Lisa G Saw • April 18, 2025

To Antarctica

ONCE MORE AT SEA


Leaving South Georgia behind us, we ventured further south towards the frozen continent of Antarctica. It took us three days. Since we were the first voyage of the season, we had no idea what lay ahead. Would we see any Adélie Penguins? How much of the ice would have retreated? Would we actually be able to walk on the Antarctic Peninsula, which was where we were ultimately heading? Everything had been so good already, I didn't have high expectations. I was just open to whatever we would experience and enjoying it all.


Over the course of the three days we were at sea, we weren't able to be out on deck that often as the conditions weren't great. I certainly didn't take many photos. On our first day, though, I was pleased to take a few nice ones of a Blue Petrel flying close to the ship.

When it lifted its wings, I could easily see the band of grey around the collar/breast, which is characteristic of this species.

I went to a few of the talks on the first day and in the evening we had an auction to raise money for the South Georgia Heritage Trust. I bid for a few things, but didn't win anything. I wasn't too bothered, I mostly did it to get people going and in the end we raised £2,000, which was great. More importantly for me, it helped me decide which organisation I would make a donation to myself after the trip. Each year I produce Christmas cards and calendars to sell at my classes and, that evening, I decided all the profit from my next set of sales would go to this charity.


On the second day at sea, the wind was up to 35 knotts and the swell was about 5-6m. We thought that was quite bad, but apparently they were experiencing swell of 9m in South Georgia! Once again, luck was on our side, as we managed to avoid the worst of another weather system that was moving in behind us. As a result of the swell, we weren't allowed on deck for very long and when we were it was only at the aft of the ship. The only photos I took that day were of the sea spray! Unbelievably, I did manage to spot a whale some distance from the ship. But, at first I wasn't sure, because the jet of water blowing up from it look a bit like sea spray. But, when I saw a second burst of water in the same direction I knew it was a whale.

The highlight of the second day, 31st October, was how the staff on board the ship made an amazing effort for Halloween, dressing up in various costumes. The kitchen staff really went to town too, not only in decorating the dining area, but in doing special ghoulish looking desserts. They were very creative and as always the food was delicious.


On the third day, it wasn't quite so rough and we were able to be out on deck a bit more. I was able to take some nice photos of Southern Fulmars. In fact, at one point, there had to have been a raft of 100 of them gathered together a short distance from us.

We were also seeing larger numbers of Cape Petrel flying together. Although they were still amongst my favourite of the seabirds we were seeing, they were so plentiful, we didn't notice them or photograph them quite so much by this part of the journey.

As we were nearing land, it was also time to deal with the biosecurity again, and check and clean all our outdoor gear again.


With so many days at sea, for me there was definitely a sense of going to the end of the world. I imagined what it must have been like for those early explorers and adventurers who didn't know what lay ahead of them at all, before the Antarctic was discovered.


In the middle of the afternoon, we finally saw land, cloaked by a low lying mist that created a sense of mystery. There was an eeriness about the place, not least because we had reached Elephant Island in the South Shetlands Islands - part of a group of Antarctic islands 120km north of the peninsula. This was the island where Shackleton and his men had found temporary refuge after their ship the Endurance had been crushed by pack ice and eventually sunk in 1915. Twenty two of his men remained on the island, whilst Shackleton and four of his crew sailed back to South Georgia in an attempt to get help.

The uninhabited Elephant Island is named after the Elephant Seals that live there and also because it is shaped a bit like an elephant. We saw a few of the seals, but it was the Chinstrap Penguins that stole the show. Large snow covered rocks near the dramatic coast were littered with them, like little black ants in the distance.

Gradually, we edged closer. As was now becoming more common, we saw the penguins porpoising in the water away from us. Sometimes, the odd individual would stop and look up at us inquisitively.

We anchored at Point Wild, where Shackleton's crew had been stranded for 128 days before being rescued in August 1916. After checking it was safe, it was determined we would be able to have a short zodiac excursion before dinner and soon enough we were out in the boats. There were always two boats close together in case of any unexpected trouble occurring. This had been a common practice throughout our trip, but now we could really appreciate why, with so much brash ice in the water. There were small icebergs floating around too. The amazing blue colour was one of the things I'd been looking forward to seeing on this trip.

We were able to get a bit closer to the towering rocks within the bay and see more of the penguins. It always amazed me how they were able to climb so high up the peaks when there weren't any obvious gentle slopes for them to ascend.

We sailed around Point Wild so we could have a slightly better view of the Luis Pardo memorial. He was in the Chilean Navy and the man responsible for the rescue of Shackleton's men on the Yelcho. In fact, Point Wild was named after Frank Wild, who was Shackleton's right-hand man and left in charge of those men who stayed behind, whilst Shackleton sought help. He was reportedly the man responsible for keeping the morale up during their long four month wait for rescue.

There were Chinstrap Penguins all around us on the rocks and some were venturing out into the water. The rough sea didn't look exactly inviting and there were predators they had to be careful of...

...such as Leopard Seals. I spotted this one as we were coming back around the point. Sadly, it had already found a victim and was devouring it in front of us. As gruesome as it was, I took photos and actually managed to capture the moment the penguin was flung into the air, after the seal had torn off another piece of meat. There wasn't much left of the poor creature! I decided not to share it here because it really is quite disgusting. It's all part of the cycle of life, I know, but it's quite sad that one animal must perish to feed another.

We then headed back to the boat for our own dinner.


It was a long few days at sea and I was glad to finally have arrived in Antarctica. From Elephant Island we would be continuing south on to King George Island, just that bit closer to the mainland. The main focus of the day would be exploring Penguin Island.





Next post in the series: Antarctica Day 1!


To see a smaller selection of my favourite photos from the holiday, click here.

Dog Falls
By Lisa G Saw November 23, 2025
This autumn Bob and I returned to the Highands, two years after our last trip to the area. With his son Matt and fiancée Emily now living there, it was a great opportunity to see them, enjoy some wildlife watching and spend time out in nature. The weather forecast for our time away was less than ideal, but we were determined to make the most of our visit, even if that meant wearing waterproofs most days! We stayed in two different self-catered accommodation in the Aigas Valley near where Matt and Emily live, on the west side of Loch Ness. It was lovely staying somewhere new and very picturesque, especially during the autumn. The only downside about the holiday was that I managed to hurt my back the day before leaving. It was very frustrating, but I didn't want it to ruin the holiday, so I tried to focus more on enjoying the experience of where we were and not worrying too much about the photography. That being said, I did use my camera on the first morning as a little test. On that first day, and on two subsequent days, we explored Glen Affric. It looked beautiful with the autumn colours (top and below). On every visit, we stopped at Dog Falls, where the picturesque River Affric tumbles and cascades over the rocks. For a stretch, a path runs alongside it, providing us with plenty of opportunities to stop and look out for any Dippers. As luck would have it, I did spot one very early on. It flew across the river to the far side and proceeded to bob up and down, periodically diping its head into the water looking for food. It was wonderful to have some time watching it, and keeping up with it as it worked its way down river. But eventually, it flew off and we lost sight of it. Unfortunately, it was to be our only Dipper sighting the whole time we were in these parts and none of the photos were worth keeping.
Marsh Harrier
By Lisa G Saw July 6, 2025
Bob and I had just experienced a wonderful four days in Norfolk in search of the Swallowtail butterfly , which I'd never seen before, and we decided to head home via RSPB Minsmere in Suffolk. Both of us had only ever been to this reserve once before, many years ago, before we knew each other. That first visit for me was a memorable occasion because it was the first time I saw Eurasian Otters in the wild and my first ever sighting of an Eurasian Bittern. Aside from it being a lovely nature reserve to visit anyway, it was the lure of the bittern that was calling me back. We'd already had two lovely sightings of this shy and elusive waterbird in Norfolk, but I had higher hopes for a better, closer sighting at Minsmere having seen some fabulous photos on social media from a few weeks prior. So, whilst we were sad to be leaving Norfolk, I was eager for the day ahead and what we might see. Things were off to a great start as we followed the woodland trail to one of the hides and saw a small cluster of people on the path ahead looking up. Someone had spotted a Tawny Owl high up in the trees. There was even a scope set up pointing towards it. The gentleman who owned it kindly invited us to have a look. It was fabulous to see the owl nestled close to the tree trunk and with its eyes shut, having a few winks. They sleep a lot in the daytime since they're mostly nocturnal. After looking through the scope, it was a case of trying to locate it it with my bins and see if I could take a photo. I was pleased with the image I was able to capture. More people came along the path and some people were struggling to spot it. Bob and I both ended up helping others try to locate it. It can be very difficult describing to others which line of trees and branches to follow with their eyes!
Swallowtail
By Lisa G Saw June 30, 2025
In the first part of this blog post - Swallowtails in Norfolk - I wrote about our first two days spent mostly at Strumpshaw Fen, where I successfully saw my first ever Swallowtail butterfly. Following this, we had two more days exploring the area. I still hoped I'd see more of this beautiful native species at some of the other reserves. DAY 3 The forecast for this day wasn't great, but at least dry. There wouldn't be much chance of any sunshine until the afternoon, when it would warm up a bit. So, we decided to head to Buxton Heath, on the other side of Norwich. Bob knew it was a good site for the Silver-studded Blue butterfly. It's a species we have in just two locations within Sussex - both of which we've been to. It's a species that thrives on heathland and can be found in good numbers in the right habitat if it's managed well - with grazing or periodic burning in patches. It turned out the forecast wasn't very accurate. When we arrived, it was already brightening up and our chance of finding roosting butterflies disappeared very quickly. However, it was lovely exploring somewhere new and aside from one other couple and a man working there, we didn't see anyone else for the three hours we were there. We left the car park and headed towards the northern corner of the heath first and in next to no time, Bob spotted one flying. I stopped and looked down and saw there was another right beside me. I used my bins to take a closer look and suddenly noticed there were ants crawling around it. Instantly, I knew this was something special. The butterfly had only just emerged. I quickly took some photos but was having real issues with my camera. I was so disappointed not to get any good photos. The butterfly is out of focus but the ant is sharp!!! Hmmm! Not what I was going for! This close relationship with ants occurs with a few of the blue species of butterfly, such as the Large Blue, Adonis Blue and Chalkhill Blue. It's the first time I've ever seen the ants in attendance of a new emerged butterfly, so I was thrilled at least to have seen it.
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