip to the country, especially in their white winter pelage. With an ever-warming climate, it seemed unlikely there’d be much snow left in March, sadly. I was also aware, with limited knowledge on where to find them, that it would be like looking for a needle in a haystack if I couldn’t arrange a guided session with a local photographer. It was a very real possibility, as I’d only booked the trip just over a month in advance and everyone I’d contacted was busy. In the end, two photographers were recommended who potentially were available, so I arrived in Scotland hoping for the best but with low expectations.

I discovered, whilst liaising with the different photographers, that Mountain Hare numbers have crashed in recent years and it’s becoming increasingly more difficult to find them. In Scotland they’re only protected during the closed season (Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981) from 1 March to 31 July. However, the shooting of hares doesn’t paint the full picture as other factors probably contribute to their decline such as disease, predation, habitat loss and the weather.

Early in the week my friend and I managed to arrange an outing with guide and photographer Eoghain Maclean (pronounced yo-in…I think!) With a passion for nature and the outdoors and formerly a mountain rescue volunteer, we knew we’d be in safe hands. He was confident he would find us some hares, which was reassuring. I hoped that wouldn’t only mean seeing one far off in the distance! Part of that concern was due to the added challenges my friend faced, as she struggles with arthritis. She was determined not to let it ruin her chances of seeing a Mountain Hare, but there were going to be some limitations. Having forewarned Eoghain, we set off on a cold sunny morning. Although we were walking on someone’s estate, the joy of exploring Scotland is that everyone has the freedom to roam on any land, as long as you act responsibly (if only we had the right to roam in England in the same way!)

Having forewarned Eoghain, we set off on a cold sunny morning. Although we were walking on someone’s estate, the joy of exploring Scotland is that everyone has the freedom to roam on any land, as long as you act responsibly (if only we had the right to roam in England in the same way!)

We started to walk uphill, slowly zigzagging our way along a track at first. Periodically, Eoghain would disappear off in different directions as it was easier and quicker for him to do so. Every now and then I’d pause and have a look myself through the binoculars at the hillside above and across the gully searching for signs of life. To be honest, as much as I wanted to photograph the hares, just to see one was the first goal. I hadn’t expected the first sighting to be of one within about 20m, running away from us. It had been so well hidden in the heather, we’d disturbed it without even seeing it there! It didn’t run off too far, and settled back down. We took photos of it further away, but didn’t attempt to get any closer.

Eoghain was so patient and kind, finding a route up for us that my friend could manage. He’d periodically check how she was doing and offered a helping hand when needed. If we had to cross over some patches of compacted snow, he’d dig in his heels and try and create some small toe holes for her to step into. With the aid of two walking poles, she managed brilliantly, and in really difficult conditions.

As the morning progressed, a strong cold wind developed. At first, we’d been sheltered from it, but the higher we went the colder and stronger it became. When we reached the top of the first hill/mountain, at an elevation of about 600m, I felt the full force of it on my face as we were walking directly into it. Sometimes, a strong gust made me stagger sideways as if I were drunk. Every step forward was getting harder and slower. I don’t remember a time I’ve been out in such strong winds, in such an exposed spot, with no trees or rocks to take shelter. I looked over my shoulder towards my friend, nervous for her, but with her eyes fixed on the ground she kept going. Thankfully, we’d been prepared for the cold and had loads of layers on. The only place I felt it was around my face and ears. My friend, bless her, was having to work so hard that she complained she was roasting! I asked Eoghain what he thought the wind speed was, “About 40 or 50mph!” came his reply. Yikes!

At first, we’d been sheltered from it, but the higher we went the colder and stronger it became. When we reached the top of the first hill/mountain, at an elevation of about 600m, I felt the full force of it on my face as we were walking directly into it. Sometimes, a strong gust made me stagger sideways as if I were drunk. Every step forward was getting harder and slower. I don’t remember a time I’ve been out in such strong winds, in such an exposed spot, with no trees or rocks to take shelter. I looked over my shoulder towards my friend, nervous for her, but with her eyes fixed on the ground she kept going. Thankfully, we’d been prepared for the cold and had loads of layers on. The only place I felt it was around my face and ears. My friend, bless her, was having to work so hard that she complained she was roasting! I asked Eoghain what he thought the wind speed was, “About 40 or 50mph!” came his reply. Yikes!

So far, there had only been patches of snow on the track and slopes around us, but of course, the higher we went, the more snow there was and it couldn’t be avoided. It was firm underfoot, not too icy, but in such strong winds we reached the point where it wouldn’t have been safe for us all to continue. So, we decided it was a good time to turn around. Sadly, we hadn’t seen any more hares since the first one and there was that feeling that maybe it would be the only one. But, I didn’t want to give up the hope and still kept an eager eye open!

We decided on a different route back down the mountain, avoiding any path and walking through the heather. Although it would be steeper, it wasn't too challenging and we could still zigzag downwards if necessary. Walking over a flatter section first, Eoghain pointed out some hare scat, it was rounded and a little larger than rabbit droppings. It was interesting to see a few scrapes too, where the hares had dug into the ground creating a small shelter from the elements. After taking a few photos, we carried on, glad to have the wind finally behind us. Suddenly, from out of a hidden spot in the heather further ahead of us, a hare bolted and seconds later another one followed, both quickly disappearing out of view. I was thrilled to see them, but at the same time sorry we’d accidentally alarmed them. It would’ve been lovely to see the two together, but more importantly, I didn’t want to cause any stress or disturb the hares.

Despite making our way back down, I still clung on to the hope we might see one more hare. Once again, Eoghain walked ahead, scouting the vegetation as my friend and I went more slowly. When we were about halfway, disappointingly, there was still no sign of any hares and we decided to break for lunch. We were sheltered from the wind, but also out of the sun. The temperature wasn’t much above zero. I was glad I’d made the effort to bring some lovely hot soup! From where we sat we could see three Mountain Goats grazing at the base of the slope, so that was something.

But Eoghain didn’t give up and funnily enough, not long after our break, he located a hare! Finally! Success! By now the weather had clouded over and we’d lost the best light of the day, so it wasn’t the best photographic opportunity, but I really didn’t care. I was just so happy he’d found one close enough to photograph. This is what had made all the hard work worthwhile!

After taking a few photos, we carried on, glad to have the wind finally behind us. Suddenly, from out of a hidden spot in the heather further ahead of us, a hare bolted and seconds later another one followed, both quickly disappearing out of view. I was thrilled to see them, but at the same time sorry we’d accidentally alarmed them. It would’ve been lovely to see the two together, but more importantly, I didn’t want to cause any stress or disturb the hares.

I took my rucksack off and armed only with my camera Eoghain took me down to see it first. We approached the hare quietly, carefully and slowly, making sure we were as close to the ground as possible, doing our utmost not to disturb it. We scrambled low across the heather until the hare came into view. We were above its position less than 10m away. Eoghain encouraged me to move around very gradually into a better position whilst he went back to guide my friend down. I took a few photos taking advantage of the silent mode and then slid across the ground a bit further, then took another. I repeated this process a few more times, but was nervous of getting too close. I certainly didn’t want to spook it and definitely not before the others had come down to where I was.

At one point, I was lying back against the hillside at quite a steep angle, about 10 o’clock to the hare and the whole sunlit valley opened up in front of me. A smile spread across my face as I took in the moment, quietly waiting for the others to join me. The hare was motionless too, with its large white ears down low across its back, settled, seemingly relaxed, facing outwards too though keeping one eye on me. When I could see the other two near me, I began to inch further across and then started to shuffle down until I was eventually level with the hare, still taking photos periodically. I took several close up shots, but also wanted the context of where we were, so pulled back the lens to include the mountain in the background, and the patches of snow. For 30 minutes we enjoyed photographing and watching the hare, until it shifted position, turned away from me slightly. A noise had unsettled it. Soon after, it ran off. It was a shame, because I knew it’s possible to witness other behaviour when the hare feels totally relaxed, if you stay put long enough. It wasn’t to be on this occasion.

Armed only with my camera Eoghain lead me down to the hare first, approaching quietly, carefully and slowly. We stayed as low to the ground as possible, doing our utmost not to disturb it. We scrambled across the heather until the hare was in view. We were above its position less than 10m away. Eoghain encouraged me to gradually move around into a better position whilst he went back to guide my friend. I took a few photos and then slid across the ground a bit further, then took another. I repeated this process a few more times, but was nervous of getting too close. I certainly didn’t want to spook it and definitely not before the others had come down to where I was.

When I could see the other two near me, I began to inch further across and then started to shuffle down until I was eventually level with the hare, still taking photos periodically. I took several close up shots, but also wanted the context of where we were, so pulled back the lens to include the mountain in the background, and the patches of snow. For 30 minutes we enjoyed photographing and watching the hare, until it shifted position, turned away from me slightly. A noise had unsettled it. Soon after, it ran off. It was a shame, because I knew it’s possible to witness other behaviour when the hare feels totally relaxed, if you stay put long enough. It wasn’t to be on this occasion.

Despite the strong winds, we thoroughly enjoyed our day and were thrilled to see four Mountain Hares. The weather perhaps had been a deterrent for others, as we only saw five other people all day on low ground quite a distance away. It was fabulous having the mountain to ourselves. On our walk back to the car we found some small clumps of white hare fur. It was incredibly soft and I kept a little as a momento. We were also treated to some lovely views of Long-Horned Goats, including a wee kid.

Eoghain explained how 10 years ago we wouldn’t have had to work so hard to see the hares - there’d be that many - even on the lower slopes. In fact, as luck would have it, we ended up having a second outing with him and we didn’t have to walk as high. No two days are ever the same! Before we’d struggled to find the hares, but the second day it didn’t take long before we had three hares all within our view at the same time. We didn’t have strong winds to contend with, but in between periods of sunshine, we had a snow shower. I love the snow, so didn’t mind, though I’d have been happier if it had settled on the ground.

This is the only photo I got of a hare on snow - actually it's in mid-air! It's not great - out of focus and bounding away - an all too familiar sight!

We didn’t have strong winds to contend with, but in between periods of sunshine, we had a snow shower. I love the snow, so didn’t mind, though I’d have been happier if it had settled on the ground.

This is the only photo I got of a hare on snow - actually it's in mid-air! It's not great - out of focus and bounding away - an all too familiar sight!

In the end, we saw five hares that day and I was thrilled because I actually spotted one through my binoculars, though as we got nearer I was worried I was mistaken, it also looked like a rock! We ended up exploring a slightly different part of the mountains where I’d spotted ‘my’ hare and we got some great shots of it sitting side on to us.

My favourite encounter that day though, was one too high for my friend to reach. It was closer to the snow – still not sitting on it mind! She waited below whilst Eoghain and I walked uphill to get a closer look. We scrambled the last part and stayed low to the ground. Then I wriggled along level to it, but slightly obscured by a low grassy ridge. Peering over the grass I was able to get a front on shot of a hare for the first time. Of course, it knew I was there. With its ears semi lifted, it looked at me mildly curious. We didn’t stay long and left it in peace.

For first attempts at seeing Mountain Hares they were both wonderful days and great experiences. The hares might not have been doing much and there wasn’t a huge variety in the setting, but I knew that would require multiple visits and a great deal more time than I had on this occasion. One thing was for certain, I felt sure I’d return to the area another time soon.

Having sat in hides earlier that week viewing other wildlife, I realise that seeing wildlife in their natural habitat, without using any kind of food enticement, is what I love to do most of all and ideally with minimal disturbance or stress. It's the best experience! Having to work hard for a sighting just adds to the adventure and often gleans greater rewards and pleasure than a contrived situation. Ultimately, I truly feel happiest photographing nature in this way and it's what I'd like to do more of in the future.

Having sat in hides earlier that week viewing other wildlife, I realise that seeing wildlife in their natural habitat, without using any kind of food enticement is what I love to do most of all and ideally with minimal disturbance or stress. It's the best experience! Having to work hard for a sighting just adds to the adventure and often gleans greater rewards and pleasure than a contrived situation. Ultimately, I truly feel happiest photographing nature in this way and it's what I'd like to do more of in the future.

To read more about my trip to Scotland click on the link.

See photos...

Wildlife In Scotland

Mon, 14 Mar 2022 08:01:53 GMT

Winter in the Highlands

2022

For quite a few years I’ve been wanting to visit the Highlands in Scotland in the hope of seeing some of its wonderful wildlife. One of my photography friends joined me on my adventure and we stayed in a beautiful cabin-like cottage in Boat of Garten, which boasted a wonderful garden that backed onto a pine forest. I loved our early morning walks exploring, listening to the birds twittering away as the first rays of light shone in between the pine trees. Plenty of bird food was put out in the garden during our week to attract the local wildlife. Whilst the Rooks dominated - I think at one time I counted 12 - we also saw Robins, Blackbirds, Coal Tits, Chaffinches, Blue Tits and Great Tits. However, it was the sight of Red Squirrels deftly running across the top of the garden fence early in the morning, or scrambling down a tall pine tree, that got me excited. After all, this mammal was at the top of my trip wildlife wish list.

But, before I go any further, I ought to backtrack. We had a little detour to WWT Caerlaverock on our drive northwards, which is worthy of a mention. It’s a fair old way from Sussex to Scotland and I was glad I’d had the foresight to break the journey with a two night stay in Carlisle. It was wonderful to explore the wetland centre for a whole day and be out in the fresh air. Previously, I’d only visited the Arundel and London sites, but this one was my favourite for the simple fact there were no netted enclosures and lots of hides to watch the wildlife from. At this time of year, the entire Svalbard population of Barnacle Geese (≈ 40,000) overwinter at Caerlaverock. We saw a large number of them suddenly take to the skies from a nearby field – the sound was quite deafening.

But, before I go any further, I ought to backtrack. We had a little detour to WWT Caerlaverock on our drive northwards, which is worthy of a mention. It’s a fair old way from Sussex to Scotland and I was glad we broke the journey with a two night stay in Carlisle. It was wonderful to explore the wetland centre for a whole day and be out in the fresh air. Previously, I’d only visited the Arundel and London sites, but this one was my favourite for the simple fact there were no netted enclosures and lots of hides to watch the wildlife from. At this time of year, the entire Svalbard population of Barnacle Geese (≈ 40,000) overwinter at Caerlaverock. We saw a large number of them suddenly take to the skies from a nearby field – the sound was quite deafening.

Notably, a large number of Whooper and Mute Swans gathered on a pond in anticipation of feeding, but it was actually the smaller birds I enjoyed observing the most. Aside from the usual suspects, I was glad to catch a glimpse of some Yellowhammers loitering in the hedgerows, Greenfinches squabbling at the feeders and a little Wren - one of my favourite birds - foraging around the water’s edge. The highlight though was seeing a little Bank Vole periodically appear from beneath a low wooden walkway. It never ventured far from cover and retreated extremely quickly. I’ve got several photos of its back end as it darted under cover.

Notably, a large number of Whooper and Mute Swans gathered on a pond in anticipation of feeding, but it was actually the smaller birds I enjoyed observing the most. Aside from the usual suspects, I was glad to catch a glimpse of some Yellowhammers loitering in the hedgerows, Greenfinches squabbling at the feeders and a little Wren foraging around the water’s edge. The highlight was seeing a little Bank Vole periodically appear from beneath a low wooden walkway. It never ventured far from cover and retreated extremely quickly.

At the end of the day we drove to the adjacent nature reserve edging the Solway Firth. The last pleasant surprise of the day was the sight of a Barn Owl flying past us, almost at head height and no more than 10m away. It cast us a quick cursory glance and then continued onward in the search of dinner. Magical! Capturing a glimpse of any owl is always thrilling and quickens my heart.

On our first full day up in the Scottish Highlands we’d booked a Red Squirrel hide near Carrbridge with professional photographer Mark Hamblin. He’s built a wooden hide sunken into the ground so we were at eye level with the squirrels when they were foraging. There were also various natural perches that had been baited with nuts that appealed to the local birdlife as well. Coal Tits were the most frequent visitors, swiftly swooping in to collect some food close to us and disappearing just as quickly. A couple of Brown Hares made a few apperances, mostly early morning when the light wasn't its best. It was such a bonus to see them foraging fairly close. Those large ears didn't miss anything!

Within five minutes of being set up, our first squirrels appeared and we started snapping away with our cameras. Aside from a one hour lull in the morning, there was fairly constant activity from 8am to 2pm, which was fabulous. The first arrivals sat and ate for quite a while, posing for us beautifully on the logs. More wary squirrels though came in, grabbed a nut and retreated to the safety of a tree to eat. Later, other visitors ventured really close to the hide, virtually filling my viewfinder. I never dreamed I’d see one so relaxed and at ease that close to me. I've visited Brownsea Island before - the only place I've seen Red Squirrels in England - but the only time they've come within a few metres is when they're dashing past at speed. Having these more intimate moments were such a joy and privilege and something I won’t forget.

On our first full day up in the Scottish Highlands we’d booked a Red Squirrel hide near Carrbridge with photographer Mark Hamblin. He’s built a wooden hide sunken into the ground so we were at eye level with the squirrels when they were foraging. There were also various natural perches that had been baited with nuts that appealed to the local birdlife as well. Coal Tits were the most frequent visitors, swiftly swooping in to collect some food close to us and disappearing just as quickly. A couple of Brown Hares made a few apperances throughout the day. It was such a bonus to see them foraging fairly close.

Within five minutes of being set up, our first squirrels appeared and we started snapping away with our cameras. Aside from a one hour lull in the morning, there was fairly constant activity from 8am to 2pm. The first arrivals sat and ate for quite a while, posing for us beautifully on the logs. More wary squirrels though came in, grabbed a nut and retreated to the safety of a tree to eat. Later, other visitors ventured really close to the hide, virtually filling my viewfinder. I never dreamed I’d see one so relaxed and at ease that close to me. I've seen the Red Squirrels at Brownsea Island, but the only time they've come within a few metres is when they're dashing past at speed. Having these more intimate moments were such a joy and privilege.

One tenacious little character was intent on caching as many nuts as it could in the general vicinity. This gave us perfect practice for the leaping shots. We had to pre-focus on the end of one perch, because its movement was lightening fast and easy to miss if you weren’t ready! Anticipating when it would dart across from one perch to the next, I’d fire off a quick burst in the hopes that one of the frames had captured the squirrel in flight. In poor light it was challenging using a fast enough shutter speed without the background appearing too grainy, but it was fun experimenting!

The following day we enjoyed exploring RSPB Insh Marshes. I loved walking through the moss-covered birch copses and creating some arty images of the trees that resembled an impressionist painting. After having lunch sitting alongside the River Tromie we returned to the hides in the hope of seeing some wildlife. It was a bit quiet and nothing was especially close, however, it was nice to see some Roe Deer and a female Hen Harrier (often referred to as a Ringtail on account of its white rump) being mobbed by a couple of corvids.

We enjoyed exploring RSPB Insh Marshes the following day. I loved walking through the moss-covered birch copses and creating some arty images of the trees that resembled an impressionist painting. After having lunch sitting alongside the River Tromie we returned to the hides in the hope of seeing some wildlife. It was a bit quiet and nothing was especially close, however, it was nice to see some Roe Deer and a female Hen Harrier (often referred to as a Ringtail on account of its white rump) being mobbed by a couple of corvids.

We finished the day at Loch Morlich, a much photographed and popular scenic spot on the way up to Cairngorm Mountain. It was so serene. The beautiful tranquil water was calm and serene. The white peaks were perfectly reflected in the stillness, that was until some Mallard Ducks decided to go for a swim. It was the best part of the day.

In the latter half of the week we visited the Loch Garten bird feeding station on several occasions, at different times of the day. I’d read online this was a good place to see Crested Tits, which in the UK can mostly only be found in the pine forests of Scotland. Only in the winter are they likely to come down from the tree tops, so it’s your best chance to see them. Sadly, we didn’t see any there, though I was quite enamoured by the numerous numbers of Coal Tits eager for food.

On the evening of my birthday we’d booked onto an Evening Mammal Watch with Speyside Wildlife. They have a hide set up with lights outside and they put out food for wild Badgers and Pine Martens, should they choose to take advantage of what is on offer. Both species are Mustalids, which is the largest family of carnivores. No Pine Marten had been seen for about a week, but the Badgers were regular visitors. I was amazed we saw nine that evening (from two different nearby setts). They poked their noses into every nook and cranny where food had been hidden, one even managed to knock over a log as it could smell something underneath. Like a team of vacuum cleaners, every morsel of food was devoured within about an hour.

On the evening of my birthday we joined an Evening Mammal Watch with Speyside Wildlife. They have a hide set up with lights outside and they put out food for wild Badgers and Pine Martens, should they choose to take advantage of what's on offer. The Pine Martens hadn't been seen for about a week, but the Badgers were regulars. I was amazed we saw nine that evening. They poked their noses into every nook and cranny searching for food. One even knocked over a log as it could smell something underneath. Like a team of vacuum cleaners, every morsel of food was devoured within an hour.

One Badger didn’t have food on its mind at all and, within minutes of arriving at the feast, mounted a female trying to eat. She didn’t look best pleased and tried to continue with her foraging with minimal success. The male was persistent and held on to her firmly with its front paws and also bit the female behind the neck. I’ve seen the same biting behaviour in mating kingfishers and swans and have read this occurs with many other animal species.

One Badger didn’t have food on its mind at all and, within minutes of arriving at the feast, mounted a female trying to eat. She didn’t look best pleased and tried to continue with her foraging with minimal success. The male was persistent and held on with its front paws and also bit the female behind the neck. I’ve seen the same behaviour in mating kingfishers and swans and have read this occurs with many other animal species.

After the Badgers disappeared into the night, for another long hour, we patiently waited to see if any other creature would appear. Secretly, I was still hopeful a Pine Marten would show up. What a great birthday treat that would be! There was a chance some Wood Mice might scurry out, as they were known to do, or maybe even an owl would perch up in one of the trees. My eyes were constantly scanning for signs of life – around the logs before us and the tree where the Pine Martens usually appear from - but to no avail.

Suddenly, someone in the group broke the silence, ‘Pine Marten!’ I looked up and saw some branches moving overhead, but the leaves obscured its occupant at first. After a few seconds it appeared, though it’s dark brown fur helped it stay fairly well concealed amidst the tree. Its creamy bib on the front eventually gave the Pine Marten away as it surveyed its surroundings, constantly alert and wary. Eventually, it nimbly navigated the branches down to the platform in front of us. With a big smile across my face, in awe and wonder, I enjoyed watching it feeding for a glorious 15 minutes. This would possibly be my only chance to see a Pine Marten in the wild and I savoured every moment.

Suddenly, I heard ‘Pine Marten!’ I looked up and saw some branches moving overhead, but the leaves obscured its occupant at first. After a few seconds it appeared, though it’s dark brown fur helped it stay fairly well concealed amidst the tree. Its creamy bib on the front eventually gave the Pine Marten away as it surveyed its surroundings, constantly alert and wary. Eventually, it nimbly navigated the branches down to the platform in front of us. With a big smile across my face, in awe and wonder, I enjoyed watching it feeding for a glorious 15 minutes. This would possibly be my only chance to see a Pine Marten in the wild and I savoured every moment.

One of the main focuses on this trip was to try and see Mountain Hares in their white winter pelage. Luckily, despite low numbers, we had success seeing them on two days with an experienced guide who knew the area very well. Despite the cold, 40mph winds and a snow shower, it was great fun and the highlight of my trip. Whilst we were lucky we didn’t have the difficult job of trying to navigate through a heavy blanket of snow looking for a white mammal known to hide well in plain sight, it was nonetheless extremely tricky. There was still patchy snow cover over the mountains and lots of white rocks that looked suspiciously mammalian! I was fooled several times, but I did successfully spot one! I was well chuffed! Read separate blog to find out more.

I’ve discovered there is an animal more cute than a lamb - a kid! As an added bonus on our days searching for Mountain Hares we also saw Long-Horned Mountain Goats and quite a few kids. What was quite remarkable was that we saw two pairs of twins. Although it’s not unheard of, it’s not common and certainly our guide had never seen it before.

On our final visit to Loch Garten – and still no joy seeing any Crested Tits – I enjoyed watching the other birds. A Great Spotted Woodpecker visited the large bird feeder and, a first for me that week, I saw a pair of Siskins. The male is a striking yellow colour and the female more dull in colour (right).

Earlier in the week I’d seen some other people placing bird seed in their palm. I wasn't sure it was a good idea to engage so closely with wildlife. I prefer to keep a respectful distance. But curiosity got the better of me. I wanted to experience a bird feeding from my hand and feel its weight in my palm. I figured there was no harm or risk if the birds were bold enough to come that close to humans. The important thing was that it was their choice. With plenty of seed on the feeders and perches nearby and scattered across the ground, they didn’t have to approach it they didn’t want to.

Within seconds of outstretching my hand I felt the delicate feet of a Coal Tit on it, and in a flash it was gone. But as the minutes passed, others did the same, or maybe it was the same one coming back for more. I’ll never know. They were unbelievably light and the feet didn’t scratch my skin. It was such a simple act and yet, I have to admit, it was incredibly uplifting and a wonderful experience and probably the highlight of my day.

On that last day, after chatting to a few other locals, we discovered a better place to look for the Crested Tits. So, on our final morning, we got up extra early to make sure we had enough time to squeeze in one last wildlife encounter before we had to vacate our cottage and drive south. We only had about an hour to spare. It was a cold frosty morning and not many people were about. My friend and I loitered in the darkness of the forest by some bird feeders. Quietly waiting. Patiently. Well, fairly patiently! Time was limited. We could hear the birds singing and calling high in the pine trees where the sun was warming the branches. Eventually, they started to venture lower to feed – Chaffinches and Coal Tits as usual were the first. It was a lovely way to start the day, listening to the sound of nature. I glanced down at my watch – we had half an hour left. I wondered if this would be yet another fruitless attempt. I didn’t give up though - hanging on to hope.

I kept peering through my binoculars. Eventually, I saw that unmistakeable crest. I held my breath! Even though I was hoping to see it, I was still surprised! Excitedly, I turned to my friend and silently gestured that we had success. For about 15 minutes we got to watch one flying about and then feeding. Unlike the other birds, it wasn’t so flighty at the feeders, and it took its time pecking at the peanuts. The light was so poor and when they flew off, they were extremely quick. The few photos I got were not great. I witnessed one perfect moment, when a Crested Tit landed on a sunlit branch higher up, beautifully covered in a bit of moss. But, by the time I raised the camera, it had flown off. Opportunity missed! However, I was just thrilled to FINALLY see one!

What a great way to end my holiday!

To read more about my Mountain Hares adventure click on the link.

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Northern California

Sun, 07 Jul 2019 12:41:17 GMT

A mini road trip

USA 2019

Back in the nineties I used to live in Southern California and during that time I ventured further north on a few occasions, but never spent any great length of time in Monterey or Yosemite. I was really keen to return and enjoy exploring those areas better with one of my friends. The idea was to have three main bases: in Monterey, Yosemite and the Sonoma Valley Wine Region, so that it didn’t feel like a road trip, constantly being on the go and living out of a suitcase. To an extent we achieved this, but the problem with America is they have a lot of space! It’s hard to avoid travelling long distances in between the interesting locations.

Things got off to a rocky start before we’d even left the country! For someone who travels a lot you may well ask yourself how I could have managed to pick up my old passport and not my current one, especially since the corners on both the front and back had been cut off! Nevertheless, it happened! Since we were at Heathrow and not close enough for me to nip home I inevitably missed the flight and my friend had to travel alone to San Francisco, something she wasn’t wildly excited about. I reassured her I’d get there as soon as I could! To cut a very long story short, I arrived 8 hours later, after midnight, having travelled via Los Angeles! What I have to say is how wonderful the Virgin Customer Services staff were and it was thanks to them that my mistake only cost me £170! It could have been a lot worse!

I didn’t properly relax and enjoy our holiday until the following morning! We took the scenic coastal route down to Monterey in our hire car. Unfortunately, the clouds hugged the mountains and the coastline for much of that time, only breaking occasionally to reveal the blue sky above. The highlight of the day was our stop at Ano Nuevo State Park. Along our walk we saw lizards, birds and a mass of Elephant Seals basking on the beaches and in the water.

The only excursion we'd pre-booked on the holiday was a whale watching boat trip. Although the weather was fairly dull, the water was pretty calm and flat, so for me, this was a definite bonus. On leaving the marina we saw lots of Sea Lions at the foot of the rockwall and one very large one balanced on a beam below a wharf. A pod of dolphins glided past and we could see Santa Cruz beyond them in the distance. We were very lucky and saw a few Humpback Whales, including a mother and calf and also two adults travelling alongside each other, periodically lunge feeding – bursting up out of the water with their massive jaws agape and engulfing a lot of fish in one go. I’d never seen it before, let along heard of it, so was impressed by the spectacle and their huge size. Getting a good shot was tricky though as you never knew exactly when or where they would emerge.

We were very lucky and saw a few Humpback Whales, including a mother and calf and also two adults travelling alongside each other, periodically lunge feeding – bursting up out of the water with their massive jaws agape and engulfing a lot of fish in one go. I’d never seen it before, let along heard of it, so was impressed by the spectacle and their huge size. Getting a good shot was tricky though as you never knew exactly when or where they would emerge.

After our boat trip we walked around the harbour and spent ages watching more Sea Lions sleeping, playing and swimming in the sea. They have so much character. We were mesmerised! We also spotted a few Sea Otters further away. I was thrilled, as they were the creatures I most wanted to see on the holiday, but I was hoping for closer views. Luckily, we got chatting to a local who recommended Moss Landing as a place where we could see a large number of them, so we drove north. He wasn’t wrong. There were about 20 of them mostly sleeping, floating on their back. There were a few mischievous ones disturing others and it was wonderful to watch them interact with each other. I could've stayed there for hours and would've gone back when there was better light, had the opportunity arisen, but sadly, that was not to be!

We got chatting to a local who recommended Moss Landing, a bit further north, as a place where we could see a large number of them. He wasn’t wrong. There were about 20 mostly sleeping, floating on their back. There were a few mischievous ones disturing others and it was wonderful to watch them interact with each other. I could've stayed there for hours and would've gone back when there was better light, had the opportunity arisen, but sadly, that was not to be!

On our last day in the area we drove to Felton, just north of Santa Cruz, to see a couple of the wooden covered bridges and enjoy a ride on the Roaring Camp steam train, which trundled up the mountain through the giant redwood forests. It was a glorious sunny day and perfect for doing the 17 Mile Drive around the Monterey Peninsula in the afternoon, stopping off at many of the scenic coastal lookouts. Once again, it was the wildlife that captured my attention. At one lookout there was a mass of brown pelicans on one of the large rocks just off the coast, a raft of sea otters in the water and playing almost at our feet were ground squirrels aplenty, darting around the rocks and rolling around in the sand. Gorgeous! From Carmel we drove south along the Big Sur coast, but unfortunately the day was running away from us and soon enough we were driving in the dark unable to appreciate the dramatic coastline.

Once again, it was the wildlife that captured my attention. At one lookout there was a mass of brown pelicans on one of the large rocks just off the coast, a raft of sea otters in the water and playing almost at our feet were ground squirrels aplenty, darting around the rocks and rolling around in the sand. Gorgeous! From Carmel we drove south along the Big Sur coast, but unfortunately the day was running away from us and soon enough we were driving in the dark unable to appreciate the dramatic coastline.

Instead of driving directly to Yosemite we'd decided upon a lengthy detour further south to Sequoia National Park to see some of the largest trees in the world. There was one we could walk through, another we could drive through, we even tried to hold hands round the base of one and didn’t even stretch around half of it! One of the highlights was walking up to the top of Moro Rock to enjoy the fabulous view.

Yosemite National Park was our next main stay. We had five nights in El Portal, just near one of the entrances to the park. It was more affordable, had good facilities and it never took us long to get into the park. It was peak season, so the park was busy, but we managed to get around fairly well all the same, since we either walked or used the free shuttle bus. We did all the accessible walks and a few of the more moderate to strenuous ones, which gave us the chance to really explore a lot of the main parts of the valley. I particularly liked Glacier Point, which overlooks a lot of the main waterfalls - Lower and Upper Yosemite Falls, Vernal and Nevada Falls - and the impressive Half Dome, which is a full day hike (not on our agenda). We returned one evening just in time to see the last of the evening light shine upon half dome’s flat edge and then stayed on to listen to the warden’s free star-gazing talk, which was fascinating and very educational.

I particularly liked Glacier Point, which overlooks a lot of the main waterfalls - Lower and Upper Yosemite Falls, Vernal and Nevada Falls - and the impressive Half Dome, which is a full day hike (not on our agenda). We returned one evening just in time to see the last of the evening light shine upon half dome’s flat edge and then stayed on to listen to the warden’s free star-gazing talk, which was fascinating and very educational.

One of the more memorable hikes was around Mirror Lake. We were almost half way around when we were warned, by others walking in the opposite direction, that the path was covered in water and we’d get wet if we didn’t detour and take a higher route. When we reached the flooded area we ended up scaling the slopes, clambering up over rocks and under a few branches. It turned out to be more of an epic adventure that either one of us had counted on, and there were times I was wondering where on earth we were going, which wasn’t good considering I was leading the way. I tried to follow where others had clearly walked but there were times it wasn’t very obvious at all. We kept edging higher and higher. If ever there were a time I didn’t want to see a bear, that was one of them! As it turned out, I never saw a bear for the duration of our trip, which was a little disappointing!

We both particularly enjoyed the more strenuous walk up to the top of Vernal Falls. We hadn’t planned to do it, but when we were standing on the bridge looking up to it, it didn’t seem too bad or too far and my friend was keen to give it a go. I was a bit apprehensive since I knew it involved lots of steps and I wasn’t sure my knees would appreciate the route back down again afterwards. However, we egged each other on and gave it a go. It wasn’t actually as strenuous but far busier than expected. Since the path was quite close to the waterfall there were times we got very wet from the spray and the rocks were slippery. But, it was worth all the effort as the view from the top was great and I enjoyed experimenting with the slow shutter speeds to capture the movement of the water over the rocks. Thankfully, coming down wasn't as bad as I’d anticipated and I was glad we'd made the effort.

The other thing of note worth mentioning was on the Taft Point hiking trail, when we unexpectedly saw a woman doing a tightrope across a small section of the canyon. There were actually three of them, but we arrived just in time to see the last one give it a go. Despite the fact she was wearing a harness, it still looked like a ridiculously crazy thing to want to do and my heart leapt into my mouth when she fell off. Her ability to get back up onto the line after falling was very impressive. Even if you paid me, I wouldn't try that!

On our final day in Yosemite we headed east along the Tioga Pass to exit the national park. It was 1 ^st July and it hadn't occurred to me the pass might not be open! Only a few days before it only opened for one hour in the morning and afternoon and you weren’t allowed to stop along the route at any of the lookouts. Thankfully, after a few days of warm sunshine, much of the snow had melted and it was no longer dangerous and the day we were due to leave was the first day the pass was fully open. It was probably one of the best days of the trip. There were lots of stunning small and larger lakes with great reflections of the forests and snow-capped mountains in the distance. At Olmsted Point there was another chance to see Half Dome in the distance, from the north side. I scrambled up a large mass of rock to enjoy the views from much higher up, away from all the people at the lookout. I was rewarded with a sighting of a Yellow-Bellied Marmot moving over the rocks not too far away from me!

There were lots of stunning small and larger lakes with great reflections of the forests and snow-capped mountains in the distance. At Olmsted Point there was another chance to see Half Dome in the distance, from the north side. I scrambled up a large mass of rock to enjoy the views from much higher up, away from all the people at the lookout. I was rewarded with a sighting of a Yellow-Bellied Marmot moving over the rocks not too far away from me, which no one else noticed!

Before heading north towards Lake Tahoe, we detoured to Mono Lake, a very old salt lake in the desert. What appealed to me were the unusual limestone tufa towers that originally lay below the surface of the water, but, as the water level dropped over the years, these unusual formations were revealed. We made another detour to Bodie, an old gold mining ghost town, which declined over the years from the closing of the railroad and gold mines and from a fire that engulfed much of the town. I walked along the dusty streets and peered through the windows of many of the town stores, church, jail and saloon. It was even possible to go inside a few houses. Abandoned old cars and machinery stood in the overgrown grass. It was a glimpse into a bygone era that was both fascinating and a bit eerie.

We made another detour to Bodie, an old gold mining ghost town, which declined over the years from the closing of the railroad and gold mines and from a fire that engulfed much of the town. I walked along the dusty streets and peered through the windows of many of the town stores, church, jail and saloon. It was even possible to go inside a few houses. Abandoned old cars and machinery stood in the overgrown grass. It was a glimpse into a bygone era that was both fascinating and a bit eerie.

There wasn’t the opportunity to fully appreciate Lake Tahoe with only time for one overnight stay, however, in the morning we did visit Emerald Bay for a short walk. We had a morning stop at Truckee before reaching the old part of Sacramento, which was another step back in time. With a raised wooden boardwalk, large windows and several balconies made with either wood or iron, I half imagined some drunkard to come hurtling through the swing doors of the saloon as we walked past it. Filled with tourist shops and eateries it didn’t quite have the feel of Bodie, but was an enjoyable diversion.

We didn't have enough time to fully appreciate Lake Tahoe, however, in the morning we did visit Emerald Bay (above) for a short walk down to the beach. After a morning stop in Truckee we headed to Sacramento Old Town, which was another step back in time. With a raised wooden boardwalk, large windows and several balconies made with either wood or iron, I half imagined some drunkard to come hurtling through the swing doors of the saloon as we walked past it.

For two people who aren’t great wine drinkers, spending our last days relaxing in the wine region might not have seemed an obvious choice. However, the decision was based on the appeal of the Calistoga 4 ^th July celebrations, which included a parade down the high street with lots of floats, old cars, horse riders and dancers, then a visit to the fun fair in the hot afternoon sun for a ride on the ferris wheel and walk around and a return trip in the evening to see the fireworks display, which was the highlight.

Aside from a visit to the old petrified forest (where ancient trees that were once covered in volcanic ash have now turned to stone) and the Old Faithful of California geyser (that intermittently jets hot water into the air) we pretty much chilled out on our last few days. The long days of sight-seeing and exploring were catching up with us. We didn’t quite get our picture perfect stay in Guerneville that I’d been so looking forward to. Sadly, we only discovered upon arrival, the hotel had been very badly flooded a few months prior and we weren’t going to get our deluxe spa suite overlooking the neighbouring vineyard. Despite the bank holiday weekend we were able to find somewhere else to stay - a nice swanky hotel in the city for not too dear a price.

We headed back to San Francisco city on our last morning, stopping at the Marin Headlands to enjoy views of the Golden Gate Bridge, at the Palace of Fine Arts to walk around the lake and marvel at its architecture, at Lombard Street to walk and then drive the short stretch of this steep road, famous for its eight hairpin bends and finished with a walk around the very busy Pier 39 for a few last minute gifts and to see the Sea Lions that lounge on the jetty’s of the protected harbour. We had just enough time to visit one of my travel friends from my Borneo trip a few years ago, who lives in San Francisco before we had to head back to the airport.

Although we saw and did a lot in the two weeks, I never once felt rushed or too busy. I felt the pace was relaxed and we took each day as it came, not having too much of a plan, only a list of possibilities that we could pick from. As a keen photographer I'll undoubtedly return someday. I could spend a whole week in Monterey alone, photographing all the marine wildlife. I’d love to return to Yosemite too, at a different time of year, with a view to doing more of the strenuous hikes and focusing more on my photography.

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Tigers In India

Mon, 15 Apr 2019 12:40:28 GMT

Exploring Bandhavgarh National Park

India 2019

This was yet another fabulous wildlife experience booked with Exodus and my fourth trip with professional photographer Paul Goldstein. We were a small group of 14 and based at the Nature Heritage Resort near one of the entrance gates to Bandhavgarh National Park. We had lovely rooms, great food and service, plus a nice swimming pool to cool down. It was needed. I thought the Pantanal was hot, but this time the temperature was in the low 40s all week! It was seriously hot by 9am most days! If you've read about my other trips with Paul, it'll come as no surprise to hear we were woken at 4.30am every morning to be amongst the first through the gates when the park opened each day. It wasn't too much of a hardship since it was the coolest part of the day! I don't even think the temperature dropped to below 20°C, even at night!

Himanshu was our local knowledeable leader, full of enthusiasm and always quick to respond to any issues or problems. He worked hard to make sure we had a great trip, which involved lots of work behind the scenes. There was a great team of drivers too, who took us out in the safari jeeps each day. Despite the severely limiting factors imposed on our safaris by the Indian authorities, such as staying with the same vehicle and driver for the duration of the holiday, restricted to zones within the park and not being able to go wherever you like, we still managed to have an amazing time and that was definitely down to Himanshu and the drivers. I'd been impressed by our boat driver's skills in the Pantanal and these guys in India were just as adept, often having to manoeuver their jeeps on narrow tracks, even when there were 20 others doing the same. Supposedly, we were there during the off-peak season. I dreaded to think what it was like during peak times.

On each safari we had a local forest ranger accompany us to help locate the tigers and tell us the names of the other wildlife we were seeing, including many different types of birds. The knowledge, experience and communication skills varied amongst these rangers, but then again, they don't get any kind of formal training. The incentive for them to be good at their job was the tip they'd receive after each game drive. For the most part I was lucky and had good rangers who worked hard and were rewarded proportionately. They'd check out the prints in the sand and listen for alarm calls from the other wildlife, such as the birds, langurs and deer. Sometimes, it would be so quiet, as if all the wildlife were asleep or inactive, which wasn't too surprising considering the heat! We certainly took refuge from the scorching heat in the middle of the day and only went exploring at dawn and dusk except for the two occasions we had full day safaris.

...For the most part I was lucky and had good rangers who worked hard and were rewarded proportionately. They'd check out the prints in the sand and listen for alarm calls from the other wildlife, such as the birds, langurs and deer. Sometimes, it would be so quiet, as if all the wildlife were asleep or inactive, which wasn't too surprising considering the heat! We certainly took refuge from the scorching heat in the middle of the day and only went exploring at dawn and dusk except for the two occasions we had full day safaris.

Our jeeps were open sided vehicles without a roof. With just three of us in each vehicle, plus a driver, this gave us excellent uninterrupted views of the park and wildlife and it was great for taking photos, but gave us no protection from the dust, sun and disease carrying insects. So, despite the heat, I spent the majority of the time covered up. To help cool me down I sometimes dowsed my tube scarf in water or would pour a little into my hat before putting either on. It was lovely! When we weren't on the move, we'd take shelter under the trees (sometimes referred to as the living room), whilst sitting in the jeep waiting for something to happen. Only on very few occasions did the living room double up as a toilet, when people were desperate to relieve themselves bush style, behind the jeep. Generally though, the rule was no getting out of the vehicle unless we were stopped in the designated fenced off areas for food, drinks and toilet breaks.

When we weren't on the move, we'd take shelter under the trees (sometimes referred to as the living room), whilst sitting in the jeep waiting for something to happen. Only on very few occasions did the living room double up as a toilet, when people were desperate to relieve themselves bush style, behind the jeep. Generally though, the rule was no getting out of the vehicle unless we were stopped in the designated fenced off areas for food, drinks and toilet breaks. Whilst we were waiting for the tigers to appear or move, we were sometimes lucky enough to see other species nearby.

It was vitally important to keep our fluids up during the course of the week to prevent deydration. I've never drunk so much in all my life! On our first full day, two of our group were worse for wear by the early afternoon and they returned to the resort when one of the drivers was going back to collect more cold water. On the second full day, I started to get a headache and made the decision to go back for an hour and a half, along with three others. Thankfully, after a swim and time to chill out in my room I was fine to go back out for the rest of the day. We had the added bonus of seeing Solo, an adult female tiger, when we drove to and from the resort. The first time she crossed the road right in front of us and walk through the trees barely 10m away. It was amazing to see her so close and unphased by our presence. On our return, we saw her lying down in the shade of an overhanging rock.

On the second full day, I started to get a headache and made the decision to go back for an hour and a half, along with three others. Thankfully, after a swim and time to chill out in my room I was fine to go back out for the rest of the day. We had the added bonus of seeing Solo, an adult female tiger, when we drove to and from the resort. The first time she crossed the road right in front of us and walk through the trees barely 10m away. It was amazing to see her so close and unphased by our presence. On our return, we saw her lying down in the shade of an overhanging rock.

In terms of the tiger sightings, they were amazing! Just like in the Pantanal, we had 100% record for sightings across the eight safaris we went on. We saw 22 different tigers in that time. There I was, before the trip, wondering if we'd see any at all! We were just 10mins into our first game drive when our first tiger was spotted! It was a good sign of things to come! However, I ought to point out that kind of 'hit rate' for sightings is incredibly rare! For some of us it was our first time seeing tigers and we were thoroughly spoilt. Paul kept telling us we didn't deserve it! You hear of people visiting these parts and not seeing a single one.

It hadn't crossed my mind we might see multiple tigers together, but we did. There were two groups of cubs that we saw quite a lot of. It was amazing to watch them interacting with each other. The first group was Solo and her four seven month old cubs who were often seen close to some rocks. They weren't small, but clearly not fully grown either. This group were often seen really close to the dirt track and one time, when I leant out of the side of the jeep to try and get an unobscured photo of one of the cubs who was looking straight at me as she lay down, about 10m from me, I felt a little unnerved. I realised I was touching distance from the bank and she might have been eyeing me up thinking 'Mmm...dinner'! Thankfully, she didn't have the speed of a cheetah, nor the inclination to spend any energy, so I was safe. Tigers like to silently stalk their victims. Nonetheless, I didn't linger in the position long!

The first group was Solo and her four seven month old cubs who were often seen close to some rocks. They weren't small, but clearly not fully grown either. This group were often seen really close to the dirt track and one time, when I leant out of the side of the jeep to try and get an unobscured photo of one of the cubs who was looking straight at me as she lay down, about 10m from me, I felt a little unnerved. I realised I was touching distance from the bank and she might have been eyeing me up thinking 'Mmm...dinner'! Thankfully, she didn't have the speed of a cheetah, nor the inclination to spend any energy, so I was safe. Tigers like to silently stalk their victims. Nonetheless, I didn't linger in the position long!

The other set of cubs were Dotty's three male 11 month old cubs who we saw play fighting in the water on several occasions. It was incredible to witness. They'd be up on their hind legs and jumping in the air. I took so many photos! The first time we saw them at the water hole there were only two playing, but on the subsequent visits we saw all three play fighting. On our final game drive, one of the cubs had managed to kill a langur and was using it to taunt his brothers. But, he made the mistake of going into the water with the langur still in his jaws and managed to drop it. The cub seemed very confused when he couldn't find it again. What we witnessed over those few days was something really quite extraordinary and extremely special. Paul told us he'd never seen behaviour like it in all his 20 years of seeing tigers in India! Even the other drivers and guides that spend their lives working in the national park said they'd never seen anything like it before either!

On our final game drive, one of the cubs had managed to kill a langur and was using it to taunt his brothers. But, he made the mistake of going into the water with the langur still in his jaws and managed to drop it. The cub seemed very confused when he couldn't find it again. What we witnessed over those few days was something really quite extraordinary and extremely special. Paul told us he'd never seen behaviour like it in all his 20 years of seeing tigers in India! Even the other drivers and guides that spend their lives working in the national park said they'd never seen anything like it before either!

We had the opportunity to go on an elephant ride whilst we were in the national park. The idea is that you can get closer to the tigers because they're unphased by the presence of elephants and so hopefully get some better close up shots. Paul assured us that it was run by an ethical group and the elephants were well looked after. There's no denying, it's a good source of income for the locals. In countries like India and Thailand they're used to using elephants to work, like in other countries they use oxon and horses. However, it didn't sit right with me. I felt very conflicted and also under pressure as it was a case of all of us or none of us doing it. In the end, I gave in to temptation, but I regretted it afterwards and felt sad. I was disappointed with myself. The experience didn't add to my overall enjoyment of the trip, nor was it an amazing sighting of a tiger. At the end of the day, I prefer to see animals wild and free, not being used for human enterprise. I'd never do it again.

...There's no denying, it's a good source of income for the locals. In countries like India and Thailand they're used to using elephants to work, like in other countries they use oxon and horses. However, it didn't sit right with me. I felt very conflicted and also under pressure as it was a case of all of us or none of us doing it. In the end, I gave in to temptation, but I regretted it afterwards and felt sad. I was disappointed with myself. The experience didn't add to my overall enjoyment of the trip, nor was it an amazing sighting of a tiger. At the end of the day, I prefer to see animals wild and free, not being used for human enterprise. I'd never do it again.

My lasting memory of the trip, aside from the playful cubs, was the snarling face of a female tiger wanting to cross the road. She was about 10m away, looking at me directly, our vehicle being in her path. For that brief moment my face wasn't shielded by my camera. Instead, we were eyeball to eyeball. Her power and beauty took my breath away and completely intimidated me. She didn't look in any way vulnerable. But she is! Sadly, there are people in the world that think it's okay to kill tigers for their coats and body parts. Like so much of the world's wildlife that have been in rapid decline, tigers need our protection. We should stand up for those who can't stand up for themselves and try to take better care of the planet that is our home!

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Jaguars In The Pantanal

Sun, 04 Nov 2018 15:54:29 GMT

Exploring the largest wetland in the world

Brazil 2018

The Pantanal, in Brazil, is the largest wetland in the world and the best place to see jaguars. That means our group of 12 took to the waters of the Sao Laurenco River on speed boats in search of these amazing big cats - the apex predator in these parts. Three boats were at our disposal for the duration of our stay, deftly operated by our experienced drivers, who know these channels and tributaries like the back of their hand. On one boat was Paul Goldstein, a professional photographer who’s passionate, driven and enthusiastic and also our group leader. On another boat was our local guide Juan – or Juanito as Paul called him, on account of his small stature. His expertise and knowledge of the area was amazing, always imparted to us with a smile and great enthusiasm. We would switch around the boats over the duration of our stay to each get an equal opportunity to benefit from Juan’s knowledge, Paul’s expertise or to escape his criticism and endless jokes.

Each of our drivers, Marcello, Berto and Gonzalo, spoke very little English, but we got by sufficiently with excitable outbursts and plenty of pointing whenever we saw any wildlife we wanted to photograph. When we were ready to move on again a simple ‘okay’ sufficed. The system worked well. I suspect the lack of communication skills was a blessing for Marcello, who was always Paul’s driver (and has been for many years) as he had to put up with Paul’s outbursts and frustrated rants when the boat wasn’t perfectly lined up for the shot he wanted. Many a time I saw Marcello shake his head - perhaps he understands more than he can speak! But always, by the end of the boat ride, Paul would show his appreciation with smiles, a handshake and even a hug on those extra special days.

This trip was an adventure, not a holiday! It's not for those who like to relax, sleep in and enjoy breakfast at a leisurely pace or reasonable hour, and by that I mean 7am or later. Many people would probably call us photography enthusiasts crazy for getting up at some ungodly hour. But, we’ll do what we need to it if means making the most of the best light and quiet, special wildlife moments. It was fabulous to be enjoying the quiet waters of the river alone, wildlife spotting, whilst most ‘normal’ people were still fast asleep, even if that wake up call was 4.30 in the morning...No, that’s not a misprint! We’d be out on the water by 5.30am every day, powering down the river.

This trip was an adventure, not a holiday! It's not for those who like to relax, sleep in and enjoy breakfast at a leisurely pace or reasonable hour, and by that I mean 7am or later. Many people would probably call us photography enthusiasts crazy for getting up at some ungodly hour. But, we’ll do what we need to it if means making the most of the best light and quiet, special wildlife moments. It was fabulous to be enjoying the quiet waters of the river virtually alone, wildlife spotting, whilst most ‘normal’ people were still fast asleep. We were out on the water by 5.30am every day.

The drivers did an amazing job steering the boat and keeping their eyes peeled for any signs of jaguar movement, essentially watching for twitching grass and branches. We would help too when we weren’t busy swapping notes on camera settings or discussing previous trips with Paul. He’s certainly an acquired taste and often referred to by some as the ‘Marmite Man’. I can’t think of a better analogy. He's a guide not a teacher, so his approach isn’t one of positive encouragement, nor is he a nurturer of talent. That’s probably why I got so nervous whenever it was my turn to be in his boat, dreading the moment I did something wrong, like under exposing a ridiculous amount or having my ISO settings inexcusably high! Despite his fiery temperament and critical comments, he's been known to praise too! If you’re lucky enough to be on the receiving end, you know you’re doing well! Put it this way, I choose to travel with Paul because I know I’ll get amazing wildlife opportunities and he’ll challenge me to be a better photographer. I learn so much on these trips from him and my fellow travellers.

Despite Paul's fiery temperament and critical comments, he's been known to praise too! If you’re lucky enough to be on the receiving end, you know you’re doing well! Put it this way, I choose to travel with Paul because I know I’ll get amazing wildlife opportunities and he’ll challenge me to be a better photographer. I learn so much on these trips from him and my fellow travellers.

One of the advantages of getting onto the river so early each day was the more comfortable air temperature – usually in the 20s. By mid-morning, though, it was in the 30s! Wildlife spotting most of the hours of the day in that kind of heat is pretty intense! The only respite from the scorching sun was a canopy we’d put up when it got too much or when we were speeding along fast enough to feel the breeze against our skin. When we whizzed around the bends, I’d feel the spray of water on my hand as I grabbed the side of the boat, only it wasn’t refreshingly cool, but warm! More often than not when the boat was going along at speed, it was in response to a jaguar sighting. The three boats would often split up, going down different tributaries to increase our chances of sightings. The drivers were in radio communication with each other, so, when its crackle was heard followed by some inaudible Portugese, we’d hold our breath in excited anticipation. If the finger was raised skywards we knew we were in luck. At full throttle, we’d power our way to its location, often given away by the collection of boats already assembled. Game on!

More often than not when the boat was going along at speed, it was in response to a jaguar sighting. The three boats would often split up, going down different tributaries to increase our chances of sightings. The drivers were in radio communication with each other, so, when its crackle was heard followed by some inaudible Portugese, we’d hold our breath in excited anticipation. If the finger was raised skywards we knew we were in luck. At full throttle, we’d power our way to its location, often given away by the collection of boats already assembled. Game on!

We went on a total of 13 boat rides and in that time not only did we have a 100% record of jaguar sightings, often seeing more than one on each ride, but also we identified 13 different individuals. Both statistics were a first for Paul! I never imagined we’d be that lucky! The jaguars can be differentiated from each other by their unique markings on their face and rosettes. There was Scarface, Mick Jagger, Ginger, the pregnant one and the lazy one (many could have that nickname) to name just a few. They would often be found sleeping or lying down in the shade. In that heat, who could blame them! Often, we’d sit and wait too, in the hopes we’d see them eventually move on, walking along the bank of the river, clambering down to the waterline to drink, or simply skirting the riverside through the luscious green hyacinth that was growing in abundance at the water’s edge or trying to weave through the tangled web of vines and undergrowth of trees. If we were really lucky, we’d get to see them swim too.

...There was Scarface, Mick Jagger, Ginger, the pregnant one and the lazy one (many could have that nickname) to name just a few. They would often be found sleeping or lying down in the shade. In that heat, who could blame them! Often, we’d sit and wait too, in the hopes we’d see them eventually move on, walking along the bank of the river, clambering down to the waterline to drink, or simply skirting the riverside through the luscious green hyacinth that was growing in abundance at the water’s edge or trying to weave through the tangled web of vines and undergrowth of trees. If we were really lucky, we’d get to see them swim too.

The waiting game was sometimes very long - a good couple of hours one time in which we had to endure endless jokes from Paul! You’ve got to be patient! Sometimes the resting jaguar would get up and I’d get all excited, thinking it was on the move. I’d snap a few shots only to find it simply changing position and lying back down again. Such a tease! The tough times were when they would sleep in the dark shadows of the trees, obscured by a multitude of branches and leaves, preventing us from getting a clear or interesting shot, which happened with annoying regularity. Whether you got a good photo often depended on whereabouts in the boat you were sitting as it edged forward one way then drifted back another. Plus, there was the added challenge of photographing from the water, made doubly hard when another boat came to join the party, bringing with it a surge of waves that meant I have random images of branches and part of a jaguar!

The waiting game was sometimes very long. One time it was a good couple of hours in which we had to endure endless jokes from Paul! You’ve got to be patient! Sometimes the resting jaguar would get up and I’d get all excited, thinking it was on the move. I’d snap a few shots only to find it simply changing position and lying back down again. The tough times were when they would sleep in the dark shadows of the trees, obscured by a multitude of branches and leaves, preventing us from getting a clear or interesting shot, which happened with annoying regularity...

. ..Whether you got a good photo often depended on whereabouts in the boat you were sitting as it edged forward one way then drifted back another. Plus, there was the added challenge of photographing from the water, made doubly hard when another boat came to join the party, bringing with it a surge of waves that meant I have random images of branches and part of a jaguar!

Though all the sightings were special, three were particularly interesting. The first of these was when we spotted two jaguars together, brothers, tolerating each other’s presence, which wouldn’t have happened had they been mature adults competing for females. We saw them on several occasions. One was definitely bigger and more confident than the other, who was often sheepishly a few steps behind him or skulking on higher ground behind the vegetation on the banks. At one point the guides and drivers realised the two males wanted to cross the river but all the boats were blocking the way. Each one backed off, creating a passage for them to safely swim through. The confident one went first. When he was halfway across he looked back at his brother, who’d chickened out and was heading back to the riverside. The dominant one just looked at him. No sound was uttered. After a short pause, the second one managed to find some confidence and tried again. It was a special moment witnessing the bond between the two.

At one point the guides and drivers realised the two males wanted to cross the river but all the boats were blocking the way. Each one backed off, creating a passage for them to safely swim through. The confident one went first. When he was halfway across he looked back at his brother, who’d chickened out and was heading back to the riverside. The dominant one just looked at him. No sound was uttered. After a short pause, the second one managed to find some confidence and tried again. It was a special moment witnessing the bond between the two.

The third exciting event happened on the following day. A female we’d seen sleeping in the morning, was on the move in the afternoon. We followed her movements for over an hour, as she progressed along the river, realising that she was heading directly towards of another sleeping female. There was a second group of boats assembled close to this jaguar, which had alerted us. When the two big cats were within 100m of each other, our boat moved ahead in anticipation of their encounter. It soon became clear the female we’d been following was the dominant one. As she neared the other, she slowed down, lowered her body, and crept forward with her eyes locked on the second jaguar. Having realised another jaguar was approaching, the less dominant one rolled over onto her back in a submissive way when they were close to each other. There was some hissing and baring of teeth, but no fighting or contact. It was extremely difficult to see as they were in the shadows of the trees. For a few moments, the two females actually lay down with their heads next to each other before the dominant one moved on.

Having realised another jaguar was approaching, the less dominant one rolled over onto her back in a submissive way when they were close to each other. There was some hissing and baring of teeth, but no fighting or contact. It was extremely difficult to see as they were in the shadows of the trees. For a few moments, the two females actually lay down with their heads next to each other before the dominant one moved on. It turned out, they were in fact sisters. We continued to track her as she walked away but eventually we lost sight of her and it turned out she'd double backed towrads her sister. We found the two of them sitting in trees about 50m apart. Some of our group actually got to witness the dominant walk up the tree, quite high, which is very unusual behaviour, but apparently not for these siblings. Seeing a jaguar hug a tree is quite a sight!

It turned out, they were in fact sisters. We continued to track her as she walked away but eventually we lost sight of her and it turned out she'd double backed towrads her sister. We found the two of them sitting in trees about 50m apart. Some of our group actually got to witness the dominant walk up the tree, quite high, which is very unusual behaviour, but apparently not for these siblings. Seeing a jaguar hug a tree is quite a sight!

The Pantanal was teaming with wildlife and it was wonderful to get so many opportunities to enjoy it all. From small insects to large mammals and everything in between, we really were spoilt. Aside from the jaguars, one of my favourite wildlife encounters of the trip occured when I went for a walk alone one time. I ambled along a woodland boardwalk very quietly so as not to disturb the wildlife. I came across two Black-Tailed Marmosets only about 3m away and not much higher above me. I was thrilled and entranced as I watched them for about half an hour deftly moving about the trees foraging for food. They were either unaware or unphased by my presence. It was such a joy and privilege to witness.

My favourite wildlife experience of the whole trip was my very first jaguar sighting, because we spotted it first and got to enjoy the moment before anyone else showed up. We hadn’t even been on the river much more than an hour when Marcello spotted a young female in good health walking along the bank. For five minutes, which felt a lot longer, we excitedly watched as she came down to the water for a drink, then waded through it for a while, slowly, very stealth-like, then she began to walk along a sandy bank in the stunning warm morning light. It was just our boat and her. A wild beautiful jaguar. It was magical, peaceful – aside from the cameras clicking away – and the memory of that wonderful moment will stay with me forever.

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Northern Lights In Norway

Sat, 10 Mar 2018 13:33:00 GMT

A photographic trip to the Vesteralen Islands in the north

Norway 2018

I've wanted to see the northern lights (the Aurora borealis ) for as long as I can remember! I was lucky enough to see the magic of the Aurora australis briefly one night when I was in Tasmania, Australia in 2000. It was very surreal and without having a camera to hand, I simply enjoyed the moment for what it was. It was breathtaking! With more places on land in the northern hemisphere, you'd think the chances of seeing the northern lights would be good, but I've heard countless stories of people returning from holidays without witnessing it. It's not just a case of when there's high Aurora activity, you need good weather - clear skies - so you can see it! Whilst I'd booked onto this group photographic trip specifically to see the Aurora Borealis, I went with low expectations and tried to look forward to all the amazing scenery and possible wildlife we'd also have a chance of seeing.

Prior to the trip I'd downloaded an Aurora app to my phone and had been tracking the Aurora activity for the whole of the previous week, having learned about the Kp level and the chances of seeing the lights. Essentially, the further north you are the better your chances are. Where we were staying sits in the Kp 1-2 band but the majority of Iceland, for example, is in the Kp 2-3 band. The higher the Kp number the better the activity. It seemed that anything higher than Kp 2.5 and it would be worth getting excited!

I've wanted to see the northern lights (the Aurora borealis ) for as long as I can remember! I was lucky enough to see the magic of the Aurora australis briefly one night when I was in Tasmania, Australia in 2000. It was very surreal and without having a camera to hand, I simply enjoyed the moment for what it was. It was breathtaking! With more places on land in the northern hemisphere, you'd think the chances of seeing the northern lights would be good, but I've heard countless stories of people returning from holidays without witnessing it. It's not just a case of when there's high Aurora activity, you need good weather - clear skies - so you can see it! Whilst I'd booked onto this Exodus group photographic trip (lead by Paul Goldstein - with whom I'd done my polar bear adventure) specifically to see the Aurora Borealis, I went with low expectations and tried to look forward to all the amazing scenery and possible wildlife we'd also have a chance of seeing.

We were a group of 18. It was nice to see a few familiar faces from that previous trip and meet some new people too. It was a lovely group of eager amateur photographers or enthusiasts, some, like me, hoping for their first sighting of the Northern Lights and a few returning for more.

I was travelling on my own, but part of a group of 18 booked with Exodus and lead by photographer Paul Goldstein with whom I'd done my polar bear adventure. It was nice to see a few familiar faces from that previous trip a few years prior and meet some new people. It was a lovely group of eager amateur photographers or enthusiasts, some, like me, hoping for their first sighting of the northern lights and a few returning for more. It was a long day travelling north just to reach our location - the Andoy Friluftssenter in the Vesteralen Islands, south of Tromso. I left home at 5.30am and after taking two flights (via Oslo and Harstad/Narvik) we had a two and a half hour bus transfer to the lodge. We'd be arriving at about 8.30pm and our host Nigel called ahead to let us know dinner would be ready and waiting for us.

It was a long day travelling north just to reach our location - the Andoy Friluftssenter in the Vesteralen Islands, south of Tromso. I left home at 5.30am and after taking two flights (via Oslo and Harstad/Narvik) we had a two and a half hour bus transfer to the lodge. We'd be arriving at about 8.30pm and Nigel, our host, called ahead to let us know dinner would be ready and waiting for us.

As we were travelling towards our accommodation my phone app was indicating Kp 3 for our present location! A few of us had even been chatting about how good it would be to see the lights on our first night. I didn't dare hope! I never imagined we'd actually see if from the bus! My face was plastered to the window, with the curtain pulled across behind me to block out the interior light. It was unmistakable! A stream of dull green light rose up in the distance, beyond the silhouetted mountains, and extended across the sky above us. It was amazing to have a relatively calm moment to enjoy it, unable to take photos as there were no plans to stop. The spectacle continued whilst we were caged in the bus and the further north we travelled the greater the tension became. We were all so eager to photograph the phenomenon and anxious because it might all be over by the time we reached our destination. Even Paul, who's seen it many times, was just as frustrated as us. What he did warn us about, was that if there was activity on our first night, we wouldn't be stopping for dinner or unpacking, we'd quite literally get out with our cameras and start photographing immediately. He wasn't joking. I knew him well enough to take him at his word.

The spectacle continued whilst we were caged in the bus and the further north we travelled the greater the tension became. We were all so eager to photograph the phenomenon and anxious because it might all be over by the time we reached our destination. Even Paul, who's seen it many times, was just as frustrated as us. What he did warn us about, was that if there was activity on our first night, we wouldn't be stopping for dinner or unpacking, we'd quite literally get out with our cameras and start photographing immediately. He wasn't joking. I knew him well enough to take him at his word.

I used the time on the bus to get the camera settings ready for the night photography. Paul had already given us some tips. If you want to capture some good images, you must have a tripod, should use a cable release and take long exposures, usually anywhere between 5 and 25 seconds, depending on the intensity and movement of the light.

I used the time on the bus to get the camera settings ready for the night photography. He'd already given us some tips earlier on the journey. If you want to capture some good images, you must have a tripod, should use a cable release and take long exposures, usually anywhere between 5 and 25 seconds, depending on the intensity and movement of the light. Upon our arrival, we were at least given the keys to our cabins. Thankfully, I'd been organised and had packed all the warm layers at the top of my suitcase. They were needed as it was -15°C outside! I put my head torch on over the top of my cosy fleece hat and got my tripod ready. This meant attaching my camera to it whilst still indoors, so I could see what I was doing. I was ready for action!

Upon our arrival, we were at least given our cabin keys. But we were expected to be as quick as possible getting ready to go out straight away. Thankfully, I'd been organised and had packed all the warm layers at the top of my suitcase. They were needed as it was -15°C outside! I put my head torch on over the top of my cosy fleece hat and got my tripod ready. This meant attaching my camera to it whilst still indoors, so I could see what I was doing. I was ready for action!

Looking back on it now, it was quite amusing how chaotic things were on that first night. With so many people trying to get set up in the dark, some not having mastered how to use their tripod yet, torches were going on and off intermittently, much to the annoyance of others. Any local ambient light, whether it's from house lights, torches and cars will affect the image. 'Get those lights off!' was yelled out on more than one occasion (by Paul)!

We began the evening at the lodge and down on the beach just by the fjord, then we were driven down the road to the dam where we could get good reflections of the light in the ice and water. That was when I got this photo (left). It was one of those happy accidents. The exposure was only supposed to be about 20s but it ended up being 44s by accident. I was only standing on the wall for half that time, which is why I look like a hologram. Once I realised the potential, later in the week I had some fun getting creative (below).

There was lots of experimenting with the length of exposure, which was all quite fun, at the same time as trying to find interesting foreground. The good thing about using a tripod and cable release is you don't have to have your eye fixed to the view finder in the camera, so you can actually enjoy watching the lights with the naked eye at the same time. Whilst the long exposures are what you need to see the bright glow of green that you so commonly see in Northern Lights photos, I was amazed by how easily you could actually see the light and how it moved. It just wasn't as bright. Time flew by that night! I couldn't believe it was 11pm when we finally returned to the lodge. I said to Nigel, our host, "I guess we've missed dinner then!" I was wrong! Our delicious dinner was still waiting for us! Needless to say, we were late to bed that night.

The pressure was off once we saw the lights on our first night! The fact we saw the lights on all four nights was incredibly lucky, not to mention remarkable! What a blessing. We really were spoilt! On the second night we sat around in the comfy sofas of the reception, near the warm fire, chatting as we waited for any signs of Aurora activity, this time having eaten our dinner early in preparation. There was some light that evening but not for as long, or as impressive. You can't be amazing every time!

Time flew by that night! I couldn't believe it was 11pm when we finally returned to the lodge. I said to Nigel, our host, "I guess we've missed dinner then!" I was wrong! Our delicious dinner was still waiting for us! Needless to say, we were late to bed that night.

The best night was the third night! From between about 9pm and midnight, we were out taking photographs. Paul got some of us to crawl on the edge of the frozen lake to try some more interesting shots with the natural ice sculptures in the foreground. I was very nervous about doing this and was sliding about on my bum! Periodically hearing the noise of the ice as it eerily creaked was incredibly unnerving! Thankfully, there were no cracks, no falls and no one fell into the freezing water!

The best night was the third night! We were out from between 9-12pm. Paul got some of us to crawl on the edge of the frozen lake to try some more interesting shots with the natural ice sculptures in the foreground. I was very nervous about doing this and was sliding about on my bum! Periodically hearing the noise of the ice as it eerily creaked was incredibly unnerving! Thankfully, there were no cracks, no falls and no one fell into the freezing water!

That night I was really spellbound by the beauty of the northern lights. At one point, I didn't know in which direction to look. There was so much activity and it was all so amazing. So, I just had to tilt the camera skywards to try and capture the magnitude of the movement above us (right - using a fisheye lens). It was truly magical and an unforgettable experience.

When the light show had vanished I returned to my cabin with my cabin mates who went off to bed quickly. I knew I wouldn't get to sleep straight away, so I uploaded photos to my computer. At 12.45pm I was finally ready to go to bed, I had one last peak out of the window, just in case there was any activity outside...and there was! I called out to the others, unsure if they were still awake or tempted to get out of their warm bed. "I hate to tell you guys, but there's activity outside and it's pretty good!" I quickly got ready again and was out the door in no time. The others needed a bit more time to get dressed again.

I got my coat back on and picked up my gear quickly and was out the door in no time. The others had to get dressed again. Outside I was met by Paul who'd just appeared from his cabin with the same idea. Not everyone ventured out. I suspect many were fast asleep or just too cold and tired to get out of bed! But, those of us that had made the effort were driven back down to the dam. We spent another hour photographing the lights. I kept finding new perspectives and the light kept changing giving us so much variety. I was so glad I went back out as I got some fabulous shots and one of my favourites from the week (right). The rays of light mightn't be dynamic or creating pretty shapes, but I love how they disect the frame and create a certain symmetry with the road that leads your eye into the shot.

I didn't get to bed that night until about 2am!

Outside I was met by Paul who'd just appeared from his cabin with the same idea. Not everyone ventured out into the cold again. But, those of us that did headed back to the dam. We spent another hour photographing the lights. I kept finding new perspectives and the light kept changing giving us so much variety. I was so glad I went back out as I got some fabulous shots and one of my favourites from the week (right). The rays of light might not be dynamic or creating pretty shapes in the sky, but I love how they disect the frame and how the road leads your eye to the light.

By the fourth night I wouldn't say we were blasé about it all, but there was definitely a calmer air amongst the group. Everyone was polite about where they were positioned, not wanting to be in someone's shot. Many would check with others first before putting on their torch lights. Since we had already bagged loads of great photos it gave us the chance to be really adventurous and try different things. We didn't snap away every minute of the whole light display. There was time to soak it up and digest the experience and really be in the moment...and there were so many moments! I never dreamed it would be so good, so varied and so amazing. There aren't enough superlatives to describe the wonder of it all!

I didn't get to bed that night until about 2am!

Despite the late nights, I still managed to get up early in the morning for sunrise most days. I'd catch up on sleep after the holiday! There's something quite wonderful about being up at the crack of dawn with no one else around (usually). It's so peaceful and I feel really at one with nature. It's my favourite part of the day. I love the snow too, so to capture the first light crowning the snow capped mountains and to get some nice reflections was a perfect start to my days. A few times I was lucky enough to spot some Sea Otters, but they were always quite some distance away. Although wildlife watching wasn't high on the priority list for this holiday, I was very pleased to see a White-Tailed Sea-Eagle, Elk (Moose) and some Bewick Swans.

The trip wasn't all about the northern lights as we had plenty of time to explore during the daytime and had a few organised outings providing inspiration for landscape photography. In fact, I particularly enjoyed just going out for a relaxing wander with no agenda photographing whatever inspired me. It's wonderful having time to really notice everything around you. That's when I'm the happiest. Since the sun never got that high in the sky, the light was pretty good all day. I barely saw a cloud all week. One time we had a fabulous excursion to a frozen lake. Some people attempted ice fishing, which didn't appeal to me. I was in my element taking photos of the beautiful scenery. We all came together after for some lunch sitting around a fire. On our return to the lodge, a small group of us were dropped off part of the way back so we could walk the last stretch. One person in the group had a lensball for us to experiment with, wich was fun. We'd also used it when we visited a beach on the northern end of one of the islands. I'd brought some neutral density filters with me so I could experiment with slow shutter speeds as the tide lapped the sandy beach.

One time we had a fabulous excursion to a frozen lake. Some people attempted ice fishing, which didn't appeal to me. I was in my element taking photos of the beautiful scenery. We all came together after for some lunch sitting around a fire. On our return to the lodge, a small group of us were dropped off part of the way back so we could walk the last stretch. One person in the group had a lensball for us to experiment with, wich was fun. We'd also used it when we visited a beach on the northern end of one of the islands. I'd brought some neutral density filters with me so I could experiment with slow shutter speeds as the tide lapped the sandy beach.

The dramatic landscape of the Norwegian fjords is remarkable. I always thought I'd do a cruise to see it, but now I'm glad I had the opportunity to see it by land. We only scratched the surface really and I'd love to go back. There were things I would've loved to have done, but didn't have time for, like cross country skiing and snow shoeing. I'll just have to go back another time. The Andoy Friluftssenter was an amazing location and I'd definitely stay there again so I can explore more the beautiful Vesteralen Islands.

See photos...

Orangutans In Borneo

Sun, 03 Sep 2017 16:40:15 GMT

Discovering the wildlife of Sarawak and Sabah, North Borneo

Malaysia 2017

I had an amazing tour in the Malaysian part of Borneo with a fabulous group of people, which was booked with Exodus. There were 15 of us in total, with a mix of solo travellers and couples and a good age range too, with most in the 30s to 50s. Unfortunately, it rained loads, which could've resulted in lots of moaning, but no one did! Instead, we all made the best of the bad weather and didn’t let it detract from having a fantastic holiday. I’d expected rain, since we were in a tropical rainforest most of the time, but just not quite as much as we experienced! After our first day it rained every day of the tour bar one, mostly in the afternoon and into the evenings and sometimes incredibly heavy and thundery. Even our tour guide had never known it to be so bad and it wasn't typical for the month. It was a blessing that it was at least warm rain! When it wasn’t raining, it was hot and humid and we were sweating from every pore! Despite the relatively constant discomfort of being either wet or sweaty, it made all the experiences that much more amazing and appreciated!

We stayed in some really fabulous places, particularly when we were visiting the various National Parks and Rainforests! The four worth noting were the garden cottages in Mulu National Park (fabulous accommodation right next to the forest), Sepilok Jungle Resort (with beautiful gardens, swimming pool and close to the Orangutan and Sun Bear sanctuaries), Myne Resort on the Kinabatangan River (beautiful gardens, lovely rooms and great views out over the river with fabulous wildlife spotting along the river) and best of all, the luxurious Borneo Rainforest Lodge in Danum Valley, which was simply idyllic and the best of them all in every way!

So I thought I'd present my Top Ten highlights from the trip, in reverse order:-

10) Red Leaf Monkeys – I saw these cute colourful monkeys in Danum Valley, which is a protected area of pristine primary rainforest. On our first two sightings, these primates were a little distance away, sitting in the trees as we drove into the area on our first day and also on one of our walks. But a few of us had an even better viewing on our last morning. They were in the trees low down and very close to our lodge. They seemed as curious about us as we were of them. Unfortunately, we couldn’t watch them for hours as we had to check out of our rooms and leave!

9) Macaques - There were plenty of both Long Tailed and Stump Tailed Macaques in Bako National Park, Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary and on the Kinabatangan River. They were very cute and cheeky, and like the baboons of Africa, usually up to mischief! In Bako I saw one approach the cafe and walk along the wall where people were sitting and when a man turned away for one second, the macaque went in for his chocolate sponge and ran off with it! At Sepilok, when our group were hoping to see orangutans at one of the feeding sessions, there was a whole load of macaques there instead. Whilst it meant the orangutans stayed away, the macaques were great to watch. My favourite experiences though were when we saw them beside the river late in the afternoon, when they build their nests for the night. There was a particularly large number of babies in one group and it was so fun to see them in the wild playing together and exploring their new world.

At Sepilok, when our group were hoping to see orangutans at one of the feeding sessions, there was a whole load of macaques there instead. Whilst it meant the orangutans stayed away, the macaques were great to watch. My favourite experiences though were when we saw them beside the river late in the afternoon, when they build their nests for the night. There was a particularly large number of babies in one group and it was so fun to see them in the wild playing together and exploring their new world.

8) Caves and Bats - Borneo has some amazing limestone caves. Deer Cave in Mulu was just massive – the biggest I’ve ever seen – and it links to other caves nearby, making it the second largest cave system in the world. One of the largest sections measured 174m wide and 122m high. Deer Cave is also well known for its bat exodus at dusk and luckily for us the rain eased just long enough for us to witness this amazing spectacle. They come up out of the cave and fly around in a circle above and then fly off. Groups of them do this repeatedly. The finale was what seemed like a never-ending trail of bats flying across the evening sky, like a giant slithering snake! There were quite literally millions of them. Very impressive!

At Gomantong Caves there were bats and also swiftlets. Three times a year, for two weeks only, the locals are allowed to climb makeshift ladders to retrieve some of the nests to make bird's nest soup, which is considered a delicacy by some! I can’t say I tried it! The smell of ammonia was horrendous here and I had to wear a handkerchief across my nose and mouth! The guano (bird poop) created a massive mound in the middle of the cave and the place was teeming with cockroaches. It was wise not to deviate from the boardwalk and we got used to never holding on to the railings, anywhere! If it wasn't covered in poop or ants, there'd be other insects, most of which were poisonous! In fact, we saw loads of insects on the holiday and I was surprised by how interested in them I became. We had some fabulous night walks and spotted centipedes, millipedes, scorpions, stick insects, massive spiders and a Bornean Pit Viper.

7) Sun Bears - There was a Sun Bear Sanctuary virtually adjacent to the Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary. The enclosures appeared to be fairly large with a raised canopy walk around much of them, to increase the chances of catching a glimpse of these charismatic bears. There were a few quite big young cubs that were seen exploring their surroundings and digging for food much of the time. However, I was also lucky enough to witness one climb a tree. I saw two play-fighting with each other. They looked like just one large bundle of black fur at first, but for a moment they separated and I got to see the creamy yellow 'sun' on the chest of one, for which they're named.

7) Sun Bears - The Sun Bear Sanctuary was near the Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary. The enclosures appeared to be fairly large with a raised canopy walk around much of them, to increase the chances of catching a glimpse of these charismatic bears. There were a few quite big young cubs that were seen exploring their surroundings and digging for food much of the time. However, I was also lucky enough to witness one climb a tree. I saw two play-fighting with each other. They looked like just one large bundle of black fur at first, but for a moment they separated and I got to see the creamy yellow 'sun' on the chest of one, for which they're named.

6) Birds - I saw a great number of birds on the trip, both large and small. There were many birds of prey and several different species of hornbill, including the biggest, the Rhinoceros Hornbill, which has an impressive casque above its beak. I saw Purple Herons, Lesser Egrets and various types of Kingfisher, including the largest Stork Billed Kingfisher. I had several good sightings of one at the Sepilok Jungle Resort where we were staying. In fact, that was the last thing I saw before I had to leave and catch my flight, so a nice lasting memory of the trip. There were also lots of beautifully coloured little Sunbirds and Flower Peckers and a mass of different types of butterfly (ok, so not a bird, but it falls into the flying category). They were so large and colourful. There is such amazing diversity in the rainforest. Almost every other creature is a giant this or pygmy that. Speaking of which…

6) Birds - I saw a great number of birds on the trip - little Sunbirds and Flower Peckers, birds of prey and several different species of hornbill, including the biggest, the Rhinoceros Hornbill, which has an impressive casque above its beak. I saw Purple Herons, Lesser Egrets and various types of Kingfisher, including the largest Stork Billed Kingfisher. I had several good sightings of one at the Sepilok Jungle Resort where we were staying. In fact, that was the last thing I saw before I had to catch my flight home - a nice lasting memory.

5) Pygmy Elephants - Whilst we were staying by the Kinabatangan River we'd been told a large herd of them were in the plantation area and hadn't been seen bathing by the river for 4 days. Despite being warned there was only a 5% chance of seeing them, a group of 10 of us decided we wanted to try. Of course, within about 15 minutes of setting off in the boat the heavens opened, there was even thunder and lightening not too far off. However, we didn't turn back and I got completely drenched since I was only wearing a flimsy poncho. After an hour and a half we finally reached the place the elephants usually came to the water, but they weren't in sight. It was very disheartening. On the plus side, the rain eased on the return journey and we saw lots of primates by the river. As luck would have it, we did get to see a couple of elephants - a mum and calf - though they were well obscured from view by the tall grasses. We only realised they were there when we saw another boat motionless on the water with a group of people all looking towards the grass. Despite standing on our seats, we were positioned behind the first boat, so we didn't get a great view. I thought I could see a gap in the grass, so ended up sneaking on board the other boat and stood on the bow, somewhat nervously. I was over the moon when I briefly managed to catch a glimpse of the baby elephant's eye staring back at me. It was so cute! It was worthing the cold wet suffering!

Our adventure wasn't quite over as we still had to get back to the hotel, which was still quite far away. Darkness descended and everyone on board fell silent. The local man steering the boat had to slow down as there was a lot of debris to navigate past in the water, as a result of all the rain - and by debris I mean tree trunks and branches. He only had a handheld torch that wasn't very powerful. Thankfully, the old man was very experienced and clearly knew the river well. We arrived back at the hotel safely, but very late, much to the relief of our tour guide who hadn't been with us.

5) Pygmy Elephants - Whilst we were staying by the Kinabatangan River we'd been told a large herd of them were in the plantation area and hadn't been seen bathing by the river for 4 days. Despite being warned there was only a 5% chance of seeing them, a group of 10 of us decided we wanted to try. Of course, within about 15 minutes of setting off in the boat the heavens opened, there was even thunder and lightening not too far off. However, we didn't turn back and I got completely drenched since I was only wearing a flimsy poncho. After an hour and a half we finally reached the place the elephants usually came to the water, but they weren't in sight. It was very disheartening. On the plus side, the rain eased on the return journey and we saw lots of primates by the river. In fact, our luck changed. We saw a couple of elephants - a mum and calf - though they were well obscured from view by the tall grasses. We only realised they were there when we saw another boat motionless on the water with a group of people all looking towards the grass. Despite standing on our seats, we were positioned behind the first boat, so we didn't get a great view. I thought I could see a gap in the grass, so ended up carefully sneaking on board the other boat. I stood nervously on the bow, over the moon that I got a brief glimpse of the baby elephant staring back at me (right). It was so cute and well worth the cold wet suffering!

4) Snorkelling - I'm quite the novice having only been a few times before. Our group were taken to the islands of Kota Kinabalu and to a dive sight known for sharks. Everyone else was eager, but me, less so. I was more than a little nervous. I find wearing a mask and breathing through a snorkel so strange. When I got into the water it took me quite a few minutes to calm my heart rate and get into a pattern of slow, deep breathing. We weren't too far away from the island, so it wasn't particularly deep.

The fish I saw were beautiful and amazing, so colourful! I can't tell you what species they were, but, one was bigger than the size of a plate - vertically tall and thin - and I saw black and white stripy ones and long thin translucent ones. They were all very quick to swim away from me as I approached, which in a way was reassuring! I lost my bearings from time to time, so every now and then I looked up to be sure I'd not wondered off too far from the boat. Eventually, I got tired and edged closer towards it and into slightly deeper waters. I was busy looking at the fish closer to me when out of the corner of my eye I noticed something larger down below about 6-8m away. My immediate thought was 'That's a large fish!' Then it dawned on me, it was a shark! It glided in and out of sight within seconds! (centre of the above photo) I surfaced to inform the others and as they swam towards me in the hopes of seeing it for themselves, I promptly swam in the opposite direction!

The fish I saw were beautiful and amazing, so colourful! I can't tell you what species they were, but, one was bigger than the size of a plate - vertically tall and thin - and I saw black and white stripy ones and long thin translucent ones. They were all very quick to swim away from me as I approached, which in a way was reassuring! I lost my bearings from time to time, so every now and then I looked up to be sure I'd not wondered off too far from the boat. Eventually, I got tired and edged closer towards it and into slightly deeper waters. I was busy looking at the fish closer to me when out of the corner of my eye I noticed something larger down below about 6-8m away. My immediate thought was 'That's a large fish!' Then it dawned on me, it was a shark! It glided in and out of sight within seconds! (centre of photo) I surfaced to inform the others and as they swam towards me in the hopes of seeing it for themselves, I promptly swam in the opposite direction!

I went snorkelling a second time off the beach at Turtle Island. There was no coral reef to swim above, just the sandy beach, and since it was very shallow and a beautiful sunny day, it was excellent for watching the fish. I had another fabulous experience. I saw a really large fish - it must have been over 2 feet long - which was really chunky and box-like, wide and fat at the head but tapering down in size towards the tail. It looked a bit like a Spotted Porcupine Fish, but I couldn't be certain of it and I didn't get a photo! There were lots of miniscule baby fish close to the shore, barely even the size of my little fingernail. They were so cute. The highlight that day was swimming alongside a school of fish, which was utterly amazing!

3) Proboscis Monkeys - They're the ones with the really big nose! They're not the most attractive of the primates, but they're quite adorable all the same. Most of my photos of them were taken at the Labuk Bay Sanctuary. It was one of the rare days we experienced glorious sunshine and so they were easy to photograph. However, I much prefer to see wildlife in their natural habitat. It's far more enjoyable and satisfying and we did see lots of troops along the Kinabatangan River, virtually every time we were out on the boats. The only down side was that it was also usually raining or in poor light, so not so easy to photograph! I was lucky enough to witness a pair mating. Blink and you'll miss it - it was over in seconds!

2) Turtle Island - It's a protected island where Green Turtles come to lay their eggs. It was amazing to witness the workings of the conservation project firsthand having seen a programme about it. During the day there was free time to relax and snorkel, but in the evening, that's when the turtle activity began. I got to witness a female laying her eggs. A ranger collected them and then they were buried in the hatcheries to protect them from predators such as monitor lizards. I was even lucky enough to see the eruption of baby turtles coming out of the sand from eggs buried a few months prior. All of the hatchlings that emerged that evening were taken down to the beach and released and made their way to the water. Every now and then we had to give them a gentle nudge to guide them in the right direction. It was amazing to see, but in the dead of night, difficult to photograph.

Occasionally, lone hatchlings missed being released at night, probably because it's so dark when they're collected. On my first afternoon I saw one, when virtually no one else was near the hatchery. One of the workers picked it up and placed it on my hand. It surprised me, as they weren't supposed to do that and it made me uncomfortable. But, it was impossible not to absolutely adore this helpless little creature that was flapping about on my palm. The following morning another hatchling was discovered. It had missed being released and I happened to walk past just at the right time and ended up accompanying a family down to the beach where they released the little one. It was a lovely moment watching it rush down to the water. I just hoped it survived. It's so amazing that turtles don't return to the island of their birth until many years later, when they're ready to lay their own eggs!

2) Turtle Island - It's a protected island where Green Turtles come to lay their eggs. It was amazing to witness the workings of the conservation project firsthand. During the day there was free time to relax and snorkel, but in the evening, that's when the turtle activity began. I got to witness a female laying her eggs. A ranger collected them and then they were buried in the hatcheries to protect them from predators such as monitor lizards. I was even lucky enough to see the eruption of baby turtles coming out of the sand from eggs buried a few months prior. All of the hatchlings that emerged that evening were taken down to the beach and released and made their way to the water. Every now and then we had to give them a gentle nudge to guide them in the right direction. It was amazing to see, but in the dead of night, difficult to photograph. Occasionally, lone hatchlings miss being released. On my first afternoon I saw one, when virtually no one else was near the hatchery. One of the workers picked it up and placed it on my hand. It surprised me, as they weren't supposed to do that and it made me uncomfortable. But, it was impossible not to absolutely adore this helpless little creature that was flapping about on my palm. The following morning another hatchling was discovered and I just happened to walk past at the right time. I accompanyed a family down to the beach where they released the little one. It was a lovely moment watching it rush down to the water. Who knows if it would live long enough to return to the island (many years later) to lay its own eggs!

1) Orangutans - It's probably not a surprise they're at the top of my list. They were the main reason I went to Borneo. Seeing one in the wild was what I'd hoped for and Danum Valley was where it happened. In fact, within 15 minutes of walking along the road on our first walk, we heard that a flanged male (big cheek pads) called Mike had been seen by researchers who track the orangutans and record their movements. We left the road and headed into the rainforest weaving through all the dense vegetation. Not long after, we were standing at the base of a very tall tree, looking up, trying to catch a glimpse of him. It wasn't easy with branches and leaves partially obscuring our view. It wasn't the best sighting, but we got to see him again on our last morning. His overnight nest was found and we waited ages for a glimpse of him emerging from it. Some of us even missed our breakfast and I got a really stiff neck from constantly looking up. It was worth it though, because eventually he started to move about and feed. In fact, everyone in the group got good views of him a little later when we were leaving Danum Valley. He'd moved to a tree above the road.

1) Orangutans - It's no surprise they're at the top of my list. They were the main reason I went to Borneo. Seeing one in the wild was what I'd hoped for and Danum Valley was where it happened. In fact, within 15 minutes of walking along the road on our first walk, we heard that a flanged male (big cheek pads) called Mike had been seen by researchers who track the orangutans and record their movements. We left the road and headed into the rainforest weaving through all the dense vegetation. Not long after, we were standing at the base of a very tall tree, looking up, trying to catch a glimpse of him. It wasn't easy with branches and leaves partially obscuring our view.

That first sighting of Mike wasn't the best, but we were fortunate to see him again on our last morning. His overnight nest was found and we waited ages for a glimpse of him emerging from it. Some of us even missed our breakfast and I got a really stiff neck from constantly looking up. It was worth it though, because eventually he started to move about and feed. In fact, everyone in the group got good views of him a little later when we were leaving Danum Valley. He'd moved to a tree above the road.

I can't conclude the Danum Valley orangutan experience without recounting the leech experience too. Many of us were wearing special leech socks, which come up above the knees and are worn over your trousers. They're supposed to do the trick along with spraying insect repellent. One woman in the group wasn't wearing leech socks and a leech dropped onto her thigh. I tried swiping it off using my lens cap, but it didn't budge. Instead, it disappeared through the dense material of her trousers to her leg! I couldn't believe it! I thought I'd escaped the leech experience. My roommate and I were very careful to inspect our clothing and bodies for leeches in the hallway of our room. However, I made the mistake of not checking my camera bag! After I'd had a shower and was dressed, I sat on the bed and that's when I suddenly felt a pain in the back of my knee. I knew instantly what it was. I've never dropped my trousers so quickly! Luckily, I was prepared and quickly grabbed one of the small sachets of salt I'd brought with me. The salt was poured on and the leech fell to the floor. Ewwwwh!

I thought I'd escaped the leech experience. My roommate and I were very careful to inspect our clothing and bodies for leeches in the hallway of our room. However, I made the mistake of not checking my camera bag! After I'd had a shower and was dressed, I sat on the bed and that's when I suddenly felt a pain in the back of my knee. I knew instantly what it was. I've never dropped my trousers so quickly! Luckily, I was prepared and quickly grabbed one of the small sachets of salt I'd brought with me. The salt was poured on and the leech fell to the floor. Ewwwwh!

The other place you can see orangutans is at the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre, which isn't far from the city of Sandakan. They help rehabilitate orphaned baby orangutans (from logging sites, plantations, illegal hunting or kept as pets) and return them to the wild. Halfway through our tour we visited the sanctuary. There was a nursery section with all the youngsters learning how to forage for food and to climb. They have a few older orangutans with them to help show them the ropes. These ones all stay overnight at the facility. But, in the larger conservation area adjacent to the sanctuary, are the ones that have been released into the wild. Whilst there are two feeding times, one in the morning and the other in the afternoon, there's no guarantee they'll show up. In fact, they didn't on our first morning. Instead we saw some macaques that were equally enjoyable to watch as they groomed, play and ate. Though many people only come for one visit, we returned in the afternoon, when of course it was raining! There were fewer people and eventually the rain eased and we were rewarded with visits from five orangutans at various times, which was wonderful.

At the end of the tour, when all the others in the group had departed and I had returned from my Turtle Island add on, I decided to spend my last few extra days back at Sepilok rather than the city. I was so glad I did. No two days are ever the same and I got to experience even more the second time. I even got some very close encounters just walking along the boardwalk when I saw two playing together nearby. At the morning feeding a mother orangutan turned up with her little one. Whilst she would have been rehabilitated, the youngster had been born in the wild. I discovered it was her third offspring and the previous ones don't come to the platform anymore, so they've learned to fend for themselves in the wild. It was fabulous evidence the programme was working. The same thing happened in the afternoon, when I ended the day back at the nursery. A different rehabilitated female orangutan appeared from the rainforest with an even younger baby, who was still clinging on to mum most of the time. I watched the pair of them for ages, completely mesmerised, until it was closing time. It was a wonderful memory to leave with!

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New England In The Fall

Sun, 30 Oct 2016 17:40:18 GMT

Exploring the states of Vermont and New Hampshire

USA 2016

New England in the Fall has been on my 'Wish List' for as long as I can remember and now I can finally say I've been and seen the amazingly beautiful autumn colours! The only problem is, I liked it so much I want to go back! After one week in Vermont and New Hampshire, I barely scratched the surface, there's still plenty more to see.

I explored New England with a friend, who thankfully was very patient with my photography, and we hired a car to get about. I had the dubious pleasure of doing the driving, since I'd lived in America for a time back in the 90s and had more experience driving on the 'wrong' side of the road. Unfortunately, trying to find our way out of Boston at 5pm on a Friday evening was not great timing, but we survived. Thank goodness for sat nav, slow moving traffic, planning ahead and having a vague idea of where we were supposed to be going. The downside was it took us five hours to drive north to Waitsfield, Vermont - two hours longer than it should have!

The plan was to have only two bases so we didn't spend the whole week living out of a suitcase. The first half of the week we stayed in a fabulous family run B&B near Waistfield, Vermont. We arrived in New England the third week in October and we'd been told it was past 'peak foliage'. We would never have known it as we thought the autumn colours were stunning and there were trees everywhere! Apparently the first two weeks in October are supposed to be the best. The blessing for us with our timing meant less traffic and fewer tourists.

The first day was probably one of best for me because we had wonderful weather, beautiful blue skies and we saw a bit of everything, covered bridges, waterfalls and scenic roads, as we explored the local area. It was a great introduction to our week ahead. The word of the day was 'beautiful'!

On the second day we were hoping to do a hot air balloon flight, but we didn't get to go up due to poor weather conditions. After eating a lot of pancakes for breakfast in a classic American diner we explored Quechee Gorge, saw our first chipmunks of the trip (cue Mission Impssible music) and explored the cute town of Woodstock, before gradually making our way back north towards Waitsfield.

On our third day we headed west and walked around the cute village of Bristol, drove south to Shoreham and headed towards Lake Champlain and weaved our way up the lakeside. On our final day we headed out early again and saw the morning mist hug the trees. We took in some more covered bridges, drove north to Stowe, where we saw lots of fabulous carved pumpkins, up to Smugglers Notch and then headed east to New Hampshire.

I thought once we left the Green Mountains we would see far fewer trees, but this wasn't the case. A huge blanket of trees seemed to cover the majority of the state and with all the amazing autumn colours, everywhere looked beautiful and all the driving was scenic. Our timing worked out well this day as we managed to avoid any rain. On our way to Jackson, where we were based for the second half of the week, we passed the impressive Mount Washington Hotel, which was bathed in the early evening light. The following day we had hoped to get up the mountain via the cog railway but despite leaving Jackson in sunshine, the mountain was shrouded in cloud.

Jackson was nestled in the heart of the White Mountains and proved a great base for us. We stayed in a quaint old Victorian B&B built in 1902. It was like stepping back in time and we loved it. On our first full day in the area we explored both Crawford and Franconia Notch and were blessed with some more sunny weather. Our day was filled with scenic walks, breathtaking views, waterfalls and wildlife. I especially enjoyed watching a squirrel stuffing it's mouth with leaves. I've heard how they cache food in their mouth, but this one looked like it was stashing materials to make a nice cosy nest in preparation for winter. It let us watch for a while before scampering off.

From Franconia Notch we headed a little further south to the impressive Flume Gorge. This was a memorable stop as there was so much variety in the one place. From sheer gorge walls and waterfalls to covered bridges and breathtaking views. Plus more wildlife! We spent a fabulous afternoon exploring the area. We finally finished the day with a drive along the Kangamagus Highway.

Though the weather was not as bright and sunny towards the end of our trip, we still enjoyed all our walks and scenic drives, especially the local Jackson Falls. I actually took photos again two days later after the rain and you could see how the trees were starting to change colour and how there was a lot more water cascading down the falls.

We drove south to Cathedral Ledge, which aforded great views over the area and as a bonus I spotted a cute little chipmunk munching on blades of grass. We could see Echo Lake far below us, which we later walked around. In the height of summer you could imagine the swarms of people who would inevitably flock to the beach here. Along the path at one point a dead tree blocked our way. After climbing over, I decided to take a photo of the pattern in the trunk. Suddenly, a little head popped out and a chipmunk appeared. I'm not sure which of us was more startled.

It rained on our last full day and by now I had developed a cold, so it was nice to have a break from driving and relax. We did a spot of shopping and then spent the afternoon sitting on the wraparound porch chatting, reading and watching the birds and rain. On our final day we managed to avoid the patches of rain most of the day, so we were still able to explore, weaving along quiet country roads, walking around Meredith on the edge of Lake Winniepasaukee, as we gradually headed back towards Boston.

I ought not to finish this little adventure without mentioning the food! Our breakfasts were so big every morning we often didn't need to eat much during the day. The first Inn was the best for breakfast with virtually everything you could want on offer! The second Inn in Jackson was great for it's afternoon cookies! Be warned about portion sizes though when eating out! At one place we shared a starter and it was still double the size it needed to be! It was all very tasty though!

I had such an amazing week and New England didn't disappoint! Whilst we saw plenty, it was at such a relaxed pace, with no fixed itinerary. Often we just chose a direction to head in and this worked well for us. I'd love to go back again!

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Polar Bears In The Arctic

Thu, 21 Jul 2016 16:40:17 GMT

At sea on a photographic adventure around the Svalbard Archipelago

Norway 2016

In July 2016 I went on an amazing 14 day Polar Bear Photographic Expedition to Svalbard, Norway with Paul Goldstein and One Ocean Expeditions and one of my friends. This truly was a once in a lifetime, memorable experience and didn't disappoint! Paul had said in his email to us just before the trip, get plenty of sleep before you come! We would have 24 hours of daylight and the plan was to use as much of it as possible!

We had two days of travelling to get to/from Longyearbyen, Svalbard – the most northerly permanent populated town in the world. They were not the best two experiences I’ve had and I wouldn’t recommend Scandinavian Airlines or Oslo Airport as a result, however, we got there eventually via Oslo and Tromso.

We had a brief walk around Longyearbyen on arrival (and longer on our return). I was not expecting it to be 12°C! (By the way, at this point we were 3,043km from London). There isn’t much to the old mining town; a museum, art gallery and a few shops and cafés, pretty much all along one main street. On the return leg we did enjoy a lovely walk along the shoreline, spotting lots of birds and enjoying some amazing reflections of the mountains in the water. Since it was summer, cars were seen on the roads, but you could tell this was a different place during winter by the sheer volume of snow mobiles parked on the grass.

We had a brief walk around Longyearbyen on arrival (longer on our return). I wasn't expecting it to be 12°C! (By the way, we were 3,043km from London). There isn’t much to the old mining town; a museum, art gallery and a few shops and cafés, pretty much all along one main street. On the return leg we enjoyed a lovely walk along the shoreline, spotting lots of birds and enjoying some amazing reflections of the mountains in the water. Since it was summer, cars were seen on the roads, but you could tell this was a different place during winter by the sheer volume of snow mobiles parked on the grass.

To board the Vavilov we had to travel out in groups of 10 on the inflatable zodiacs, which would later be used for our daytime excursions whilst at sea. This heightened our excitement for the trip. In reality, for a good couple of days, everything felt really surreal. I couldn’t believe I was actually there after a year and a half of waiting! We were to spend 10 full days at sea and this ship was fabulous. We had a great cabin on Deck 4 right in the centre of the boat, which meant everything was quick and easy to access, as we were nearest the stairs. We could walk along the corridor and be straight out on the bow of the ship, which was fabulous for our wildlife sightings, it was down to Deck 3 for the dining room, mud room - in preparation for our zodiac trips - and the stearn of the ship. It was up to Deck 6 for the bar/lounge, bridge and upper outdoor viewing decks, where I spent the majority of my time. Our cabin was cosy with 2 beds, a desk, plenty of storage space and a private toilet and shower wet room. They provided dressing gowns, towels, shampoo and conditioner etc, tissues, tea/coffee and kettle, binoculars and a wildlife reference book along with gumboots, waterproof bag and wet weather gear!

The weather was much milder than I’d expected (all part of the climate change problem however) and not very windy, which was good news for me as the seas weren’t too rough. We had a full day at sea on the first Monday and I did suffer a little from seasickness, but managed to sleep it off for a few hours in the afternoon. Towards the end of the trip it got rough again but I still was able to survive without taking any of the medication I’d brought with me! The worst place was going up or down the stairs in the centre of the boat, without any windows! One evening when we were in the bar, the lilt and sway of the boat meant I couldn’t walk in a straight line from the bar to the table, making it look as though I was very drunk! An added challenge when trying to carefully carry two drinks back without spilling them! (As an aside, when we landed back in Longyearbyen after the trip, I did feel like I was still at sea and had quite a few moments when I felt wobbly on my feet! A very strange experience!)

The weather was milder than I’d expected and not too windy, which meant the seas weren’t too rough. On the first full day at sea I suffered a little from seasickness, but managed to sleep it off in the afternoon. Only towards the end of the trip did it get rough again, but I survived without taking any medication! One evening, when we were in the bar, the lilt and sway of the boat meant I couldn’t walk in a straight line from the bar to my table - I must've looked drunk, especially trying to carry two drinks! Weirdly, when we were back on terra firma, I felt like I was still at sea and had quite a few moments when I felt wobbly on my feet! A very strange experience!

Food was plentiful, regular and pretty good so we were never going to go hungry! We always had 3 choices of main course at dinner and lots of varied desserts. We even had tea late in the afternoon. My friend and I made a point of sitting at a different table at each mealtime, talking to different people, which was great. Virtually everyone was friendly and mingled and it was nice to meet likeminded travellers. In fact, meal times were sometimes how we knew what time of day it was because the sun was always up! I have to say I really enjoyed this aspect. In the evening when we would come back to our room after dinner there was always a chocolate on our pillow, the curtains had been drawn and the low lights over our beds were on instead of the main light and this was how they tried to prepare you for sleep!

We managed to get a reasonable amount of sleep most nights but we did have early morning wake up calls sometimes 5.30 or 6am for some of the zodiac excursions to make the most of the day. We were also woken up if there were interesting wildlife sightings and this did happen! We'd headed up along the west coast of Spitsbergen and beyond the islands to reach the pack ice, which had retreated to 81°N that year (because it was a very mild winter, the Arctic sea ice wintertime extent reached a record low, the second year in a row). We had travelled further north than I was expecting and we were just over 100miles away from the North Pole! One of my main concerns about the trip was whether or not we'd actually see a polar bear! With wildlife, there are no guarantees! But, within one hour of reaching the pack ice, at 5.15 in the morning we were woken a little earlier than planned - the first polar bear had been spotted!

We managed to get a reasonable amount of sleep most nights but we did have early morning wake up calls sometimes 5.30 or 6am for some of the zodiac excursions to make the most of the day. We were also woken up if there were interesting wildlife sightings and this did happen! We'd headed up along the west coast of Spitsbergen and beyond the islands to reach the pack ice, which had retreated to 81°N that year (because it was a very mild winter, the Arctic sea ice wintertime extent reached a record low, the second year in a row). We had travelled further north than I was expecting and we were just over 100miles away from the North Pole! One of my main concerns about the trip was whether or not we'd actually see a polar bear! There are no guarantees with wildlife! But, within one hour of reaching the pack ice, at 5.15 in the morning we were woken a little earlier than planned - the first polar bear had been spotted!

I ought to mention how fabulous the One Ocean Expedition staff were. They were on constant vigil looking out for the wildlife, taking shifts and swapping over, so even through the night (remember it’s still light) they were glued to their binoculars and telescopes. They were all so knowledgeable in their field and we had several talks during the course of our trip. They would sit with us during the meals and get to know us and vice versa and they were so friendly and helpful. A truly brilliant staff, so much so I’d travel on this ship with this company again.

Back to the bears…yes we saw lots of them…I think we saw about 10, but to be honest we kind of lost count! How crazy is that. Each encounter was different and sometimes better than the one before. You never forget your first sighting and it was special. This cream coloured bear was sleeping on a small ice floe in the distance. As we neared him he could smell us and he popped his head up, then stood up. I don’t know how many minutes or hours we were watching him, we were all mesmerized. He had a little walk, took another nap, jumped over a few ice floes and eventually swam away. We got to see bears feeding (not hunting) covering their food in ice (something rarely witnessed) rolling around in the ice trying to cool down, grooming (they’re very clean animals) yawning, sticking out it’s tongue (it uses it for smell), and swimming, then shaking off the water afterwards. We even got to see polar bears at the same time, when a younger female had smelt a seal from miles away.

We got to see bears feeding (not hunting) covering their food in ice (something rarely witnessed) rolling around in the ice trying to cool down, grooming (they’re very clean animals) yawning, sticking out it’s tongue (it uses it for smell), and swimming, then shaking off the water afterwards. We even got to see polar bears at the same time, when a younger female had smelt a seal from miles away. Their story played out over several hours.

Polar bears will scavenge dead carcasses. The young female was definitely hungry, but the big male wasn't finished. We witness the female’s submissive behaviour, trying to approach, then backing away, lying down low. She must have been desperately hungry because she didn’t wait until the male had finished to try and approach again, jumping from floe to floe until they were eventually on the same one. But, there is a hierarchy (it wouldn’t have turned out so well for her if she had challenged him) and she had to wait until the male had finally finished eating all the blubber it could get before slipping into the water allowing the female to rush over and eat whatever left overs she could.

We witnessed the female’s submissive behaviour (there is a hierarchy), trying to approach the larger male, then backing away, lying down low. She must've been desperately hungry because she didn’t wait until he'd finished before approaching again, jumping from floe to floe until they were eventually on the same one. But, she didn't challenge him, she simply waited until the male had finished eating all the blubber and he'd slipped into the sea, allowing the female to rush over and eat whatever left overs she could scavenge.

Some of the bears were very inquisitive and came towards the ship to sniff us out (they don’t have good eye sight) and the very last one we saw walked to within 2m of the ship, along the side of the hull and then around the bow. With all 93 of us, plus staff and crew, scrambling to get a good look at this young female, we were in awe of how close we were to her (about 5m). I never thought I would have a photo where the bear filled the frame. This was the most wonderful lasting memory I have of the polar bears and this trip.

The captain and his crew were amazing at manoeuvring the ship in the pack ice. The Vavilov is extremely well stabilized (great for rough waters) and very quiet, so in stealth like movements we inched forward, so as not to scare the polar bears. Of course, with the unpredictability of the wildlife sightings this meant mealtimes were often moved around, which you could imagine was a real pain for the kitchen staff, but they did a fabulous job. One time lunch was about 3pm I seem to recall. Another time we ate our main course at dinner, then headed out to see an approaching polar bear, and later we had time to go back for dessert. Admittedly, many either forgot or couldn’t tear themselves away from the bear! On the evening of the two bears that came close to each other, we ended up having our dinner as a bbq outside on the deck!

The captain and his crew were amazing at manoeuvring the ship in the pack ice. The Vavilov is extremely well stabilized (great for rough waters) and very quiet, so in stealth like movements we inched forward, so as not to scare the polar bears, like when we approached our first polar bear. Of course, with the unpredictability of the wildlife sightings, sometimes mealtimes had to be moved around, which you could imagine was a real pain for the kitchen staff, but they did a fabulous job.

One time lunch was about 3pm I seem to recall. Another time we ate our main course at dinner, then headed out to see an approaching polar bear, and later we had time to go back for dessert. Admittedly, many either forgot or couldn’t tear themselves away from the bear! On the evening of the two bears that came close to each other, we ended up having our dinner as a bbq outside on the deck!

Although polar bears were the main focus for our voyage (we spent 4 days in total up at the pack ice looking for them) we also saw lots of other wildlife. There were countless bird sightings (Little Auks, Arctic Terns, Fulmars, Guillemots, Ivory Gulls, Glaucous Gulls and Puffins) though the massive seabird colony at Alkefjellet was particularly impressive with towering cliffs that loomed over the water. The sight, sound and smell of millions of seabirds was unforgettable. I was ecstatic to see my first ever Atlantic Puffin out at sea, early one morning, especially as it was flying above a Bowhead Whale just at the point when water expelled through its blow hole. Even the fact we saw two of these whales was amazing because they're rare - only 10 had been spotted in those waters due to over hunting - and even the staff were thrilled. Whilst we were enjoying that, a Blue Whale was spotted further away in another direction. I didn't know where to look! Aside from these two species, we also saw Minke and Beluga whales, plus several seals lying on ice floes (though none were especially close) and, on one of our landings, there were reindeer grazing. Other people saw a female Arctic Fox and her three cubs on that excursion, which sadly I didn't see, but there was another adult seen high up on the cliffs at the seabird colony, which was unexpected.

I was ecstatic to see my first ever Atlantic Puffin out at sea, early one morning, especially as it was flying above a Bowhead Whale just at the point when water expelled through its blow hole. Even seeing the whales was amazing because they're rare in these parts due to over hunting. Even the staff were thrilled! It didn't end there! Whilst we were watching the Bowhead Whales swim alongside us in tandem, periodically resurphacing and leaving a trail of 'footprints' in the water (still circles of water), a Blue Whale was spotted further away in another direction. I didn't know where to look!

Aside from these two species, we also saw Minke and Beluga whales, plus several seals lying on ice floes (though none were especially close) and, on one of our landings, there were reindeer grazing. Other people saw a female Arctic Fox and her three cubs on that excursion, which sadly I didn't see, but there was another adult seen high up on the cliffs at the seabird colony, which was unexpected.

But the trip wasn’t all about the wildlife. The landscape was also dramatic and beautiful and this was part of the reason why we wanted to come to Norway to view the polar bears. The islands were very mountainous and we saw so many glaciers (I’ve never seen so many – sadly all of course retreating due to global warming). There were lots of icebergs floating in the water near the glaciers. We didn’t witness any calving but saw a few ‘bits’ dropping off and splashing into the water. We managed to do some landings on the islands, which was a great opportunity to properly stretch our legs. Some of the rocks were covered in lichen, showing the first signs of life where the ice had retreated. It was also amazing to see tiny flowers growing on the barren looking land. In it’s own way the pack ice and the melting ice floes were equally as beautiful. Along the horizon was the expanse of the pack ice, which extends to the North Pole and beyond to the Canadian Arctic and Russia. Closer to us were broken fragments of the ice floating slowly away. There was a calmness here that was amazingly peaceful. We were so far away from civilisation, living in what felt like a little bubble, not caring about what else was going on in the world. Though the bubble would burst soon enough, enjoying the long days, watching the wildlife and the ice pass us by, was a joy and an amazing privilege to experience.

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