Swallowtails in Norfolk: Part 2
In the first part of this blog post - Swallowtails in Norfolk - I wrote about our first two days spent mostly at Strumpshaw Fen, where I successfully saw my first ever Swallowtail butterfly. Following this, we had two more days exploring the area. I still hoped I'd see more of this beautiful native species at some of the other reserves.
DAY 3
The forecast for this day wasn't great, but at least dry. There wouldn't be much chance of any sunshine until the afternoon, when it would warm up a bit. So, we decided to head to Buxton Heath, on the other side of Norwich. Bob knew it was a good site for the Silver-studded Blue butterfly. It's a species we have in just two locations within Sussex - both of which we've been to. It's a species that thrives on heathland and can be found in good numbers in the right habitat if it's managed well - with grazing or periodic burning in patches.
It turned out the forecast wasn't very accurate. When we arrived, it was already brightening up and our chance of finding roosting butterflies disappeared very quickly. However, it was lovely exploring somewhere new and aside from one other couple and a man working there, we didn't see anyone else for the three hours we were there. We left the car park and headed towards the northern corner of the heath first and in next to no time, Bob spotted one flying. I stopped and looked down and saw there was another right beside me. I used my bins to take a closer look and suddenly noticed there were ants crawling around it. Instantly, I knew this was something special. The butterfly had only just emerged. I quickly took some photos but was having real issues with my camera. I was so disappointed not to get any good photos. The butterfly is out of focus but the ant is sharp!!! Hmmm! Not what I was going for! This close relationship with ants occurs with a few of the blue species of butterfly, such as the Large Blue, Adonis Blue and Chalkhill Blue. It's the first time I've ever seen the ants in attendance of a new emerged butterfly, so I was thrilled at least to have seen it.
Later, I found a sleeping Silver-studded Blue on the Heather - one of the foodplants of the caterpillar. You can tell its sleeping because its antennae are positioned close together.
I was amazed by how many of these lovely small blue butterflies we were seeing. They even outnumbered the Small Tortoiseshells from the day before, and that was saying something. With that many on the wing and certainly quite a few fresh specimens - we figured many had emerged that day - it wasn't surprising that we finally saw a pair mating. You can see how fresh the female is on the left and how worn the male is on the right.
This is not the world's best photo of a butterfly. For one thing, there's a blade of grass obstructing the butterfly's eyes. But the interesting thing about this photo is actually the fact she's egg-laying. You can clearly see what I can only assume is her ovipositor, which she uses for laying her eggs. It's the thin tube like structure that is protruding from her abdomen. I tried to spot the eggs after she'd moved on, but without success - annoyingly, I didn't have my glasses with me. It was amazing to actually see the ovipositor. I've never had such a clear view of one before.
There were so many butterflies flying around, there were times I felt a little overwhelmed, not sure which ones to try and photograph. Either they weren't very fresh, or simply didn't settle, or when they did, there was too much vegetation around them that was distracting or the light wasn't in the right place. However, I did manage to have some luck towards the end when I spotted a lovely fairly fresh looking female that had some blue on her upperwings.
The star of the afternoon though, was this beautiful fresh looking male that posed so nicely on the fern. Gorgeous!
The other highlight was managing to creep closer to a Yellowhammer that was perched on an old branch. It was calling and showing its beautiful colours very nicely.
In the afternoon, I was keen for us to go to another nature reserve where there was another chance for seeing some more Swallowtails. We made our way to Wheatfen, which is on the other side of the River Yare opposite Strumpshaw Fen. There was a helpful warden at the entrance to give us some tips about the reserve and a noticeboard with all the recent sightings. We noticed there hadn't been any Swallowtail sightings for a few days, but then again, there'd been some really foul weather at the end of the previous week and on the weekend, so that wasn't surprising. With low expectations we went for a walk and almost immediately came across this fabulous Norfolk Hawker resting in the sunshine on a thick reed right beside the path. It was amazing to have such a lovely clear view of it.
We had a wonderful few hours walking around the reserve along the various channels of water, alongside the reedbeds, once again hardly seeing another soul. There were plenty of other dragonflies and damselflies seen along the way and butterflies too. There were more male Scarce Chasers, and this time we could see that they had mated already. You can see the smudge marks made by a female when she wrapped her legs around the male's abdomen during mating.
There was a pair of Red-eyed Damselflies mating on the Lily pad that was quite tricky to photograph. We had to be careful not to fall into the water! The red eyes on the otherwise blue-coloured male are so striking.
Plus, there was another pair near them in tandem, and the female (which doesn't have the red eyes) was dipping her abdomen into the water to egg-lay.
Shortly after photographing the Red-eyed Damselflies, Bob spotted a deer - most likely a Chinese Water Deer - crossing the path where we'd just walked. I turned around in time to see it's back-end only. But, a little later, we walked along a path in the direction where it had disappeared to, and we heard the rustling of something large right beside the path. It was evidently spooked by us and moved further away, but only by a few metres. However, we didn't see it again. It remained obscured by the tall reeds.
As it had been dry, we were able to detour and take the Summer Path. I loved it. We were right amongst the reeds at a lower level. We were much closer to the wildlife. We saw quite a few more insects including a Reed Dagger Moth caterpillar and a more hairy one, the Ruby Tiger Moth caterpillar.
A few times along the walk we heard a Cuckoo calling in the distance, but soon after rejoining the main path we heard it much nearer. It was then that we spotted it perched high up on top of a dead tree. I've not seen them many times, so it was lovely having the opportunity to appreciate it looking through the bins.
We then headed off in another direction and spotted another mammal, but this time something far more interesting than a deer - an otter! However, once again, I only saw the back-end of it as it slinked away into the reeds. It was a shame not to have a better view of it, but it was lovely to see all the same. We had hoped to sit down quiety on one of the benches, which we'd been told can be a good for seeing otters, but once again, a male Swan guarding his young prevented us from reaching the spot.
When we thought we wouldn't see any more, in the final 30 minutes we were treated to sightings of about four different mating pairs of Scarce Chasers. The end of the day was obviously the time for activity. We weren't able to photograph the first few pairs we saw, as they flew too far away from us. But, luckily the last two pairs landed in a better position and I was pleased to have some nice photos. You can see how the female wraps her legs around the male and how he attaches his abdomen to the back of her head using special claspers, whilst they're mating. To complete the mating 'wheel' the female positions her abdomen forward under the male to meet the male's secondary genitalia. What a way to end the day! For them, and for us!
DAY 4
Throughout our stay in Freethorpe we'd enjoyed our breakfasts out on the balcony that overlooked the garden at our accommodation, and sometimes in the evening too, watching the Swifts and House Martins fly over. Plus, we had a very active diligent pair of Great Tit adults that were coming and going frequently from a nest they'd built under the eaves of our roof. There was a tree positioned right beside the building, which was great for them, as they could remain largely hidden from prey and draw as little attention as possible to their nest. We really hoped we'd see their offspring fledgling, but unfortunately it didn't occur before we left. It reminded me of our time up on the Isle of Mull last year at about the same time of year, as we did have luck that time and saw the fledgling Great Tits then.
It was our final day in Norfolk and we decided to spend it at Hickling Broad Nature Reserve, another potential site for seeing Swallowtails. It was due to be a lovely warm sunny day. We arrived early before the visitor centre opened, but we still had access to the reserve. We planned a short walk around the reedbeds first. I was just trying to get through the gate when Bob said there was a Swallowtail the other side. Two men with watching it. More eager to get through the gate, but still struggling to open it, I was getting frustrated. It took me a few frantic seconds to realise I had to push the lever away from me rather than across, which I was more used to. However, there was no need for me to rush as the butterfly was happily nectaring on some Bramble and sticking around for a while.
It then flew over the tops of the trees around us and went into the open garden area beside the visitor centre. By this time we'd been joined by a few other enthusiasts. We were all hoping the butterfly would nectar a bit lower, but mostly it stayed higher. Plus, when it was constantly moving, we had the same problem photographing them as we'd had at Strumpshaw, so I didn't keep many photos. But we were encouraged by the good beginning and the fact one of the other people told us two other spots good for seeing them, which was kind of her.
We headed off to the boardwalk in search of some more to photograph and along the way we spotted this lovely juvenile Reed Bunting. At this stage it more closely resembles the female. The juvenile is smaller than an adult and it has a shorter tail. You can also see the creamy little line that extends from the base of the beak that's very much apparent when they open wide for their parents to feed them.
We spotted two more Swallowtails near the hide. It was lovely watching them nectar and move about. One was definitely in better shape than the other. They were on the move quite a bit and often times on the far side of the Brambles. But one time, the slightly tattier of the two flew high up above our heads to nectar and I was able to get quite a nice underwing shot.
From inside the hide, I spotted this female Four-spotted Chaser. It was only when I went back outside that I was able to capture the second image.
Eventually, we continued around the boardwalk, enjoying the many dragonflies that were on the wing, and came back full circle to the visitor centre. We didn't stay there long because there was a mass of people loitering around and chatting noisily - a large group had just arrived. Swiftly, we diverted through the woodlands to another area of Bramble that was good for Swallowtails and saw a few more. But it wasn't long before the noise followed us as they were being led around the nature reserve. So, in the end, we decided to go back in the opposite direction to get as far away from them as possible. Only once, a bit later, did we pass them again, so it didn't ruin our morning too much, and we did discover they were only there for the morning at least, so we could enjoy the rest of the day in peace and quiet. You can't hear things when people are talking and if you're not quiet you often scare things off, which is why we like it when we're on our own.
At lunchtime, we found a bench to sit on overlooking the broad. It was lovely - peaceful and relaxing. A Black-tailed Skimmer periodically perched near us, Norfolk Hawkers were flying around over the reeds and we even saw a Swallowtail fly overhead and land on one of the reeds. Then all of a sudden, Bob spotted a Bittern flying across the water. His camera wasn't handy, but I was able to grab a few shots. However, since it was heading to the reedbeds too far away, it's not a great photo. Nonetheless, I was thrilled we had another Bittern sighting. Hopefully, we'd get lucky at RSPB Minsmere too, on our way home.
Before we moved on, we heard the call of some Chiffchaffs above us. There was a juvenile being fed by its parent. In fact, we saw another younger fluffier looking fledgling Chiffchaff a little further along the path too.
Like the day before, we ended up detouring off the main path and taking another reedbed path that you can walk along in the summer months when it's dry. No one else was walking along it and mostly we were silent, observing everything that was around us and listening to the sound of the birds calling. We saw some Long-tailed Tits and some Great Tits also feeding some fledglings. We were lucky enough to see another Swallowtail fly across the reeds and a smile spread across my face. This was what I'd imagined, being able to walk around the nature reserve and see more than just one of these elegant beauties flapping and gliding through the air. We'd already surpassed the number of Swallowtails we'd seen previously and since they'd been a bit more elusive at the other sites, it was wonderful to have so many different encounters at Hickling Broad.
As an aside, the Swallowtail is the largest of our butterflies with a wingspan of 76-93mm - with the females being larger than the males. This is just a bit larger than the Purple Emperor butterfly (70-92mm), which is our second largest native species.
After rejoining the main path and passing another hide, Bob spotted a Swallowtail on the ground. It flew up as soon as we approached and rested on a tree in a lovely sheltered area. By the afternoon, the wind had started to pick up and was into double figures, but with gusts above 20mph. It stayed loyal to this area for quite some time. It would rest and bask in the sunshine for long periods before flying off again and nectaring. But, it always came back to the same few favourite perches.
Unlike many other species of butterfly, it was virtually impossible to see - let alone photograph - the Swallowtail with its wings closed. This was the closest I came to it. It perched slightly lower down and started to close up its wings a little, but not all the way. I moved further along the path and used my telephoto lens to zoom in on it.
Then suddenly, a second one appeared on the scene and it wasn't long before a tussle broke out between them as they both took to the air. It was a mass of legs and wings as they tumbled and turned, moving quite quickly and disappearing out of sight for a while, and then back into view. It happened more than once. Soon after, they both were seen nectaring, recouping their energy. As the male and females look very similar but the females are much larger, it was hard to tell if they were both males or one of each sex. However, I'm guessing it was too males defending territory, though I could be wrong!
It was amazing to witness and I really enjoyed the 30 minutes we spent watching them. It was difficult to move on, but eventually we did. In fact, the opportunity to sit down in a hide afterwards was very appealing. There wasn't a great deal to see in the small pool of water, but all of a sudden, a male Marsh Harrier rose out of the reedbed nearby. It was fabulous to have a brief view of it as it flew off.
By this point we were starting to tire and wilt and decided the best thing for it was to celebrate our day with a lovely cold ice cream.
After a little down time, we decided to have one last walk, firstly to where we'd seen our first sighting of the day and then through the woods to the Brambles. It would be lovely to have one final last sighting of a Swallowtail. I can't remember where it was on our route that I saw this newly emerged, teneral Blue-tailed Damselfly. But the colour of its wings were remarkable. I think they were still moist and that they were reflecting the blue sky above. The tenerals can't fly until their wings have dried out and hardened. It looks like it's a female and possibly even the rufescens-obsoleta form - they have orange-pink sides to the thorax that become pale brown, plus the S8 segment near the end of the abdomen will become a dull brown when it matures.
As we slowly meandered along the alleyway of Brambles at the end of the woodland, we saw a few more Swallowtails nectaring and flying around. However, with the sun now in a different position than the morning, they were mostly on the other side where we couldn't easily see or photograph them. I was just thinking how we needed them to nectar on our left side, which was still in the sun, but also a bit lower and more accessible. Then, a shortwhile later, that's exactly what happened. There was one really lovely looking one that was working its way all the way along the Brambles. We 'filled our boots' as Bob would say! For about half an hour we enjoy this last spurt of energy before deciding we were ready to call it a day. But, what a way to end the day, having seen a total of at least 12 different Swallowtails.
That evening we went out for dinner to celebrate the success of our trip and me having now seen all the UK species of butterfly (excluding Cryptic Wood White). We went to a small pub situated alongside one of the waterways within the Norfolk Broads. It wasn't especially fancy, but the food was great. After dinner, we sat outside with our drinks, watching the sun go down and all the Hirundines and Swifts were flying around. It was the perfect end to our latest adventure. Although my first sighting hadn't been quite as I'd imagined, as the days past, with each new Swallowtail encounter, things improved and we definitely did save the best for last.
When I think back on all the places around the UK I've visited as part of this quest to see all our butterflies, I'm grateful to have had the opportunity to explore the UK more. It's reminded me how we have such varied habitats, beautiful landscapes and wonderful wildlife. We often think about our bigger, more iconic species when we think of British wildlife, but that excludes the vast majority of animal life in this country. Insects are often overlooked and taken for granted. The small creatures that go unnoticed, that exist under the average person's radar, are vitally important for healthy ecosystems and this world would be drastically different without them.
Like many people, I'm concerned about the future because we are experiencing declining numbers of insects, not just in the UK but on a massive global level (due to loss and fragmentation of habitats, use of pesticides and climate change). This will have a knock-on affect in many ways, even within human agriculture. Insects are essential for pollinating crops, controlling pests and contributing to soil health. Insects are a food source for other creatures such as hedgehogs, voles, moles, badgers and birds. If insect numbers continue to plummet, so too will the other species higher up the food chain.
I hope that by sharing my experience as I've gone in search of our beautiful butterflies, you've enjoyed learning and appreciating more yourself. Hopefully, next time you're outdoors and you happen to see a butterfly flit past you, you'll take a few moments to really watch it. Can you identify it? If not, why not try and find out what it is.
Once we start noticing more, we start appreciating more. So many people are disconnected from nature. It's easy to get caught up in our own lives with tunnel vision and forget we are actually a very tiny part in a much bigger picture - an intricate web of lives that co-exists on this planet. We can't keep squeezing nature out of our thinking and planning. The planet provides us with everything we need and yet we are destroying so much of it. I believe it's important to remember, the earth is our home and we could all do a better job of taking care of it in whatever ways we can.
